CA95 project(s)

Fixed it. Took all the keyster parts out, put in the originals. Found the eclip stuck to a magnetic bit on work bench. Starts up, runs and idles
 
oldjeep said:
Got back to the CA95 this morning to find out why no spark. Apparently when I put the air filter in, I pulled one of the wires off the coil. Duhhhhhhh. Fired right up after that, but wants to run at a few thousand RPM. So next thing to figure out is why. The manual isn't great, but I did set the air screw and 1.5 turns out (it was at 2) and that dropped the idle a little. Turning it down further did nothing. I also disconnected the throttle at the grip to make sure that it was not pulling - seems to not be.

So- I'll start searching, but any advice on what the issue may be?
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Carb slide in backwards, or overtorqued carb mount bolts warping carb body, causing slide stickage. Long slot in slide faces away from idle speed stop.
 
oldjeep said:
Just for the sake of argument - if you have Not attached the breather line on the cylinder head to anything or the line that comes off the carb spacer - would that do anything bad?
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Intake leak from carb spacer. Two lines to AF, one from spacer, other from powerjet nozzle.

Head breather just back and down under to free air.
 
ballbearian said:
Intake leak from carb spacer. Two lines to AF, one from spacer, other from powerjet nozzle.

Head breather just back and down under to free air.
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powerjet nozzle?? So a hose put over the top of that jet that faces backwards?
 
No. Power nozzle is not filtered. Both vents (head and Insulator) can be vented to the atmosphere. The vent on the head will spew oil when/if rings or valves go bad. The insulator vent may spew oil when valve stems wear out.
I used an aftermarket air cleaner and punched a couple of holes for the vents anyway. It's likely with a fresh engine, no issues predicted when venting ports left open. (IMO)
 

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Makes sense. I can see why I might want to run a tube from that jet, mostly just to keep dirt out of it. Given the size of the orifice, I also can't see why it would care if it was in air filter our outside.

It is starting and running nice, but still need to fix my throttle tube. It still has some sort of gunk that keeps turning into glue and jamming the throttle. Ordered some wire brushes to put on drill and hopefully get it cleaned out better.
 
FWIW - the issue with the carb seemed to be that the 2 adjusters had a different profile on the tips than the ones that came out of the carb. But I just put everything back from the bag I had saved of the original parts. Been burned on this before with supposedly good kits.
 
It is truly inconvenient and frustrating about the carburetors for these bikes. New replacement carbs can't be found and good used ones cost too much. I spent untold hour fussing with the original time period carb I used on the 62 and I too have been burned by wrong kits.
I went so far as buying a CB160 carb manifold, cutting it in half and sending out the 38mm ctr to ctr side of the manifold to a machinist friend to machine the manifold end to press fit a new racing carb.

Just so happens the original period carb was fine, and I never tried it out.
 

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Spokes said:
No. Power nozzle is not filtered. Both vents (head and Insulator) can be vented to the atmosphere. The vent on the head will spew oil when/if rings or valves go bad. The insulator vent may spew oil when valve stems wear out.
I used an aftermarket air cleaner and punched a couple of holes for the vents anyway. It's likely with a fresh engine, no issues predicted when venting ports left open. (IMO)
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Spokes is right about insulator drawing from valve guides, so not possible for intake leak. Only intake leak might be my brain. Power nozzle hose to filtered air is a good idea and was used on most models.
 
Plumbed in the fuel tank, checked for leaks, rolled it off the lift and decided to roll it out of the garage and take it for a ride. Note for next time - see if the clutch releases. Ah well, tomorrow problem 😁. Put the Skorpion on the lift since it may snow tonight and rolling into the yard isn't gonna work then. But with snow come ski racing season, so life is good
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Went back to the shop to grab a bike for a ride and the ca95 is dripping fuel from the petcock area. Looks like using just the paper gasket was not enough. Will drain it when I get back and do a better sealing job
 
May as well admit every stupid thing I have done. I started going through the manual on the clutch adjustment and it involves using the kick starter. I had installed and tested it before the exhaust showed up - yeah it hits the exhaust. Not sure what it came from but after doing some internet searching - it is not a CA95 kick. So ordered one up and will fix that in a week or so.
 
oldjeep said:
May as well admit every stupid thing I have done. I started going through the manual on the clutch adjustment and it involves using the kick starter. I had installed and tested it before the exhaust showed up - yeah it hits the exhaust. Not sure what it came from but after doing some internet searching - it is not a CA95 kick. So ordered one up and will fix that in a week or so.
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Jeez, if that's it then I'm way ahead of you in dumbass moves. I literally was just pleased with myself that I managed to get the tiny little circlip on the shaft with the gear on Jay's oil pump, got it first time with no issues.

Then I went to install it and realized one of the mounting screws goes behind the gear. :rolleyes:
 
Pulled the tank and resealed the petcock. No more leaks at the moment, fires right up. Made some clutch adjustments,and it seems to release. Hopefully tomorrow I can take it for a ride and fine tune the clutch. For those familiar with this clutch, should a soak be done or will it get enough oil just from initial running?
 
So - in the past, I have said that I will never build the same bike twice unless it is an FZ1 (had a bunch). I'm pretty close to another Benly that is local and painted in the most god awful purple.
 
I saw that purple one too, looked fun. I debated on it for a while but I need to finish a project before taking another. I honestly kinda like the purple... :)
 
Even if you wanted to leave it purple - it is a really bad paint job. Just from the low res pictures
 
prkrman said:
I saw that purple one too, looked fun. I debated on it for a while but I need to finish a project before taking another. I honestly kinda like the purple... :)
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Yeah, I already have 2 other winter projects - not even sure why I was looking at CL. But they are both bikes that are tough/expensive to get parts for, so this one will be a fill in - or maybe just get it running and buy a quart of MN viking purple and touch it up ;) The chop job on the front fender is "unique"
 
oldjeep said:
Yeah, I already have 2 other winter projects - not even sure why I was looking at CL. But they are both bikes that are tough/expensive to get parts for, so this one will be a fill in - or maybe just get it running and buy a quart of MN viking purple and touch it up ;) The chop job on the front fender is "unique"
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If I remember correctly, that one didn't have a title which is the main reason I passed on it. It's definitely destined for good hands though. :D

Air ducting for the tire? lol. I look at Facebook Marketplace too much, mainly for a good 350/360.
 
prkrman said:
If I remember correctly, that one didn't have a title which is the main reason I passed on it. It's definitely destined for good hands though. :D

Air ducting for the tire? lol. I look at Facebook Marketplace too much, mainly for a good 350/360.
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The title thing can be worked around pretty easy with about $400. So need to figure out what the budget is on this one, keeping the one that is done.
 
@ballbearian - you had some led replacement for neutral and gauge light ideas. Do they get hot at all? I was fixing a left turn kills engine issue and realized that the neutral rubber actually melted. It was an aftermarket 3d printed thing, but seller is not responding to if this is normal. The left turn issue was just a loose blade in the aftermarket harness.
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ballbearian said:
I use the Uxcell angled battery cable boots on amazon.

Amazon.com: uxcell Terminal Insulating Covers 12mm x 8mm 10 Pcs Black : Automotive

Buy uxcell Terminal Insulating Covers 12mm x 8mm 10 Pcs Black: Terminals & Ends - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
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Got the new (proper) kick starter on Saturday and installed that. The cable boots just showed up, so I'll pop one of those on later. Then hopefully the honda is done (again).
 
I didn't get around to trying to use one as the bulb boot last night. Will have to mess with that today.
 
6volt LED bulbs are a gamble. I've been using amazon BA9 bulbs so far so good and no problems with heat , more than the incandescent ones. John Pardue of the Pardue brothers finally has their website up and running and he has designed and had produced many 6volt specialty parts. His FB group, Honda 6 volt was the only way to find and order previously. I still haven't done the headlight.
I've considered using a small piece of aluminum HVAC tape inside the boot to help reflect more light up.
 
I just put the boot in, it fit well. No shortage of light, so maybe the bulb is stronger than advertised. I'll just remember to pop the headlight off next year after using it a bit and make sure the new stuff isn't melting.
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Finally took the CA95 for a first ride around the neighborhood. Starts up and runs well, brakes need a little adjustment. Unfortunately, I am only getting 1/N/2 and it didn't want to go into 3. Any obvious things to think about here? I would have sworn that I ran it through the gears on the bench.

Also sent the FZ750 down the road this morning with a new owner. Now I have a little more space to work
 
oldjeep said:
I am only getting 1/N/2 and it didn't want to go into 3. Any obvious things to think about here?
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Next time out, when in 2nd and trying to get into 3rd, lift up the shifter with your foot, but not enough to shift into 3rd. Then shift into 3rd. If this step works, you may be missing a small shift alignment bushing, I tried to get a clean pic but my carb clam is in the way. At the end of that bolt is a fitting to which a small double tapered bushing mounts. The "roller bushing" aligns the shift drum. Without that small bushing one gets erratic engaging while trying to change gears. I found a good pic off of eBay after posting my thoughts.
www.ebay.com

NOS 1959-1973 Honda CA95 CB92 CB160 CL160 Shift Drum Stopper Collar 24446-200-00 | eBay

Fits: 1959 Honda CA95 Benly Touring 150. Genuine Honda NOS shift drum stopper collar (24446-200-000), vital for the smooth operation of the transmission in various classic Honda motorcycles. Aprilia BMW Buell Can-Am Ducati Honda Suzuki Kawasaki Yamaha Triumph KTM Harley Davidson.
www.ebay.com
 

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Do you have to split the case to get at the bushing?
 
Nope. Easy fix. Just remove the bolt on top of the upper engine case as indicated. If the bushing is not on the end, check to see if the bushing is in the shift drum groove. No bushing then problem solved. Buy (or maybe a member has an extra) the bushing. Adhere the bushing onto the tiny shaft end of the bolt with thick grease and insert back into the case and wiggle the shifter to make sure the bushing is in the shift drum groove.
 
OK - so you are talking about the one circled in green - 1774876797841.png
 
oldjeep said:
OK - so you are talking about the one circled in green
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Yes. Remove and check for the bushing. If no bushing on its stem then look down the hole (iPhone camera pic of the hole works) to check if the bushing is in the shift drum groove. My bet is the bushing is missing. There is an outside possibility that the bushing is rusted and frozen to the bolt. If so, clean up everything up and reinstall. It's possible that the shifting issue may be that the assembly is rusted and the bushing can't rotate.
 
Definitely not rusted since I cleaned every piece of that engine. Pretty good bet that it is missing. I'll try to take a look at it this evening. Yesterday I was getting scoot parts ordered for my wifes acquisition. Pretty spendy stuff - $25 battery, $23 carb (kit cost as much as a new Chinese carb - and the original is a chinese carb), $8 solenoid and a couple glass fuses. Seems like it should run after that.
 
Being a curious sort, I took a couple minutes to realize how hard it is to get to that bolt and then found that the bushing was there. Good idea to check, but not my issue.
 
Always good to check the simple stuff 1st. I've been smitten by doing a deep dive first only to find the answer closer to the surface.
Another easy gamble is clutch adjustment. I remain keenly interested in the cause of your shifting issue.
 
Yes - which is another good question. After I changed the kick starter so it cleared the pipe, did I actually do the clutch adjustment per the manual - which I can't recall.
 
At the risk of scorn, I admit that I don't follow the manual. I loosen the slotted screw on the left side cover and turn the slotted screw as tight as I can get it, then lock down the 10mm nut.
I take up any slack at the point of entry in the case screw or at the clutch lever. While sitting on the bike, ignition off, I walk the bike off of the kick stand, engage the clutch and shift the bike into gear.
Can I push the bike? Yes, with some drag. Good. I shift into neutral, start the bike then pull in the clutch. Easy going into gear without feeling the bike moving? If so, engage 1st. Can I sit without pulling in 1st? Yes? Good. Go for a ride. Do I feel slip? Yes. Dial down the adjustment at the handlebar of cable entry to the engine. No slip when throttling up? Great. I take my time to get the feel right.
Maybe a clutch adjustment is all you need. That would be super.

My excuse for not following the manual is that these bikes are old, parts maybe worn or aftermarket.
 
Spokes said:
At the risk of scorn, I admit that I don't follow the manual. I loosen the slotted screw on the left side cover and turn the slotted screw as tight as I can get it, then lock down the 10mm nut.
I take up any slack at the point of entry in the case screw or at the clutch lever. While sitting on the bike, ignition off, I walk the bike off of the kick stand, engage the clutch and shift the bike into gear.
Can I push the bike? Yes, with some drag. Good. I shift into neutral, start the bike then pull in the clutch. Easy going into gear without feeling the bike moving? If so, engage 1st. Can I sit without pulling in 1st? Yes? Good. Go for a ride. Do I feel slip? Yes. Dial down the adjustment at the handlebar of cable entry to the engine. No slip when throttling up? Great. I take my time to get the feel right.
Maybe a clutch adjustment is all you need. That would be super.

My excuse for not following the manual is that these bikes are old, parts maybe worn or aftermarket.
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That is basically what I did. But I'll check the slack at the lever again. I did notice on the ride that the clutch wasn't letting go until it hit the grips - which may be normal, I was riding a race prepped FZ750 earlier that day before it went to the new owner. Clutch feel is a goofy thing between bikes
 
About time to start diving into the nothing above 2nd gear issue again. Fiddled with the clutch a bunch of different ways, lowered the exhaust a little so it wasn't rubbing on the shift lever pivot point.. Still just seems to not be able to find any gear above 2nd.
 
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