Good info that I could use on the Betor forks on the HD SS175, if I ever get to that project.
. Honda does give 125-130cc dry refill spec. Mostly road work for this with my lightweight hinny.There are YouTube videos of 'Rollo the rat catcher' ;I want one of that dog's off-spring.
The maintenance guys at the nursing home would re-use the sticky pads with a snip snip of their wire cutters. Not in front of the residents, of course.
I see.. The words 'maintenance' & other words seems to indicate that it's a good U.V. protectant?
This bottle was given to me by 'Bill the Spook', who was the PO of Mr. Greenjeans, moved to Ukraine before all this.......yeah.
Softens up stuff some for sure but mostly preserves and does clean some too.
I like the protectant because it lasts pretty good, not too shiny.
Does the protectant actually soften the rubber parts you've used it on ?
It does soften just a little bit but if you have something that has gotten real hard, you should do the wintergreen/alcohol
Just as a PSA, that wintergreen alcohol things is a very temporary fix. It works, but it goes back to rock hard in a hurry
If you are still in need of a genuine one let me know. I owe you for the seat stand stick you sent me a while back. You asked me to hold the c-clip for when you needed one. Is now the time?Silly simple NLA parts drive me nuts and cause me to attempt tedious work arounds. I ordered a bag of 45mm internal C clips from amazon for probably less than $10 for 10 of them, stainless too. Unfortunately the original C clips for the centrifugal oil filters on 350's are only .8-.9mm thick (perhaps that's why I've encountered 2 broke ones now). These new clips are 1.5mm thick so I ground them thinner on my upside down belt sander. I held it with my little vice-grips and it did get hot, as you can see here, it's the one that is a bit discolored. Also the OEM broken one and some of the other new too thick ones are pictured atop my precision parts modification machine.
Maybe I can find a better way to thin these up, as I bet I'll need at least a couple more for all the 350's here.
Now to order some 41x2mm Orings from McMaster Carr.
Oh yes, I remember but I'd rather you hung onto it now, you never know when yours may croak and you'll need it. Besides, my custom repops are going fine and I do have some originals in at least a couple of these mounts here.
IOU, if anything for all your generosity.
I'm trying to make that list just a wee bit shorter by scratching off this particular part.
Hmmm, I hadn't really thought about the grommet, but it's still semi-pliable and fit pretty good so I'll just hope on that.I don't want to be in my shop when it's 40°, much less 20°.
Nicely routed and clipped starter cable, as it should be.
If you grease both sides of your left crankcase cover gasket, what will you do to seal the stiff grommet around the alternator wiring?
Thanks for the warning. I will keep an eye on it now for sure.
I agree with PJ, I've never believed that putting some of the same basic petroleum-based content on a gasket that you actually want to seal another petroleum-based substance from leaking out of the engine made sense to me. I get the desire for the gaskets to come free easily, but if you want that you can actually use *GASP* a thin smear of silicone sealer on one side, it does the exact same thing and unless you use half a tube of it you won't have any oil passage issues.
Hey, many people do it and get away with it, and if that works for them then fine. But I wouldn't ever recommend it to anyone myself, it just seems counterproductive and backyard-ish to me as I saw many completely half-ass 'mechanics' do it while I was growing up. And, I learned a lot from my father and he never did it either, so that's why I've always felt strongly about it. Our 'buddies' under the Texas shadetree also do it, imagine that.
If it doesn't leak, I won't crow about it. I wouldn't want to contribute to anyone picking up bad habits.
What, do you think it's Christmas or something? Is there a Santa Claus? The grease on the gasket thing, I'm very tempted to try it after the horror of removing the 40 year old cylinder gasket's becoming one with the metal. I've still got the gasket set for my 400 from Kevin at ScrambleCycle, it's going to come in handy. It was the best set with best price on ebay at the time, didn't know I was buying from a VHT crew member. I see they are just across the border from me off Hwy 8. That's like route 66 but in WI(God's Country). Someday I'm gonna ride my bike on Hwy 8 and stop in.
Yeah, to me, everyday is Christmas.
The rim had some water(bottom)inside it that froze over the Winter.I think this is kind of unusual. The rim wall is swollen to the inside at the tire bead edge. Absolutely no sign of an impact or flat spot. I haven't put the wheel in the stand yet but just rolling it on the floor, it's pretty true.
I think it's actually a factory defect that went undetected.
I will just use the vise to squeeze it back to shape, I doubt it will amount to any real strength compromise. Funny thing is that the tire had been replaced at some point. I guess no one noticed or cared.
Waiting for the goodie box from Scrambler to arrive. I splurged this time and bought new spokes, at least for the rear (he was out of front CL spokes 19").
I'll get some other stuff from 4into1 and front spokes there.
Could be that was it. Usually I can hear rust dust inside as you turn the wheel, from the water that might have entered, but this rim had no loose stuff inside that made any noise. Ice damage is probably more common than defects but who knows.
This photo is my Christmas gift because I am happy to see someone else keeps their shop as “organized” as I tend to keep mine!
Yours is a work in progress, constantly evolving. Mine is just a mess in progress, evolving from one mess to another as needed.This photo is my Christmas gift because I am happy to see someone else keeps their shop as “organized” as I tend to keep mine!
FINE.I don’t have problems with leaks, don’t care who else does or doesn’t do it, and I am not planning to change my ways.
This video shows rims being manufactured by Honda, can't recall how far into it but it's an interesting watch anyway of you haven't yet seen it.
www.vintagehondatwins.com
The bead walls are hollow because steel rims start out as tubing and gets squeezed with rollers into it's cross section shape. They all are butt welded after forming into a circle, as are aluminum alloy rims but they are extruded.
I think it's like one continuous spot weld next to the bead corner all the way around. Often there are a hole or two on cheap rims (like bicycles) to let the expanded air from the heat out, from the manufacturing process, that must get closed up on Honda rims. Maybe this one had a missing inch or so of the running spot weld on the one side and the pressure caused the bulge. This is all suppositional manufacturing archeology. It is fun to speculate and pretend I actually know something.
Good point. I just rub it in the really pitted areas with my finger then wipe it off with paper towels. A better solution would be to brush on that silver sealer stuff some call Hammerite. I'll admit, I've just never taken that next step.
Copy. Thanks
Using your finger? Really? You are so uncouth. Use a toothbrush at least! Geez O' Pete.
That's why I have boxes of nitrile Harbor Freight gloves all over the garage.A toothbrush? No thanks, I use my finger for that too.
