Spring seat refurbish - Dream, CA77

ballbearian

ballbearian

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After looking what these seats go for, in decent shape, I bought a cheap, rusty, bent but intact one to re-do. Here is is before tear down, I did have to grind the tiny nuts off the chrome trim strip screws and seat strap bolts too (as they were peened over).

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The hooked pick worked best for minimal straightening of the pointy teeth holding the cover on. I've learned to be gentle with them because they can break off pretty easy and that would make for more work to come up with a way to replace them.

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Pretty messy with all the crumbling foam rubber that falls out. I tried to save the contoured curved pieces that can give shape to the 1 inch new foam slab that will go over top and are not crumbling. There were 3 layers in this seat but I might only need one to give a good shape. The stiff plastic sheet against the springs was, of course, a goner.

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Time to straighten the frame and order another cover and a slab of upholstery foam. I've used "firm" density foam which is somehow rated at 44lbs. vs. "medium density" at 36lbs. seems to feel about right.

If the saved foam rubber, that has the nice contour starts to crumble, then I'll resort to shaping a gardeners kneeling pad (about 1" thick) with my sanding angle grinder, to use as a base layer and to give contour.

To cover the springs I'll use some salvage vinyl/foam composite gymnasium flooring that I was given a large roll of. It seems perfect.


So, $85 for the old seat, $43 for a new cover from ebayer gumtwo, $20 for upholstery foam and maybe $15 for chrome edge trim if the original doesn't cut it.

$168 total (or less) ain't bad since ebay ballpark was $300 and up.

We'll see how this one turns out, the last one I did is really comfortable.
 
I've got plenty of this gym floor spring covering layer to do probably 10 seats at least. I cut a 10" x 24" chunk for a dream or probably most any spring style 60's seat, so if any member here wants a hunk, pay for shipping and I'll send one for free. It's about a 1/2" thick and maybe twice as dense as a gardener's kneeling pad.

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Here is what is inside before I wrestle the cover on. The frame got straightened and the base layer against the springs is trimmed with a sander disc.

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There were four 1/2" layers originally. The two near the bottom were either crumbling or torn from the springs cutting through. I kept the two top layers with a bit of edge trimming just so It had that curve on the top.

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The new foam is 1 inch thick and with the bottom layer added, I figured it would be close to the original height of stuffing. I also cut the top new slab an inch around larger to wrap over all the edges.




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I'll show the pic of the cover on when the chrome trim strip and grab strap is on.



I'd love to get a stencil made of the old script or at least the older block letter version of the HONDA. It would be a bit different and I think pretty cool.



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I found the later font stencil on eBay, hopefully you can find the older block letter font version. I'd guess the script version like on the yellow cover would be really hard to find, but it would certainly look cool.
 
ancientdad said:
I found the later font stencil on eBay, hopefully you can find the older block letter font version. I'd guess the script version like on the yellow cover would be really hard to find, but it would certainly look cool.
Click to expand...

I've looked before but haven't found any but the modern version. I may look into getting some made.
 
Tom,I'm very interested in those Medium and Firm density foams which you've used;have you tried it before & used different thicknesses of it on different bikes/seats? Do you know if it's open-cell or closed-cell foam ?
How do you think it works on a long ride ? I'm looking for feedback from folks who use different types of foam and how it works. Bill
 
bilbikek411 said:
Tom,I'm very interested in those Medium and Firm density foams which you've used;have you tried it before & used different thicknesses of it on different bikes/seats? Do you know if it's open-cell or closed-cell foam ?
How do you think it works on a long ride ? I'm looking for feedback from folks who use different types of foam and how it works. Bill
Click to expand...

I took a gamble and bought the 44lb. firm foam as opposed to the 36lb. medium, it is still pretty soft and with the original black foam rubber under it and the very dense backing of the gym flooring, it is real pillow top comfy but can't feel any lumpiness from the springs. I got this 6 foot by 2 foot roll for about the same as many sell a 2x2 foot piece.

Amazon.com: GoTo Foam 1" Height x 24" Width x 72" Length 44ILD (Firm) Upholstery Cushion : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

just guessing it's open cell.
 
ballbearian said:
I took a gamble and bought the 44lb. firm foam as opposed to the 36lb. medium, it is still pretty soft and with the original black foam rubber under it and the very dense backing of the gym flooring, it is real pillow top comfy but can't feel any lumpiness from the springs. I got this 6 foot by 2 foot roll for about the same as many sell a 2x2 foot piece.

Amazon.com: GoTo Foam 1" Height x 24" Width x 72" Length 44ILD (Firm) Upholstery Cushion : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

just guessing it's open cell.
Click to expand...

I see.
Have you ridden on that seat,or still in the process of working on it ?
 
bilbikek411 said:
I see.
Have you ridden on that seat,or still in the process of working on it ?
Click to expand...

This is actually seat #2. Seat #1 is on my bike but one of them will go on Charles' Dream and one will most definitely stay on my Dream. It is the most comfortable seat I've had, only the OEM seat on the CB400T comes close.
 
I can imagine that the piece of gym flooring gives stability to the array of springs that run the length of the seat and cause them all to work as one 'spring board' ? if you will..
How pliable is the top-side of that gym flooring ? I'm also curious how a piece of 1/8"-3/16" neoprene sheet in place of the gym flooring would feel ?
 
bilbikek411 said:
I can imagine that the piece of gym flooring gives stability to the array of springs that run the length of the seat and cause them all to work as one 'spring board' ? if you will..
How pliable is the top-side of that gym flooring ?
Click to expand...

It was removed from a high end private high-school so it must be tough enough to withstand the high-heel spikes of overweight principals stand for a long time at ceremonies, yet soft enough to not break a clumsily dropped champagne bottle when they've had too much.
 
ballbearian said:
It was removed from a high end private high-school so it must be tough enough to withstand the high-heel spikes of overweight principals stand for a long time at ceremonies, yet soft enough to not break a clumsily dropped champagne bottle when they've had too much.
Click to expand...

Lol :lol:
 
Seat #2 is done and ready for rump testing. I just sat on it backwards to stretch the cover on and start hooking the spikes in the rear first then moving up the sides, back and forth to keep it straight. Some have used a plastic bag over the foam to aide sliding the cover on but I didn't need to. I've learned not to over straighten the spikes because they can break off easily and I didn't lose any on this seat. I overcut the foam by an inch plus on the sides (visible in pic) but the roll I had was only 2 feet wide so it was a bit short on the front to back length. I guess I could have slid it back further an inch plus and added a small separate piece in front but I'm happy with it.

The original side trim was bent some and smashed flat in a couple spots. I just used the original round head screws clamped in the vice as a sort of anvil to reshape those areas. Some 6-32 x1/2" machine screws needed some filing on the heads to fit inside the trim but they worked well for reattachment. I also had to shorten it about an inch on one side because the PO had just drilled through the end and put a sheet metal screw in it, I shortened the other side to match.

There was a thin plate (shown in the pic) along the left rear side that I did not put back due to my thicker trim screw nuts. The seat fittings, like the strap clamps and this are not shown on the parts diagrams but originalists may find it interesting. I believe it's purpose is when lifting the bike on the centerstand it will save your manicure from the spikes and trim nuts. This rare part is available for the price of a signed confession of Dream Obsession.


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I left the strap just a bit looser because I don't like to sit on it and can keep it further back. Here is seat #2 on the bike ready to test if it's as butt worthy as #1.



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Yes, completely agree - you could start a side business, that's a quality job on something that isn't as easy as it seems.
 
Quality jobs you've done on them Tom. (y)

I hope you get some steering linkages installed on your blue Lawn Buddy before test riding that seat. :biggrin:
 
ancientdad said:
I found the later font stencil on eBay, hopefully you can find the older block letter font version. I'd guess the script version like on the yellow cover would be really hard to find, but it would certainly look cool.
Click to expand...

The later font is available from the internets. I've used it to have some stickers cut. Just search for honda font.
I've never seen that script font, but that would look cool.

BB, nice job on that seat. Quite a chore for those old springy ones.
 
Cycleranger said:
The later font is available from the internets. I've used it to have some stickers cut. Just search for honda font.
I've never seen that script font, but that would look cool.

BB, nice job on that seat. Quite a chore for those old springy ones.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It wasn't really that hard. The key is getting the springs covered with a good base layer.

I am thinking that some kind of reverse image sticker may work for a spray paint mask. I'm going to try emailing these better pics to a local graphics shop I stopped by today. They might be kind of pricey though.

The same font is used for the word Dream on the tank badges.

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Make a cool T shirt too. Maybe someone here knows of an affordable source for this kind of stuff.
 
If you have a scanner and can get me a scan of that I have buddy who owns a sign shop. With a good scanned image he could make you stickers or a stencil.
 
Cycleranger said:
If you can get it scanned, send me PM and you can email it to me.
Click to expand...

I'm trying. Only took 2 hours to get the app to recognize the scanner. Now it's just scanning but won't finish and let me view it and save it. I picked PDF format but could've picked jpeg.
 
ballbearian said:
I'm trying. Only took 2 hours to get the app to recognize the scanner. Now it's just scanning but won't finish and let me view it and save it. I picked PDF format but could've picked jpeg.
Click to expand...

Should have picked jpeg. HP all-in-ones are as good as anyone's in the price range, but they can still be a complete PITA at times.
 
ballbearian said:
I'm trying. Only took 2 hours to get the app to recognize the scanner. Now it's just scanning but won't finish and let me view it and save it. I picked PDF format but could've picked jpeg.
Click to expand...
As AD said a jpeg would be best but whatever you can get, any scanned image will be better than a photo.
 
I reset to jpeg and it's still stuck, won't finish, let me view or save. The HP smart app can't find the scanner, but if I go to printer settings then advanced settings it shows the USB connected scanner and that's where I get it to start scanning. The windows scan route fairs no better, says connect a scanner, I even plugged and unplugged the USB connection several times.

I know I suffer from wi fi hesitancy, maybe that's it.
 
ballbearian said:
I reset to jpeg and it's still stuck, won't finish, let me view or save. The HP smart app can't find the scanner, but if I go to printer settings then advanced settings it shows the USB connected scanner and that's where I get it to start scanning. The windows scan route fairs no better, says connect a scanner, I even plugged and unplugged the USB connection several times.

I know I suffer from wi fi hesitancy, maybe that's it.
Click to expand...

Don't worry, wifi connections to printers don't always work right or stay connected reliably either. I worked on many new HPs that were stupid hard to get connected wifi but it had to be done because of *where* the client wanted to put the printer...

Take it to OfficeMax or Office Depot and they'll scan it for you, take a flash drive for them to put it on. Couldn't cost much, and if it's cheap enough you can get them to give you one each of jpeg and pdf
 
ancientdad said:
Don't worry, wifi connections to printers don't always work right or stay connected reliably either. I worked on many new HPs that were stupid hard to get connected wifi but it had to be done because of *where* the client wanted to put the printer...

Take it to OfficeMax or Office Depot and they'll scan it for you, take a flash drive for them to put it on. Couldn't cost much, and if it's cheap enough you can get them to give you one each of jpeg and pdf
Click to expand...

Good, now I can give myself permission to give up. I wonder if the nearby Copyquick would ream me for a lot more than OM or OD? Is emailing the file an option that I could send on to Cycleranger?
 
ballbearian said:
Good, now I can give myself permission to give up. I wonder if the nearby Copyquick would ream me for a lot more than OM or OD? Is emailing the file an option that I could send on to Cycleranger?
Click to expand...

If it's a good scan then yes, you'd just attach the jpeg/png or pdf to the email from the flash drive. The only other suggestion would be to mail the actual page or manual/booklet/whatever to me and I'd scan it for you, but the risk of damage in transit both ways precludes that idea.
 
ancientdad said:
If it's a good scan then yes, you'd just attach the jpeg/png or pdf to the email from the flash drive. The only other suggestion would be to mail the actual page or manual/booklet/whatever to me and I'd scan it for you, but the risk of damage in transit both ways precludes that idea.
Click to expand...

LOL. My pic is of a printed download of a manual anyway. I wish I had an original of that early C95 manual. Heck, I'd be game for outlining, cutting out of some stencil material for a one off (or two).
 
Our Imgur thing has a jpeg on the direct link button so I sent it to our man of means, Cycleranger, via email. So a pic of a print of a download might work.
 
Drivers for your printer?

Tom,have you ever scanned something with that printer before ?

I was having a similar problem and,I fortuitously know a friend from back in Pa. He used Team Viewer from Pa. to work it onto my computer so the printer could be understood by the computer? or vice versa..
He uploaded the proper drivers which relates to my brand printer into my computer harddrive. He did it,because I didn't know how.. :rolleyes:
 
LongDistanceRider said:
Maybe this will help
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I suspect you did what I was thinking of this morning, go to the FSM and make a clean screenshot of it. (y)

Until I read his last post about it being printed from a manual download, I thought it was a paper manual he'd bought and had in his garage.
 
Oh these turned out nice! I stuck one on the lawnmower just to see. (The lawnmower has a lot of stickers.)
The black and white ones are stickers and the yellow ones are for a stencil.
 

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Cycleranger said:
Oh these turned out nice! I stuck one on the lawnmower just to see. (The lawnmower has a lot of stickers.)
The black and white ones are stickers and the yellow ones are for a stencil.
Click to expand...


Wow. They do look great. What is the blue one?

Now you got me thinking of a bunch of places to use the black and white stickers. Side covers on any of the CA's seem ripe for bling. Maybe chrome stickers too. Would you take Paypal?
 
ballbearian said:
Wow. They do look great. What is the blue one?

Now you got me thinking of a bunch of places to use the black and white stickers. Side covers on any of the CA's seem ripe for bling. Maybe chrome stickers too. Would you take Paypal?
Click to expand...

I sent you an email. The blue is just the backing paper.
The white 3M reflective vinyl also looks pretty good.
Chrome? Sure, anything is possible but does a CA really need bling? They're kinda blingy already, at least compared to later Honda styling.
 
Cycleranger said:
I sent you an email. The blue is just the backing paper.
The white 3M reflective vinyl also looks pretty good.
Chrome? Sure, anything is possible but does a CA really need bling? They're kinda blingy already, at least compared to later Honda styling.
Click to expand...

You're right, as they say, less is more.

Still, I've seen ; 90, Benly, Dream in that script. They used it on the tank badges in the 60's.

Now I want a T shirt. I know, kid in a candy store...:biggrin:
 
ballbearian said:
You're right, as they say, less is more.

Still, I've seen ; 90, Benly, Dream in that script. They used it on the tank badges in the 60's.

Now I want a T shirt. I know, kid in a candy store...:biggrin:
Click to expand...

I think ausman1000 just said he bought one for you... (or maybe he just bought one :lol: )
 
ballbearian said:
You're right, as they say, less is more.

Still, I've seen ; 90, Benly, Dream in that script. They used it on the tank badges in the 60's.

Now I want a T shirt. I know, kid in a candy store...:biggrin:
Click to expand...

Once you have the vector image anything is possible.. until the C&D from Honda arrives in the post.
 
Cycleranger said:
Once you have the vector image anything is possible.. until the C&D from Honda arrives in the post.
Click to expand...

Makes you wonder about all the FSM's and owner's manuals being reproduced for $50. I'm pretty respectful of an individual's labor and intellectual property though.
 
Got the really cool stencils today. Thank you Cycleranger!!

Just need to decide if the silver Rustoleum engine paint will work, or if I should get some special vinyl spray paint.
 
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