I have had access to online manuals, but I do not have a physical copy, yet. I would like to get one. I’ve seen difference brands Clymer etc. I’m assuming acquiring one from the original creators themselves would be the best bet.
Or he can get one of the few things those guys in Houston offers (and for FREE) that is worth having, their FSMs... you know, the ones they have but don't follow.
I have never done electrical wiring before, but i am up for the task. I didn’t know I’d be getting my electrician apprenticeship working on this bike haha. I agree that’s it’s best to be done right the first time, so that I’m not hunting down electrical gremlins later..
I've always just used a fine pick for pushing the tiny lock tab back for extraction from the plug blocks but a nice crimper (instead of generic automotive type) would be a nice treat. I always solder mine now as well as my crude crimps. Maraakate is an electrical whiz so he does things right. I'd go with his recommendation on what to get and ancientdad really knows these DOHC 450's.
The horn actually works! I couldn’t believe it. That’s the last thing I suspected to be operating correctly. It sounded like a dying goose with a low battery but sounds fine now with a charged one.
If you want to refurbish your vintage tailight these may have some possibilities.
I bought some 9mm for a speedo project that I never finished, or maybe they were 7mm. They are cheap but look like they'll work. Shame to trash a vintage one just because the socket is rotten.
First I'd try to clean up the old one with a worn small dremel green scotchbite wheel on a 15mm one.
Can't just post a few pictures of different angles showing the rust/corrosion?
The rust/corrosion is under the bulb, settled in the socket. I was going to video trying to turn the bulb to show the motion that it’s “stuck” in. And also to show how the hair wire is hanging on for dear life under the bulb. I can add pictures as well.
I hear you, but a bulb rusted in a socket is actually pretty common. After the bulb breaks loose from the metal base, you typically end up using a pair of pliers to remove the base of the bulb, clean up the rust on the contacts inside and use some dielectric grease to keep the rust from returning when you put a new bulb in. Worst case scenario the socket is too rusted to use and you replace the turn signal assembly if the socket can't be replaced (been too long, can't recall if they're replaceable). I actually have a few turn signals lying around from my 450 that I'll never use, in case you need one.
I have not tried to take any action yet, as far as breaking the glass on the bulb or taking the assembly apart. If nothing can get figured out, I’ll probably end up contacting you about one of those turn signals!
Just to be clear, I didn't mean intentionally breaking the glass part of the bulb, but when the bulb is rusted in the socket it usually ends up happening. I usually just twist the glass part loose (and if it's stubborn, ALWAYS use a rag or heavy gloves over the glass in case it breaks) and then take needle nose pliers to twist the base of the bulb loose in the socket. Remember, the bulb goes in and makes a slight turn to the right to latch when clean and working properly, so you'll want to push inward slightly and try to turn to the left when you're breaking it loose to remove the remnant.
The other three turn signal bulbs act as they should. Gently push, turn, bulb out. This one is stuck. Would wd40 help?
I’ve always heard that joke, “how many “x” does it take to change a light bulb?” This situation definitely applies. AD’s offer of a turn signal is feeling pretty tempting. 4into1 sells affordable turn signal reproductions, but staying OEM will be the goal for this one.
A lot, maybe more. Truthfully yours is average or better compared to the stuff I get. When they're dry there is always oxidative matrimony. That's why the WD (my bud calls it Wanker Douche) is called for. I finally started buying it by the gallon and use a pumper can. I won't touch a bolt with wrench without a shot. Shines old chrome good too.
And this is exactly why a simple picture describes what you were unfamiliar with and trying to describe. When you first mentioned the wire as "it’s literally connected by a hair", my first impression was you meant the bulb glass had already come loose from the metal base and the tiny wires connecting the filament were what you were trying to describe. That's the ground wire that came loose in the picture because the turn signals are mounted in rubber grommets, which means the bulb situation is not as dire as described in words. So spray copious amounts of penetrant around the bulb base and keep working it, and you can solder the ground wire back on later if the socket is repairable.
After an absurd amount of WD40 and 15 mins of soaking, it still needed some motivation with pliers.
Thanks for these pointers and tips. Upon looking at the turn signal diagram. I think mine are missing the gasket. Also, I see that the turn signal bulbs are single filament “Stanley 1073 (12v23w)”. Instead of ordering some, my local autozone has these in stock. Would be curious if they would work fine.
Thanks for pointing that out! I’ll be going over the FSM here in a little bit.Take a look at the valve adjusters. Three of them are visible at all times and the fourth is under the points cover (left exhaust). There is an indicator on the adjuster that should always point away from the spark plugs (forward on exhaust side, backwards on intake side). The picture below comes from the FSM and will help you identify the marks.
Those are very kind offers. I couldn’t decide if I wanted to spend the $$
It's nice of you to think that way, but I wouldn't offer it if I felt I needed it for my strategic reserve. Same goes for the rear signals. I got the parts bike primarily for engine parts and have already given away quite a few other pieces that I don't need.
Could this be evidence that I’ll need a new cam chain down the road? Any way to “inspect” this residue to see what it is?
Just try wiping it off first, it almost looks like paint but that's not likely.
Somewhere there is a Hack-man salivating over getting ahold of that good condition harness to slash it up. Haha.
