1971 CB350 . . . 40 year hibernation

Thanks, Tom! Definitely going to drive slow and avoid highways. I'll need to go about 11 miles each way for the inspection and there are two U-Haul facilities within about 2 miles of my house. The front wheel goes to the front center of the trailer, so the motor will be as far forward as possible. My car weighs about 3800 lbs, so about three times the loaded trailer weight.
Just a passing thought; have you ever backed up a vehicle that was hitched to a trailer? Maybe you have plenty of practice with that. If not, it is certainly something to consider. Most people think they will simply avoid any areas where they need to back the trailer. Sometimes you don't get that choice.
 
Just a passing thought; have you ever backed up a vehicle that was hitched to a trailer? Maybe you have plenty of practice with that. If not, it is certainly something to consider. Most people think they will simply avoid any areas where they need to back the trailer. Sometimes you don't get that choice.
It does take some practice to get used to turning your steering wheel in the opposite direction of what you want the trailer to do. Short necked little trailers react very quickly the steering wheel input. Go very very slow when backing so you don't jacknife it and damage the Golf or trailer. If it gets too jacked, you must pull forward and start over. There are limits to correcting a sharp angle.
 
Just a passing thought; have you ever backed up a vehicle that was hitched to a trailer? Maybe you have plenty of practice with that. If not, it is certainly something to consider. Most people think they will simply avoid any areas where they need to back the trailer. Sometimes you don't get that choice.
I have only a little experience, from many moons ago with a rental truck and a car on a tow dolly. I'm sure this would be obvious to onlookers, but I'll just move slowly and cautiously. I have been watching the old Claude Akins show Movin' On recently for whatever that's worth. =)
 
I have only a little experience, from many moons ago with a rental truck and a car on a tow dolly. I'm sure this would be obvious to onlookers, but I'll just move slowly and cautiously. I have been watching the old Claude Akins show Movin' On recently for whatever that's worth. =)
Now you've done it. You went and introduced an ear worm! It's a good one though.

The white line is a lifeline to the nation, and men like Will and Sonny make it move . . .

You have to be a certain age to remember stuff like this. ;)

 
I've been watching almost exclusively old TV for years (many over the air stations here) and my recording device (Tablo) recently suggested the show. I was single digits at the time it came out, but know Claude Akins from lots of other stuff and couldn't believe I had never heard of it. It's pretty fun to watch for the first time, I must say.

And the theme song has definitely been stuck in my head...
 
I've towed stuff around for reasons like yours, as well as for reeling in new project finds. U-Haul trailers filled the bill. If you don't want to back the thing up, stop someplace near to where you're headed and push the bike the rest of the way. It's easy enough to load that trailer by yourself.

I always bring an air pump with me. It's hell to push something with low tires, and flat tires make it seem impossible. Air them up, push it on the trailer and tie it down tight. Check it again after a few minutes.
 
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I always bring an air pump with me. It's hell to push something with low tires, and flat tires make it seem impossible.
Great suggestion.
Air them up, push it on the trailer and tie it down tight. Check it again after a few minutes.
And to expound on the above, and I'm sure you know this Brody, never tie a bike down on the centerstand or sidestand. Or over the seat.
 
I received the new o-rings for the alternator cover screws yesterday and installed them. I went back to a single gasket and ran the motor for a few minutes as a test. It let a few drops of oil out, so I decided to cut a new gasket from a thicker piece of generic gasket material. I taped down one of the old gaskets at three spots around the circumference and then traced with a Sharpie. I used scissors for the outside edge and an X-Acto knife for the inner edge. I also chased the three threaded holes with a tap before reinstalling the cover with the thick gasket.

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The topic of a handlebar ground came up in @Cycleranger's thread and that inspired me to add a ground wire from the bottom of the left handlebar clamp to one of the mounting bolts for the headlight bracket, which should tie in with the ground for the front turn signals.

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The hitch installation for my VW Golf is scheduled for tomorrow.
 
A couple of times I've copied an old gasket by smearing oil on face of the old one and then carefully pressing it onto a sheet of gasket material. The oil transfers to the material well enough that you can cut it out. An old pair of nail scissors works to cut the tight areas and a leather hole punch tool is useful for punching the bolt holes.
 
Waiting at U-Haul... installation is taking longer than expected. May have a ways to go since the installer seems to have gotten a late start.

Will 6 ft ratchet straps be long enough or should I get the 10 ft ones?

I'm also considering the 4 x 7 foot open trailer, but that will be another day. I have a wheel chock on two 2x4's that I've used in the past in the back of friends' pickups. This trailer weighs a couple hundred pounds less than the motorcycle trailer.
 
Waiting at U-Haul... installation is taking longer than expected. May have a ways to go since the installer seems to have gotten a late start.

Will 6 ft ratchet straps be long enough or should I get the 10 ft ones?

I'm also considering the 4 x 7 foot open trailer, but that will be another day. I have a wheel chock on two 2x4's that I've used in the past in the back of friends' pickups. This trailer weighs a couple hundred pounds less than the motorcycle trailer.
6 ft. should be fine but having the 10's would be useful for other things if needed.
U-Haul MC trailers seem to be built to carry overloaded HD baggers
 
6 ft. should be fine but having the 10's would be useful for other things if needed.
U-Haul MC trailers seem to be built to carry overloaded HD baggers
Thanks, Jim.

The lobby shares a wall with the installation bay. All I've been hearing would look like this in a comic strip: $#*&@! But it should be done soon.
 
It took about four hours all told. I was expecting one and a half, so I bowled three games at the bowling alley down the street and then waited in the lobby for almost three hours.

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The installer was a nice guy. They had difficulty with the wiring, apparently the part called for did not work as expected so the link to my car's wiring was hard wired.
 
Glad things came out okay. I know you'll carefully check the lights when you connect the trailer.
My wife always helps me do a light check before I leave with my trailer. Same thing most times before I leave on one of my bikes. Earlier this year, I loaned the trailer to a high-tech friend. He was some sort of software engineer before he retired. He showed up with a multi-level hitch that had several different ball sizes on it. We found the right setup and he got hooked to the trailer. I told him to get into his truck and I would help him with a light check. He replied, "No need, there is a phone app for that!" He stood behind the trailer and proceeded to make his truck go through running lights, brake light, LH turn, RH turn. I was impressed :) (y)

Your hitch bar looks good on there!
 
Glad things came out okay. I know you'll carefully check the lights when you connect the trailer.
For sure. After four hours, I probably should've double checked that the car's lights were still working!

I told him to get into his truck and I would help him with a light check. He replied, "No need, there is a phone app for that!" He stood behind the trailer and proceeded to make his truck go through running lights, brake light, LH turn, RH turn. I was impressed
That's a great idea for an app. Looks like they are typically from the manufacturer and I'm guessing my car can't do it.

Hopefully the rental folks can help with that before I pull out with the trailer.
 
For sure. After four hours, I probably should've double checked that the car's lights were still working!
After all that, great point!
Hopefully the rental folks can help with that before I pull out with the trailer.
Really, all you have to do is turn on the parking lights and the 4 way flashers. For the brake lights, if the trailer is backed up near anything that isn't in direct sunlight you should be able to see the reflection of the brake lights in your rear view mirror.
 
This morning I got the salvage inspection scheduled for 20 August. The trooper who handled the call was very nice and asked about the repairs and documentation – I think he was impressed to hear about the documentation for the frame repair. I had asked about temporary registration previously and was only told that they would not write a ticket at the inspection site, but this trooper volunteered the fact that salvage vehicles are eligible for one-day registration. It would cost about $8 plus the time to wait in line at the DMV. The round trip of 15–20 miles is longer than I'd like for an unproven bike, so I'm not sure about that.

I put about a mile on the bike this morning, in the neighborhood. I say about because the odometer still shows the same mileage that it did when I disassembled it for cleaning and paint. However, the speedometer seems to be working fine. The tach has perked up a bit since I sprayed cable lube into the business end of it, but I may end up checking out the market for used gauges. (The tach was whining loudly at the time of first start and reacted to engine speed changes wildly.)

The base gasket is showing some oil seepage mostly around the outside of the left cylinder, some behind and some in front. I did not use any sealant on any of the gaskets. I'm debating about whether to address this now or wait until after the salvage inspection. I would say I'm in more of a hurry to clear the bureaucratic hurdles than I am to put the bike into daily use, so I may have my answer.

I used a laser thermometer to check the head temperature adjacent to each sparkplug. I got about 215–220 F on both sides.

I then put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and saw the voltage go above 14 V as I increased the engine speed, so it appears to be charging.

Finally, I removed the 6mm oil check bolt from the head and, after a second or so, oil started gurgling out at a steady pace.
 
This morning I got the salvage inspection scheduled for 20 August. The trooper who handled the call was very nice and asked about the repairs and documentation – I think he was impressed to hear about the documentation for the frame repair. I had asked about temporary registration previously and was only told that they would not write a ticket at the inspection site, but this trooper volunteered the fact that salvage vehicles are eligible for one-day registration. It would cost about $8 plus the time to wait in line at the DMV. The round trip of 15–20 miles is longer than I'd like for an unproven bike, so I'm not sure about that.
Just so I understand, Missouri will sell you a one-day registration for $8 that will let you ride the bike to the inspection station without getting a license plate violation ticket? That seems rather strange that they would let you ride 15-20 miles on a bike that they have not yet blessed as safe to ride. Oh well!

The $8 fee would be cheaper than buying the hitch and renting a trailer, but I guess if the bike quit on you 15 miles from home, the trailer would be good to have!
 
Just so I understand, Missouri will sell you a one-day registration for $8 that will let you ride the bike to the inspection station without getting a license plate violation ticket? That seems rather strange that they would let you ride 15-20 miles on a bike that they have not yet blessed as safe to ride. Oh well!
That is my understanding, and I even asked for clarification regarding a vehicle with a salvage title. The other person had suggested I wouldn't get a ticket from MSHP for an inspection trip, but couldn't vouch for other authorities.

The $8 fee would be cheaper than buying the hitch and renting a trailer, but I guess if the bike quit on you 15 miles from home, the trailer would be good to have!
For sure. The biggest part of the trailer expense is now over, so I think I'll play it safe and use the trailer. It sounds as if the bike is only there for VIN verification. The rest is about receipts documenting the repairs. It can remain on the trailer for the inspection and will still need a regular safety inspection once the new title is issued.
 
I always run my load straps not parallel to each other. The front straps from the handlebars to the front corner of the trailer and the rear straps from upper shock mounts or a solid part of the frame to the rear corners of the trailer. Triangles are more stable than squares. Bike suspension should be compressed.
Also the nylon part of the strap should not be wrapped around any edges, they will chafe and the strap will fail.
Always re-check strap tension after the first few miles and re-adjust as needed.
 
I bought a four pack of straps from U-Haul and they were WAY too long. Had to tie up the extra slack on the top rails of the trailer.
Yeah, thanks, Dan. I almost bought the same set, if they were 10 foot straps. I ended up choosing a two pack of 6 foot straps (red?) and two 3 meter straps (orange). The orange ones were U-Haul brand, I think, and had a higher load rating.

Did you use your car or another vehicle?
 
Yeah, thanks, Dan. I almost bought the same set, if they were 10 foot straps. I ended up choosing a two pack of 6 foot straps (red?) and two 3 meter straps (orange). The orange ones were U-Haul brand, I think, and had a higher load rating.

Did you use your car or another vehicle?


Ended up borrowing my Dad’s truck. When me and Jarek got the handlebar straps cranked down, the bike was solid as a rock. We did the two rear straps as extra precaution. Any bump I hit, the motorcycle didn’t move at all. But there is always that paranoia. I checked the rear view mirror every 30 seconds!
 
I checked the rear view mirror every 30 seconds!
Same way I felt the first trip to the mountains with the 450 on the carrier. Second trip I was still watching but a lot less paranoid. I can tell you that there were some under-construction areas of I-75 that had the bike moving a LOT, but to the credit of a good strapping arrangement and a set of quality ratchet straps, all went well. But it's still in your mind every minute and makes you look. Rodney has the advantage of being able to easily watch his with it on the front of his truck.
 
Here’s from when I took mine home if it helps.

I bought a four pack of straps from U-Haul and they were WAY too long. Had to tie up the extra slack on the top rails of the trailer.
I like to hook the rears to the top of the shocks to get the rear suspension compressed too. From an overhead view the straps should form an 'X' not an 'H'.

Always inspect the stitching on the strap ends and for any frayed parts. You can't use too many straps but can use too few.

I'm an old Boy Scout and could do it all with ropes and knots but I've collected a whole bucket of strap sets over the years because they are handy.
 
I have a bunch of straps from Harbor Freight. They work fine. It's really amazing how two straps from the bars (make sure the bolts that hold the bar clamps to the steering system are good and tight. If the bars rotate down things get sloppy fast) to tie-down hooks in the forward corners of the U-Haul trailer really lock the bike down. It's much easier if you can have someone sit on the bike while you get those two hooked up and snug. After that you can pull on the loose ends of the tie-downs and compress the front suspension by yourself. Hooking up the rears is easy enough because the bike is just standing there solidly already. I would definitely attach them to a high point like the tops of the rear shocks and then to a tie down loop to the rear of the bike, like #ballbearian suggested. You want sort of equal tension at all 4 corners. Yank on them to get some tension against the suspension. I usually stop after a few blocks and recheck the straps.
 
I used to have at least five people I could count on if I needed a bike trailered somewhere. Over the years, they have all gone out of the picture, with several of them passing away. I wound up buying a trailer because I thought I should have one in case one of my old bikes quit somewhere on the road. My thought is that I could find somewhere to park the bike and call my wife to come pick me up. Then I would hook up the trailer and go back for the bike (if it was still where I had parked it).

The reality is that I have moved at least a couple dozen bikes for others, but I have yet to carry one of my own bikes in my trailer! I guess that's a good thing.

stl360+450, just a word to the wise -- watch out for friends in need, now that you have that new tow hitch installed and are within reach of a trailer.
 
I have been the friend in need a couple of times with my vintage bikes and, as with you, Ray, things changed in various ways over the years and I would now feel uncomfortable calling for a pickup out of the blue. I guess the hitch is a graduation into trailering independence and accountability. Hopefully none of my friends will think to look under the bumper for that hitch!

I visited the U-Haul site this week to make sure they will let me tow the small moto trailer with my car and all is good. The reservation had generated a warning email about the hauling vehicle, maybe because a larger motorcycle could bring the total weight beyond the unbraked towing capability of my car. The trailer in question is at the far right on the picture below and I think we can all agree that my car dwarfs it, at least in the picture.

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The inspection is coming up on Tuesday. I haven't touched the bike since setting up the appointment — I'm focused on getting the paperwork moving without further delay.
 
While waiting for the inspection, I am pondering my options regarding the non-functional odometer. The speedo works. Is there any hope that the odometer can be repaired? Are there any common modes of failure?

I'm looking at used options on eBay and it looks like it will involve a bit of a gamble, since many are untested. Edit: I put in a low offer on a decent, untested speedo and it was accepted at $30 below asking. Now I'm hoping it really was untested.
 
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The speedo working does sound hopeful. If working speedo is required for inspection, I'd leave it alone till after. I doubt odo function would get tested but....

I wish they weren't so hard to take apart to play with. Hope the ebay unit works too.
 
I have an extra set of gauges that came with my donor engine, no idea if they work but you are welcome to them if you need them. Not sure if they would work on your bike and they are kinda rough. The speedo goes up to 130 MPH.
 
If working speedo is required for inspection, I'd leave it alone till after.
That's the plan. I figure I can work on the ordered one in parallel and I think you're right that this won't be any issue for the inspection. The sad thing is that I had the gauge apart once already for cleaning and painting, but did not test it before taking it apart. I will plan to test the replacement gauge before doing anything else.

I have an extra set of gauges that came with my donor engine, no idea if they work but you are welcome to them if you need them. Not sure if they would work on your bike and they are kinda rough. The speedo goes up to 130 MPH.
Let's see how a potential repair and/or the eBay gauge work out, but it's nice to have other options. Thank you!
 
Just so I understand, Missouri will sell you a one-day registration for $8 that will let you ride the bike to the inspection station without getting a license plate violation ticket? That seems rather strange that they would let you ride 15-20 miles on a bike that they have not yet blessed as safe to ride. Oh well!

The $8 fee would be cheaper than buying the hitch and renting a trailer, but I guess if the bike quit on you 15 miles from home, the trailer would be good to have!
In New York you register it without an inspection and they give you a 7ish day grace period to get it inspected 🤦‍♂️

I prefer the French model - no vehicle inspections, but if an accident happens because of lack of maintenance, you’re entirely liable for damages to other drivers, property owners, and the state for roadway repair/plantings etc.
 
And, almost before you knew it, today is the day. Good luck with the trailer and the inspection!
Thanks, Ray!

Unbelievably, the trailer lights have an issue. All good except the left signal activates right blinker on the trailer. Waiting on the guru to arrive and correct it. Used the time to practice backing up — it is tricky. I guess what is helping me a little is thinking of driving the car backwards as if I were trying to push the trailer with the bumper.

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I still have 2.5 hours until the appointment.
 
One trick is to hold your steering wheel with only one hand, at the bottom of the wheel. Move your hand left to make the trailer go left (from your perspective in the driver's seat).

If your hand is at the top of the wheel, just chant to yourself as you back up, "Right will send it left, right will send it left."

Then, of course, do the opposite to send the trailer right. Simple, yes?
 
Good luck with the inspection and yes there is a bit of an art to backing a trailer easily which I have never mastered but I have gotten really good at finding parking spots where I don't have to back up. :LOL:
Yep, I suck at it too, one of the reasons I avoid using a trailer unless absolutely necessary. It comes to some people easily, never been that way for me.
 
All done. The inspection was successful, the bike is back in the garage, and the trailer is back at U-Haul. The next step is to mail all of the documentation along with the title to the state capital in order to obtain a new title.

I compressed the forks just about to the max with the two ratchet straps up front and the bike didn't move at all relative to the trailer, although they were bouncing in tandem on the worst sections of pavement along the route. I had to unload the bike so they could look at the VIN in their bay, which at least kept us all out of the sun.

The inspectors were friendly. They noticed that the title showed 1967 and the VIN plate indicates 7/71. They said they filled things out so that will be revised to 1971, which should be correct for this K3. One of the guys said he rode a bike like that at his uncle's place back in the day, but it wasn't in as good shape then as mine is now. He said "Could it possibly have been green?" and seemed surprised when I explained that the metallic gray on my bike is not original.

One nice thing about vintage motorcycles in this scenario is that they deferred to me on everything they had a question about, openly admitting they didn't know anything about old bikes.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement — it is much appreciated.
 
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Congratulations on the successful process, at least to this point. You have the trailer and hitch process proven now, and it sounds like the title is all but guaranteed. A bike takes on a whole different feel once there is a clear title. At that point, you can untie the purse strings and spend money on it like there is no tomorrow! :cool:
 
The people at the DMV in Oakland knew NOTHING about a motorcycle. My 67 has no turn signals, she asked me about that and I told her they weren't required until several years later. Oh, Ok. Why only a VIN on the steering head, no federal label? Same answer, same response. She needed the engine number, I read it to her because she was too fat to squat, Oh OK. Done. Bye-bye.

The best anti-climax ever.
 
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