Engine only turns over in very specific scenarios

Blarfnugle

Blarfnugle

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New Jersey
Hey everyone, it's me with the broken CB360. I'm trying to get the bike started and I'm continuing to have issues. I've replaced the ignition and fuse with a 4into1 version. I've also replaced the regulator/rectifier. The solenoid clicks when I connect it to power and the starter motor also works. However, the only way I can get the engine to turn over is by jumping the prongs on the terminal. At this point I'm pretty much stumped since looking at the wiring diagram everything should work. The only thing I can think of is that the killswitch/electric start connection is bad so I'll take a look at it tomorrow. Does anyone else have anything recommendations for what else I should be checking? I haven't looked at the points or condenser yet but I know I'll have to adjust or change both. Here's a picture of what wires I switched. When I connect the two prongs with the pliers on the solenoid the engine turns over but it results in the plier basically welding itself to the solenoid which is obviously not ideal. Any help is appreciated. I've also attached a video showing it.

 

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There are a few different potential failure points. After rereading your post, it sounds like it's not the solenoid, so you can likely skip the first point below. It would be good to check that the starter button is working correctly.
  • The solenoid could be bad. If you disconnect the Y/R and Bk leads from the solenoid and jump Bk to battery+ and Y/R to battery-, the magnetic switch in the solenoid should trigger (without fireworks) and the starter should engage. If no, the solenoid is stuck/faulty.
  • The starter button may not be working properly. When pressed, the starter button creates a path to ground through the Y/R wire. You can find this wire coming from the right hand control loom in the headlight bucket. Disconnect. Test the wire coming from the starter button for continuity to ground (green wire) before and then while pushing the button.
  • I'm not sure if yours has a clutch switch. Mine does not, but if yours does, there would be a G/R wire coming from that same loom. If the bike is in gear, then the clutch lever must be pulled in to engage the starter. In neutral, it has no effect.
Looks like you were testing compression. If the carbs are installed, you should be sure to hold the throttle fully open. Otherwise the air flow is restricted and the reading will be low. Same goes if you use the kick starter to do a compression check and it will take five or six kicks to see the full compression.
 
stl360+450 said:
There are a few different potential failure points. After rereading your post, it sounds like it's not the solenoid, so you can likely skip the first point below. It would be good to check that the starter button is working correctly.
  • The solenoid could be bad. If you disconnect the Y/R and Bk leads from the solenoid and jump Bk to battery+ and Y/R to battery-, the magnetic switch in the solenoid should trigger (without fireworks) and the starter should engage. If no, the solenoid is stuck/faulty.
  • The starter button may not be working properly. When pressed, the starter button creates a path to ground through the Y/R wire. You can find this wire coming from the right hand control loom in the headlight bucket. Disconnect. Test the wire coming from the starter button for continuity to ground (green wire) before and then while pushing the button.
  • I'm not sure if yours has a clutch switch. Mine does not, but if yours does, there would be a G/R wire coming from that same loom. If the bike is in gear, then the clutch lever must be pulled in to engage the starter. In neutral, it has no effect.
Looks like you were testing compression. If the carbs are installed, you should be sure to hold the throttle fully open. Otherwise the air flow is restricted and the reading will be low. Same goes if you use the kick starter to do a compression check and it will take five or six kicks to see the full compression.
Click to expand...
I'm going to go and test this right now before it gets too hot!
 
Blarfnugle said:
The solenoid clicks when I connect it to power and the starter motor also works.
Click to expand...
When you say you connect power to the solenoid do you mean by pressing the starter button? If the solenoid clicks when you hit the starter button then the issue is the solenoid.
 
boddy said:
When you say you connect power to the solenoid do you mean by pressing the starter button? If the solenoid clicks when you hit the starter button then the issue is the solenoid.
Click to expand...
No I mean quite literally connecting connecting the black and yellow/red wires of the solenoid to the +/- battery terminals the solenoid match a click thunk noise. According to the manual that's how you test if it's working.
 
Blarfnugle said:
No I mean quite literally connecting connecting the black and yellow/red wires of the solenoid to the +/- battery terminals the solenoid match a click thunk noise. According to the manual that's how you test if it's working.
Click to expand...
As Brody pointed out in his first point, if the starter motor doesn't turn when connecting the solenoid leads directly to the battery then the solenoid is faulty. If you reconnect the black and Y/R wires to the harness and press the starter button and get a clicking sound then you know it not the starter button.

You could try taking the solenoid apart and cleaning the contacts.
I did this on my C78 here.
 
boddy said:
As Brody pointed out in his first point, if the starter motor doesn't turn when connecting the solenoid leads directly to the battery then the solenoid is faulty. If you reconnect the black and Y/R wires to the harness and press the starter button and get a clicking sound then you know it not the starter button.

You could try taking the solenoid apart and cleaning the contacts.
I did this on my C78 here.
Click to expand...
Could it also be that the ignition switch isn't working? I wasn't getting continuity when I tested it according to FSM.1000030460.jpg1000030461.jpg
 
What manual are you using, it's describing a test for the kill switch yet it's labelled as an ignition switch test. The ignition switch is the one with the key. The kill switch sends power to the coils when in the middle position and is not part of the circuit that activates the starter. What happens when the ignition switch (not the kill switch) is in the ON position and you press the starter button?
 
boddy said:
What manual are you using, it's describing a test for the kill switch yet it's labelled as an ignition switch test. The ignition switch is the one with the key. The kill switch sends power to the coils when in the middle position and is not part of the circuit that activates the starter. What happens when the ignition switch (not the kill switch) is in the ON position and you press the starter button?
Click to expand...

Screenshot 2026-07-03 114804.png

I'm using a physical copy of this manual, that explains why I was so confused! When the kill switch is in the on position nothing happens when I push the starter button.
 
Sounds like we need to see pictures of the main harness connections either in the headlight case or the forward left side of the frame just under the gas tank. Seems like there's an incorrect connection that's causing the kill switch to work incorrectly. The picture above showing the multi-connector black wire and black with white from the kill switch seems correctly connected so it has to be elsewhere.
 
If you mean ignition switch is in the on position and nothing happens when you press the starter button then it might be the right handle bar switch. You didn't say if you had a clutch stater lock-out, but if the bike is in neutral and still no luck with the starter button then I would open the HB switch and take a look to see if there is good contact or a broken wire.
Also as AD mentions, check he connections in the headlight.
 
ancientdad said:
Sounds like we need to see pictures of the main harness connections either in the headlight case or the forward left side of the frame just under the gas tank. Seems like there's an incorrect connection that's causing the kill switch to work incorrectly. The picture above showing the multi-connector black wire and black with white from the kill switch seems correctly connected so it has to be elsewhere.
Click to expand...
Will do, I'll take pictures once it's cooler, right now it's just too damn hot in the shed.
 
boddy said:
If you mean ignition switch is in the on position and nothing happens when you press the starter button then it might be the right handle bar switch. You didn't say if you had a clutch stater lock-out, but if the bike is in neutral and still no luck with the starter button then I would open the HB switch and take a look to see if there is good contact or a broken wire.
Also as AD mentions, check he connections in the headlight.
Click to expand...
The clutch and the stator are not locked out, that was the first thing I got unstuck. I'll take it apart next time when I get the chance.
 
Blarfnugle said:
The clutch and the stator are not locked out, that was the first thing I got unstuck. I'll take it apart next time when I get the chance.
Click to expand...
The starter lock out is a safety feature on some models that prevents the starter from engaging if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. To bypass this feature make sure the bike is in neutral and the neutral indicator light is on.
 
boddy said:
The starter lock out is a safety feature on some models that prevents the starter from engaging if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. To bypass this feature make sure the bike is in neutral and the neutral indicator light is on.
Click to expand...
AH ok I understand. There's no neutral light so I'll have to manually verify by turning the wheel. I'll give that a try.
 
Solenoid is burned out.
Very common when people try starting with low battery when all you get is brrrrt, brrrrt, brrrrt.
That's the primary coil engaging, moving copper contactor, voltage drop as battery can't supply ~40amps so disengaging then repeating.
There is an internal stop so you get the 'click' like it's working but contacts are burned hollow so can't actually make contact (of course I've had them in pieces :ROFLMAO: )
It is possible to dismantle solenoid (you have to unsolder two wires) file bolts flat, lower stopper and flip movable piece over to unburned 'back'.
Generally lasts several more years (alternatively, just buy a replacement :unsure:)
Clutch switch 'logic circuit' came out 1977 as far as I remember, all Honda's with electric start.
 
crazypj said:
Solenoid is burned out.
Very common when people try starting with low battery when all you get is brrrrt, brrrrt, brrrrt.
That's the primary coil engaging, moving copper contactor, voltage drop as battery can't supply ~40amps so disengaging then repeating.
There is an internal stop so you get the 'click' like it's working but contacts are burned hollow so can't actually make contact (of course I've had them in pieces :ROFLMAO: )
It is possible to dismantle solenoid (you have to unsolder two wires) file bolts flat, lower stopper and flip movable piece over to unburned 'back'.
Generally lasts several more years (alternatively, just buy a replacement :unsure:)
Clutch switch 'logic circuit' came out 1977 as far as I remember, all Honda's with electric start.
Click to expand...
Is this still true if I can turn over the engine by manually connecting the two copper prongs? The bike has been sitting for 40 years so I don't know if it's burned out or just corroded.
 
boddy said:
At this point you have nothing to lose by taking it apart. You will also have the satisfaction of restoring a vintage part if you're able to clean it up and made it work ;)
Click to expand...
Ok so I just took the killswitch apart and almost threw up, there must have been at least a dozen dead insects in there as well as however many mud dauber nests. This picture was taken after a quick clean.

1783165017988.png

In other news, How do I remove the cables? Do I have to unhook it from the carb first?
 
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Blarfnugle said:
Ok so I just took the killswitch apart and almost threw up, there must have been at least a dozen dead insects in there as well as however many mud dauber nests. This picture was taken after a quick clean.

In other news, How do I remove the cables? Do I have to unhook it from the carb first?
Click to expand...
Here is your kill switch problem - looks to have been bypassed for some reason.

1783165084632.png

As to removing the cables, you should loosen all the cable adjusters so you have maximum slack and then you can lift the return (push) cable out of the throttle pipe.
 
This bike is going to require a fair amount of patience due to the fact that it sat for so many years. My CB360G sat outside and unused for 34 years (a decade less than yours has been sitting) and I took it down to the frame and rebuilt it for a variety of reasons, not the least of which was the need to transport it 600 miles in a passenger car.

Wasps and other bugs like these protected, dry environments, so you may find more of that as you clean out other areas. Mine had a mouse skeleton in the air box cover, but the Owner's Manual was still intact under the seat!

If you completely separate the housing from the bar, you might be able to get the he throttle cables out of the tube, but the wiring doesn't give you much wiggle room and it's a bear to pull those old hardened plastic sheaths through the bar. I think I brought my bar inside the house and spent a couple of hours doing that back in 2014. It wouldn't hurt to remove the throttle cables and lube them, off the bike. Or replace them. 👍

There was some confusion earlier regarding the main ignition switch (key) and the ignition kill switch (RH control).
  • You hear the click when you jump the solenoid leads to the battery terminals, but the starter doesn't get power. As mentioned above, this tells us the solenoid is not working. Either the contacts are corroded or the contact plate is not moving far enough to close the high current switch.
  • The fact that you connected the leads of the solenoid to the battery suggests that the starter button was not working. You can test its function with a multimeter. Pushing the starter button should create a path from Y/R to ground. The starter solenoid receives power on the low current side from black and connecting Y/R to ground closes the circuit and throws the contact switch for the starter (in theory).
  • The main switch delivers power to the harness when the key is in the On position. The black wire on the main switch receives battery power from the red wire in this situation. With the key on, you should see 12V or so on the black wire. This is necessary for the solenoid to function. Main switches do go bad, but I think it's unlikely here.
  • The black wire ends up going through the ignition kill switch and provides power to Bk/W for the coils in the Run position. This does not affect the starter solenoid function.
  • PJ tells us that your model is early enough that there is no clutch switch, so the starter can be engaged with the bike in gear. Avoid that.
Have you verified that you are getting power with the key on? Do any lights come on? Does the horn work? Etc.

Keep at it. The bike will start cooperating at some point.
 
Switch wiring is bit of a mess, probably why it was originally parked up?
I guess whoever owned it back then thought it must be switch because solenoid was clicking?
Anyway, to answer your question, when you use pliers,your just connecting battery directly to starter motor, the heavy duty cable from battery to solenoid then solenoid to starter motor is just that, a wire with a break in it.
You bridge the break with pliers, screwdriver, nail, anything that conducts electricity, it turns over, solenoid completely bypassed.
You can look at clutch lever mounting, if there is an 'extra' hole more or less in line with cable adjuster it is drilled for clutch switch.
I don't know if American models got it earlier than British ones but I doubt they got it before 1976?
California Police had a lot to do with various safety features and as California market bought more bikes than all the rest of USA combined what they wanted they got. (in 70's~80's some models sold 3 or 4 bikes more compared entire U.S. market, more than many other countries.)
 
stl360+450 said:
This bike is going to require a fair amount of patience due to the fact that it sat for so many years. My CB360G sat outside and unused for 34 years (a decade less than yours has been sitting) and I took it down to the frame and rebuilt it for a variety of reasons, not the least of which was the need to transport it 600 miles in a passenger car.

Wasps and other bugs like these protected, dry environments, so you may find more of that as you clean out other areas. Mine had a mouse skeleton in the air box cover, but the Owner's Manual was still intact under the seat!

If you completely separate the housing from the bar, you might be able to get the he throttle cables out of the tube, but the wiring doesn't give you much wiggle room and it's a bear to pull those old hardened plastic sheaths through the bar. I think I brought my bar inside the house and spent a couple of hours doing that back in 2014. It wouldn't hurt to remove the throttle cables and lube them, off the bike. Or replace them. 👍

There was some confusion earlier regarding the main ignition switch (key) and the ignition kill switch (RH control).
  • You hear the click when you jump the solenoid leads to the battery terminals, but the starter doesn't get power. As mentioned above, this tells us the solenoid is not working. Either the contacts are corroded or the contact plate is not moving far enough to close the high current switch.
  • The fact that you connected the leads of the solenoid to the battery suggests that the starter button was not working. You can test its function with a multimeter. Pushing the starter button should create a path from Y/R to ground. The starter solenoid receives power on the low current side from black and connecting Y/R to ground closes the circuit and throws the contact switch for the starter (in theory).
  • The main switch delivers power to the harness when the key is in the On position. The black wire on the main switch receives battery power from the red wire in this situation. With the key on, you should see 12V or so on the black wire. This is necessary for the solenoid to function. Main switches do go bad, but I think it's unlikely here.
  • The black wire ends up going through the ignition kill switch and provides power to Bk/W for the coils in the Run position. This does not affect the starter solenoid function.
  • PJ tells us that your model is early enough that there is no clutch switch, so the starter can be engaged with the bike in gear. Avoid that.
Have you verified that you are getting power with the key on? Do any lights come on? Does the horn work? Etc.

Keep at it. The bike will start cooperating at some point.
Click to expand...
No, no response to bike with ignition switch set to on.
 
boddy said:
So when you turn the key to the on position, you have no lights, horn or flashers working?
Click to expand...
Exactly nothing. HOWEVER, a bunch of the lights are broken but the dashboard does not light up, the horn does not function, and the headlights and turn signals do not respond.
 
Blarfnugle said:
Exactly nothing. HOWEVER, a bunch of the lights are broken but the dashboard does not light up, the horn does not function, and the headlights and turn signals do not respond.
Click to expand...
Maybe you do have a problem with the main switch. Can you try the following?
  • There is a small black wire from the starter solenoid to the harness. Disconnect this and note the harness location.
  • Put your multimeter on 20V setting.
  • Connect black probe to battery minus.
  • Connect red probe to the point on the harness where that black wire plugs in.
  • Turn key to on and note the voltage reading.
If the main switch is getting power through red, then the black wire on the harness should have 12V with the key on.

Is there evidence of further tampering with the wiring harness beyond what ancientdad pointed out with the kill switch?
 
Next step is to check your ignition switch. Below is from the shop manual

1783219424666.png

If you have continuity then check for voltage on the red wire coming from the main harness to this connector block.

Edit: looks like we replied at the same time.
 
stl360+450 said:
Maybe you do have a problem with the main switch. Can you try the following?
  • There is a small black wire from the starter solenoid to the harness. Disconnect this and note the harness location.
  • Put your multimeter on 20V setting.
  • Connect black probe to battery minus.
  • Connect red probe to the point on the harness where that black wire plugs in.
  • Turn key to on and note the voltage reading.
If the main switch is getting power through red, then the black wire on the harness should have 12V with the key on.

Is there evidence of further tampering with the wiring harness beyond what ancientdad pointed out with the kill switch?
Click to expand...
Aside from wiring that looks like it was rewrapped with electrical tape no, everything looks like it is stock. I will try this!
 
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