Thanks, Tom. The BaT photo addresses both of my questions. You can see that the bolt for the pegs is very close to the swingarm. In fact, I think they have the bolt head on the outside (probably correct) and I reversed it to create as much clearance as possible.
It is, complete with undisturbed patina. =). It is #2 in the parts diagram.
If you clean off the patina you’ll have more clearance?
Looks good Brody, all my 350 chainguards are like that, just don't use a too long bolt.
I'm glad you mentioned it. I found those on eBay, but they're $1.25 each from 4-into-1. That's not bad.
Wait until you accumulate some other stuff you need so they'll bundle the shipping.
My planning with parts lately has been lacking. I just received an order from 4-into-1 yesterday. I placed another small order including the cable ties and the shipping was $6, so not the end of the world. The harness is near the top of my to-do list for this project.
My fav is when I order a ton. Receive a big box. Full of packages with Honda part numbers on them.
Yes, especially if it is a box full of seals, bolts, and/or screws. Luckily the box I'm working through contains more recognizable items, like coils, mirrors, carb boots, and the like.
Thanks, Tom. The to-do list is getting shorter by the day — hopefully won't be too much longer until first start.
I believe the mounting point is basically at six o'clock, so they would still be tilted, but in the opposite direction.
The next 10mm socket?
BORING.
Haven't you ever seen someone wearing white sneakers with black socks? Apparently, some people think it looks okay. This is the result of a powder coat error on my part — I didn't send the axle caps with the rest of the parts. I can at least make a rattle can improvement, otherwise I'll really pile up the demerits.
I'm not sure, but will look into it further. I never removed the clevis from either arm, but I separated the two arms at the threaded rod. I will get another angle later for further discussion.
so in this case, will it be lighter or darker gray for the shoes...?Like so many things located lower on the bike, most people will never notice a rattle can touch-up there.
And that explains it. You'll want to be sure they both move and actuate simultaneously, of course.
Ah. This is what I mean about the FSM being no substitute for experience. I definitely changed the length of the rod while fiddling around with it and I see what you see now. I appreciate the fact that you looked closely enough to catch this. The wheel needs to come off for two reasons now.
The simpler explanation is above, but maximizing the braking force of a double leading shoe brake means both actuator cams must open the shoes to contact the drum at the same time. Kinda like carb syncing.
You know that's what we do here. And this is yet another validation for the reason we always say pictures, pictures, pictures. For me, it's a daily challenge to help identify some of the little things that might not get noticed yet are very important.
I probably would have needed to buy a vowel, at least right after reading this. The expression "buy a vowel" comes from the game show Wheel of Fortune — not sure if that airs in the Netherlands, but I would guess so.
Thanks for spelling it out.
Still worth acknowledging from time to time.
True but not important anymore, I never ride in the rain now. You mentioned it yourself previously and I agree, I don't enjoy washing bikes any more than you do.
Sometimes you don't recognize American expressions, but in this case it seems you understand a popular one from the New York area.
Mi casa, su casa.
And that's what I love about an international forum with a common interest like our favorite vintage Honda twins.
I knew there was something missing — seems so obvious now that you've pointed it out!! Seriously, though, thanks for checking in.
Exciting. Hopefully it goes smoothly for both of us to the finish line and beyond.
And carbs to connect that throttle to.
That's a motorcycle moniker I can appreciate.
