1979 CM400A Winter Rebuild [COMPLETE]

Maraakate

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⚠⚠NOTE TO THOSE WHO USE THIS AS A GUIDE. WHEN I REFER TO BOLT SIZES I AM REFERRING TO THE SIZE OF THE HEAD⚠⚠

I'm not 100% ready for this yet, but figured I will start some documenting here.

I have 34,700 miles on my 79 CM400A. I originally had about 12,000 on it when I first got it back in 2011/2012. Maintenance has been done every year by me. Everyone has a different definition of this; in my case it meant setting valve clearances, cam chain tension and oil/filter change. I've replaced the drive chain once. Sprockets were still pretty good, funds were tight at the time but I was able to squeeze 10,000 miles out of this with regular, consistent oiling. I was using 90W gear oil for many years, but have finally switched to Maxima Chain Wax as the gear oil tends to make a mess. Compression still pretty decent at 155psi both sides. But let's do better and get it back to book spec of 185psi.

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The plan here is to use all OEM parts. I got a spare 78 CB400T engine that was partially seized. The cylinder (not the head) is the same part number for 78 CB400A and 79 CM400A. I will be sending this out to get it bored 0.50 oversize. I also have another cylinder and a cylinder head coming from a 78 CB400A in case things are out of spec.

I'm also getting OEM intake and exhaust valves. If it is possible I will see if Kibblewhite could duplicate it based on a NOS valve, but I have not heard back yet and it may cost so much that it may be impractical for me to do so.

I'm slowly accumulating parts. All these kind of builds end up turning into a "while I'm in there..." type of project. So yes, the current plan is:

  • Bore oversize to 0.50". OEM pistons and rings.
  • New OEM intake and exhaust valves.
  • New balancer chain.
  • Changing the balancer weights to the later style that is a single, sealed unit from a 450.
  • New cam chain.
  • New cam chain tensioner.
  • New cam chain sprocket.
  • Refreshing the starter clutch with rollers, springs and caps. I will be inspecting if it or it's gears are junk and need replacement.
  • All new o-rings and seals. All of them will be OEM.

I have secured some parts already, and will be providing pictures as parts slowly accumulate. There won't be much progress here until riding season is over. Probably around December/January for me.

Total cost of parts, not including shipping is currently estimated at ~$915. So probably about $1000-$1100 over all. Does not include the balancer weights, but add another $20-$50 here and there, kinda/sorta/maybe. Machine work will be somewhere around $500... Add another $150-$200 for shipping. So, let's just throw an easy number out there say $2000 all together. Technically more than the bike is worth in some areas. It's not an investment for me. I'd like to keep it running and running correctly for years to come.

Current parts list and status can always be found here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1w3Sy89URxFIHhlzX6_lwiwnj-EWaOLyDFlIBPIHAx3U/edit?usp=sharing. Cosmetic pieces won't be ordered for this build (and are not calculated into the total). Not important right now. Anything grey means likely will not be ordering, but added to the list just in case.

Pictures of parts already acquired:

Head gasket
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0.50" oversize rings.
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Used cylinder.
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There are three known problems with the bike that need addressed, thus the rebuild:

  • Balancer chain was never adjusted in 35K miles(whoops!). I was young, naieve and just never did it. I finally got around to doing it and it still amazingly has life left, but should be replaced.
  • Many years ago, my dad and I put an Athena gasket kit on it as the cylinder started to weep between the cylinder and head. This cured the problem briefly, but returned a week later. Part of the reason is inferior gaskets used, but also because we both missed replacing the o-rings and seals in this area. Bike has been running fine with this minor leak for years. I always keep the oil topped off.
  • Starter clutch is getting weak. It will freewheel if held longer than 2 seconds. Bike always starts pretty easy, so not a big deal... but might as well do it now. Over the years I've almost exclusively used the starter from dead cold and then have used the kickstarter throughout the day.

As far as I know, I don't really know of anyone else who has put this many miles on a Hondamatic, or have really rebuilt one and talked about it on here (besides Bill H @oldtimer). Should be interesting, fun, and a learning experience for me. I've never dived into bottom ends on larger stuff before. Only mopeds.

CURRENT STATUS AS OF 12-22-2023
Done! Thanks for everyone here for support and reading. Hope this helps someone in the future!
 
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Things currently ordered and waiting on:

  • Piston Pins.
  • Piston Pin Circlips.
  • Torque Converter O-Ring.
  • Torque Converter Inner Cover O-Ring.
  • Special "double o-ring" like gasket for Crankcase.
 
This barely qualifies as parts acquired... but I have had this for years. One of the first things I bought for this bike was an actual FSM. Not a scan, or an nth-gen copy; but the real deal. Includes addendums up to 1981. The book is way better quality than the PDF that has been perpetuating throughout the internet. I found it cheap about 12 years ago by someone who mistakenly listed it as "Honda Twins Manual" on eBay.

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Some day I hope to get this thing up to my friend who has a batch document scanner that I used at my previous job and get us nice scans.

At Mike's suggestion I also acquired the OEM piston ring compressor tools. They are excellent quality and I have practiced it with the old piston in the used cylinder. They work great. Was worth the expense:

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Everything looks good there. The used cylinders don't look too bad so .5 over should be fine, proof will be when they're bored out.
The only change to your parts list would be to use Viton valve seals rather than OEM. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CM400A-CM400-AUTOMATIC-VALVE-SEALS-VITON-/232586230908 This seller is actually Schumann Motor Works who does the 350 & 450 heads. He might be able to make SS valves for you since he makes them for the 350's
 
Everything looks good there. The used cylinders don't look too bad so .5 over should be fine, proof will be when they're bored out.
The only change to your parts list would be to use Viton valve seals rather than OEM. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CM400A-CM400-AUTOMATIC-VALVE-SEALS-VITON-/232586230908 This seller is actually Schumann Motor Works who does the 350 & 450 heads. He might be able to make SS valves for you since he makes them for the 350's

Right, and with my current cylinder and another on the way one of those should be a good candidate for 0.50 over.

I can check with Schumann and see. The valves are unique to the Hondamatics so there are no SS options available... not yet. Maybe that could change after I ask around.
 
I can check with Schumann and see. The valves are unique to the Hondamatics so there are no SS options available... not yet. Maybe that could change after I ask around.

He makes them, so I can't see why he couldn't for you with stock samples.
 
Right, and with my current cylinder and another on the way one of those should be a good candidate for 0.50 over.

I can check with Schumann and see. The valves are unique to the Hondamatics so there are no SS options available... not yet. Maybe that could change after I ask around.
I'm pretty sure Chris can make the valves, just needs an original to work from.
 
He makes them, so I can't see why he couldn't for you with stock samples.

Yes, I was just reading a post where you mentioned he made titanium valves for your 450. I sent him an email on ebay, unless you know a better contact option?

It's kind of superflous to go SS... but if it's say $100 per valve then its really not that bad for not having to worry about recession for a very long time.

NOS prices for the valves are around $35-$50... so double the price for SS sounds reasonable to me. Assuming that's what it would cost.
 
Here you go


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    8613 SE Strawberry Ln, Milwaukie, OR, United States, Oregon


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    (503) 939-7395



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    [email protected]
 
Yes, I was just reading a post where you mentioned he made titanium valves for your 450. I sent him an email on ebay, unless you know a better contact option?

It's kind of superflous to go SS... but if it's say $100 per valve then its really not that bad for not having to worry about recession for a very long time.

NOS prices for the valves are around $35-$50... so double the price for SS sounds reasonable to me. Assuming that's what it would cost.

Here's his direct email - Chris Schumann [email protected]
 
Haven't heard from Chris, but I did order the 0.50" over size pistons. CMS had 3 left and it was the best price.

I received the double o-ring like gasket that is for the bottom end.
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DSS was unable to locate the two remaining piston pins in their stock so I was refunded. Unfortunately, I have only been able to source one.

There are two vendors: one in Germany, the other is in the Netherlands. They both claim to have it. I sent Jensen a PM to see if he is able to secure them for me as the NL vendor is not doing online orders at this time.

https://www.classic-bikes.de/en/honda-cb-400-t1-/-t2-kolbenbolzen-13111-413-000-3
https://hazekamp-middelstum.nl/product/pistonpen-honda-cb400-oa-t-serie/
 
Nothing from Chris, maybe he's on vacation. In the mean time, the pistons are on their way from CMSNL and I have one piston pin arriving shortly. We'll see if Jensen can get the other one for me. If not, the German vendor has 7 in stock. Though it will cost about $50-$60 USD with shipping. But, if you can't get it... well you gotta pay up! :biggrin:
 
Nothing from Chris, maybe he's on vacation. In the mean time, the pistons are on their way from CMSNL and I have one piston pin arriving shortly. We'll see if Jensen can get the other one for me. If not, the German vendor has 7 in stock. Though it will cost about $50-$60 USD with shipping. But, if you can't get it... well you gotta pay up! :biggrin:

Try calling Chris as well as email, he's really busy and your email might have gone to spam, who knows.
 
I found that Megazip claims to have the bottom end gasket kit in stock which would include the oil cooler gaskets. Placed on order via PayPal. This way if it never shows up or is a scam then I can get my money back. It claims it has to come internationally and might take about a month to receive it. Will keep everyone updated on the progress. They appear legitimate, but it's hard to say. A member here posted that they did receive a part from them but it was the wrong part and they had to send it back. But, this gasket kit should be sealed and have a part number on it so we'll see.
 
Megazip emailed me back to say it was out of stock and refunded me.

That pretty much confirms what Jim suspected, they scour the internet for listings and 'repeat' them, take orders and then attempt to secure the parts from wherever they found the listing. They apparently don't actually stock the parts.
 
That pretty much confirms what Jim suspected, they scour the internet for listings and 'repeat' them, take orders and then attempt to secure the parts from wherever they found the listing. They apparently don't actually stock the parts.

Probably.

I got the US source piston pin today. Was not in the original bag. Concerned, I cleaned off the storage grease, compared the taper to the old pin and test fitted it to the old piston. It is correct.
 
Probably.

I got the US source piston pin today. Was not in the original bag. Concerned, I cleaned off the storage grease, compared the taper to the old pin and test fitted it to the old piston. It is correct.

It's getting harder and harder to trust the parts we buy to be OEM. I'm always skeptical when I see parts on eBay with a Honda part number label sitting with the part in the picture but the part is not in a sealed Honda package.
 
Shared the parts spreadsheet to help keep track of progress. Link is here but I have also updated the first post to include it. Cosmetic pieces won't be ordered for this build (and are not calculated into the total). Not important right now. Anything grey means likely will not be ordering, but added to the list just in case.
 
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I have about $9000 in my 450 ad I know I'll never get half that for it, probably less. So it's mine for the duration.

We talked on the phone last night, but just to reiterate it here... When you get this heavy into it you will NEVER get it back. You do it simply because you love the bike and want to do it. At the price I'm spending I could literally buy two more CM400As. But who knows their history? And there's fun and pride in how hard and long I've riden this one until rebuild time. Then going another 40K on the same engine and frame.

I know most people don't care, but to me it's fun and will be a good learning experience into diving into more complex bottom ends. Something I want to do if I want to be able to help others.
 
We talked on the phone last night, but just to reiterate it here... When you get this heavy into it you will NEVER get it back. You do it simply because you love the bike and want to do it. At the price I'm spending I could literally buy two more CM400As. But who knows their history? And there's fun and pride in how hard and long I've riden this one until rebuild time. Then going another 40K on the same engine and frame.

I know most people don't care, but to me it's fun and will be a good learning experience into diving into more complex bottom ends. Something I want to do if I want to be able to help others.

Yeah, when I was spending that money I knew it would be permanently invested. Besides, my 450 is not like a stock bike at all, it has a specific startup procedure aside from the whole 1 to 2 minute idle period for oil flow to get to the top end, and the low rpm performance is flat due to the long duration camshafts in it too. There would be a learning curve for anyone buying it used, along with a maintenance learning curve too.
 
We talked on the phone last night, but just to reiterate it here... When you get this heavy into it you will NEVER get it back. You do it simply because you love the bike and want to do it. At the price I'm spending I could literally buy two more CM400As. But who knows their history? And there's fun and pride in how hard and long I've riden this one until rebuild time. Then going another 40K on the same engine and frame.

I know most people don't care, but to me it's fun and will be a good learning experience into diving into more complex bottom ends. Something I want to do if I want to be able to help others.
The road bike has toured the US twice including parts of Canada, sort of have an emotional attachment to it now. Other bikes may come and go but this one will stay regardless of what I have to do to keep it going.
 
Same. This was my first street bike and still runs great. Maybe one of my kids will want to take it out someday :lol:
 
Today I ordered a lot of small parts where it was cheapest through Partzilla.

Most of it was oil seals and o-rings, new carb and air box bands, exhaust gasket, exhaust studs (I fully expect them to be a pain to remove and will need new ones, plus mine are rusty looking), exhaust flange nuts, starter clutch rollers, starter clutch spring caps and valve cover bolt grommets.

I was close, but not quite to "free shipping" and it would have ironically cost more without the free shipping. So I did throw a couple of cosmetic parts in there such as: four new "wire bands" for the handlebars, the four screws that go on the muffler heat shields (mine are rusty looking), a few drain circlips, and brake rod springs for the CM400A and CB550K (the 550K needs it as it was binding a bit and I had to trim it back).

The rest of the parts remaining on the list will likely be sourced from DSS or eBay NOS as DSS had way cheaper prices on some things compared to Partzilla.

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At this point what remains is the valves, valve seals, valve cover gasket, copper washer rocker bolts, balancer chain (and 450 balancer), cam chain, cam chain tensioner, camshaft sprocket, torque converter inner/outer covers, cylinder o-rings, cylinder dowel pin gaskets, cylinder base gasket, transmission/final drive oil seal, one more piston pin, and a lowly crankcase o-ring.

Getting close. Spreadsheet updated accordingly.
 
Updated the spreadsheet to show total to go and adjusted total with machine work. Currently $600 to go for parts.
 
Glad you found the double o-ring . The last A I rebuilt it took several months to find one . The oil cooler o-rings and the timing chain slippers were also hard to find. I have replaced the rubbers in the balancers but its not an easy task. You said solid balancers from a 450 . I used solid balancers from a 81 CM 400 A in a 78 CB 400 A. They are all the same. You might check the balance chain slippers when you get it down they wear out . With the 2 speed tranny the motor is easy to work on . The only hard part for me was once I got the balance chain timed to the crank I would move the chain 1 tooth trying to put the slippers in with these big old hands. Be carful with the crank. I dont know if you will need crank and rod bearings. The bearings are color coded and matched to the crank and case . should be in the manual. anyway watch cleaning the crank as you will wipe the code off . What saved me was the bearings had a fine color mark on the edge of them and I bought the same color mark bearings . Cant think of anything else right now . I dont think you will have any problems but if you do I have photos of my build.

Have fun

Bill H
 
Thanks for the tips. I'm going to keep the bearings organized and plastigage for wear.

The cam chain tensioner assembly includes the slipper yes? I was planning to replace the rubbers regardless for good measure.

If I can't find that o ring for the oil cooler I won't be removing, but just the starter. However, I have found a lead but won't know more until mid August.
 
It appears the tensioner assembly 14500-413-000 and 14620-413-010 can still be found if these are the two parts you had trouble with. I was planning to replace those anyways because I do know the rubber deteriorates sometimes.
 
Yes the cam chain guide part number 14620-413-010. About 4 years ago they were scarce, also the balance chain slipper part number 13430-413-000 and the chain guard plate. part number 13431-443-000. The oil cooler packing part number 15912-417-000. Those three were also hard to find.

Bill H
 
That packing/gasket for oil cooler if my source falls through next month then I'll just leave it on the bike. Not much else I can do. It looks like you can leave the cooler on and still do a rebuild. Not the best, but no options.

Depending on condition may or may not re-use the balancer slipper and guards.

Lots of pictures and parts identification upon R&I. Especially with regards to the plain bearings and rods.
 
Also, I know it is universally hated for Clymer/Aftermarket SMs. However, their R&I procedure for the balancer has better pictures, and is written better than the FSM. It even explains that it's done upside down and the pictures clearly show it better while upside down. I will refer to both books to make sure there aren't discrepancies.

I always refer to the FSM, but if it's poorly described or bad pictures I will refer to an aftermarket book for some clarity. Obviously, you must use common sense when doing this.
 
Pistons have arrived. I measured with calipers (a bit of a bologna thing to do, but will tell me if it's actually oversize) and it is.

I have compared it to the 400T piston and the skirt is the same. The main difference is the top is entirely flat on a 400A piston. So there is about ~4.5mm that would need to be removed assuming there is enough material to do so. Also, where the exhaust valve "seats" it's about 0.5mm lower. Not sure if that would be an issue as I don't know mechanical engineering as well. However, it sounds like in a pinch if you could source oversize 400T pistons and assuming there is enough material to work with then you could make it work. I believe there is many more 400T pistons out there than 400As.

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Nice new pistons, I like it.
Cutting down the domes depends on the interior underneath. If you measure the depth from the skirt to the center point under the pin on the A and T pistons you have the answer, in theory they'll be close. But then again they may be way different to keep piston weight down.
 
Nice new pistons, I like it.
Cutting down the domes depends on the interior underneath. If you measure the depth from the skirt to the center point under the pin on the A and T pistons you have the answer, in theory they'll be close. But then again they may be way different to keep piston weight down.

Maybe, I didn't weigh the pistons. Though I suppose I could. I won't be attempting to make a 400T piston work, rather I wanted to post the information in case someone else out there wants to attempt it.

I think if there's enough material and yes, the weight (forgot about that) is close then it would work. Maybe not as well as the correct piston, but usable.

You can see in the pictures that the rings are aligned in the same exact spots, so is the piston pin. But yeah, I didn't check the depth.
 
Merry Christmas, Happy Birthday, and Happy Anniversary to me.

Partzilla order came today. Lot of stuff:

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Went through and sorted it all by labeling all the bags:

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As mentioned previously, I had to pad the order a little bit because of the shipping price. So I got a new brake spring, holder, nut pieces and wire bands for the handle bars.

It was a good thing, replacing that brake spring and nut. Look at how worn they were compared to new:

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In the meantime, ordered the other piston pin from eBay. Got Exhaust Valves, Exhaust Valve Seals, Starter Clutch Springs, the Cylinder Head bolt gaskets (the two that are easy to miss), Cylinder Head Copper Rocker Washers, and the Cylinder o-rings (which are also easy to miss) ordered from DSS.

Updated the excel spreadsheet accordingly. About $520 to go. Here's what's left: Intake Valves, Intake Valve Seals, Valve Cover Gasket, Balancer Chain (and 450 balancer), Cam Chain, Cam Chain Tensioner, Camshaft Sprocket, Torque Converter Outer Cover, Cylinder Base Gasket, and Transmission/Final Drive Oil Seal.
 
First of three DSS orders arrived today.

This one is a couple of extra o-rings not really required, but good to keep around. The two that are important to the rebuild are the piston pin circlips and the insulator o-rings. I will measure the insulator o-rings for an MCM replacement to keep costs down in the future.

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Ordered cylinder base gasket and transmission oil seal today with some extra goodies (sourced another OEM insulator set. will be hoarding a few to keep it going for a long time).

Will be ordering the intake valves and seals by the end of next week.
 
Measurement of the insulator o-ring for someone who wants to buy a pack from MCM instead of paying $20 for two every time you need them:

40mm ID x 45mm OD x 2.4mm W.

MCM has 2.5mm W which should compress just fine. They have an NBR one that meets the specs, is likely the same as the original: https://www.mcmaster.com/9262K451/

You have a few options though, there's a Viton one: https://www.mcmaster.com/1295N464/

There is also a red silicone one, very good temperature range however does not explicitly state motor oils: https://www.mcmaster.com/5233T719/

I'll stick to the NBR one. All are about $1-$2 per o-ring. Even with the rip off they do for shipping such a small order it's still under $3 per o-ring. Not too bad.
 
Spare cylinder and head came today.

Cylinder is quite good. Better than the other one. But, I will be sending both out to see if the lesser of the two is machinable to 0.50 over and keep the other one as a backup.

The camshaft does have a bit of scoring on one of the inner sides. I believe I recall Jim mentioning this is common on the 400s due to the oiling system and if it's run low on oil a few times (which is common) then this is the result. Not sure if this is harmful/fatal. I can feel it with my fingernail. The other marks on the cam and rockers are superficial and I cannot feel them with my fingernail.

One exhaust rocker has some pitting where it meets the valve adjustment. Not sure if this is bad, but I can source another one if I have to.

What do you think?

Cylinder, looks a bit funny/dirty because I cleaned it with brake cleaner then oiled with assembly lube to prevent rusting:

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Camshaft, head and rockers:

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Another piece I acquired in this lot of parts from a running engine being parted out: Change Switch and Torque Converter Oil Check Valve. Both are incredibly rare parts that may take months to find. Maybe years for the change switch because nobody knows what it is and in the 12+ years I've been trolling eBay with daily email alerts I have only ever seen one show up NOS. If you want either of these parts you have to buy a whole engine assembly; which is cost prohibitive to ship so hope it's within driving distance... or someone wants a ridiculous amount of money for one, or you have to hope and pray it eventually shows up. Doubtful you'll ever really see either show up as nobody knows what these parts are inside them. You can get lucky with the check valve by looking at torque converter inner case assemblies and sometimes it's still stuck to it. You'd have to relay to the seller it's critical that part is still attached and not lost during shipping.
 
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Forgot I still had those 78 CB400T rockers. There is one good exhaust rocker that has very minimal pitting. Mostly superficial. The other one has the same amount of wear. So I suppose this is also common. But it does look like I have a usable one to swap.

Intake rockers are unique to the Hondamatics in case anyone is curious.
 
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