CB360 Electrical Upgrade

dogsandfilm

dogsandfilm

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I'm fixing up a 360 and took it to a mechanic for new tires and ignition timing and he pointed out a few more things that should be fixed on the bike.

The bike is pulling 12.5V at the battery and 11.9V going into the coils. Mechanic recommended upgrading tail light bulb and possibly turn signal bulbs to LED. (Also recommended removing wiring connections and soldering wires together to remove weak points in the system but I'm a beginner with no soldering experience and would rather avoid that one for now if possible.)
Also, the PO put in a battery that's too big for the bike and while it does work it hits the seat (seat can close still).

What do I need to do to upgrade the tail lights and possibly turn signals to LED?
And is there a good AGM battery for the bike that anyone can recommend?

As well, the fuse to the head was improper and not working so I put in a spare one in the fuse box, a 5A one, and now I can turn the headlight on. However it sounds like I should have a 7A in there, correct? A certain motorcycle parts website tells me those fuses aren't available anymore and I should go with their 7.5 amp fuses instead. Is this good advice or misleading?
 
The difference between a 7 and 7.5A isn’t going to do anything really.

As far as the LED conversion goes it’s just a matter of buying the bulbs and an LED - capable flasher relay.

Now, you really should do something about the wiring. He’s not just suggesting that for giggles - bad wiring will cause early failure if a number of much more expensive parts.

If you have crappy splices get some of these. They’re no match for doing it the right way, but light years ahead of twisted wire with tape or some plastic crimp connector.
 
I usually just pull connectors apart and clean them.
The 'bullet' ones almost always need tightening up, the blade block connectors (from engine to wiring harness) are often a little corroded but easy enough to get out and clean (use an old wire coat hanger, flatten it ti little less than 1/16" then file to little less than 1/8" wide or, you could buy a connector disassembly tool for $20.00. )
There is a little tab that needs flattening to remove blade/spade connector from terminal block.
Takes a little practice but simple enough if you have any mechanical aptitude.
I came across some pictures I took in 2008 , after changing tail light, 'side light' and instrument bulbs to LED my 360.
It was charging at 0.5 amps on idle which is quite unusual as they often don't load balance until 3,000 rpm (Honda designed bike so power going out from battery equaled power coming in from generator around 2,500~3,000rpm)
I did the rectifier regulator at the same time though so completely stock may not give such good results? (I'm not going into 'how to fit a 1990's Suzuki R/R into a 1970's Honda')
I will say that the Suzuki Intruder R/R is one of the best out there though as it was designed to sit above exhaust pipe so made to a much higher standard than on any of the GS/GSX range
 
Thank you both for the advice! I'll be looking into these approaches more
 
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