Brand New CDI for CB400T/CM400T/CM400E/CM400C/CB450SC

As I become more a sell out :)lol:) these are the boxes that will be going to DSS. Made up some labels myself. I think it looks quite good and whoever ends up getting the units from DSS will be satisfied.

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Status Update 08-12-2023:

Already down to one case. Next batch won't be available until September. If you want one now is the time!
 
STATUS UPDATE 09-01-2023:

Looks like the metal manufacturer was trying to get things done before the holiday so all 20 cases were ready for pickup 2-3 weeks ahead of schedule! They also have an additional 10 on hold so I won't be caught with my pants down when I run out. I have one to ship out for @gearsoup which I will be doing after the holiday. I'm going to slowly start making 10 of the 400Ts and 10 of the 400As and just keep it in stock to try and make things easier for everybody.
 
Interesting that it only shows as aftermarket CDI unit with no picture. Great start though.
 
The boxes were sealed with that reinforced scotch tape that has the lines in it so maybe they were hesitant to open it up for a picture. I will contact Ian to see if he wants a demo unit for pictures.
 
Looks as good as an original part. Congrats on getting your quality home-brew product to a major seller. Hopefully this means you have to ramp up production.
 
Yes, it's a basic redirect. At some point I'll have to look into moving the actual eCommerce software to Azure or somewhere similar. Paying for outright hosting from a .com provider is ridiculously expensive. I just wanted to be able to say "you can go to www.hondamaticparts.com".
 
Maraakate said:
Yes, it's a basic redirect. At some point I'll have to look into moving the actual eCommerce software to Azure or somewhere similar. Paying for outright hosting from a .com provider is ridiculously expensive. I just wanted to be able to say "you can go to www.hondamaticparts.com".
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With the lower traffic you'll get compared to what VHT is seeing now, a 3 year package on a shared server with our host would be a cheap way to get started.
 
I appreciate the offer, we can look into it at some point. I don't want to bite off more than I can chew with too many projects because of the baby.

I also forgot to mention, I have calculated the total price for a DC11-2 Ignition Coil with bracket, cables, caps, harness. Total price is $165 with Priority shipping to CONUS.

Subtract $120 from that total price if you don't need the ignition coil. Can go a bit cheaper if you just want 180 degrees on both ends and want to use a resistor plug instead. I'll add some additional options to the site over the next couple of days. I'm trying to work with dealers to see if I can get the ignition coil cheaper, but right now I'm buying it outright and not upcharging. The total price is everything at my cost. Only takes me about 20 minutes to assemble. Consider it a courtesy to the community here and a "loss leader". Too many bad aftermarket coils and setups out there. Nobody on a VHT deserves that!
 
I can probably get it cheaper through Azure as direct SQL instances and web apps and with changing DNS entries to point to that IP for the web app. I like total control over my servers. It can be cheaper, but it comes at a cost of zero support. Not really an issue for me.
 
Added "product variations" when buying a CDI. It will now ask you if it's 1978 year to choose between the bullet connector or the 2-pin canon plug for the blue/white wires. Adapter is no longer necessary, but still available for those that need it in the future.
 
I love turkey and Thanksgiving. With it getting colder out and winter projects getting underway I have added a coupon good for $230 shipped to CONUS for the CDIs. Use 'gobblegobble' at checkout.
 
I've been having some trouble with my hosting provider for the ecommerce page at hondamaticparts.com. Please reply here, PM me or email me at [email protected] (preferred) OR purchase from my eBay store: https://www.ebay.com/usr/HondamaticParts. Highly prefer NOT eBay as they take ridiculous fees. If you go through me direct you will receive an invoice from PayPal that is backed with buyer protection.
 
I hate to be a jerk, but it is finally happened. Someone (not here) bought a CDI from me more than a month ago and found out that it was a cheap ignition coil, never opened the packaging to my CDI, and then eBay forced me to do a return.

I will not accept CDI returns unless it is defects in workmanship. I know it sucks, but this is how OEMs and everyone else does it. For this exact reason. I have guides on this site and linked to on eBay for testing stuff. If you don't know if you need a CDI then please ask. I can help you, Jim can help you, plenty of people here can help you answer that question. If we can't answer it then you can always ship to me (at your expense) the entire ignition system for me to bench test.

A side note: I really dislike eBay for selling. Others here probably know, but the fees are insane and have been for years. Unfortunately it is where everyone goes when they look for a part so I have no choice. If you are potential customer reading this please contact me on the forums, email, or www.hondamaticparts.com if you want to buy one. I will sell it to you much cheaper than eBay price and everybody wins because it's still protected by PayPal business invoicing.
 
eBay has been notorious in the past few years to making sure sellers get shafted. They will no longer allow sellers to leave negative feedback to buyers (!). That's right, if a buyer gives you a bad experience (like this one) there's nothing you can do about it. eBay knows you need them to sell your things so you just deal with it. Put it to you this way, The amount eBay takes from anything I sell has to be priced way higher, which limits how many people would buy anything from me. I actually have piles of stuff, old computer equipment/software, that might be worth $20 here and there and I would love to sell it to someone who would enjoy it. But I'd actually make negative dollars just to sell it and ship the thing. So it sits in a corner in my house until one day I'll just throw this stuff in the garbage. It's not even worth my time to weigh it, make a box for it, take pictures, etc. to sell it for $35 FREE SHIPPING because everyone only cares about free shipping. Then after eBay fees I'll have lost money on it. It would actually sit for months anyways because people would know its worth $20, see the $35 and run but not factor in the free shipping.

Sorry for the soapbox, ok I'm done now.
 
My whole issue with what has happened on eBay recently to me is this... there is a wealth of information here to properly diagnose what is up with your ignition system on these bikes. We can guide you through it. We want you to diagnose what it is and not just be a parts replacer. Around here it's a different ethic as opposed to FB groups and reddit. I've had people who have found this thread or have registered here and haven't really posted to personally contact me and I spend weeks on a diagnosis for them and it ends up not being the CDI but the coil or kirk needs to rewind the stator, etc. And that's a "lost sale", but it's really not. They got it running, which is great as I love seeing people having these old bikes run and run well instead of just chopping them up into bobbers and theyre unreliable turds that get scrapped, and if the day comes that they need a CDI they know where to find me.
 
STATUS UPDATE 03-20-2025:

With spring coming up I am already starting to get emails and PMs for the CDIs. If you're on the fence about one now is this time. One thing I've noticed after doing this for a couple of years is people go to start their bikes in the spring and they quit sparking shortly thereafter.

PM me directly on the forums for $240 shipped USPSP Priority anywhere in the CONUS.
 
Maraakate said:
If you make it up here for a ride I'll sign it for you.

Didn't know you got it up and running now. Did you make a thread about it?
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I'd love to. Bedside duties keep me pinned down mostly but someday...
Still need to get the Mosfet fix done for the overcharging situation. Last ride in August was a blast.

VB21B pressed in idle jet orifice depth and other leaks and glitches

Due dilegence requires I check for burns or pitting and properly lubing the key switch contacts.
www.vintagehondatwins.com www.vintagehondatwins.com
 
ballbearian said:
I'd love to. Bedside duties keep me pinned down mostly but someday...
Still need to get the Mosfet fix done for the overcharging situation. Last ride in August was a blast.

VB21B pressed in idle jet orifice depth and other leaks and glitches

Due dilegence requires I check for burns or pitting and properly lubing the key switch contacts.
www.vintagehondatwins.com www.vintagehondatwins.com
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Send me a PM about that MOSFET. I might MAYBE have one sitting around that you can try out. I'm pretty sure I got one in a box of junk I pulled off a parts bike. If it's still overcharging you got some voltage drop issue somewhere or that red/white tracer wire is goofed. Which I mentioned before in that thread. Also, if you're using that MightyMax battery you like it's probably fine. I noticed they take overcharging just fine.
 
Maraakate said:
Send me a PM about that MOSFET. I might MAYBE have one sitting around that you can try out. I'm pretty sure I got one in a box of junk I pulled off a parts bike. If it's still overcharging you got some voltage drop issue somewhere or that red/white tracer wire is goofed. Which I mentioned before in that thread. Also, if you're using that MightyMax battery you like it's probably fine. I noticed they take overcharging just fine.
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Already bought a mosfet from Sparcks. I thought I had the red/white checked out but maybe it is internally corroded, even though I had checked resistance. I could just replace it for kicks and see what happens. Voltage drop remains a mystery to me, I thought I'd checked all possible culprits (in the thread). Last job was replacing the crusty headlamp connectors, but it's still putting out way over 14.5 volts, while riding. The mightymax gel AGM sat for a couple weeks, after last ride, and still showed 13.5 volts, which is really too high.
 
ballbearian said:
and still showed 13.5 volts, which is really too high.
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If it stands up under load I wouldn't be concerned, 13.5v is a little high for a typical battery but it isn't out of the potential limits. Both of my lithium-based batteries hold over 13v, typically 13.3
 
ancientdad said:
If it stands up under load I wouldn't be concerned, 13.5v is a little high for a typical battery but it isn't out of the potential limits. Both of my lithium-based batteries hold over 13v, typically 13.3
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I gotta be honest Bill, whatever the issue is it's probably not worth ripping the entire harness apart. It's a bit high, but I don't think the gel battery is ready to explode at any given moment.

You did the essential voltage drop tests at the key switch which is where it usually comes from. You put a new reg/rec combo on there and it made no difference. So, we know it's not those two things. However, the 6-pin the reg/rec goes into might need some help. They usually do. If you want to get crazy, I have a lot of crimp connectors leftover from the stuff I do. On my own bikes I personally go through and extract every single terminal connector then trim back until the wire is no longer corroded/green and crimp a new terminal connector on. Then everything gets dielectric grease, including backfilling the terminal blocks. That would solve your issue. If you don't mind spending a day or two on it, then let me know I can ship it to you for free in an envelope.
 
Err, I meant to say Tom. Saw "ballbearian" and my mind scrambled bill at the front of it and here we are. My apologies!
 
Maraakate said:
Thanks to a kind donation from Jim I received 5 broken CDI units as was able to use these to successfully reverse engineer the CB400/CM400 manual series CDI.

CURRENT STATUS 08-07-2024:

Ready for your order. Direct contact via PM, E-Mail or direct order though Hondamaticparts.com preferred.


Special 20% discount for VHT Forum Members. Use code 'VHTMembers' at checkout!

  • Total price is $300 shipped to the US. International customers please E-Mail me to discuss options. Current lead time is 2 weeks as each one is built individually by me and tested dynamically with an actual stator/rotor.
  • DSS now has it available. You can get it here with your weekly DSS fix via this direct link or searching manually for the part number: https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB450SC-NIGHTHAWK-1985-USA/part_392654/. I've informed DSS that it fits other models, so it should show up for CM400T/E/C, CM450E, and CB450SC. If it doesn't please let me know so they can fix it.
    It should be showing up for other model years, if it's not let me know so they can fix it.
  • Kits are discontinued due to user error. If you can convince me that you're competent and understand there is zero warranty/support then send me a PM. I will only offer this for VHT members.

You can order the complete plug and play unit here. Other ordering options include my ebay store https://www.ebay.com/usr/HondamaticParts, David Silver Spares, direct PM on VHT, or via E-Mail.

I have had a few questions elsewhere as to why the cost is what it is. The metal case, which bolts up the same as the original is high quality and manufactured locally. It's even thicker gauge than the original and slightly taller to allow more room for the components, reducing stress on them.

I take no compromises on the quality of this unit. Each CDI is hand assembled by me, with high quality automotive rated components and Japanese Nichicon capacitors, just like the original. The harness uses high quality components from Matt over at Vintage Connections/Sparck Moto. This is not cheap junk, it will last as long as, if not longer, than the original unit. I personally use it on my own bike and wouldn't settle for anything less.

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Original thread:
I've started to work on one that had the wires already cut close to the grommet. This time I tried a different strategy of using a 1000w heat gun and slowly breaking apart the potting compound. Once the top was exposed, went around the corners with a brass chisel to expose the PCB ends. Then heated the back of the unit for about 2 minutes and was able to lift it out. From here I have been able to clean up the back of the PCB for the traces.

Some interesting notes compared to the CM400A CDI (at least in this revision): The wires are all arranged in a "bus" like format so they're all right in one spot. On the 400A CDI they go wherever so wire lengths vary. There are 3 through holes that are not connected to anything. Unsure of the schematic, but may have been leftovers from the 400A safety lockouts or this board is also used in other models from the same era with additional safety features. The board is larger than the 400A CDI PCB but is much more simplified. There are 4 film capacitors on this board, compared to 2 on the 400A CDI. This PCB also had a plastic piece for protecting shorting out the PCB on the metal case. The 400A CDIs I've taken apart it appears they poured a few mm's of potting compound, waited for it to flash off, then laid the PCB down and finished pouring the rest.

Ignore the bubble on the large main cap, that's from the heat gun.

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Going out to get virgin paint thinner from autobody supplier to help remove the rest. Though, with this board I'm going to try this different approach and it may not be necessary. I see there is silkscreening with japanese characters on the board. I have friends who can read Japanese and can probably translate it. I'd like to see what it says.
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I will definitely buy one this year as a spare (Hondamatic)...thanks for your hard work on these
 
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