First project bike - how much rust is too much rust

firstprojectbike

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Massachusetts
Hello all,

I have started my first project bike. I have no prior experience or formal training. Sorry if this is redundant. I also posted in the new member introduction. I was advised it is best to document projects in this thread to keep track.

When I bought the bike it was able to start (maybe 20% of the time), and would roughly idle at most for about 20 seconds. No mechanical clanking sounds. I was advised it could be a carburetor issue.

Here is how it sounded when I tried starting it up.



So I took those apart and realized one was missing a butterfly and the small flap on the other (the doggie door looking thing), was completely seized shut. So, I ordered a used replacement set that appeared in better condition on eBay, along with a couple carb rebuild kits.


P1120575.JPG

One of the carbs just wouldn't stop leaking no matter what I did (rebuilt with the original parts and the replacement parts and various mixes and matches of both).


So, I ordered the Mikuni VM28 replacement carbs to get a "sure thing". I apologize in advance for any purists who will be offended by my decisions.

1751412547860.png

While waiting for the Mikuni carbs to come in, I decided to tackle the ignition timing. I could not for the life of me get the timing right and learned it's possible the timing advance mechanism could be out of phase. It proved much harder to remove than expected. Eventually, in the process of pulling it out, I pulled the rocker arm shafts with it, which meant I needed to take the cylinder head cover off to reinstall the shafts correctly. That's when I learned the cover doesn't really come off so long as the engine is bolted in place and it needs to be lowered to make enough clearance with the frame. So, I unbolted the engine and successfully got the cover off, but still didn't have enough room to work withto get the shafts back in place...so...

I removed the whole engine from the frame and put it on my work bench. At that point, for whatever reason, (and I truly do not remember why I decided to do this), I just kept taking the bike apart. I think the rational was something like, "welp, I'm this far in, might as well continue" but it is all a blur.

So, now I have the bike torn apart in a million pieces all over my garage. I hope the sight of it isn't too upsetting.

Where do I go from here? My plan is to get back to the ignition: reinstall the rocker arm shafts, the ignition advance mechanism and timing points (in phase hopefully), and maybe clean up and polish the outside of the engine while I have it on the bench. I would like to do that sooner rather than later while I have some recollection of how the timing advance mechanism was assembled.

After that, I think I might bounce around between cleaning and replacement tasks. Since, I have the entire bike disassembled, now seems like the best time to do some things like getting the frame sandblasted and powder coated, addressing the rust on the rims and spokes, replacing the brakes and tires, rebuilding the forks, repaint the fuel tank, etc. Then once everything is clean and tidy, rebuild it from the ground up - Mikuni carbs and all.

That brings me to my first two questions for this group.

Question 1: How much rust is too much rust?
As in, at what point would I be better off replacing a part versus trying to restore a part? Below are a few images for example.
  • Rims and spokes: I think the spokes should probably go, but I don't know if the rims are salvageable.
IMG_5961.JPG

  • Header pipes: I know that removing the rust won't restore the missing chrome, and re-chroming can be expensive. Would it be cheaper to buy a set in better condition from eBay? Are these functional as is (especially the one on the left)?
Electrical cable Machine Pipe Wire Household hardware


  • Steering stem: This looks like a lot of rust, but obviously aesthetics aren't a concern. If I clean it up and apply some kind of anti-corrosive solution, is this fine to reuse?
Rust Iron Metal Household hardware Pipe


  • Luggage rack: This is the area of least concern since it's an optional accessory. However, I do think it's cool and would like to restore if it's reasonably practical to do so.
Iron Metal Rust Steel



Question 2: Should I do a top end rebuild just because?
I was talking with a mechanic about my project bike, and he recommended doing a full top end rebuild while I have the engine out. Is that a good idea or does it only make sense to do that if I have a specific reason; like there is a specific problem, and a top end rebuild is the most likely solution to fix the problem.
 
Well, it's a full on project now. This is what we do, just not all at once sometimes.

You will have many questions, or should ask, before jumping in. Got to admire your initiative. Glad you post pics too.
I usually do more assessment before disassembly but we can proceed as you wish.
A compression test would be nice to plan motor work. Do you have the factory service manual? You need it. PM the admins for our library access.

Let's eat the elephant one bite at a time.
 
From just that one photo of the wheel I'd say the rust is not great but not fatal. However, it's what the rims look like on the inside that really matters.
That steering stem should clean up with a wire wheel.
 
Well, it's a full on project now. This is what we do, just not all at once sometimes.

You will have many questions, or should ask, before jumping in. Got to admire your initiative. Glad you post pics too.
I usually do more assessment before disassembly but we can proceed as you wish.
A compression test would be nice to plan motor work. Do you have the factory service manual? You need it. PM the admins for our library access.

Let's eat the elephant one bite at a time.
Thanks, what I lack in foresight I make up in persistence, for whatever it's worth. I bought the owner's manual and one of the Clymer shop manuals on eBay, but I will PM the admins to get the factory service manual.
 
From just that one photo of the wheel I'd say the rust is not great but not fatal. However, it's what the rims look like on the inside that really matters.
That steering stem should clean up with a wire wheel.

Thanks. I will be sure to photograph the inside of the rims once I take the tire off and share.
 
What are your plans? A total resto or a rider cleaned up, preserving as much original parts and finish?
I would like to make it look as cleaned up and polished as I can without having to outsource too much. I am not currently planning on having any parts re-chromed, but I would like to sandblast and powder coat the frame if it's not terribly expensive.

My preference is functional over purely authentic. So, I am fine with after market or reproduction parts if they offer substantially better performance or are significantly cheaper, or just easier to come by.

That being said, I am definitely not building a cafe racer or anything custom or off the beaten path. I want it to look mostly the part. The only significant creative license I am taking is the color -- changing from the army looking green to the candy red (reference picture below). I am making the change for two reasons: it improves visibility, thus reducing the likelihood of being hit by a passenger vehicle, and I prefer it.

The red color was also available in the year my bike came out, so hopefully it's not sacrilege to make that change.

1969 Red & White Honda CB350_1.jpg
 
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Welcome to VHT. This is where you want to be.
I'm the poster who said your bike raised several red flags.

The steering stem can indeed be cleaned up and new bearings put in place. My concern is that if that piece has more rust on it than I have ever seen on one from an assembled bike how is the rest of the frame and other components. Trying tapping a hammer on an upper or vertical frame piece. Listen to the sound or ring you get. Now tap all along the bottom rails listening for the same sound/ring. If in doubt about an area take a sharp prick punch and hit it with a hammer.

As to the rims and spokes .... you will know more when you take off the tire as previously posted. The spokes you will end up cutting off either with a bolt cutter or grinder with a cutting blade. The rims will take serious soaking in the rust remover of your choice. For replacement rims with stainless steel spokes you are looking at 4 to 500$ and that is if you can lace them yourself and true them. Go to $600 total if you have to pay someone.

As to your engine, it's out of the frame, you need to check the cam and rockers carefully. I usually estimate $1000 plus for an engine rebuild ..... again that is if you can do the assembly yourself. Engines can easily go higher .... quickly.
 
Welcome to VHT. This is where you want to be.
I'm the poster who said your bike raised several red flags.

The steering stem can indeed be cleaned up and new bearings put in place. My concern is that if that piece has more rust on it than I have ever seen on one from an assembled bike how is the rest of the frame and other components. Trying tapping a hammer on an upper or vertical frame piece. Listen to the sound or ring you get. Now tap all along the bottom rails listening for the same sound/ring. If in doubt about an area take a sharp prick punch and hit it with a hammer.

As to the rims and spokes .... you will know more when you take off the tire as previously posted. The spokes you will end up cutting off either with a bolt cutter or grinder with a cutting blade. The rims will take serious soaking in the rust remover of your choice. For replacement rims with stainless steel spokes you are looking at 4 to 500$ and that is if you can lace them yourself and true them. Go to $600 total if you have to pay someone.

As to your engine, it's out of the frame, you need to check the cam and rockers carefully. I usually estimate $1000 plus for an engine rebuild ..... again that is if you can do the assembly yourself. Engines can easily go higher .... quickly.
Small world. Fancy seeing you here. Thanks again for your input. How should the frame sound at the top versus? Or is it less about a specific sound and more about the sound being the same at the top and bottom of the frame? I am guessing if the frame is compromised I can expect the sharp prick to go through the area.

If there are areas where the frame is compromised by rust, can they be reinforced with welds?
 
Let's hope it's not a NewMousetown.
The steering stem can indeed be cleaned up and new bearings put in place. My concern is that if that piece has more rust on it than I have ever seen on one from an assembled bike how is the rest of the frame and other components. Trying tapping a hammer on an upper or vertical frame piece. Listen to the sound or ring you get. Now tap all along the bottom rails listening for the same sound/ring. If in doubt about an area take a sharp prick punch and hit it with a hammer.

It was quite a project.

 
The rubber seal on bottom of steering bearings was to keep water out, not to hold it in, unfortunately. Where did it come from?

Those steering tubes on the lower triple are really thick, I doubt it will need replaced.
 
Definitely quite a bit of rust, but I'd say salvageable. Consider buying a good bit of a powdered / concentrated rust remover and a big tub to soak everything in. I (and others here) have used Bilt Hamber Deox-C to pretty good success before, and others have used milkstone remover, Rust 911, and so many others. Deox-C is speculated to just be citric acid powder, but I haven't tested or confirmed that, could be worth a try.
 
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