Engine only turns over in very specific scenarios

Blarfnugle

Blarfnugle

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2026
Total Posts
33
Total likes
21
Location
New Jersey
Hey everyone, it's me with the broken CB360. I'm trying to get the bike started and I'm continuing to have issues. I've replaced the ignition and fuse with a 4into1 version. I've also replaced the regulator/rectifier. The solenoid clicks when I connect it to power and the starter motor also works. However, the only way I can get the engine to turn over is by jumping the prongs on the terminal. At this point I'm pretty much stumped since looking at the wiring diagram everything should work. The only thing I can think of is that the killswitch/electric start connection is bad so I'll take a look at it tomorrow. Does anyone else have anything recommendations for what else I should be checking? I haven't looked at the points or condenser yet but I know I'll have to adjust or change both. Here's a picture of what wires I switched. When I connect the two prongs with the pliers on the solenoid the engine turns over but it results in the plier basically welding itself to the solenoid which is obviously not ideal. Any help is appreciated. I've also attached a video showing it.

 

Attachments

  • VQjLVy7O.jpg
    VQjLVy7O.jpg
    80.1 KB · Views: 3
There are a few different potential failure points. After rereading your post, it sounds like it's not the solenoid, so you can likely skip the first point below. It would be good to check that the starter button is working correctly.
  • The solenoid could be bad. If you disconnect the Y/R and Bk leads from the solenoid and jump Bk to battery+ and Y/R to battery-, the magnetic switch in the solenoid should trigger (without fireworks) and the starter should engage. If no, the solenoid is stuck/faulty.
  • The starter button may not be working properly. When pressed, the starter button creates a path to ground through the Y/R wire. You can find this wire coming from the right hand control loom in the headlight bucket. Disconnect. Test the wire coming from the starter button for continuity to ground (green wire) before and then while pushing the button.
  • I'm not sure if yours has a clutch switch. Mine does not, but if yours does, there would be a G/R wire coming from that same loom. If the bike is in gear, then the clutch lever must be pulled in to engage the starter. In neutral, it has no effect.
Looks like you were testing compression. If the carbs are installed, you should be sure to hold the throttle fully open. Otherwise the air flow is restricted and the reading will be low. Same goes if you use the kick starter to do a compression check and it will take five or six kicks to see the full compression.
 
stl360+450 said:
There are a few different potential failure points. After rereading your post, it sounds like it's not the solenoid, so you can likely skip the first point below. It would be good to check that the starter button is working correctly.
  • The solenoid could be bad. If you disconnect the Y/R and Bk leads from the solenoid and jump Bk to battery+ and Y/R to battery-, the magnetic switch in the solenoid should trigger (without fireworks) and the starter should engage. If no, the solenoid is stuck/faulty.
  • The starter button may not be working properly. When pressed, the starter button creates a path to ground through the Y/R wire. You can find this wire coming from the right hand control loom in the headlight bucket. Disconnect. Test the wire coming from the starter button for continuity to ground (green wire) before and then while pushing the button.
  • I'm not sure if yours has a clutch switch. Mine does not, but if yours does, there would be a G/R wire coming from that same loom. If the bike is in gear, then the clutch lever must be pulled in to engage the starter. In neutral, it has no effect.
Looks like you were testing compression. If the carbs are installed, you should be sure to hold the throttle fully open. Otherwise the air flow is restricted and the reading will be low. Same goes if you use the kick starter to do a compression check and it will take five or six kicks to see the full compression.
Click to expand...
I'm going to go and test this right now before it gets too hot!
 
Blarfnugle said:
The solenoid clicks when I connect it to power and the starter motor also works.
Click to expand...
When you say you connect power to the solenoid do you mean by pressing the starter button? If the solenoid clicks when you hit the starter button then the issue is the solenoid.
 
boddy said:
When you say you connect power to the solenoid do you mean by pressing the starter button? If the solenoid clicks when you hit the starter button then the issue is the solenoid.
Click to expand...
No I mean quite literally connecting connecting the black and yellow/red wires of the solenoid to the +/- battery terminals the solenoid match a click thunk noise. According to the manual that's how you test if it's working.
 
Blarfnugle said:
No I mean quite literally connecting connecting the black and yellow/red wires of the solenoid to the +/- battery terminals the solenoid match a click thunk noise. According to the manual that's how you test if it's working.
Click to expand...
As Brody pointed out in his first point, if the starter motor doesn't turn when connecting the solenoid leads directly to the battery then the solenoid is faulty. If you reconnect the black and Y/R wires to the harness and press the starter button and get a clicking sound then you know it not the starter button.

You could try taking the solenoid apart and cleaning the contacts.
I did this on my C78 here.
 
boddy said:
As Brody pointed out in his first point, if the starter motor doesn't turn when connecting the solenoid leads directly to the battery then the solenoid is faulty. If you reconnect the black and Y/R wires to the harness and press the starter button and get a clicking sound then you know it not the starter button.

You could try taking the solenoid apart and cleaning the contacts.
I did this on my C78 here.
Click to expand...
Could it also be that the ignition switch isn't working? I wasn't getting continuity when I tested it according to FSM.1000030460.jpg1000030461.jpg
 
What manual are you using, it's describing a test for the kill switch yet it's labelled as an ignition switch test. The ignition switch is the one with the key. The kill switch sends power to the coils when in the middle position and is not part of the circuit that activates the starter. What happens when the ignition switch (not the kill switch) is in the ON position and you press the starter button?
 
boddy said:
What manual are you using, it's describing a test for the kill switch yet it's labelled as an ignition switch test. The ignition switch is the one with the key. The kill switch sends power to the coils when in the middle position and is not part of the circuit that activates the starter. What happens when the ignition switch (not the kill switch) is in the ON position and you press the starter button?
Click to expand...

Screenshot 2026-07-03 114804.png

I'm using a physical copy of this manual, that explains why I was so confused! When the kill switch is in the on position nothing happens when I push the starter button.
 
Sounds like we need to see pictures of the main harness connections either in the headlight case or the forward left side of the frame just under the gas tank. Seems like there's an incorrect connection that's causing the kill switch to work incorrectly. The picture above showing the multi-connector black wire and black with white from the kill switch seems correctly connected so it has to be elsewhere.
 
If you mean ignition switch is in the on position and nothing happens when you press the starter button then it might be the right handle bar switch. You didn't say if you had a clutch stater lock-out, but if the bike is in neutral and still no luck with the starter button then I would open the HB switch and take a look to see if there is good contact or a broken wire.
Also as AD mentions, check he connections in the headlight.
 
ancientdad said:
Sounds like we need to see pictures of the main harness connections either in the headlight case or the forward left side of the frame just under the gas tank. Seems like there's an incorrect connection that's causing the kill switch to work incorrectly. The picture above showing the multi-connector black wire and black with white from the kill switch seems correctly connected so it has to be elsewhere.
Click to expand...
Will do, I'll take pictures once it's cooler, right now it's just too damn hot in the shed.
 
boddy said:
If you mean ignition switch is in the on position and nothing happens when you press the starter button then it might be the right handle bar switch. You didn't say if you had a clutch stater lock-out, but if the bike is in neutral and still no luck with the starter button then I would open the HB switch and take a look to see if there is good contact or a broken wire.
Also as AD mentions, check he connections in the headlight.
Click to expand...
The clutch and the stator are not locked out, that was the first thing I got unstuck. I'll take it apart next time when I get the chance.
 
Blarfnugle said:
The clutch and the stator are not locked out, that was the first thing I got unstuck. I'll take it apart next time when I get the chance.
Click to expand...
The starter lock out is a safety feature on some models that prevents the starter from engaging if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. To bypass this feature make sure the bike is in neutral and the neutral indicator light is on.
 
boddy said:
The starter lock out is a safety feature on some models that prevents the starter from engaging if the bike is in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. To bypass this feature make sure the bike is in neutral and the neutral indicator light is on.
Click to expand...
AH ok I understand. There's no neutral light so I'll have to manually verify by turning the wheel. I'll give that a try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom