• Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.

    AD

Mousetown, my own 73 CL350

I put the steering in now before mounting the motor because I thought it might be easier, and it was for seating the races and putting in the balls. I had some Ford chassis grease that was pretty thick so I used it to hold the balls in. It's not like steering is subject to high temps or anything like hub bearings.

SnQg155.jpg



Laying the frame over the motor wasn't as bad as I thought. I didn't even bother with padding my rattle can paint job. I just took my time. Just a few small scratches, I might even touch them up...maybe. Good old spud wrench came in handy to line up the holes.
I even remembered to remove paint for the grounding contact!


EbKV8Xq.jpg



Thinking about getting it on a dolly cart to finish getting wheels on it. Maybe a whole roller wouldn't be too heavy to lay over the motor. I might do it that way next time.
 
ballbearian said:
I put the steering in now before mounting the motor because I thought it might be easier, and it was for seating the races and putting in the balls. I had some Ford chassis grease that was pretty thick so I used it to hold the balls in. It's not like steering is subject to high temps or anything like hub bearings.

SnQg155.jpg



Laying the frame over the motor wasn't as bad as I thought. I didn't even bother with padding my rattle can paint job. I just took my time. Just a few small scratches, I might even touch them up...maybe. Good old spud wrench came in handy to line up the holes.
I even remembered to remove paint for the grounding contact!


EbKV8Xq.jpg



Thinking about getting it on a dolly cart to finish getting wheels on it. Maybe a whole roller wouldn't be too heavy to lay over the motor. I might do it that way next time.
Click to expand...
I use some wheel bearing grease(when I have it),the stuff that's really difficult to wipe-off :rolleyes:
 
That's the way to do it, easy peasy and usually no paint/frame scratches, especially if you have a helper sometimes. Not sure about doing it with the swing arm and front forks attached. I would think a helper would be mandatory in that arrangement, unless you're Arnold .......... " I'll be back" :)
 
I just read through the last four pages or so of this thread after having followed the initial work in the beginning. Very interesting, thorough, and well composed. Your aim to check things and make it mechanically sound but not over-do or over-restore fits within the mindset I have with many projects. Looking good so far! I’ll be sure to keep following along with your progress Tom.
 
ballbearian said:
Trying out a new assembly cart. Hope to make moving the herd as easy as possible when switching to different projects.

s14inCl.jpg
Click to expand...


Hey its upright! Is that wooden cart powered by any chance, with AI to move it around the garage to the different work stations? It also looks like you have that yellow ball in the sky shining on it. Haven't seen that for weeks around here.
 
I just straightened the bent left fork ear. It'll pass muster for this rider. A schedule 40 1 3/8" ID PVC pipe and dead blow hammer and a long threaded bar to line up the turn signal stalk boss worked pretty good. The white block of wood kept it from turning to get leverage for bending with the rod.

aoToTvu.jpg



That curved hunk of metal on the floor (an old railroad brake shoe?) with a piece of rubber on it made a good saddle shaped anvil to smack the back side some, helping to straighten the signal stalk boss.
 
Last edited:
You're a creative guy. I enjoy doing that kind of stuff too, looking around my garage to find something that will work for the function I need. If you have enough stuff you can always find something that will work. The ragtag group of tools left me by my father already had many modified tools in it, he did a lot of the same thing.
 
ancientdad said:
You're a creative guy. I enjoy doing that kind of stuff too, looking around my garage to find something that will work for the function I need. If you have enough stuff you can always find something that will work. The ragtag group of tools left me by my father already had many modified tools in it, he did a lot of the same thing.
Click to expand...
Very kind, but is offset by extreme lack of tidiness, shop looks like a bomb crater usually. I rationalize it as inspirational clutter. I'm sure glad for the fellowship of more disciplined expertise from this forum though.
 
ballbearian said:
Very kind, but is offset by extreme lack of tidiness, shop looks like a bomb crater usually. I rationalize it as inspirational clutter. I'm sure glad for the fellowship of more disciplined expertise from this forum though.
Click to expand...
Expertise possibly, but when it comes to garages mine is no more organized. I used to be better about cleaning up and putting away tools after a project but as I've gotten older and have more irons in the fire at any given time, I've gotten lax about cleaning up and being organized. I've decided I won't be a slave to all of that anymore, and it's sometimes handy to have many of the same tools already out when you need them. OTOH, finding them can be harder at times, so many places I might have left them last. :rolleyes:
 
Cycleranger said:
It sucks that those reflectors get seized up and are almost impossible to remove without ruining them.
Click to expand...
One was stuck and had to be pried off, then I could unscrew the T head bolt which I just put some jbweld and squeezed the flared out back to flat with a1/4 drive socket in the vise. As long as the epoxy keeps it from spinning I should be able to put it back on. We'll see.
Seems like these little dinky jobs never end. No wonder it takes me forever to get a bike done.
It's a good thing I'm retired. I work cheap. :ROFLMAO:
 
Cycleranger said:
It sucks that those reflectors get seized up and are almost impossible to remove without ruining them.
Click to expand...
I had to put some jbweld in the fork ear body to fill the rust hole perforations, they weren't too bad and in back, where it's not so noticeable, but the overall chrome was good. It is amazing how much rust and sediment was inside this pair of ears.
Also the jbwelded reflector with it's stud smashed back into it. I know they're cheap but it was easy to fix.

Also the EI came from Charlie Chan's place (Tytronic). It came with nice 2 page instructions and an allen wrench that it doesn't need but looks well made. It may be awhile until I can try it out, there's still a lot to do on this build.

ji2LqrU.jpg


Ok68pvK.jpg
 
ballbearian said:
Also the EI came from Charlie Chan's place (Tytronic). It came with nice 2 page instructions and an allen wrench that it doesn't need but looks well made. It may be awhile until I can try it out, there's still a lot to do on this build.
Click to expand...
I'm probably going to use Tytronic as well.
I put a Pamco on my CJ360 and it works fine but Pete retired so that's not an option any more.
 
Cycleranger said:
I'm probably going to use Tytronic as well.
I put a Pamco on my CJ360 and it works fine but Pete retired so that's not an option any more.
Click to expand...
That's what is on the 'new' 68 CL350 from outobie, I remember him saying they are no longer available. The Tytronic uses the mechanical advancer, I think the Pamco does too.
 
ballbearian said:
That's what is on the 'new' 68 CL350 from outobie, I remember him saying they are no longer available. The Tytronic uses the mechanical advancer, I think the Pamco does too.
Click to expand...
The later Pamco had electronic advance, that is, before someone copied his unit and outsourced to China to make knock-offs which, according to what I read not long ago, is why Pete retired.
 
ballbearian said:
I had to put some jbweld in the fork ear body to fill the rust hole perforations, they weren't too bad and in back, where it's not so noticeable, but the overall chrome was good. It is amazing how much rust and sediment was inside this pair of ears.
Also the jbwelded reflector with it's stud smashed back into it. I know they're cheap but it was easy to fix.

Also the EI came from Charlie Chan's place (Tytronic). It came with nice 2 page instructions and an allen wrench that it doesn't need but looks well made. It may be awhile until I can try it out, there's still a lot to do on this build.

ji2LqrU.jpg


Ok68pvK.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks well made tho the real question is of course how are things under the red caps!? The instructions are hilariously but probably self explanatory… or close to!
 
RockReef said:
Looks well made tho the real question is of course how are things under the red caps!? The instructions are hilariously but probably self explanatory… or close to!
Click to expand...
I'm not curious to look under the caps and I don't know enough about small electronics to know what's what or good. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same under Charlies place caps. Hey, I need all that 'splaning.
 
ancientdad said:
The later Pamco had electronic advance, that is, before someone copied his unit and outsourced to China to make knock-offs which, according to what I read not long ago, is why Pete retired.
Click to expand...
Here is a shot of the Pamco on the Red K0. I can see the advancer under it so maybe it's one of the early or simple ones. I need to get on that bike and will post this and other questions in that build thread, hopefully sometime soon.

beXcLHN.jpg
 
ballbearian said:
I'm not curious to look under the caps and I don't know enough about small electronics to know what's what or good. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same under Charlies place caps. Hey, I need all that 'splaning.
Click to expand...
I didn’t see the built in strobe or timing light or whatever you were referring to. What/where is that?
 
ballbearian said:
Very small green LED above the 'o' in the word Tytronic on each sensor.
Click to expand...
I see it now. So you bought the “upgraded” version which obviates the need for a test lamp for static timing? Do I have that right or is that not all it does.

Either way, I’d still confirm idle and advanced timing with a strobe
 
I just learned something new! This is the second design I've seen that uses two discrete magnets along with a single hall sensor. I was aware of two types of hall sensors, a digital type and a analog type. The digital type turns on/off as a magnet of a certain polarity passes. Analog type gives a varied analog signal based on magnet polarity and strength. It just dawned on me that they must make a digital HALL sensor that latches on/off based on magnetic polarity. So this bipolar/latched digital HALL sensor turns on as +polarity passes, stays on, and only turns off when opposite - polarity passes. A TI DRV5011 is an example of this I found to confirm. Cool Beans. As you see in this design, it uses a IGBT ignitor transistor specifically designed for automotive spark TCI application. Thanks ballbearian, you are the best!
 
RockReef said:
I see it now. So you bought the “upgraded” version which obviates the need for a test lamp for static timing? Do I have that right or is that not all it does.

Either way, I’d still confirm idle and advanced timing with a strobe
Click to expand...
Yes and absolutely yes.
 
kbongos said:
I just learned something new! This is the second design I've seen that uses two discrete magnets along with a single hall sensor. I was aware of two types of hall sensors, a digital type and a analog type. The digital type turns on/off as a magnet of a certain polarity passes. Analog type gives a varied analog signal based on magnet polarity and strength. It just dawned on me that they must make a digital HALL sensor that latches on/off based on magnetic polarity. So this bipolar/latched digital HALL sensor turns on as +polarity passes, stays on, and only turns off when opposite - polarity passes. A TI DRV5011 is an example of this I found to confirm. Cool Beans. As you see in this design, it uses a IGBT ignitor transistor specifically designed for automotive spark TCI application. Thanks ballbearian, you are the best!
Click to expand...
What you described does make sense but I must admit it's easy to be humble since I'm ignorant.

Not to get too sidetracked here (saving for the other K0 bike thread), but the Pamco only has 2 magnets instead of 4 so it must be different.
 
Here is some info from the ebay add that details the functional changes of the Tytronic units. I didn't opt for the latest version with built in advance so mine will retain the mechanical advancer. Mine does have the LED for static setting and some additional circuit protection.
Interesting info on the dual magnet reducing voltage via a shortened cycle time.

qVTTr37.jpg


Apologies for my crude image posting technique. Here is the actual add, if anyone wants a better shot.

www.ebay.com

Electronic ignition 1968-1973 CB350t SL350t CL350t twins points plate | eBay

In upgrade version, timing LED light and current protection circuit are added to make installation more convenient for users. The product starts on sale in January 2018. It is the most ideal e -ignition at present.
www.ebay.com
 
It sound like they have continued to improve the set up and their product to offer a decent EI for a reasonable cost to change from a points system to EI.
 
This bike was last registered in 6/98-99. It sure got an unbelievable amount of rust on these fork tubes. The forks and the starter are the last dirty jobs to do.
8i9bPwr.jpg

7JAf4Y1.jpg


The starter works and sounds good, so I'll just paint the outside.

1fGLdBI.jpg



Not sure what to do with this regulator. If I should leave it in and try the rectifier, or just get a new Sparckx moto combo unit but then should I ditch this regulator? It would be handy to use it's spot for the new unit, under the battery box.

b6Bl7zx.jpg

Oh oh, I think my phone camera has vertigo. The last two pics are upside down. No matter.
 
This is where I decided to put my reg/rec unit on my '69 CB. I assume your box assembly is the same on the CL?

reg.jpg
 
ballbearian said:
The nasty is all above the slide area and will be covered by rubber and chrome. It is pretty bad, must have been the suburbs to Mousetown, but how the h... did they get in there?
Click to expand...

ballbearian said:
I like that even better. Thanks.
Click to expand...

ballbearian said:
I like that even better. Thanks.
Click to expand...
The engineers will get a little sweaty because it is a one point only contact mount but at least I used a heavy duty split washer for bite! I wanted to retain the original integrity of the box without drilling new holes.
 
The top of the forks on my CB750K5 looked like that.
I wire brushed them like you did and them painted them with rust converter.
It's all hidden by the fork ears and doesn't show.
I like that old spud wrench, you don't see those too much any more.
 
ausman1000 said:
The engineers will get a little sweaty because it is a one point only contact mount but at least I used a heavy duty split washer for bite! I wanted to retain the original integrity of the box without drilling new holes.
Click to expand...
They'll be fine, tell them the other tab is needed for the flux capacitor.
 
Cycleranger said:
The top of the forks on my CB750K5 looked like that.
I wire brushed them like you did and them painted them with rust converter.
It's all hidden by the fork ears and doesn't show.
I like that old spud wrench, you don't see those too much any more.
Click to expand...
I'll probably just rub some grease on it and mouse poison.
Handy for motor mount bolt line up. Saw it at Tractor supply and had to have it.
 
ballbearian said:
The nasty is all above the slide area and will be covered by rubber and chrome. It is pretty bad, must have been the suburbs to Mousetown, but how the h... did they get in there?
Click to expand...
You know Honda didn't chrome the upper tubes above the steering stem, right? They knew the tubes would be covered and didn't spend the money chroming them all the way to the top like the later models with more exposed tubes.
 
ancientdad said:
You know Honda didn't chrome the upper tubes above the steering stem, right? They knew the tubes would be covered and didn't spend the money chroming them all the way to the top like the later models with more exposed tubes.
Click to expand...
Ahhh so, and the damp environ did it. It's the same on the '73 chromed fork ears (and probably the painted ones too). I'll admit to rodent prejudice, though.
 
ballbearian said:
Ahhh so, and the damp environ did it. It's the same on the '73 chromed fork ears (and probably the painted ones too). I'll admit to rodent prejudice, though.
Click to expand...
Absolutely rodent prejudice, and deservedly so in your case. But the older models with all the headlight ears fully covering the upper tubes all had unchromed sections between the steering stem claps and the top bridge. And any trapped water intrusion only made things worse. That's why I painted the upper tubes on my 450 with hammer silver, getting my plain steel rear fender chromed was difficult enough.
 
ballbearian said:
Ahhh so, and the damp environ did it. It's the same on the '73 chromed fork ears (and probably the painted ones too). I'll admit to rodent prejudice, though.
Click to expand...
If you look inside the chrome fork ears you'll see a washer affair welded inside, the gap is on top so it collects water and dirt causing the rust thru problem all of them have. I filled mine with RTV to seal that up.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
If you look inside the chrome fork ears you'll see a washer affair welded inside, the gap is on top so it collects water and dirt causing the rust thru problem all of them have. I filled mine with RTV to seal that up.
Click to expand...
Pity, perhaps a well-placed weep hole may have saved many.
 
ballbearian said:
Pity, perhaps a well-placed weep hole may have saved many.
Click to expand...
I like using CB360T forks in place of the CB350 units;they have the advantage of being chromed all the way up.
I sometimes make a small drain hole/passage at the base of the headlight mount and through the rubber cushion at the bottom to allow the water to drain.
 
Last edited:
LongDistanceRider said:
If you look inside the chrome fork ears you'll see a washer affair welded inside, the gap is on top so it collects water and dirt causing the rust thru problem all of them have. I filled mine with RTV to seal that up.
Click to expand...
I have a hard time following that. Got a picture to illustrate?
 
Wow, I have never seen those rot like that before, yet clearly it is a known issue for LDR. Your the king of fixes :) So what's the plan?
 
Those are pretty bad, somewhat worse than mine. 24hrs. in the Bilthamber Deox-C bucket to start. I just used a piece of masking tape on the outside then flowed some JBweld around inside. It's probably an 1/8" thick and does look gray on the ouside but it's kind of mostly on the rear and backside, so not too noticeable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom