ballbearian
Veteran Member
Bummer, either too long a screw or leftover media bound it up. I never trust blind holes of FSM specs, clean to the bottom then measure.
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AD
71ish CB450 build
- Thread starter boddy
- Start date
Pretty much had to be blast media, I'm guessing. Shame it happened to what was otherwise a nice assembly. Brad, another way to know which way the intake cam goes is to look for the oil restrictor orifice. It's in the right side end of the cam where the timing mark is.
I think I remember reading about the oil restrictor but couldn't remember which side it was supposed to be on.
That's the truth - it's always something tiny like this. Luckily, it's an accessible one that isn't a really high compression load, so a M6 helicoil should get you back on track - it's looking really good so far.
Difficult road leads to beautiful destinations... or so I keep telling myself.
I see it as a minor set back. Will look at drilling it out some time today and then will have to go get a helicoil.
Got around to my little problem today. Drilled out the old screw but was a little off center so there were some threads left in one side. Got something pointy and dug the remainder of the threads out. Went to the local automotive store and got a helicoil repair kit.
I have a cheap drill press that I clamped the head to and then rotated the base so that the repair hole was at 90 degrees to the drill bit. I was able to center the bit ans drill a clean hole then blew out the swarf. Tapped the hole then put in the helicoil.
Made sure all the other screw holes were clear and then continued with the assembly. Head is now complete.
I have a cheap drill press that I clamped the head to and then rotated the base so that the repair hole was at 90 degrees to the drill bit. I was able to center the bit ans drill a clean hole then blew out the swarf. Tapped the hole then put in the helicoil.
Made sure all the other screw holes were clear and then continued with the assembly. Head is now complete.
Felt like Christmas today. Got back my parts from the powder coater. Everything was wrapped to protect it on the way home.
Frame came out nice
Decided to tackle the shock mount bushings. Before the powder coating I removed the center of the bushing and left the outer in the swing arm which I ground down to have a thin area. I took a hack saw and cut through the remainder of the outer bushing. With a small punch I removed a strip of the outer bushing and then it all came out easily after that.
Next step is to install the new bushings
Frame came out nice
Decided to tackle the shock mount bushings. Before the powder coating I removed the center of the bushing and left the outer in the swing arm which I ground down to have a thin area. I took a hack saw and cut through the remainder of the outer bushing. With a small punch I removed a strip of the outer bushing and then it all came out easily after that.
Next step is to install the new bushings
Beautiful parts, like the satin finish.
Thanks. The options were a gloss or semi gloss. To me the semi gloss looked more like the factory finish, the gloss was way shinier than what Honda did back in the day.
Did a little bit more on the frame parts since they got back from powder coating. Inserted the rear shock bushings using a large wood clamp to press them in.
Had to lightly sand the bronze bushings to get the center collar to fit.
Next I put various pieces back on the battery box including the Sparck Moto regulator/rectifier
Put together the front and rear foot pegs. New rubber for all the foot pegs, kick start and shift lever.
I figured it would be easier to install the main foot peg rubbers once installed on the frame.
Took the connector off of the ignition switch, cleaned the connectors and put new shrink wrap over the wires as the old covering was hard and cracked. Got new spacers and rubber grommets for the ignition switch bracket.
Not putting any of this on the frame just yet as I want to finish the engine and then lay the frame over the engine for the engine install. Don't want to have a lot of extra weight on the frame when I do this.
Had to lightly sand the bronze bushings to get the center collar to fit.
Next I put various pieces back on the battery box including the Sparck Moto regulator/rectifier
Put together the front and rear foot pegs. New rubber for all the foot pegs, kick start and shift lever.
I figured it would be easier to install the main foot peg rubbers once installed on the frame.
Took the connector off of the ignition switch, cleaned the connectors and put new shrink wrap over the wires as the old covering was hard and cracked. Got new spacers and rubber grommets for the ignition switch bracket.
Not putting any of this on the frame just yet as I want to finish the engine and then lay the frame over the engine for the engine install. Don't want to have a lot of extra weight on the frame when I do this.
I want to start on the engine next but before I do, I need to clear coat the case. Mine were pretty pitted and lots of oxidized aluminum. I bead blasted, cleaned and painted the cases. I used the VHT caliper paint and cured it in the oven but noticed that it would easily come off with some laquer thinner. I opted to go with the Spray Max 2K clear coat to further protect the painted cases.
From reading the specs it seems like something you don't want to breathe in, so I will do this in the garage with the doors open and wearing a mask.
Question: has anyone used this 2K clear coat before and how did it stand up to gas spills. Anything to watch out for when applying such as too much gives a cloudy finish, easily runs, etc?
From reading the specs it seems like something you don't want to breathe in, so I will do this in the garage with the doors open and wearing a mask.
Question: has anyone used this 2K clear coat before and how did it stand up to gas spills. Anything to watch out for when applying such as too much gives a cloudy finish, easily runs, etc?
All the parts look great. The bike is going to look fabulous.
Good thinking, it's so much easier to do it that way and then assembling the rest of it afterward is easy too. When I had my 450 apart for the frame repairs, I pulled the entire front end off at the steering stem. With tapered rollers it was simple reassembly (well, except for the weight of the whole front end, but it helped that I did the front end first while the rear wheel was off).
stl360+450
Veteran Member
I've used it over paint on tanks and the engine side covers on my XL350. I do think it holds up well to gas and other chemicals.
My rattle can skill is not so great and in hot, humid weather in my area I have had drips occur, but I think that was user error (too close, too much, too humid) rather than a defect with the paint.
That SprayMax is pretty easy to work with - that VHT Caliper paint, not so much (I've had better luck with Duplicolor engine enamel). Anyway, do a light coat, give it 5 to tack up, light coat again, give it 10, then hit with a good even medium coat. The engine case is textured, so it hides airborne overspray really well, the trick to no getting drips are those first couple of tack coats, and them maintaining a consistent distance with your final coat - it pushes pretty high volume for a rattle can. If you can, keep your air compressor with a nozzle nearby, I've had pretty good luck with correcting a drip if you catch it real wet and feather it out with compressed air.
Good to know. The specs say it stands up well to chemicals but just wasn't sure about gas.
Thanks for the tips on spraying the 2K and about keeping the compressor on hand if any runs do appear.
It's currently 90F with 70% humidity (says it feels like 105F) so I think I'd better wait for cooler temps before spraying.
Right now the frame is completely stripped. I thought of putting the main stand on then dropping the frame over the engine. In your experience should I pre-assemble anything else before laying it over the engine?
All I had on the frame was the brake pedal and right footpeg (but mine is different and isn't tied to the centerstand). The footpeg was actually helpful, kind of a handle to work with.
Thanks. I think I will do the main stand and the grab handle used for putting the bike on the main stand.
Since the engine goes into the frame on the left side and the arm on the centerstand will be sticking out that direction, it might cause some interference. The grab handle will be fine. Have one of the long lower motor mount bolts handy and slip that in first to stabilize things.
Duh, forgot about the arm on the center stand, that's going to make things awkward. I will leave the stand off for the engine install.
Yeah. That’s not ideal, particularly for clear coat over the engine paint. Speaking of which - how long ago did you do the oven cure?
The label said to cure it must in the oven at 200F for 1 hour, which is what I did.
Give it a solid few days to off gas before clearcoat, it’ll be way more durable.
RobMan
Veteran Member
I’m looking forward to seeing some pics of the progress. It is motivating for me to see other folks making progress.
It's been about 5 weeks since I painted the cases and cured them in the oven. It's supposed to cool down by the end of the week so I will likely tackle this in a couple of days from now.
Oh yeah. Plenty of time then. We could definitely use a couple of coolish days down here - send whatever y’all have left over!
I also get motivation from other threads. Progress can be slow at times when waiting for parts or in my case it's lots of other projects around the house that need doing.
The good, the bad and the ugly - here's the ugly. Started to clean the fenders and there is a lot of rust on the rear fender, especially near the tail light. The front fender looks like rust moles have been travelling under the surface.
I will try some evapo rust to see what happens, but I am not hopeful. With the rest of the bike being brought back to almost new, I don't think I can use these fenders. I guess I have 2 options, find replacements or strip the chrome and paint the fenders silver similar to the Bomber or CB77 color.
Anyone stripped chrome before, how hard it it?
I will try some evapo rust to see what happens, but I am not hopeful. With the rest of the bike being brought back to almost new, I don't think I can use these fenders. I guess I have 2 options, find replacements or strip the chrome and paint the fenders silver similar to the Bomber or CB77 color.
Anyone stripped chrome before, how hard it it?
I've never stripped chrome before but I can tell you that with the right color combo, painted fenders can look good on a CB450, @birdland's bike is proof.
I always liked the look of @birdland's bike, and painted fenders came to mind because of his bike.
Spray Maxx 2K is toxic to your lungs, really bad nasty stuff. Only use it in a well ventilated area unless you have a respirator style face mask. The cheap paper painters masks are worthless, minimally a cartridge filter type.
As for durability, it's great. Gas, brake fluid, etc. all clean off easily w/o paint damage. Some carb sprays will leave a cloudy surface.
As for durability, it's great. Gas, brake fluid, etc. all clean off easily w/o paint damage. Some carb sprays will leave a cloudy surface.
Thanks. I think I have a respirator mask somewhere, I know I have extra cartridges in the workshop. I will definitely use the mask.
When I use it I'm in long sleeves and pants, gloves, goggles and cartridge respirator.
Good to know, I will take the necessary precautions.
You wouldn't need to strip the chrome to do this. Some 600 and then 800, prime, then 800 again, basecoat and clear.
I was thinking the same thing, except for the pits and little rust trails that will show up unless feather-edged, which is really hard to do with properly-done chrome. Might take a fair amount of primer and sanding to cover them.
At this point I have nothing to lose, so I might try sanding to see if I can get the surface smooth enough for primer and paint.
birdland
Veteran Member
Saw the shout-outs (thanks guys) and thought I'd jump in. This is a better pic, in sunlight - and the most polished the bike has ever been. I have an image somewhere of another of these done over in a deep green tinted battleship grey. It's REALLY nice.
Looking really good, you've been busy over the winter!
Been away for a couple of weeks so didn't get a chance to do much. Located my respirator but now too humid to apply the SprayMax 2K to the engine cases. Managed to source a front fender from member @Cafeguy. Should arrive this week. For the rear fender I decided to sand the worst area and left the rest of the chrome intact as it was not too bad. I will keep it like this until I can find a suitable replacement.
With the seat on, it won't be too noticeable....or maybe I should have gone with more contrast like black??
With the seat on, it won't be too noticeable....or maybe I should have gone with more contrast like black??
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Nice. Perfect spot for the large round VHT sticker too.
Like this....
EXACTLY like that!
Bought some after market flashers for the front and rear. The front flashers will be grounded through the stems to the headlight fork ears, however the rear flashers needed a ground wire. Luckily the reflector had an attachment screw that I used as a ground point. Found a small ring and crimped that on and then fed the ground wire thru the flasher body alongside the existing wire.
I pulled on the existing bullet connector and it came right off, so I decided to change the bullet connector while I was adding one to my new ground wire.
I pulled on the existing bullet connector and it came right off, so I decided to change the bullet connector while I was adding one to my new ground wire.
Yesterday I thought I would paint the headlight bucket as I thought the humidity had dropped somewhat - wrong! My gloss black came out a cloudy grey once it had dried. Notice the edge of the bucket where it didn't get as much humidity stayed somewhat glossy black. Will wait a few days and sand to roughen up then try again.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Good catch on the bullet connector and will save you from trying to catch a ghost later. Wow how high is your humidity? I normally only use rattle can but I don't think I have ever seen color change like that and I have lived in some humid climates.
It didn't feel very humid, but when I checked the weather site for yesterday, it was at 94%. This was a rattle can gloss black that I used over primer that had cured for more than a month.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
I've never seen that big a change, either, and the humidity gets pretty high in my area as well. I gather it looked okay coming out of the can, so I'll be interested to see if it's the can or the conditions that caused it. Just out of curiosity, have you ever had it occur before?
When spraying it went on as gloss black but when I came back about 20 mins later it had clouded over to what you see now. Never had this happen before.