Here we go - 1971 CL350 Restore

Cycleranger said:
Well I started to take a wire wheel to the rims today but the batteries for the drill were dead.
So while they charged I scrubbed the wheels. I think this may be as clean as they get, I'm not going to go through the process of stripping the old clear coat and polishing them, at least for now.
I did that on the CJ only because it needed new rims and spokes and it was a pita.

Sorted through all the brass I have for the carbs and separated out all Keihin parts and cleaned them up so I could pick out the best pieces.
A couple of those slow jets were still clogged even after soaking and soda blasting. I had to poke them out with a piece of guitar string.
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I've been told that aircraft stripper is the ticket for old clearcoat. I've yet to try it.
 
ballbearian said:
I've been told that aircraft stripper is the ticket for old clearcoat. I've yet to try it.
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Yes, that is the stuff. I have used it and it works well.
However to do what I would consider a proper job polishing the hubs I'd have to take the wheels apart and I'm not going to do that for now.
The rims I'll hit with a little chrome polish, that's not too much work.
 
So just cleaned up some chrome bits today. The shift lever looks like it got some battery acid damage.
I might replace the steering stem nut. It's kinda crusty.
I like that there's not much chrome on this bike.

I'm having a heck of a time finding a front tire.
I'd like to find something that looks similar to the original tires.
Seems like all the 3.00-19 tires I like are out of stock everywhere. At least tires that won't break the bank.
Does anyone know if a 3.25-19 or an 80/100 would have any issues?
 

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What color was your 71' CL350 originally ?
I stayed in a house with a few people when I was 18 and one guy had an orange 71' CL350 with the same paint scheme.
 
Cycleranger said:
So just cleaned up some chrome bits today. The shift lever looks like it got some battery acid damage.
I might replace the steering stem nut. It's kinda crusty.
I like that there's not much chrome on this bike.

I'm having a heck of a time finding a front tire.
I'd like to find something that looks similar to the original tires.
Seems like all the 3.00-19 tires I like are out of stock everywhere. At least tires that won't break the bank.
Does anyone know if a 3.25-19 or an 80/100 would have any issues?
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I do like my tires to kinda, sorta match. Maybe it's just the looks of it. I haven't really thought about my CL's tires yet, but I'm telling myself that it will be probably a C-note more than I think. That's just the new normal, I'm afraid. Are you going for the original Trials type tread, like Shinko 244 or 241?
 
ballbearian said:
I do like my tires to kinda, sorta match. Maybe it's just the looks of it. I haven't really thought about my CL's tires yet, but I'm telling myself that it will be probably a C-note more than I think. That's just the new normal, I'm afraid. Are you going for the original Trials type tread, like Shinko 244 or 241?
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That was my plan, however I've been rethinking that.
It might look more "period" with a Trials type pattern but it will handle better with a street tire.

LDR, thx, that's helpful.
 
Those Heidenau's are great tires and they look great, but for the cost I would buy them.
Still trying to decide what tires I am going to get.
So tomorrow I pick up the frame from the powdercoaters.
I thought I'd better have a look at the forks.
The springs are a bit rusty but will clean up. The plastic bits are still intact, which is good.
The tubes have a bit of rust, which I expected and should clean up.
My cheapo HF snap ring tool broke, I guess I'll to go spend another $6 on a new one. I got my moneys worth out this one.

I was able to get one screw out of the bottom but the other one just spins. (Phillips head? Really Honda?)
I'm not surprised. Sigh. (I think the surprise was that one of them came out!)
I haven't worked on external-spring forks like these before, I'll have to see if the tricks I used for other forks will work to get that screw out.
 

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Cycleranger said:
Those Heidenau's are great tires and they look great, but for the cost I would buy them.
Still trying to decide what tires I am going to get.
So tomorrow I pick up the frame from the powdercoaters.
I thought I'd better have a look at the forks.
The springs are a bit rusty but will clean up. The plastic bits are still intact, which is good.
The tubes have a bit of rust, which I expected and should clean up.
My cheapo HF snap ring tool broke, I guess I'll to go spend another $6 on a new one. I got my moneys worth out this one.

I was able to get one screw out of the bottom but the other one just spins. (Phillips head? Really Honda?)
I'm not surprised. Sigh. (I think the surprise was that one of them came out!)
I haven't worked on external-spring forks like these before, I'll have to see if the tricks I used for other forks will work to get that screw out.
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Don't take the other one out, when they have phillips (JIS) head screws they aren't part of disassembly and if you do take them apart far enough you might have difficulty getting them tightened up when you reassemble. The ones with allens need to be removed for disassembly. These are the slide-hammer style to get the forks apart and the seal out
 
ancientdad said:
Don't take the other one out, when they have phillips (JIS) head screws they aren't part of disassembly and if you do take them apart far enough you might have difficulty getting them tightened up when you reassemble. The ones with allens need to be removed for disassembly. These are the slide-hammer style to get the forks apart and the seal out
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Ah, ok, thank you for that. The shop manual devotes exactly one sentence to disassembly and the parts diagram is a bit vague. I've only done the forks on my other bikes.
I guess I'll renew my snap ring tool and go at it from the other end.
It also looks like the seal needs to be installed over the tube, i.e. the tube goes in the lower before the seal and snap ring is installed.
Is that correct?
 
Cycleranger said:
Ah, ok, thank you for that. The shop manual devotes exactly one sentence to disassembly and the parts diagram is a bit vague.
I guess I'll renew my snap ring tool and go at it from the other end.
It also looks like the seal needs to be installed over the tube, i.e. the tube goes in the lower before the seal and snap ring is installed.
Is that correct?
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Yes, on those older versions you get it apart by removing the snap ring and slide-hammer the seal out, then slip the seal over the tube and use a piece of PVC to drive it in.
 
So I got some new bushings for the rear hub today, which reminded me, what are we doing these days for replacements for the bushings in the engine brackets? (PN 50356-286-300)
Apparently these are long unavailable. I like to replace all the rubber that I can if possible.
I did some googling and got some hits that suggest using some Chinese scooter bushings but I was wondering if anyone had any first-hand experience.
 

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Funny, I've never given those bushings a thought but it's a good point. The 450 doesn't have any engine mounts with bushings so I haven't had to deal with it. I'm wondering just what else has bushings that size.
 
Cycleranger said:
So I got some new bushings for the rear hub today, which reminded me, what are we doing these days for replacements for the bushings in the engine brackets? (PN 50356-286-300)
Apparently these are long unavailable. I like to replace all the rubber that I can if possible.
I did some googling and got some hits that suggest using some Chinese scooter bushings but I was wondering if anyone had any first-hand experience.
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Actually the left side is available if you like White. 50355-286-000A Looks like they finally sold out of the right side, 50354-286-000A. These were for the Police models.
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_17222/
 
That's surprising reasonable for DSS but I don't need the whole bracket, just the bushings.
It looks like I could find another bushing that would fit but because of the design of the OEM part I imagine I'd have to add a washer to one side.
I don't have to replace these bushings, they're hard but still usable.
I guess most folks don't, otherwise I might find more info on replacing them.
 

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Cycleranger said:
That's surprising reasonable for DSS but I don't need the whole bracket, just the bushings.
It looks like I could find another bushing that would fit but because of the design of the OEM part I imagine I'd have to add a washer to one side.
I don't have to replace these bushings, they're hard but still usable.
I guess most folks don't, otherwise I might find more info on replacing them.
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Most just get a used one. Out west rubber and plastic takes a beating from the dryness and UV, here we got rust.
 
Did you get your frame back yesterday? Have you opened up the top end on your motor yet? I hope you find things in better shape than I did!
 
stl360+450 said:
Did you get your frame back yesterday? Have you opened up the top end on your motor yet? I hope you find things in better shape than I did!
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I did get my frame back. I was too busy today to look at it. Yeah, honestly after seeing your engine I'm not in a hurry to open it up!
I was going to get the frame back on its wheels before I addressed the engine. To that end I did order tires that should be delivered on Monday if Fedex is to be believed.
Whoops, I need to order tubes!
 
Cycleranger said:
I did get my frame back. I was too busy today to look at it. Yeah, honestly after seeing your engine I'm not in a hurry to open it up!
I was going to get the frame back on its wheels before I addressed the engine. To that end I did order tires that should be delivered on Monday if Fedex is to be believed.
Whoops, I need to order tubes!
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Rim strips, too?
 
Logically you are both correct. There is no method to my madness...
I try to have a plan but I'm easily distracted.
And yes, I got rim strips! :)
 
Those forks do come all the way apart! But I see why that shouldn't be necessary. These forks are so simple.
I mentioned previously I got the frame powder coated. I chose a medium gloss black.
One thing I found interesting is what looks like a date code on the swing arm - 710721 - which would correspond with the build date on the vin tag.
And lastly I got a medium-sized box with lots and lots of individually packaged parts.
 

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Cycleranger said:
One thing I found interesting is what looks like a date code on the swing arm - 710721 - which would correspond with the build date on the vin tag.
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Frame looks great. Medium gloss is a good choice to match the original
I can't quite figure out where you see the date stamp on the frame. Looks familiar but can't place it.
 
Not much happening. I put the forks back together but the springs still need bead blasting and paint.
I'm not going to polish the forks, they look ok and I'm just not feeling it. I'll probably rub them with a bit of aluminum polish and leave it there. Polishing sucks and my setup isn't the best so it takes a lot time.
I'm going to reuse those gaiters. Somehow they are still soft and pliable after all these years.
New tires arrived. I went with Duros.

It's interesting to me that the only thing that has changed in more than fifty years about that warning label is the font.
I like the the original bold font better but it's not worth reproducing just for one sticker.
 

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Cycleranger said:
Not much happening. I put the forks back together but the springs still need bead blasting and paint.
I'm not going to polish the forks, they look ok and I'm just not feeling it. I'll probably rub them with a bit of aluminum polish and leave it there. Polishing sucks and my setup isn't the best so it takes a lot time.
I'm going to reuse those gaiters. Somehow they are still soft and pliable after all these years.
New tires arrived. I went with Duros.

It's interesting to me that the only thing that has changed in more than fifty years about that warning label is the font.
I like the the original bold font better but it's not worth reproducing just for one sticker.
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I like how the sticker says "under normal conditions" :)
 
Did you ever think "I should do that, how hard could it be?"
Then later you're like wtf was I thinking but it's too late you're committed..
Maybe if it wasn't 104° in the shop today I would have had better judgement. I'll never know.
 

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stl360+450 said:
Referring to the bushing removal, I take it?
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Indeed. It was no fun and frankly probably not entirely necessary but oh well.
I got them out without damaging the hub, which was the goal.
Yeah, it's pretty damn hot but I have a small separate room in the shop with AC to cool off.
 
Cycleranger said:
Indeed. It was no fun and frankly probably not entirely necessary but oh well.
I got them out without damaging the hub, which was the goal.
Yeah, it's pretty damn hot but I have a small separate room in the shop with AC to cool off.
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I guess I'm glad I didn't replace those bushings on my wheel! I've got everything in my basement for now to avoid the heat. Operations will move to the garage when I'm ready to lay the frame over the motor. My basement (cellar) has a door to the backyard.

Hopefully they go in easier than they come out.
 
stl360+450 said:
I guess I'm glad I didn't replace those bushings on my wheel! I've got everything in my basement for now to avoid the heat. Operations will move to the garage when I'm ready to lay the frame over the motor. My basement (cellar) has a door to the backyard.

Hopefully they go in easier than they come out.
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The most effective method of removal seems to be digging out the rubber and center tube molded in using a hole saw, then the outer shell will collapse easier and come out. They just drive in like a bearing basically, but I'm glad my 450 had solid dampers in place so I didn't have to bother with them. Unless the rubber gets deteriorated they usually last a long time.
 
stl360+450 said:
How are things going down in Texas? I assume it's very hot.
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Currently 102, at 7pm.
Yes, the heat is making things move slowly and will continue to do so.
However, I have gotten most of the parts I need in so all I need to do sleep during the day and work at night! :)
I'll have some updates in a day or so.
 

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Cycleranger said:
Currently 102, at 7pm.
Yes, the heat is making things move slowly and will continue to do so.
However, I have gotten most of the parts I need in so all I need to do sleep during the day and work at night! :)
I'll have some updates in a day or so.
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Good idea. Those low temps aren't so bad!
 
Progress has been slow due to the ongoing perpetual heat wave but I have gotten a few things done.

Today I got the front brake plate back together with new seals and such then I got the new tires mounted.
Putting on the new tires was a heck of a lot easier than removing the 40+ year old ones.
If you change your own tires and don't have a Motion Pro Bead Buddy get one, it's worth it.
It really helps by providing a third hand when installing a tire.

I do have a problem with the rear brake plate. One the cotter pins was corroded and broke.
I should have been more careful with it.
I'm going to have to get a 2mm pin punch and see if can get it out. I don't want to try to drill it...yet.
And this is the first time I've gotten new parts from Honda that had Thai on the labels!
 

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Cycleranger said:
I do have a problem with the rear brake plate. One the cotter pins was corroded and broke.
I should have been more careful with it.
I'm going to have to get a 2mm pin punch and see if can get it out. I don't want to try to drill it...yet.
Click to expand...

Same thing occurred with my rear brake rebuild. The pin was really rusty. My not wanting to drill period eventually ended and then I put a new pin in. Hopefully your what else can I try period will be more successful.
 
Cycleranger said:
Progress has been slow due to the ongoing perpetual heat wave but I have gotten a few things done.

Today I got the front brake plate back together with new seals and such then I got the new tires mounted.
Putting on the new tires was a heck of a lot easier than removing the 40+ year old ones.
If you change your own tires and don't have a Motion Pro Bead Buddy get one, it's worth it.
It really helps by providing a third hand when installing a tire.

I do have a problem with the rear brake plate. One the cotter pins was corroded and broke.
I should have been more careful with it.
I'm going to have to get a 2mm pin punch and see if can get it out. I don't want to try to drill it...yet.
And this is the first time I've gotten new parts from Honda that had Thai on the labels!
Click to expand...

WD40 or ? and a small finishing nail with the point filed flat
 
stl360+450 said:
Same thing occurred with my rear brake rebuild. The pin was really rusty. My not wanting to drill period eventually ended and then I put a new pin in. Hopefully your what else can I try period will be more successful.
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Ha ha! Yeah, I've already tried a variety of objects to punch it out but I don't have anything that thin with the required rigidity, the cotter pin pieces are really in there.
There are chemical methods I have read about that could be an alternative. But we'll see.
When it is clear I'll be using a stainless cotter pin in place of the original steel one so this won't happen again.
 
Cycleranger said:
Ha ha! Yeah, I've already tried a variety of objects to punch it out but I don't have anything that thin with the required rigidity, the cotter pin pieces are really in there.
There are chemical methods I have read about that could be an alternative. But we'll see.
When it is clear I'll be using a stainless cotter pin in place of the original steel one so this won't happen again.
Click to expand...

Split cotters are hateful things. I like the hitch pins better.
 
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