1971 SL350

Juneaudave said:
Happy Days! I got my cylinder head back from Schumann Motor Works and it looks like new!
Click to expand...

I am curious as to what parts he replaced on your cylinder head. If you don't mind sharing that info, did he replace valves, springs, guides, seats, none of the above?

Thanks
 
Chris called me when he started the work to make sure that we were on the same page and to ask if I wanted any performance upgrades He indicated that the valves and everything looked good. I asked him to do his standard service as I just wanted to be sure the cylinder head was in good shape for the rebuild. Im sure a person could give him a call on specifics. He is very easy to talk to.

Anyway, I believe the service included complete disasembly, cleaning and inspection of all of the cylinder head components. Visually I can see that the ports and head were bead blasted and the valves were cleaned up. The valve seats and valve faces were renewed/polished. The head has new blue viton seals, and it looks to me that the cylinder head was resurfaced. I believe his standard service includes final vacuum testing for leaks.
 
Frame painting today. Have the frame hanging from the drywall lift so I can adjust height and rotate to get best light. I'm trying the DeVilbliss deKups system on my gun. DeKups uses a disposible flexible liner instead of a rigid cup. It allows a person to get at different angles in tight spaces like a frame.

64Gd1Oe.jpg


G4nD9oA.jpg
 
Two coats of Omni 170 epoxy primer reduced with 1/2 part acetone makes a good base. In my gun and on a frame, the acetone makes the epoxy lay down enough that I feel I can go ahead and shoot color wthout a bunch of sanding.

YObxTPn.jpg
 
It looks very nice. And you certainly did a thorough job creating a painting area that's got space and good light.
 
First coat of Marbles cloud silver. Its hard to see against the epoxy grey as it is going down. Two light coats will be plenty and I'll finish off with Spraymax 2K clear this afternoon.

JSGBxEI.jpg
 
Yet another question (I should know but I can't remember). I've set the end gap on the rings and have started setting the rings onto the pistons. The tops of the compression rings are marked, but for the life of me, I can't remember which compression ring goes on top and which is second. One has a chrome face and the second is black.

gyGI4Oy.jpg
 
I was a little hesitant to repaint the tins as the finish looked "ok" for a 50 year old. Turns out this bike got some bondo at some time, but I sure couldn't see it as I was just positive the paint was original. I can't imagine the damage to this fender was such that a person would repaint it, or even touch it up...makes me wonder is the factory ever used bondo or what the story was? What's that song? "Every fender tells a story" Rod Steward

72iC7ra.jpg
 
Devastating setback!!! I was happily putting together my engine today with the NOS cam and whammo....this happened while torqueing the second cam gear bolt. Fortunately (I guess) I got all the pieces (big sigh):sad:

Hg7M2UF.jpg
 
Well that's ugly. A couple (stupid) questions not at all intended to insult you: you're SURE it was a NOS cam? and, you did remember to put the shouldered bolt in the hole designed for it, right? Because that will happen if you put the shouldered bolt in the non-shouldered hole.
 
What an absolute bummer - I can imagine the sick feeling when that broke.
I’ve seen this breakage discussed on other threads - that person tried to repair the broken bit, but it failed pretty much straight away.
Hang in there - a setback for sure, but you will get past it.
Cheers
Mike
 
I was pretty sure it was NOS, but I could have switched the bolts up...I thought I put the shouldered bolt in first nearest to the L. I don't know...that seems like the only explaination.
 
Juneaudave said:
I was pretty sure it was NOS, but I could have switched the bolts up...I thought I put the shouldered bolt in first nearest to the L. I don't know...that seems like the only explaination.
Click to expand...

As to the NOS question, I only ask because the term NOS has gotten out of control in the usage on eBay by sellers who think because a part is super clean and still shiny they can pass it off as one. Either way it sucks, sorry to see it happen.
 
Well this sucks big time.
I'm sure it is an NOS cam because the point drive pin was missing, new cam don't come with it. That and there was no evidence of being reground since the base circle was in new spec.
Good news is that a skinny cam from a CB or CL K3 or later can be reground to the SL profile now that we have the master at Oregon Cam.
 
If that was the result of the wrong bolt in the wrong hole, then I for one would like to donate to the Dave Cam Fundraiser. You may have taught me a valuable lesson and that's worth something!

See sometimes there is a bright side :)

Where do I donate?
 
ausman1000 said:
If that was the result of the wrong bolt in the wrong hole, then I for one would like to donate to the Dave Cam Fundraiser. You may have taught me a valuable lesson and that's worth something!

See sometimes there is a bright side :)

Where do I donate?
Click to expand...

Ha! Can't have the masses bailing out my stupidity! Seems like there are some options here and this is nowhere near the most costly mistake that I have made! Life goes on!
 
ancientdad said:
As to the NOS question, I only ask because the term NOS has gotten out of control in the usage on eBay by sellers who think because a part is super clean and still shiny they can pass it off as one. Either way it sucks, sorry to see it happen.
Click to expand...

I have noticed this to. The other common one is NOS combined with the term 'shelf wear'. If an item has 'wear' be it from being knocked around on a shelf then that is not my definition of new.
 
Do you know an expert welder that can do a weld with cast iron rod,or Tig weld those 2 small pieces back on ?
 
bilbikek411 said:
Do you know an expert welder that can do a weld with cast iron rod,or Tig weld those 2 small pieces back on ?
Click to expand...
It will take someone with experience is welding cast iron and even then it may fail. Then faced off on a lathe.
The good point is that this ear is for clamping pressure whereas the shoulder bolt ear is where the rotational load takes place.
 
Sorry to hear about this, definitely not what you want to have happen but unexpected things happen on these journeys. I have been following your thread with great interest because my first bike was just like yours and I have one in the garage waiting to be done. Looking forward to future progress!
 
LongDistanceRider said:
Well this sucks big time.
I'm sure it is an NOS cam because the point drive pin was missing, new cam don't come with it. That and there was no evidence of being reground since the base circle was in new spec.
Good news is that a skinny cam from a CB or CL K3 or later can be reground to the SL profile now that we have the master at Oregon Cam.
Click to expand...

Jim....I'm not sure I understand all the ins and outs of a regrind....Can a 286 cam (i.e. say a 14101-286-070 from a 72 CL350 K4) be ground to the K1 312 profile? And is there enough metal on the CL 350 286 cam to preserve the original 312 lift and duration?
 
Juneaudave said:
Jim....I'm not sure I understand all the ins and outs of a regrind....Can a 286 cam (i.e. say a 14101-286-070 from a 72 CL350 K4) be ground to the K1 312 profile? And is there enough metal on the CL 350 286 cam to preserve the original 312 lift and duration?
Click to expand...
I'm almost 100% sure but I'm going to go ask Ken to be positive later today. I'll let you know the answer.
 
OK, they say it shouldn't be any problem to regrind the SL profile onto a CB/CL cam as long as it's a skinny cam. Base circle would only be ground down to clean up any damage as far as they can tell beforehand.
 
Yendor said:
Would it still be usable as a MASTER for a sample to have Cams either made or reground?
Click to expand...
Yes it can be used to make another master. Making a master is similar to cutting keys, it's an exact copy of the original but made with a special tool steel. That's why they need new cams preferably or extremely low miles used ones because any deviations from wear will be copied onto the master and subsequently to any cams ground using said master.
 
I'm putzing around today and getting ready to prime the RetroCB covers. A couple things have come up.

First...I had ordered a set of new grommets off ebay. When they arrived, it was apparent that they were hard and didn't fit well. I had picked the cheapest ones thinking they should work fine. So I tossed them and reordered grommets from 4into1. The 4into1 set were soft, pliable and fit well.

Next I did a test fit on the RetroCB covers to make sure I could get them on and off easily. Turns out, this set needed a little tuning on the tabs. I found the best tool to use was a felt pad on the dremel with a little rouge to ease the plastic tabs a bit. Everything fits good now so I can go ahead and prime.

On a side note, I have RetroCB covers on my CL and they did not need any work. To prime the covers, I'll just use some Barkeepers Friend to give them a good scrubbing and cleaning, followed by scruffing them up with a red scotchbrite pad. For primer, I used the Transtar 4603 primer (good for plastic parts). On my CL two years ago, I haven't seen any issues using the Transtar after 3000 miles.

R2Cx7oE.jpg
 
Good tips on the sidecovers Dave, anything that can be done to improve the longevity of these things is helpful. My father and I used to put a small film of white grease on the tabs to keep them lubed up just enough to make removal safe. I see a tube of what looks like it in the first pic.

The bike is coming along very nicely.
 
Update on the neverending cam journey (or how I spent my budget on one part)....

After my self made camshaft disaster, I purchased a cam for a 1972 CB (14101-286-070) off eBay for $38 plus $15.50 shipping. It arrived yesterday and I thought it looked pretty good overall (some light pitting on one lobe). So, after talking to Ken at Oregon Cam, I sent it on to Vancouver, Wa ($12.55 postage) to see if in fact they could grind it to the SL350 K1 profile (14101-312-040). The conversation with Ken was interesting as I got the sense the cam numbers were meaningless, but I think he understood what I was looking for. Anyway, the cam should get there Thursday.

So...for a total of $64.05 thus far, I'm going to see if Oregon Cam Grinding can come through for me.

8miPTGv.jpg
 
I looked at their note cards regarding each cam profile, no notations of Honda's part numbers. For their purposes those numbers are meaningless, base circle determines fat and skinny.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
I looked at their note cards regarding each cam profile, no notations of Honda's part numbers. For their purposes those numbers are meaningless, base circle determines fat and skinny.
Click to expand...

So in Oregon Camshaft speak, I want cam ground to the profile of the master with the 33.2 base and 39.1 base plus lobe. That would be the master that they made in February.
 
Juneaudave said:
So in Oregon Camshaft speak, I want cam ground to the profile of the master with the 33.2 base and 39.1 base plus lobe. That would be the master that they made in February.
Click to expand...
No, actually you'd say "I want this cam ground to the SL350K1 K2 profile".
They have 3 note cards, CB/CL 350 small base circle, CB/CL350 large base circle and SL350 K1 K2. That keeps it simple for them with the only oddity being the 050 cam which looks like a skinny cam but has the fat cam base circle(small) and profile.
 
Prepping the tins for epoxy primer today. Not so sure about the aluminum fenders, but I understand that they start oxidizing immediately so you need to sand and get primer on them right away. I'm planning on using Omni 170 epoxy, followed by a urethane primer for sand out, then base, candy and clear. The base and candy are from VMR Paints.

T0F75Ok.jpg
 
LongDistanceRider said:
What's the cure time for the primer?
Click to expand...

15 minutes for a single coat, 30 minutes for two coats. You need to skuff the piece up and reapply after three days, but I'll go ahead and shoot the urethane primer right away as it is so much easier to sand out and prepare for the base. I'm a little leary of making sure the paint sticks to the aluminum fenders, I hope the epoxy does the trick.
 
Two coats of the silver base, two coats of the candy topaz orange and two coats clear. I stopped at two coats of the candy to try and get the silver metel flake to show through better, I don't know... The decals I bought call for a week of cure time before I put them on. So after a week or so, I'll color sand out any orange peel, put the decals on, and clear over them.


HKot1q5.jpg


CbNDQdQ.jpg


phpP6GV.jpg


exjVkFt.jpg
 
Well, from my computer screen the color looks great and I'm sure in the sun it will show the silver flake underneath. Nice work, it's going to look enviable. And I already envy you, though if it were mine that color would have been candy RED. :)
 
Juneaudave said:
Two coats of the silver base, two coats of the candy topaz orange and two coats clear. I stopped at two coats of the candy to try and get the silver metel flake to show through better, I don't know... The decals I bought call for a week of cure time before I put them on. So after a week or so, I'll color sand out any orange peel, put the decals on, and clear over them.
Click to expand...

Beautiful work! Your cases look very good too, and I know you said you used Randy Marbles' paint for that. Is this paint also sourced from Marbles Motors?

Ray
 
fxray said:
Beautiful work! Your cases look very good too, and I know you said you used Randy Marbles' paint for that. Is this paint also sourced from Marbles Motors?

Ray
Click to expand...

This is VMR Paints base and candy. https://vmrpaints.com/

I think the tint is ok, but it's so hard to tell without an original to look at. Most of the candy topaz orange bikes that I've seen close up were pretty faded out pretty badly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom