Wish I had figured it out before splitting the cases. The shifter arm was not sitting between both ends of the spring and was jamming on it so I couldn't get full movement of the shifter. (Fixed in this picture)
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CA95 project(s)
- Thread starter oldjeep
- Start date
PITA that it was, glad you figured it out.
Spokes
Veteran Member
I've been smitten with the fact that the early Honda's (can't speak for later years) can be assembled slightly incorrectly and still run. Congrats finding the cause of the restricted shift issue.
Running was definitely not an issue. Just getting out of second
Glad you got it sorted out and no damage done. I recently did a dry run on my Dream transmission to see if it would shift and it was jamming up. Despite all of the pictures I took during the disassembly, I managed to flip one of the gears and had it facing the wrong way 
. Once turned around everything shifted beautifully.
. Once turned around everything shifted beautifully.Short lived victory. Took it for a ride, had all the gears and then suddenly a noise and running on one cylinder. Can't find the nut or valve adjuster. .
Guess engine is coming out again. But first just going to find a cylinder, head and pistons.
Guess engine is coming out again. But first just going to find a cylinder, head and pistons.
Spokes
Veteran Member
With needle nose pliers, capture the top pin with one end and the clip at the other end. If the chain is oily, clean chain link dry.
So - exacto knife worked. Lucked out for the most part. It was not in the cylinder. Little boogered up, so it got banged in something. Still wondering why that cylinder had/has 65psi compression - unless the stud/nut was stuck somewhere. Given how little investment it takes to just put it all back together - will try that and see what happens. I can compression test with engine on bench easily enough.
The rocker arm was still pushing the valve open a little bit, allowing it to still function enough to make some compression.
If it ain't one thing, it's another.
Spokes
Veteran Member
I linked my battery drain on my 62 to the ignition switch. When I opened up the ignition switch, I found green corrosion and original 1962 grease. I cleaned up the contacts and lubed the switch lightly with fresh dielectric grease and reassembled it. For what it's worth, I have a .5 volt drop from the ignition switch to the battery when the bike is running at idle. I'm better at nuts & bolts than contacts and volts, so I don't know if a .5 volt drop means anything.
I keep my battery fully charged because I take frequent short rides, just to be on the safe side.
I keep my battery fully charged because I take frequent short rides, just to be on the safe side.