I've always thought the older bikes with polished switches looked nice and while you're at it, you may as well make the levers and perches match. Tough day on the polishing wheel ahead, LOLThose look great. Now I'm going to have to buff my levers and switches, sheesh, more work
Used both on the good Allan head bolt. The issue as I noted even with the upper fork tube compressed the inner tube and the Allen head bolt are spinning and not releasing. I have pretty well pushed the upper tube well into the slider with a hydraulic jack. It should be enough to lock up the system and release it but nothing?
Great. I drilled the head off the one fork Allan head bolt. So your saying the slider will come apart with that Allan head bolt attached to the internals? That is different that what I have encountered with more modern forks that require the removal of the bolt to remove the slider.
Getting them back in is easy. Push a broom handle in it when you tighten - same with old Kawasaki's. This is assuming that you clean up the threads before re-assembly, which is a must on even modern fork cartridges/bolts.
I just PM'd a member to see if that chrome cover can be removed to allow shallower access to the seal. You are either patient, or not too serious about getting them apartI'm in the same boat as you. I have two sets of the aluminum lower forks- one is apart (not by me) and I'm still trying to get the other set apart to use the sliders from the set that's taken apart in the set that is not yet apart. I've got the same issue where the Allen bolts on the bottom of my legs are both stripped out- but I was told you don't actually have to get those out for the forks to come apart. I guess it does help to get those top chrome trim pieces off the lowers, and from there it's just a matter of digging the seal out and / or using some other method to get that seal to budge... I've been staring at this problem for a good six months and I just keep wanting to not deal with it lol.
So I'll be taking cues from you once you figure out a good way to get them apart
Yeah the chrome piece can come off- whether or not you are really supposed to take them off is questionable.I just PM'd a member to see if that chrome cover can be removed to allow shallower access to the seal. You are either patient, or not too serious about getting them apart
The Allan bolts don't have to be removed, so leave them alone. That chrome trim ring was pressed on during manufacturing and it also may not be a piece to remove easily without damage.
He cut through the top of the seal close to the outer edge at 12-3-6-9 o'clock and then opened the holes a little larger with the pick tool. Two slide hammer type bumps holding the upper tube in the vice and it was out.
Oh no harshness detected at all!Ok didn't mean to sound harsh there in the last post.
I suspect the chrome trim ring didn't look great after removal. They are not supposed to be removed was the answer I got from Mike. On the aluminum leg you have the slider is apart so your halfway there.
Paul used a flex shaft driven electric tool with a double cut carbide burr about 1/8" diameter. I held the fork and the flashlight doing the heavy lifting.
I did repaint the lower sliders in Joe's mini indoor paint booth a few days ago, so they look good again. Once I get the second gaiter I can install the front forks.
That looks my sock drawer….. where there is supposed to be a pair I can only find one!!Well I didn't read the for sale instructions on DSS for the fork gaiters.
So I received only one of the gaiters. Try again! The second one is now on order, so I will eventually have a matched set.
I ordered a new head gasket again. The aftermarket old gasket set I bought has been a disappointment. Non of the gaskets are fresh, so something to consider when buying a 50 year old gasket set. The holes are not well aligned for the parts with some adjustments needed. The head gasket would not fit the studs without some filing of the one outer hole. I then realized the head gasket was about .5mm thicker than the one that was on there. Since the rear two outer studs are oil feed holes to the top end there are two green Viton O rings that seal the area. The O rings are 1.5mm thick and the replacement head gasket was 1.95mm thick. The head gasket on there when I took the motor apart was 1.3mm thick.
I was concerned that even when squished the thicker head gasket may not allow those sealing O rings to seal correctly. There was also so very slight corrosion on the fire rings on this head gasket too. For the sake of $45.00 Canadian it wasn't worth a roll of the dice. I will eat the cost.
A note to self. "Don't buy anymore 50 year old aftermarket gasket kits."
Forks with one gaiter. The good news is the new gaiter fits both the lower slider and the upper headlight bracket perfectly.
View attachment 52835Ets
I have bought two NOS old gasket sets in the last few years. No more for me!That looks my sock drawer….. where there is supposed to be a pair I can only find one!!
Also thanks for the comments on NOS gasket sets. I was leaning toward NOS for my cl160D project but you have convinced me otherwise.
Troy,
Those are older paint cans from 4-5 years ago. So DupliColor may have changed the graphics on their latest products. The SKU numbers haven't changed on the Canadian products for many years now though.
I meant color on the engine. Duplicolor kinda sucks compared to VHT in terms of how it sticks. It is definitely not the same stuff. They have same parent company, but the Duplicolor tends to be the - I can't sell VHT markets.
There are 6 other small parts that make up this complete assembly. Of course 50% were missing in the parts bags. So CMSNL to the rescue, as they had every missing part at a reasonable price. I was able to find quite a few missing pieces from many areas of this bike at both CMSNL and DSS.
Except that isn't Chris Crawford above, this is - @ChrisCrawford
Gadzooks, yet ANOTHER Chris Crawford! There's a Chris Crawford master knife maker in Arkansas, a Chris Crawford professional basketball player, a Chris Crawford in jail for murder in Pennsylvania, a Chris Crawford computer game designer, and a Chris Crawford realtor in Maryland. I won't tell you which one I am because the warden will revoke my computer privileges if I do.
The fork in the parts fiche is a steel fork I believe not the aluminum one. I checked the 1968 CL175KO Sloper which has the aluminum fork lower. It does show the wheel spacer on the right hand axle which this bikes uses. I am unsure how the speedo drive is affixed permanently when the axle is tightened. It rotated with the wheel when I torqued the axle. I can’t see the speedometer cable outer is the holder/stopper to hold it in place?
