1979 CM400A Winter Rebuild [COMPLETE]

With external mic. I think this sounds way better. Just need to figure out how to reduce the volume a small amount. It's overnormalized. I don't see options for this in the phone settings. Just grabbed an old phone and hooked this up to it by the ignition coil.


No automatic gain or noise reduction. Just a windscreen over the external clip-on mic.
 
Quite the difference in dynamic range, almost sounds too "remote" in some ways. And it seems to go into volume overload at times, sounds as if it cuts in and out. I've thought about using one in the past, just never bothered to buy one and try it.
 
Over-normalization is just a fancy way of saying volume overload. It goes above 0dB and then it clips.

The external mic is a cheapy that I use for video calls. So it won't have a lot of bass. Which is correct since it's more absent in that video.

Whoever is doing very good videos with their GoPros are not giving up the secret sauce. I'm beginning to think it's high quality, wide dynamic range, externally mounted microphones.
 
Maraakate said:
Over-normalization is just a fancy way of saying volume overload.
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Never heard or seen the term, and don't understand why terms that worked are sometimes re-worded. That reminds me of "unhoused" as opposed to homeless, or "food insecurity" for those who are poor and malnourished.
Maraakate said:
The external mic is a cheapy that I use for video calls.
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I did wonder about the microphone.
 
Maraakate said:
It's an audio engineering term.
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Don't know how long it's been used but I was deeply into audio a couple decades or so ago and never heard it used then. But I'm very aware of clipping. Odd that someone hasn't come up with a modern term for that. :rolleyes:
 
Maybe it's more about digital audio instead? I have no idea. All I do know is that I've been recording my own music since ~2003 or so and the term was in use then with all audio editing software that I used.
 
Maraakate said:
Maybe it's more about digital audio instead? I have no idea. All I do know is that I've been recording my own music since ~2003 or so and the term was in use then with all audio editing software that I used.
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Ah, that's probably where it came from, audio software. Stuff that wasn't yet around when I was a lot deeper into audio specs and equipment.
 
Different bike, different mic strategy. This time some foam over the mic hole and then electrical tape over that. Seems to work fairly well. Better than all the other methods. I think this might be as good as it gets (tm) until some other things arrive.


Let me know what you think.
 
Better, but still a bit wind-noisy. I'm using a GoPro housing that has an open back, so the primary sound is not from the front or sides.
 
Yeah, I think this is as good as it gets until the housing and sock shows up. I'm guessing you're using the clear waterproof housing and just didn't attach the back? I do know it's removable.
 
Maraakate said:
Yeah, I think this is as good as it gets until the housing and sock shows up. I'm guessing you're using the clear waterproof housing and just didn't attach the back? I do know it's removable.
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No, actually it's another housing that came with an open back. Maybe they don't sell one like it anymore, I bought it back in probably 2015 or so along with a few other accessories for the camera. I mean, you can still hear wind noise but mostly on high speed blasts. The wind sound at close to 100 is no worse than from some of your local road speed footage, check it out here.
 
ancientdad said:
I've considered it myself. I let mine run one day while Chris and I were riding, stopping for gas, and a break stop when we talked to a couple of other riders on adventure bikes. It died about 20 minutes later during a part of the ride back to the cabin that I would have wanted recorded. Since then I tend to turn it off each stop. Still, when you consider the advancements in the last 20 years, it's amazing you can have a 1080p video camera running on a battery not much bigger than a sugar cube for an hour.
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This hacky method works just fine, btw.

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You all know how it is... once you get a tear in that seat cover it gets larger and larger. It's bad enough that I have decided to finally do the first cosmetic thing to this bike since the rebuild... a new seat cover. Contacted old-school-covers on eBay directly. They are in the UK. I had them for my CB550 seat cover years ago and it was excellent. Still holding up. They do not have any listings and I'm wondering if it's because of the Honda logo issue. In any case, I emailed them directly through eBay and they put up a private listing for me to purchase it. About $70. I know you can get them cheaper in the US, but I was so impressed with the CB550 seat cover I'm willing to use them again.
 
Had to keep you on the edge of your seat for a week with the rain and wanting to rotate between bikes and even the LeBaron. But I have finally captured the moment.

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See you again at 50k and during cosmetic upgrades to this bike.

In regard to the cosmetic upgrades, there is another thread where I tested out a halogen replaceable bulb headlight from DSS for a CB400T UK edition and it works fantastic. Check that thread out if you're curious: https://vintagehondatwins.com/forum...alogen-h4-aftermarket-upgrade-from-dss.13364/
 
I have not ripped this one around as much since May. About 300 miles more. Spending a lot more time on the CB550 this year and test riding other's bikes that I've been working on.

Been staying on top of the chain slack and oiling. I almost always just lube the chain after a ride. Switched back to gear oil as I noticed the chain wax does not last as long. I don't mind some splatter on the rear wheel. Chain adjusters needed turned literally 1/4 rotation to get slack back in spec.

For those of you out there who need parts and want them cheap: join a facebook or reddit group for one of these bikes. Wait until some idiot who thinks they were going to build a "cafe brat bobber" realizes they're in over their head and does a fire sale "MAKE ME AN OFFER I'M SICK OF LOOKING AT IT!". Offer them $100 immediately in a PM and offer to pay all paypal transfer fees. Pay it immediately. Get your parts. Be sure to make it very clear to them to send it FedEx ground. FedEx. Not USPS. Not UPS. FedEx. Why? USPS is not equipped for shipping heavy parts. UPS prices got way higher after the strike.

Got a really nice headlight bucket out of this box of parts (in addition to many other things, including front forks).
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Some tiny scratches on that bucket that can be covered up with touch-up paint, but it's way better than my cracked, repaired, and completely faded bucket. There's also a pair of fork ears that are amazingly not that bent. Drop these bikes one time and they're bent for good. Keep that in mind 100 pointers. The exhaust pipes on these are in way better shape than what I have going on. My front fender also has a crack in it from an idiot backing up at a stop light about 14 years ago. All these parts were definitely worth the $100 shipping to get it.

Other stuff in that box of goodies included practically every piece of hardware on the bike, including the goofy collars for the airbox, the airbox assembly and a really nice low mileage camshaft (had him ship this one separate because I had a feeling he'd shove all this in a box like a goof and he didn't fail to disappoint). There's more, as you can see. A fair amount of this stuff I'm just going to put it in totes and save it for the next bike someone brings to me. You'd be surprised (maybe not?) at how much having a few junked engines and stripped-down parts bikes come in handy for bikes you're working on frequently.

One thing I have noticed a lot lately is a rash of oil filter bolts AND the housing. Even with impacts I've had to dremel/grind on the housing to get that to fall off and use vice grips to get it the rest of the way off. When you're getting used engines or even looking to buy one of these bikes take a close look at that. Had 3 of these almost back-to-back with this issue. Kept forgetting to mention it in the build threads. I've seen it advocated to use the aftermarket bolts that have a larger bolt head. I don't agree with this as I believe it promotes even further over-tightening and instead of gnarling up the head now you have a real possibility of breaking it in the case. Also, I don't trust the check valve in aftermarket ones. I believe, but am not sure, there is a superseded part number with a different bolt head size and you could probably use that. All in all, I prefer the smaller head and just torquing to spec.

The plan for winter is to swap out the fork ears, the headlight bucket, the fender, new front tire (it's expired), swap exhaust pipes, and get another left muffler (and watch it rot out quickly like the rest of them do even though I don't do short trips). Debating on getting new foam and a custom cover done at the local upholstery shop. The curved thing looks cool, but I guess I'm older AND/OR the foam is so worn on both seats that it gets uncomfortable after an hour. Only on this bike. Others I can do it all day long. Debating on just having them making it similar to the CB400T seat. This would change the stance a little to be a bit higher, but I think it will be better overall. Since I have two seat pans I got nothing to lose.

EDIT: If someone wants parts out of these boxes of stuff please PM me and we can work something out. I'm not an ogre looking to get a pay day.
 
Pull "Throttle Cable A" snapped today. Good thing I was about 3 blocks from the house. Nice thing about the automatic is you can just turn up the idle speed and keep moving without fear of stalling out. Just putted it about 15-20mph.

Got it apart. Now is a good time to do the petcock gasket since it's never been done before and I have that spare sitting around. Got that done, but I'll get a small guide up sometime soon.
 
Replaced the throttle cable and all is well. I have pictures but have to sort through them for a guide on redoing the petcock gasket. Will work on that in a week or so as time permits.
 
Packed it probably early November or so. Drained all the gas out of the tank, sprayed some WD40 in it. Drained the carbs. Furnace tape over the exhaust, airbox duct, and also in those small holes for removing the cylinder head bolts. Did not disconnect the battery since it's a gel, I greased the terminals before installation, and I knew it would hold up just fine over winter.

Put fresh gas in it today and fired right up with zero issues.
 
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