Cycleranger
Veteran Member
That looks like the same stuff with new labeling. Check out Lowes or Home Depot. It'll be cheaper.
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Mousetown, my own 73 CL350
- Thread starter ballbearian
- Start date
Nice job, as you said a little primer and paint thickness will make most of those little spots almost invisible, and considering the clutter in that location when the bike is assembled, along with the proper frame number tag on the other side, you'll be golden.
Rather than Bondo how about mixing up some JB Weld and rubbing it into the little cracks and crevices, put a piece of tape over the VIN to be sure nothing gets in there. That way you could PC the frame if you wanted to.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Good to know if I ever get up to that level. As is I've spent $ on abrasives, a new replacement 4" angle grinder, maybe more stripper, etc. for further clean up from the PO's rattle can spree on this frame. It just looks too tacky the way it is, even for me.
My first 350 project is off to a rough start. Par for the course.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
JB Weld can handle up to 550 degrees F. when cured;I've used it outside and on the inside of engines & it hangs in there.
The stuff can be smoothed-off where it won't even be noticeable underneath paint;prime it first.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
A bit more work to sand than bondo but is much stronger. I used it over the welds on my Dream fenders then a couple layers of filler primer before the final paint.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
I use Emery cloth to sand it.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Removed the seat mount frame parts by drilling through the spot welds. The tank mount will just get bolted on the welded nuts from the K2 seat latch.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Got the hinges and side latch for the seat on and just used the threaded mounts for the tank rear bracket, since they were there, even though the K2 used a spring latch catch there, which I don't need.
I even got the 2 helmet hooks on in the right place. I didn't measure twice, I measured 3 or 4 times, at least!
The one K5 bit I don't have is the rear grab bar that goes around to both shock mounts. Maybe one will turn up.
I even got the 2 helmet hooks on in the right place. I didn't measure twice, I measured 3 or 4 times, at least!
The one K5 bit I don't have is the rear grab bar that goes around to both shock mounts. Maybe one will turn up.
Cycleranger
Veteran Member
Nicely done!
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
A K5 in the making
Well done Tom, almost like it was supposed to be there.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Good thing Mr. Greenjeans (73 CB350) is here to look at. I went to put on the seat latch and found it missing it's latch bar, which is not available separately, so I took the good one for a pattern to fabricate one. The original is above the fabbed one in the pic. Another couple hour distraction from the main project but it works.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Nice job — I couldn't do that well with a key cutting machine!
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Cut-off wheel on angle grinder, drill, file and even the saws-all. It's not hardened like the original but it should last quite a while.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
19 inch front tire rubber rodeo
It was difficult to find many options in tire sets with a 19" front. I opted for the IRC GS11 all weather set from 4into1 on ebay (best price) with tubes included.
Weird that the tires came today and the tubes are still in transit from CA (so says ebay tracking). I think the tires came from some wholesale importer warehouse on the east coast.
Anyone using these tires? Metzlers and Dunlops were at least a hundred $ more.
It was difficult to find many options in tire sets with a 19" front. I opted for the IRC GS11 all weather set from 4into1 on ebay (best price) with tubes included.
Weird that the tires came today and the tubes are still in transit from CA (so says ebay tracking). I think the tires came from some wholesale importer warehouse on the east coast.
Anyone using these tires? Metzlers and Dunlops were at least a hundred $ more.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
I've used the IRC GS11AW street tires many times;a very comfortable tire as they are tube-type with a flexible carcass(excellent tires for a lightweight/300lb. bike)and they smooth-out/absorb the small ripples & bumps on your ride.
They do wear quickly,depending on your riding style.
The seat latch part which is broken in yours is a very common problem;I've learned to Not slam the seat down and hope it's latched..
I close the seat carefully by first using the key to fully open the latch,then slowly push the seat down into the latch mechanism while holding the key in the open position until(once the latch 'peg' has entered the mechanism
)the seat is fully closed,then remove the key. I recommend using plenty of grease inside the latch mechanism so it opens and Closes easily:it will save that latch piece.
Cycleranger
Veteran Member
I put GS-11's on my CJ. Nice tires. I like them.
Really nice job on the replica, I'm sure it will last more than long enough for purposes like ours. And the old dealer key fob is a nice touch, I love seeing references to past dealerships. My patina-ed CB350 still has the selling dealer sticker on the rear fender and it's gonna stay there.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
I agree that the dealer stickers are a part of the bikes story and should stay if possible. A nice one on a chrome fender would be just right. I got into an issue on Mr.Greenjeans as it had two on each side cover. They were really nice thick vinyl, 3 color, quality stickers, but Charles and I, at the time didn't like the locations so much. One sticker came off very easy and was moved to the tool box lid, but the other had been in the sun so long, or for whatever reason had sunk into the paint (perhaps due to something in the adhesive), anyway, it left a ridge around it and I tried to gently sand it flush hoping that it was just clear coat but ended up going into the green paint. The local paint shop scanned and made a touch up bottle (no spray can version offered) and I've been procrastinating about the next step. I hope I don't make it worse but figure I should make an attempt at a blended touch up.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Tom,try a bit of polishing compound around that oval spot.
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ballbearian
Veteran Member
Grabbed the wrong grab bar
I bought this (lower one) grab bar on ebay because it was a deal, but it's not a 350 item. The upper one is correct but goes to another project 350. Anyone know what it is? Maybe I can make it work, I don't know. I know the K5's have the wrap around the seat type but this K2 frame has shorter right side shock mount threads and I don't really want to try to cut out and re-weld the mount off the old frame and I'd need the K5 bar anyway and they're not cheap.
If anyone has a grab bar they can part with, of either type, let me know.
I bought this (lower one) grab bar on ebay because it was a deal, but it's not a 350 item. The upper one is correct but goes to another project 350. Anyone know what it is? Maybe I can make it work, I don't know. I know the K5's have the wrap around the seat type but this K2 frame has shorter right side shock mount threads and I don't really want to try to cut out and re-weld the mount off the old frame and I'd need the K5 bar anyway and they're not cheap.
If anyone has a grab bar they can part with, of either type, let me know.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
That's what I used and rubbed through the paint. I'm going to apply (with brush) the touch up paint and gently blend it in, if possible. I'm definitely keeping the original paint on this bike, blemish or not.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
More pics of frame parts and construction. This is a shock mount removed from the junk frame, just to see how hard it would be to replace if needed. If this was a good frame I wouldn't have been so careless with the cut-off wheel.
These are the pressed in swing arm bushings. they knocked right out, no welds to cut.
I still need to cut off the rear brace over the fender and the left footpeg bracket.
Jim, do you still want the right side tube/footpeg bracket?
These are the pressed in swing arm bushings. they knocked right out, no welds to cut.
I still need to cut off the rear brace over the fender and the left footpeg bracket.
Jim, do you still want the right side tube/footpeg bracket?
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Tom,you think adding/welding a little steel up inside toward the steering head/top frame 'tunnel' might help block access to anymore 'mouseville' ?
ballbearian
Veteran Member
stl360+450
Veteran Member
ballbearian
Veteran Member
It sure does. I should check part no. Perhaps the CL's use a different one.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
No, I even looked at the K4 CB in storage and they are all the same. The drawing is not very informative though and I did check many part nos. It's a mystery to me what it is.
Not a priority at this point, just considering options for now. Thanks for looking.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Fair enough. When I look at the CB350 K4 I see a different sketch and a different part number from the CL.
Cycleranger
Veteran Member
That grab bar on the bottom is identical to the one on my CL350K3.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
I could be wrong (wouldn't be the first time) but the drawings for CB and CL looked the same and, yes the numbers ended different; 8000 for CL and 7670 for CB. It sure sticks out to the side a bunch.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
It's a good thing I got friends that know I'm.....challenged.
I just learned to do a double quote! :biggrin:
That maybe the “Mr Big option” for those with extra large sized hands to get one in there for the pull-up
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ballbearian
Veteran Member
I'd like to see Sasquatch on a VHT. :lol:
Well, you've seen John Wayne on an SL350, that has to be similar.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Maybe the wider grab bar on the CLs has something to do with the scrambler exhaust? I wonder whether that grab bar or the mufflers would stick out farther (protection in a fall).
ballbearian
Veteran Member
That makes sense.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Once one of us puts one of these beasts together, we'll have to test that theory, without putting the motorcycle on its side! I've had my fill of that for the time being.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
I'm still cleaning frame and parts, so it's a ways before put together, let alone fall testing.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
I'm still cleaning frame and parts, so it's a ways before put together, let alone fall testing.
One of your 350 projects is a CL, though, right? Do you have a scrambler exhaust?
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Yes, high pipes. It will be a CL for sure. New Mousetown.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Cycleranger has one for us to test pretty soon.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
After removing semigloss over grease and rust from the black hole parts bike donor frame, Mousetown has a new coat of Rustoleum Glossy black Engine paint.
The motor is degreased and ready for the drill wire brush beauty treatment.
Then the leakdown test with a new tool toy.
The motor is degreased and ready for the drill wire brush beauty treatment.
Then the leakdown test with a new tool toy.
crazypj
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2020
- Total Posts
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- 986
The stem will work and is very easy to knock out of yoke as it isn't welded like later models. you have to remove the expander plug first though.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
I just had to go look at the K2 stem to see. I'm surprised it's able to be changed and without heat or a press too. The stem is the same dimensions as the later welded ones so I guess one could grind the weld and repair a later one with an early stem but I would have it welded in (above my welder or skills). I never would have guessed it made like that on such a critical part.
crazypj
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2020
- Total Posts
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- Total likes
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No need to weld, expander plugs were used in crankshafts of radial engines during WWII and didn't have a problem (having cylinders shot off was pretty serious though)
The Honda stem will fit directly into Suzuki 41mm fork bottom yoke (1990's to 95 Katana, maybe later but I haven't tried)
They used to be super cheap as no-one wanted them when sportbikes were being crashed or blown up stunting all the time in early 2000's.
The 43mm 1200 Bandit forks were a different story though, they were somewhat sought after
The Honda stem will fit directly into Suzuki 41mm fork bottom yoke (1990's to 95 Katana, maybe later but I haven't tried)
They used to be super cheap as no-one wanted them when sportbikes were being crashed or blown up stunting all the time in early 2000's.
The 43mm 1200 Bandit forks were a different story though, they were somewhat sought after
ballbearian
Veteran Member
That definitely is pretty impressive construction. Lots and lots of shop time gave you insights about swapping that most will never know.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Since getting Outobie's CB350 K0 and tearing down the Black hole spare motor (as a dress rehearsal), I've been trying to keep Mousetown moving forward.
The motor got a spruce up with the wire bristle wheel and I tried to do a leak down test but it was pretty difficult to keep the crank at TDC with the primary gears off and the side covers off too.
History: Alleged mileage 7392 and appears unmolested. Compression (3 yrs ago, at purchase) 160 left 170 right, now after sitting 100 left 165 right.
Sketchy Leak down showed mucho intake leak on the left, right not able to test effectively.
LEFT intake
Right intake
The plan is to pop the head and attend to the valves/seats, the pistons are an unknown at this point. I'd like to ensure the rings aren't stuck, but not sure if I can lift the jugs and see and or free them up without causing other problems.
Advice and comments appreciated.
The motor got a spruce up with the wire bristle wheel and I tried to do a leak down test but it was pretty difficult to keep the crank at TDC with the primary gears off and the side covers off too.
History: Alleged mileage 7392 and appears unmolested. Compression (3 yrs ago, at purchase) 160 left 170 right, now after sitting 100 left 165 right.
Sketchy Leak down showed mucho intake leak on the left, right not able to test effectively.
LEFT intake
Right intake
The plan is to pop the head and attend to the valves/seats, the pistons are an unknown at this point. I'd like to ensure the rings aren't stuck, but not sure if I can lift the jugs and see and or free them up without causing other problems.
Advice and comments appreciated.