Black Friday - a red 1965 CB160

Thank you, I'm hopeful. After reading a few long 160 threads, including one 40 pages long over on ADVrider, I'm convinced this project won't be a big hurdle. Plus I probably already have all of the parts needed. I just need to continue with serveral suggestions I'd already received.
 
I'm ready to get back to this bike. I've been setting up and organizing my dedicated storage unit workshop for a few weeks now and the time to begin again is getting closer.
Forecast calls for rain all week so the parts will remain where they are in the attic until I catch a break in the weather.
 
Alan F. said:
I'm ready to get back to this bike. I've been setting up and organizing my dedicated storage unit workshop for a few weeks now and the time to begin again is getting closer.
Forecast calls for rain all week so the parts will remain where they are in the attic until I catch a break in the weather.
Click to expand...
Good to see you getting back to it Alan. (y)
 
This is the day I resume this project. While all manner of yummy smells are happening in the kitchen I've been bringing boxes of parts from the 4th floor attic down to my little truck to be hauled to my little storage unit workspace.
 
Yes it is, but every space I've had has been similarly small. At least I have my plywood work table, while not a lift it's just the right height and I can get to both sides. There's also a steel beam above so I can use ratchet straps to hoist if needed. And there's a power outlet nearby too.
I had the unit across the hall for 14 years at my last job, the place is conveniently located and not too busy, and I know what I can get away with there.
 
I have that same table, and the damn thing is HEAVY! I do not enjoy wrestling it around. And putting a CB450 engine on it overwhelmed its capacity. I had to reattach the top to the frame with bolts that went through the top, rather than the screws that were on it originally. Your engine should be light enough to avoid that collapse. Anyway, get started and who knows what happens after that?
 
@wentwest do you mean the banquet table? Yeah that wouldn't be my choice for engine work plus it belongs to my Girlfriend... I'd put it up on my plywood work table, 2 layers of 3/4" with lots of glue and screws, it's a tank and has supported both of my CB750 engines at one time. It cost under $100 total when my Son and I build it several years ago, I'd hate to think about what I would cost today. Link: https://dropbarscinder.blogspot.com...:00&max-results=20&start=12&by-date=false&m=0
 
Today I spent a few hours with this project. I've organized a 10x10 storage unit as a work shop. So armed with a pizza and a few beverages...

I mounted the swing arm, passenger foot pegs, and shocks, then strapped the frame to my bench.

Next up I installed tapered roller steering bearings and added the top triple.

After that I had a new idea to try for disassembling these forks. I removed the jaws from my old bench vise and found a bolt to fit the threaded holes. I cut two lengths and filed one end of each to a point, about 60 degrees. Threading one into each opposed hole, I was able to use the vise as a pin spanner, while I wrapped a rag around the fork lower and gripped gently with a large pair of channel-lock pliers. I was fairly amazed at how easily the chrome caps broke loose from the steel fork lowers, I didn't even need to try the second set of holes. Same with the other fork, it was just amazing.
After disassembling I noticed the fork bushings were in really good shape, no way did they have 18,xxx miles on them. I'll clean everything up and replace the seals next shop day.

Some pics:
1000015065.jpg1000015067.jpg1000015068.jpg1000015073.jpg1000015072.jpg1000015071.jpg

And this was a bit of a surprise but it looks like these fork springs have progressive windings, tighter coils at one end than the other. Thoughts?
1000015069.jpg1000015070.jpg
 
Great idea with the vice pins. I just used a long lug nut car wrench through the axle mount to twist it. I didn't even change seals, only new 15wt fork oil and it worked great. Can't remember which way the springs went, it may not matter much. Great progress.
 
I have been reading some about the orientation of progressive fork springs, including another thread here on VHT. It is pointed out there that the tighter windings naturally make that end of the spring more dense, so the orientation of the spring affects the unsprung mass of the front suspension. This leads to a trade-off between handling/traction and vibration absorption.
  • The spring compresses the same amount regardless of orientation. This does not mean overall performance is the same.
  • Orienting the tight coils downward leads to more vibration isolation for the rider at the expense of a loss in traction/handling.
  • Orienting the tight coils upward should provide better traction/handling at the expense of reduced vibration isolation.
  • The tighter coils compress more than the looser coils and if they are immersed in the fork oil, they may cause aeration, which could alter the damping of the forks.
I think the final decision comes down to a rider/builder preference and may not make much of a practical difference in many cases, but that would depend a lot on the particular springs being used.
 
Alan F. said:
My RE Interceptor 650 has the tighter coils at the bottom at the rear shocks, coil ID prevents flipping them over too.
Click to expand...
The rear shocks on my XL350 have tighter coils down also. A variety of factors come into play in design, e.g., the swingarm adds a lot of mass to the rear suspension and makes the change in mass distribution due to the springs less significant than with the forks. The springs also have no interaction with the damping fluid in the rear.

I doubt I could notice a difference either way, but I'm guessing there are people who can.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom