This is the VHT paint that was cured in the oven then clear coated with SprayMax 2K satin. The cylinder and head were bead blasted with no coatings on them.
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Twin 160's - since you can never have too many projects
- Thread starter EzPete
- Start date
Brad, your kickstart lever needs that plastic cap to finish off the look!
Never Too Late
Member
Thank you EzPete. I'm just about ready to waive the white flag.
Inching along here. Waiting on a couple of dust caps for the swingarm to get the frame put together. Super annoying that the dust caps are Partzilla ($4ea) the gas tank gasket is Northeast Vintage Cycle ($2)… shipping, $17. I’ve been waiting to see what other odds and ends pop up to try and at least order more than the shipping cost.
Oh well. She’s purdy now.
Oh well. She’s purdy now.
That's a lot of my favorite color, nice.
RobMan
Veteran Member
That is looking pretty. I know what you mean about the shipping and trying to order as much as you can from one vendor to get the most bang for the buck. I wish Northeast Vintage Cycle had a search by model feature that would show all the parts that are available instead of searching one part number at a time and then you have to double check the part number that comes up to make sure it was what you typed in.
I know! His prices are so good and he’ll have the most random hard to find stuff but it’s a true needle in a haystack thing. Crazy thing is even with shipping the gas tank gasket is cheaper than NPN or anyone else.
Oh well, I guess if he spent a lot of money on tech it’d be more expensive.
I’ve never owned a red vehicle of any sort. It stands out!
Progressing well, love the color. You're going to get stopped all the time when you drive that one around town.
At least this one will have a license plate bracket so I won’t have to worry about that kind of stop!
Had a perfect day for some shop time. Briskets on the BBQ, 70’s and breezy, perfect day to have the doors open and get to consolidating random bags and piles into an engine.
“NOS” Japanese gasket kit. A little bit suspect - I swear if I didn’t have bad luck with gasket sets I’d have no luck. Good thing I’m pretty sure I’ve got some copper exhaust gaskets around. These are “patina’d” a little too much.
Got the rings all gapped to .30, so lower middle of spec range. With the overbore and needing a good breakin I’d rather run a little bit loose.
FSM is super sketchy outside of “reverse steps above” when it comes to assembly so I had to learn a couple things the hard way.
Started with shift drum. Learned that if you position it in neutral it works a hell of a lot easier.
Then just work your way toward you. Kickstart shaft and spring is fun.
Got the crankshaft. Which took some work getting all of those pins properly seated View attachment IMG_2039.jpeg
Lost track of taking photos while kind of in the zone.
“NOS” Japanese gasket kit. A little bit suspect - I swear if I didn’t have bad luck with gasket sets I’d have no luck. Good thing I’m pretty sure I’ve got some copper exhaust gaskets around. These are “patina’d” a little too much.
Got the rings all gapped to .30, so lower middle of spec range. With the overbore and needing a good breakin I’d rather run a little bit loose.
FSM is super sketchy outside of “reverse steps above” when it comes to assembly so I had to learn a couple things the hard way.
Started with shift drum. Learned that if you position it in neutral it works a hell of a lot easier.
Then just work your way toward you. Kickstart shaft and spring is fun.
Got the crankshaft. Which took some work getting all of those pins properly seated View attachment IMG_2039.jpeg
Lost track of taking photos while kind of in the zone.
View attachment IMG_0423.jpeg
Creeping along when I get time here and there. Cam chain installed, head torqued down to 15 ft/lb. With the valves all the way loose the whole engine can be spun by hand and spins pretty smoothly.
On to the clutch, oil pump, starter and should be able to get the sides sealed up.
Creeping along when I get time here and there. Cam chain installed, head torqued down to 15 ft/lb. With the valves all the way loose the whole engine can be spun by hand and spins pretty smoothly.
On to the clutch, oil pump, starter and should be able to get the sides sealed up.
Looks like wrapping up the engine is going to take at least one more parts order.
Looks like the old Japanese Flag “OEM” gasket kit was a non-starter. While the gaskets for the cylinders/head/valve cover and cam bearings lined up, none of the side covers or oil pump did.
On the bright side. NEVC had the individual Honda NOS gaskets in stock for $4, so the order there finally exceeds the shipping cost.
Figured I’d go through the remainder of the install anyway just to dry fit and check for any additional items that might need to be replaced.
Cleaned up the clutch basket tines
Clutch plates just looked gunked up from sitting for so long, but cleaning them showed there could be some issues.
Likely going to just replace the friction set with a useable set and send these after cleaning them. Maybe the slight pitting will give a bit better grip.
So. Couple of missing gaskets. One order of the wrong size screws for the clutch cover to replace and I still need to set the valve clearances but that’s about it for the engine.
Looks like the old Japanese Flag “OEM” gasket kit was a non-starter. While the gaskets for the cylinders/head/valve cover and cam bearings lined up, none of the side covers or oil pump did.
On the bright side. NEVC had the individual Honda NOS gaskets in stock for $4, so the order there finally exceeds the shipping cost.
Figured I’d go through the remainder of the install anyway just to dry fit and check for any additional items that might need to be replaced.
Cleaned up the clutch basket tines
Clutch plates just looked gunked up from sitting for so long, but cleaning them showed there could be some issues.
Likely going to just replace the friction set with a useable set and send these after cleaning them. Maybe the slight pitting will give a bit better grip.
So. Couple of missing gaskets. One order of the wrong size screws for the clutch cover to replace and I still need to set the valve clearances but that’s about it for the engine.
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RobMan
Veteran Member
The engine is going to look really good sitting in that bright red frame!
Pete, Did you find that you didn't need the ball bearing in the clutch adjuster pocket on your engine? I have the motor back together and there was no ball bearing in my adjuster. The unit seems to have the correct spacing without the ball bearing. There is a slight amount of play when the adjuster is at the bottom of the travel. Which is about 5 o'clock and just partway up from 5 o'clock to 3 o'clock on the lever it fully engages the clutch rod through the main shaft.
Based on just tightening the clutch basket down, no bearing needed. Once I get the new friction discs and gaskets I’ll see. I’ve got one if it needs it but it really appears that there’s an early/late version. It’s clearly in the parts fiche
Figured I’d need wheels at some point so I got started on the rear. While crusty and gross, the chrome is in surprisingly good shape, spokes aren’t corroded and the highly unscientific “spin it on the axle and feel it” check shows it’s pretty dang true.
Judging by the sprocket wear pattern I had a feeling what I’d find next.
Fairly certain they’re not supposed to just fall apart. Ugh - the old ones appear to be absolutely seized in there. Anyone have any cheater tips for removing these old drive bushings?
Judging by the sprocket wear pattern I had a feeling what I’d find next.
Fairly certain they’re not supposed to just fall apart. Ugh - the old ones appear to be absolutely seized in there. Anyone have any cheater tips for removing these old drive bushings?
Cut out the inner rubber with a hole saw and then carefully collapse the metal innner bushing. I made the mistake years go of leveraging near the outer unsupported edge of the hub. It broke a section away. So keep any leverage on the inside the hub section. I may have also used a Dremel bit to cut through the thin metal inner cap of the bushing to make it easier to collapse.
If you can't get to the back side and then just press them out - I just burn out bushings with a propane torch. (outside) That'll leave you the outer ring to deal with, then drive a pin drift or a small nail in between the carrier and the outer bushing ring to help collapse it.
While I wait for a couple of random parts orders to show up, I figured I’d knock out adapting the wiring harness to work with the Sparck R/R, and clean up/inspect connections.
Started by pulling the yellow and pink wires from the back of the ignition switch block. I’ll be tying them together straight out of the stator.
View attachment IMG_2078.jpeg
The pink is a straight run. Just toss that aside. The yellow run has a “Y” splice already positioned right at where the stator wiring splits down from the main harness.
Bring both yellows down so you have yellow/yellow/brown. That’ll connect to yellow/pink/brown (respectively) coming out of the stator.
I’m using a 3 terminal block from my random stack of Vintage Connections components to replace the bullet connectors.
So that handles the AC going out to the R/R. Now to tie in the other end.
View attachment IMG_2075.jpeg
Take the three wires from the stock selenium rectifier, connected in this order.
Old. New
Yellow. Yellow
Brown. Pink
Sheathed. Red
Empty. Green - leave enough tail to ground to battery later.
Took the black 12v switched from the solenoid and put a 2-1 bullet on that. Now the solenoid and R/R can plug right in there without stretching wires or running new splices. All set for modern electronics now.
Incredibly simple harness on this one. Particularly with no turn signals. Ill
Also be adding a single ground up front to run from the coil bracket to the clamp for the bars.
Next up. Sourcing an LED headlight or converting the sealed beam to a swappable LED - once I locate some silver electrical tape to wrap the harness back up.
Started by pulling the yellow and pink wires from the back of the ignition switch block. I’ll be tying them together straight out of the stator.
View attachment IMG_2078.jpeg
The pink is a straight run. Just toss that aside. The yellow run has a “Y” splice already positioned right at where the stator wiring splits down from the main harness.
Bring both yellows down so you have yellow/yellow/brown. That’ll connect to yellow/pink/brown (respectively) coming out of the stator.
I’m using a 3 terminal block from my random stack of Vintage Connections components to replace the bullet connectors.
So that handles the AC going out to the R/R. Now to tie in the other end.
View attachment IMG_2075.jpeg
Take the three wires from the stock selenium rectifier, connected in this order.
Old. New
Yellow. Yellow
Brown. Pink
Sheathed. Red
Empty. Green - leave enough tail to ground to battery later.
Took the black 12v switched from the solenoid and put a 2-1 bullet on that. Now the solenoid and R/R can plug right in there without stretching wires or running new splices. All set for modern electronics now.
Incredibly simple harness on this one. Particularly with no turn signals. Ill
Also be adding a single ground up front to run from the coil bracket to the clamp for the bars.
Next up. Sourcing an LED headlight or converting the sealed beam to a swappable LED - once I locate some silver electrical tape to wrap the harness back up.
Spokes
Veteran Member
Before to committing to sticky wiring tape, I recommend this British Wiring Tape. It's not tape per se but wrapping that looks really close to original Honda wrap. Two pics. One is the remainder of my roll on my bench, and another as it looks on my wiring harness on my 62. With this tape you only need to sticky tape the ends and with a wisp of heat shrinks a bit. It's removable and can be used again and again. The 62 wiring harness pic shows a separate wiring harness for my turn signals.
Harness Tape, 3/4'' Wide - Grey
BritshWiring is your complete source for wiring harnesses, components and accessories for your classic car restoration project.
www.britishwiring.com
Attachments
I’ve got some stuff real similar to that on the way. It does have a bit of adhesion, but really only to itself after you heat it. I’ve used it in black a lot and never knew thy had a grey color. Between that and some Grey shrink tubing Bezos is dropping off to skin the rear brake cable and replace the really hard stuff that was in the headlight bucket I should be able to get away with the illusion of stock. I did save the harness tag to rewrqp in there.Before to committing to sticky wiring tape, I recommend this British Wiring Tape. It's not tape per se but wrapping that looks really close to original Honda wrap. Two pics. One is the remainder of my roll on my bench, and another as it looks on my wiring harness on my 62. With this tape you only need to sticky tape the ends and with a wisp of heat shrinks a bit. It's removable and can be used again and again. The 62 wiring harness pic shows a separate wiring harness for my turn signals.
Harness Tape, 3/4'' Wide - Grey
BritshWiring is your complete source for wiring harnesses, components and accessories for your classic car restoration project.www.britishwiring.com
nabs
Veteran Member
I made my first wiring harness (for a CT90) earlier in the year and also used non-adhesive grey tape, but I just tied a knot in the ends, rather than sticking them down.
It does seem similar to the original Sumitomo wrap - at least when I unwrapped the original harness there was no evidence of adhesive (although I suppose any glue might just have dried up with age?).
It just dawned on me what you were referring to in this post. There’s a knock pin missing on the parts fiche that’s located right next to that oil passageway that locks the bushing end in place.
Got a little bit of time tonight to sort through the hardware and gasket orders that showed up over the weekend, got the engine all buttoned up.
Outside of a staggering amount of cleaning, relatively straightforward rebuild.
New pistons, pins and rings with a fresh .75 overbore.
All new case/cover screws (discovered here that the stator cover screws have the wrong sizes listed, should be a 40mm)
Cleaned and reused clutch plates
New clutch friction discs
New seals and gaskets
Got the rear wheel bushings and swingarm dust seals as well - and a whole weekend ahead of me - time to start in on the frame.
Engine looks really good, and the JIS screws really make it look nice IMO.
Primarily Hondapartsnow.com, using the automotive part number (actually the same part number for almost all of them) they ship slow, but most of the fasteners can be found for less than $1 - knock pins in particular are way cheaper on the auto side. For the one M6x38 screw I just shortened a 40mm
I figured 60’s bikes kind of have to stick with screws, despite my general dislike for them - the Allen screws just looked weird.
I did swap the screws for the points to Allen, since the slotted 4MM OEM screws strip at a hard glance.
Engine looks great and I agree, these bikes look better with the JIS screws.
I had grandiose plans of assembling the bike this weekend and getting the final list of parts that need to be replaced, etc.
Walked out to the garage to this - apparently the kid had plans for a side quest:
Some guidance, leftover paint, a 60v motor kit and a whole lot of figuring out wiring from the controller ate up a good chunk of a couple of days - but I wouldn’t trade that time for anything.
End product is pretty fun. That electric motor torque with a 3000W motor is something. Stupid thing got me to a tick over 35 before I backed off.
Still need to fabricate a battery tray/mount but zip ties will do for the remainder of winter break.
Ok. Side quest complete; I did have time for the actual purpose of the thread.
Got the rear fender mounted, spent 4 hours looking for the center stand spring that somehow migrated into the “random weird axle bolts and fasteners” bin. Installed the swingarm and passenger footpeg mounts about 3 times before I finally got them in the right order.
I was missing the rubber mounts for the tank front. After searching what replacements are going for, I made my own out of some shock bushings that were sitting around. They’ll work for now.
Time to bring it down off the table before I make it too heavy and get started on the rest of the reassembly.
Walked out to the garage to this - apparently the kid had plans for a side quest:
Some guidance, leftover paint, a 60v motor kit and a whole lot of figuring out wiring from the controller ate up a good chunk of a couple of days - but I wouldn’t trade that time for anything.
End product is pretty fun. That electric motor torque with a 3000W motor is something. Stupid thing got me to a tick over 35 before I backed off.
Still need to fabricate a battery tray/mount but zip ties will do for the remainder of winter break.
Ok. Side quest complete; I did have time for the actual purpose of the thread.
Got the rear fender mounted, spent 4 hours looking for the center stand spring that somehow migrated into the “random weird axle bolts and fasteners” bin. Installed the swingarm and passenger footpeg mounts about 3 times before I finally got them in the right order.
I was missing the rubber mounts for the tank front. After searching what replacements are going for, I made my own out of some shock bushings that were sitting around. They’ll work for now.
Time to bring it down off the table before I make it too heavy and get started on the rest of the reassembly.
Looks like a win on both fronts, cool little electric bike.
Got a bit more work done. Engine in the frame, wheel bearings done, got the bars drilled to run the wires internally.
The frustration of the mismatches in the parts listings versus reality:
Listed as a 70mm. Likely actually a 60 - which would explain the SAE hardware that was in there before.
Had to put the tank on proper to check fit. Plus it’s always nice to see it start looking like a bike - instead of a pile of stuff that needs to be cleaned.
Onto the brakes, tires, and dealing with the headlight bulb missing a mounting tab.
The frustration of the mismatches in the parts listings versus reality:
Listed as a 70mm. Likely actually a 60 - which would explain the SAE hardware that was in there before.
Had to put the tank on proper to check fit. Plus it’s always nice to see it start looking like a bike - instead of a pile of stuff that needs to be cleaned.
Onto the brakes, tires, and dealing with the headlight bulb missing a mounting tab.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Looking good and yes it does feel good to get it pieced together if just for a glimpse of where your going. At least with longer bolts you can run a nut on and then cut them off to the correct length but wait until you are 100% sure there is nothing else that has to mount there on another page of the parts manual. I hate a double damn!
Pete,
Did you change over the stator wiring to a 3 pin plug? Those mounting threaded rods on the tool box need to be longer. If your side covers have a mounting tab that aligns with the lower threaded rod for attachment of the cover lower to the frame
Did you change over the stator wiring to a 3 pin plug? Those mounting threaded rods on the tool box need to be longer. If your side covers have a mounting tab that aligns with the lower threaded rod for attachment of the cover lower to the frame
Oh man. The bike was partially disassembled and/or had wrong hardware all over so I’ve been piecing it together off the parts fiche and photos… the number of things I’ve done out of order.
It’s mainly that upper bolt, but it was also the stator cover, every screw in the controls and some of the M6 engine cover screws that were 32’s or 40’s listed as 18’s or 25’s. Thankfully, the Honda dealership finally quit asking me for a VIN number on a parts purchase for just hardware - I’ve been able to get stuff without $9 shipping on a $0.50 screw.
I just hate cutting off bolts to length because then the plating is gone and the end of the bolt will eventually rust, even dabbing clear coat on it won't stop it fully.
Yeah. The bullets were pretty corroded and one was hanging by thoughts and prayers. Since I knew I’d be reworking the harness a bit to tie the white/yellow together out of the stator into the rec/reg I went to a plug.
It’s more the upper bolt that annoys me. I get the lower one because of the mounting tabs for both the side cover and air cleaner It may have been a Friday afternoon decision by Honda ages ago. It actually needs a 65.
I do have my mini plating rig. Works pretty decent on little hardware like this. Since this one is hidden behind the beside cover I think I’ll probably just mail it in. There’s enough other flaws to distract.
If I get around on version 2 to replacing the front fender and headlight trim ring, and some of the other little trim parts that were pretty dinged up I may go that route and get crazy on the hardware.
RobMan
Veteran Member
I got most of the hardware for my 450 build as well as some odds and ends from Honda Parts Now and really like how you can just plug in a part number regardless of vehicle just to check availability and price. To minimize shipping cost I went page by page in the parts manual and built a parts list that I could plug in to their search bar and keep adding to the cart until the value of the parts outweighed cost of shipping. Of course there were disappointments where something I wanted showed available and after ordering I would get a notice that it was no longer available. I probably have spent as much time researching parts as I have turning a wrench if not more.
Never a truer statement was never made on any of these 60's bikes. The amount of research is commensurate with the decades passed since the bike was built. Pete is right with the mistaken size quotes on hardware hex bolts and JIS screws in the CB160 parts manual. It is quite high for a Honda publication.
I just ordered all new engine side cover screw hardware for my CL160 D along with cap nuts and seal washers for the head from my local Honda shop! I hope I get the correct fasteners !! The guy that always helps me has worked there since he was in high school. He is now 71!! He is a wealth of info and mechanical knowledge. He has just finished a redo on a very early s90 for himself. He told me today that engine gaskets and engine hardware gave him fits!! He confirmed there were lots of changes as models progressed from early s90s to later model s90’s. Certainly can add to confusion.
ericfreeman
Veteran Member
I work on a lot of bikes and have a box full of parts that didn't fit but aren't worth the cost of shipping to return.
lol. That’s the brown cardboard box behind the bike on the table. It’s like a hardware fishing hole.
PugMug
Veteran Member
Yeah I realized recently that the parts catalog has the stator cover screws mixed up with the oil filter cover screws on the opposite side...
Just a reminder that the bottom tabs of the stock air filters mount onto that upper bolt, that's why it's longer.
Yeah. It’ll depend a lot on era/version. Gaskets were another one. In fact, having to cut a custom one for the points cover because both the one from the NOS set and the standalone didn’t fit.
There’s a couple of pieces of cover hardware that are tough to find if they’re
ill have to get both in there at the same time - I checked with one and it seemed long still. Although I have noticed on this bike that a lot of bolt/nut mount sides aren’t very flush like the newer bikes tended to be.
Now I get to fiddle with the dual leading front brake linkage. I had to disassemble the old one to get the rust off.
Did a decent job of procrastination on the brakes today. Got side tracked by making gaskets and realizing that I never set valve clearances or point gap.
Lots of different values for the valve clearances so I went with a semi-loose .05mm, got the point gap to a .30, at a rough static timing. Need to get power through the system to get my test light rig in there and get the base timing set so I can check the advance. The springs are fairly snug so I want to make sure it’ll allow for full advance. Which also means I need to figure out plugs and caps. Yay - more shipping!
Carbs are dry fit. Still need to pop them back off to get the cables on but I wanted to make sure the homemade refurb air filters worked - might need to do a little tab bending. That and the throttle tube cable channel on these 160’s is really narrow none of my aftermarket tubes fit and the stock aluminum one is going to need some TLC before I can get that end of the cable situated.
Choke mechanism is also really still. Seems like the little flapper on the LH carb isn’t sliding real well. Add that to the “this worked fine earlier” stack.
Also needed to get a fix in place for the headlight. One of the mounting tabs had snapped - it ain’t purty, but I’ll do.
And of course the obligatory “mount more stuff you’ll have to takeoff anyway to fool yourself that the project is closer to done than it is” moment.
View attachment IMG_2128.jpeg
Lots of different values for the valve clearances so I went with a semi-loose .05mm, got the point gap to a .30, at a rough static timing. Need to get power through the system to get my test light rig in there and get the base timing set so I can check the advance. The springs are fairly snug so I want to make sure it’ll allow for full advance. Which also means I need to figure out plugs and caps. Yay - more shipping!
Carbs are dry fit. Still need to pop them back off to get the cables on but I wanted to make sure the homemade refurb air filters worked - might need to do a little tab bending. That and the throttle tube cable channel on these 160’s is really narrow none of my aftermarket tubes fit and the stock aluminum one is going to need some TLC before I can get that end of the cable situated.
Choke mechanism is also really still. Seems like the little flapper on the LH carb isn’t sliding real well. Add that to the “this worked fine earlier” stack.
Also needed to get a fix in place for the headlight. One of the mounting tabs had snapped - it ain’t purty, but I’ll do.
And of course the obligatory “mount more stuff you’ll have to takeoff anyway to fool yourself that the project is closer to done than it is” moment.
View attachment IMG_2128.jpeg
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There’s a few parts on these bikes that are just ridiculously expensive to replace - these being one of them.
The little rubber bushings for the tank mount. $24.99 ea plus shipping - if you can find them.
Mine appear to be the fossilized version of such
So. $6 on some rubber bushings/washers
8mm ID 16mm OD x 3
8mm ID 30mm OD x 1
Lubed up a M8 with a big fender washer and stacked them with a layer of epoxy
Gave them 15 minutes to set and slid them off.
The little rubber bushings for the tank mount. $24.99 ea plus shipping - if you can find them.
Mine appear to be the fossilized version of such
So. $6 on some rubber bushings/washers
8mm ID 16mm OD x 3
8mm ID 30mm OD x 1
Lubed up a M8 with a big fender washer and stacked them with a layer of epoxy
Gave them 15 minutes to set and slid them off.
After that things started moving pretty quickly. Just assemble the brakes, mount the footpegs and levers and it’s a completed roller all of a sudden.
Spark Plugs, a battery and some plug caps, sprockets a chain and some tires made this century and it’ll be ready to test fire.
The front brakes don’t feel quite right, I think both levers need to be rotated a tooth or two clockwise. At full pull, they’re getting out past perpendicular I think.
Spark Plugs, a battery and some plug caps, sprockets a chain and some tires made this century and it’ll be ready to test fire.
The front brakes don’t feel quite right, I think both levers need to be rotated a tooth or two clockwise. At full pull, they’re getting out past perpendicular I think.