RobMan
Veteran Member
On the last run did you check the left plug and was it wet or dry?
-
Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.
AD
Twin 160's - since you can never have too many projects
- Thread starter EzPete
- Start date
Wet. It’s getting fuel, spark - just overnight stopped getting combustion. It is quite frankly the most bizarre thing. I’ve ordered a new carb body, perhaps just the bike demanding a sacrifice.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Have you bled on it? Perhaps you just need to bust a knuckle and leave a small amount of flesh and blood to appease a disgruntled deity.
Good point. This build was remarkably free of wounds.
mike in idaho
Veteran Member
Did you try a NEW spark plug,in that hole?
I did indeed. Also ran the old plug on the other side without issue.
I’m going to try clear tube, dedicated fuel IV for each side tonight. I think I’ve successfully ruled out any ignition-related causes so it’s got to be something with the carb.
mike in idaho
Veteran Member
Pull the lead off the plug and hold it about a quarter inch away from touching,while it's running, to see if it will build up enough juice to jump the gap.
Spokes
Veteran Member
Just for kicks & grins, add about a teaspoon of clean motor oil (any type) to the "dead" cylinder. Before replacing the spark plug, cycle the engine a few rotations with the kick start, then replace the spark plug & wire. Hit the starter.
This is where " Gunson Carb Tune" is your friend@! The see through spark plug will let you know what is happening under load.
Gunson Colortune See Through Spark Plug Kit G4171 - 12mm !
G4171 SOLD OUT ! Gunson Colortune See Through Spark Plug Kit. THE Tune-up plug for Petrol or LPG, 2 and 4 stroke engines with single, twin or multiple carburettors or fuel injection systems. If you are unsure about the actual sparkplug thread of your vehicle, this page can be of help...
www.gunsonshop.com
Ran that test last night, then swapped leads from side to side and plugs from side to side (4 separate combos). Spark is solid.
Running off the external IV tank - tonight I'm trying a separate tank for each. I do know both bowls are filling but I also want to see dynamic float level so I'm going to clear tube each side.
At this point, kicking the bike has occurred to me at least once. might as well give it a go.
mike in idaho
Veteran Member
Matching pair of throttle slides,left and right, in the right way around?
Might have to check this out for a future time when they get all the tariff stuff sorted out. Looks like they're not shipping to the US currently.This is where " Gunson Carb Tune" is your friend@! The see through spark plug will let you know what is happening under load.
Gunson Colortune See Through Spark Plug Kit G4171 - 12mm !
G4171 SOLD OUT ! Gunson Colortune See Through Spark Plug Kit. THE Tune-up plug for Petrol or LPG, 2 and 4 stroke engines with single, twin or multiple carburettors or fuel injection systems. If you are unsure about the actual sparkplug thread of your vehicle, this page can be of help...www.gunsonshop.com
Yep - cutaway toward the cleaner, tapered adjustment slot toward the idle adjust screw.
After throwing the kitchen sink at it, I gave up on the left carb, scavenged the carb body from the poor carcass of the orange bike moved the clutch linkage and brass/ float over. Boom (or lots of little controlled ones at least)
It’s a bit poppy but I haven’t even adjusted the air mix screws from the 1 1/4 initial setting - or really even let it get to temp.
For a tiny bike, it does sound pretty good though. Tomorrow, proper air cleaners and a bit of playing around to get a proper mix - the right side feels like it’s running a tad leaner than the left.
It’s a bit poppy but I haven’t even adjusted the air mix screws from the 1 1/4 initial setting - or really even let it get to temp.
For a tiny bike, it does sound pretty good though. Tomorrow, proper air cleaners and a bit of playing around to get a proper mix - the right side feels like it’s running a tad leaner than the left.
Glad you have it sorted at least much better than it was recently. I had a #1 CB1000C carb on a bank of 4 that the low speed circuits were not cleaning properly after numerous tries and many hours spent. I also resorted to a spare carb body I had in stock and it solved the issue.
I spent weeks trying to figure out why one of the 4 carbs on an FZ600 wouldn't run right, wound up buying a used carb body and put the same parts back into it and it worked perfect. Never could figure out what the issue with the original body was.
Sounds like the sync is off just slightly, but otherwise nice. Glad you got it sorted finally, the chasing can drive you nuts.
Yeah. Right side idle is a little high I think. I’ll have some time tonight to play around with it.
Truthfully, I should have scrapped this carb body to begin with. I knew it was suspect from the jump. Just too much pitting and that just traps everything.
Spokes
Veteran Member
Yea, my suggestion of a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder would slightly increase compression and draw. But as per your pic of the carb tells all. These old carbs have to be practically aseptic to work. That's one reason I modified a 160 manifold to fit a modern carb for the 62 CA95 as the last straw if I could not get the original carb to work properly. Oddly enough the original carb works Afterall, and my modified carb sits in waiting, just in case.
Attachments
I was getting really close to pulling the trigger on some Mikuni's - which I may still do for the second one. What threw me off the most was it worked briefly, before giving up altogether. My running theory is there's some of that corrosion that broke loose somewhere in the internal air passages. I may throw this one in the chem-dip bucket for a day or two and see what happens.
Still working on getting these carbs synced and balanced. Probably need to get the filters on to get the right airflow going or give into the temptation to drill out vacuum ports in the intakes to use something other than my ears and exhaust temp.
Seems like timing might be a hair advanced at idle as well. Static timing has it firing right at the F mark but I’m still getting a faint bit of popping on the left carb. These smaller ones are finicky.
Stupid chain adjuster had me worried for a second when all of a sudden a metallic tapping noise started up.
Seems like timing might be a hair advanced at idle as well. Static timing has it firing right at the F mark but I’m still getting a faint bit of popping on the left carb. These smaller ones are finicky.
Stupid chain adjuster had me worried for a second when all of a sudden a metallic tapping noise started up.
Steps forward. Steps back.
Went to test the petcock and forgot to burp the gas can. Bit splashed out - no big deal on the 2K, right?
Welp. Looks like we’re redoing the tank.
Must’ve not mixed the clear very well… lesson learned. It essentially melted immediately.
Went to test the petcock and forgot to burp the gas can. Bit splashed out - no big deal on the 2K, right?
Welp. Looks like we’re redoing the tank.
Must’ve not mixed the clear very well… lesson learned. It essentially melted immediately.
That's too bad. Did you let the clear coat cure for several days?
About 3 months. Had to get paint in before our 5 weeks of winter. Thankfully this one is just pant. I’ll probably run it as is until i get everything sorted. Still have a random oil leak on the right side that seems to be moving around.
Yeah. 2K epoxy. Bad mix.
Wet sanded the clear down - I’ll deal with that respray later… I have a feeling this tank will be pulled a couple of times after some road tests anyway.
Tires should be here sometime this week and then it’ll be the myriad of random little things that crop up on the road tests.
Tires should be here sometime this week and then it’ll be the myriad of random little things that crop up on the road tests.
Well. That was nice. The Schwarzenegger of this set of twins.
Here’s the DeVito
Useable throttle, clutch and rear brake cables an engine, a CMX front end and a few crates of random parts accumulation and ideas that didn’t fit other builds.
Tank is looking a little shady and missing the knee rubbers.
Engine? Well, it’s been a bit of a rocky road it would appear.
So let’s see them carbs.
Oh. That’s either the world’s slowest smuggling strategy or a true anomaly. I’ve seen some old and nasty stuff left to die but never this level.
I’m not sure this one is going to be salvageable - but we’re going to give it a shot. So, everyone in the pool, we’re heading on a journey…
Here’s the DeVito
Useable throttle, clutch and rear brake cables an engine, a CMX front end and a few crates of random parts accumulation and ideas that didn’t fit other builds.
Tank is looking a little shady and missing the knee rubbers.
Engine? Well, it’s been a bit of a rocky road it would appear.
So let’s see them carbs.
Oh. That’s either the world’s slowest smuggling strategy or a true anomaly. I’ve seen some old and nasty stuff left to die but never this level.
I’m not sure this one is going to be salvageable - but we’re going to give it a shot. So, everyone in the pool, we’re heading on a journey…
That has to be the biggest pile of leftovers I've seen from any pair of carbs.
Might *have been shot* with micro-buckshot...
and paper thin in other areas I'm sureYeah. I’m betting the carb body is shot as well, plus missing the little flapper valve on one of the choke plates so these carbs look to be just parts.Might *have been shot* with micro-buckshot...
I was toying with the idea of some kind of brat build just using up random stuff lying around but this kind of lung cancer doesn’t bode well for the remainder of the carcass.
The juice may not be worth the squeeze here.
Sadly, not all twins have the same life span.
Well. If it’s just carbs, heck with it - I’ll guinea pig some Nibbi carbs with pods and see if it’s viable.
Let’s pop the top end off and see what we’re working with.
Cam looks good. Definitely rebuilt recently based on how the gaskets came apart.
Missing hardware, but a newish seal?
Double stack SAE washers (you can see they’re too big for M6, sitting out of round)
Chambers and valves look OK.
Ooof.
Scraped the carbon off. Already .25 over.
And the coup de grâce
So. Undo a terrible rebuild for a weird ultralight brat that’s going to require way more fabrication?
You could waste your time on other things, but they are not healthy for you...
There's living proof that a clip type master link will work just fine, even two of them. I mean, it didn't die of a broken cam chain.
lol. Like riding the other 5 in DFW.You could waste your time on other things, but they are not healthy for you...
There is this thing nearby
https://www.facebook.com/share/1baeAnbVFb/?mibextid=wwXIfr I’ve kind of always wanted an automatic.
I worked with a guy who did some high performance mods to a CB750A back when they were new and current. He put a 4-1 on it, and pulled the torque convertor to file the blades in it to sharper tips IIRC, but he was guessing at what he was doing because he'd never been into any automatic transmission before in his life at the time.
Well here is a brat build from left over parts (cb160 cl160 cl175) by Jon Kosmoski. He does nice work if you have never run across him before. Maybe get some ideas or further motivation.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
The PO on mine bought a replacement set made by OEMSTD, possibly through Wincycle. Almost identical and I finally got them working good.
Try as I might, I think it’s best to pronounce TOD on this one.
Cylinder head is toast - valve seats are gone and the missing cam bearing screw was because there’s a snapped off extractor in a seized screw.
White vinegar alone ate through the tank
Obvious cylinder wall excessive wear/damage necessitating a rebore and new pistons/rings
That’s on top of the general rebuild needs of new spokes/rim for the rear, fabrication for the front end adaptation and rearsets.
Not to mention, seat/bars/guages/brakes/chain/sprockets/carbs/wiring harness/headlight/taillight…
And who even knows what the bottom end looks like.
RIP my friend.
Anyone with one of the 160 builds need anything? I don’t mind tearing down what’s left of the bottom end to see what’s useful.
Cylinder head is toast - valve seats are gone and the missing cam bearing screw was because there’s a snapped off extractor in a seized screw.
White vinegar alone ate through the tank
Obvious cylinder wall excessive wear/damage necessitating a rebore and new pistons/rings
That’s on top of the general rebuild needs of new spokes/rim for the rear, fabrication for the front end adaptation and rearsets.
Not to mention, seat/bars/guages/brakes/chain/sprockets/carbs/wiring harness/headlight/taillight…
And who even knows what the bottom end looks like.
RIP my friend.
Anyone with one of the 160 builds need anything? I don’t mind tearing down what’s left of the bottom end to see what’s useful.
Yeah, sometimes you just gotta call it despite the remote possibilities. No point in making that one a black hole of cash.
Sucks. I hate sending any of these to the scrapyard, but I was iffy on what the final product would be anyway. $4K to get there seemed a bit excessive.
Maybe this is the sign to just ride this spring and summer.
Yeah, you gotta cut the losses at some point when it gets like that. And to put $4k into the 160 is almost as bad as me putting $10k into the 450, it better be a keeper by that point.
Well you do have a small herd to choose from...
Sorry to hear this but sounds too far gone!
Took the 160 out for a quick grocery store run yesterday afternoon that unfortunately turned into a 2 hour tour when the left side decided it was going to randomly chase max rpm. Managed to get that sorted after about an hour of parking lot BS. (Throttle cable on that side had too much slack and popped out of the 2-1 joint pinning the throttle open, forgot to properly adjust when I switched carb bodies).
Unfortunately, this meant a couple miles after dark, a situation that I hate to begin with and even more so with that glorified flashlight for a headlight.
It appears that there’s no readily available LED or halogen upgrade units. I’ve seen a couple of the LED socket adaptations - is that the only real option?
Unfortunately, this meant a couple miles after dark, a situation that I hate to begin with and even more so with that glorified flashlight for a headlight.
It appears that there’s no readily available LED or halogen upgrade units. I’ve seen a couple of the LED socket adaptations - is that the only real option?