Look back at my post just above. There is a link in there now that will get to the thread I did about the O-ring. I fat fingered the typing on my tablet and posted before I had the link inserted, so I just now edited. I believe the part number and source is near the beginning.
I was thinking the same thing while looking at all the stuff packed into that bottom end. Nothing to do with the choice of plain bearings, but the whole balancer thing has never appealed to me. Based on the fact that the 360° crankshaft 175s regularly turn 10,000 rpm and when built can turn 12,000 rpm reliably (I know from personal experience), I guess the 360° crank in the SOHC 400/450s wasn't an issue for longevity considering the miles that Frank's 400A and Jim's 400T have on them.
Ah ok. I'll revise the post. Thanks for pointing this out.
I guess not. I'm quite amazed I got as far as I have. Cam chain would have had to been done regardless. Those link-plate/hy-vo chains are really only good for around 20K-40K from what I hear. Opinions vary, and might also be determined on how often you're actually tightening the chain. I also need to do something about the starter clutch and starter gear. This brings me to some new pictures.
Considering older straight 6 and V-8 engines used hy-vo timing chains and they often lasted well over 100,000 miles, I'd say they'd last a long time in a constant oil bath because the car versions ran inside a mostly dry cover getting a little splash now and then.
Jim's been sick the last day or so, he'll have to answer that one since I'm seeing all of this for the first time myself.
Funny your link. This is was the exact set of o-rings from MCM I was going to order!
Yes, pretty bad. I could get about 2 or 3 seconds out of it before you'd hear the starter free wheel. Sometimes you could hear a bit of clunking. Probably accelerated wear from 13 years ago with the bad CDI and the constant cranking and swearing before I got another one. I pretty much stopped using the starter about a year or two ago. I would kick it over about 4 times OFF with gas on and then turn it ON and it would start fine. I found if the bike was warm, because the oil is thinner after it's at operating temperature, then the starter would work. Or mostly work. This coincides with what Mike said in an article about using 10W30 instead of 10W40 if your clutch is junk and you're not opening the case yet.
Is there a small hole in the metal cover on the outside directly behind the stuck cap? If so you can push it through. I've seen many stuck caps on starter clutches over the years, most of the time you just extract them, deburr the opening if it even got damaged at all (caps are softer) and put new caps, springs and rollers in it. Make sure they move freely all the way in and out before assembling.
Forgot about what you said about the cam chain. Mike, and others I've spoken to, think these don't last as long. One of the reasons suggested by Mike is because the chains are 't subjected to contorting around a bunch of guides in awkward positions. He also thinks they are not more durable than the regular chains the replaced in these bikes. He was saying that the reason for the change wasn't durability, but rather to reduce noise.
Oh I would have replaced it too since the engine is completely apart, of course. I read what Mike had to say about them and can't disagree, he has a lot more experience with them than I do. I was just pointing out their durability in the automotive applications and the fact that if these engines really had problems with them, I'd imagine there would be a lot more on the internet about it. I can't ever recall anyone saying theirs broke, and there are plenty of stories about roller cam chains breaking. As far as contorting around a bunch of guides, doesn't seem like much contorting happens in this engine. I could more easily understand it when talking about some of the modern OHC V-6 and V-8 engines where the chain makes a lot more turns and switchbacks.
Though I don't ever expect to be involved in any of this model, I'll be curious to know about the quality of the repop power chamber too.
Same. Jim hasn't tried it and when I asked here nobody else replied so I'd say the answer is nobody really knows for sure. But I see them go in and out of stock, so someone is buying them. I guess put it this way, I have not heard a complaint about it.
As you're aware I've been sick for a few days and working my way thru all the posts. There's so much to unwrap with your's I'm going to do it in pieces.
Hy-Vo timing chain: I think lack of maintenance is the cause of all the issues with these chains. I have heard of the chain breaking before but at higher than 30K. I've heard of a lot more single roller chains breaking like the 350's. Personally I think it's a superior chain drive compared with the single roller and quite possibly to a double roller. There's a phenomenon I've called "chain whip" but actually known as "chordal motion" that's pretty well eliminated with the Hy-Vo chain. Here's an article https://www.cycleworld.com/driving-camshafts-roller-chain-silent-chain-morse-hy-vo-chain/
The first production SOHC 400 engines all need the later pump, A models included. There is no gasket used on the pater pumps. The width of the tricodial rotors was increased for higher volume.
If you're referring to the oil hole on the right where the trans aligns to, yes that one was checked. I really do not want to remove bearings from the trans and completely disassemble that. I believe it is all press fit, yes? If yes, I am not really equipped to do that and don't want to cool the shaft and heat bearings. Trans has been working with no issues for a long time. The large bearings are fine and move smoothly.Everything looks like it's going according to plan. I didn't see where you blew out the case oil passageways for the trans to be sure they're clear.
Did you remove the small trans roller bearings and check the shafts for damage? Did you check the large trans bearings for flat spots by applying pressure while turning them?
WHAT? a new drain plug washer? Don't need that, you just tighten it more and more and more.
Needle bearings are just smaller roller bearings, usually in a cage.
Post Office is 5 minutes away and FedEx is 15+ but if it's a larger box than the "Fits it Ships" box I go there.
But, if there's a part number change related to engine numbers, that verifies a change of some sort whether Honda mentions it or not.
Yeah, but the thing is the book doesn't mention it, not even in the addendums. So it seems to be a sneaky change at some point.
I know, and honestly many of the minor changes were never documented in the FSMs, Honda fixed stuff wen it needed to be fixed instead of waiting for the model year end like so many others. So checking part numbers, when changes are associated with a section of engine numbers, is one way to know. Service bulletins are another if any change was announced, but typically the public can't access that info. And most of our service bulletins are of the older models prior to the SOHC twin series.
