1971 CL450 that sat for 40 years.

Currently noticed two things.

The breather tube has been kinked for quite some time. I slightly moved it around to try and remove the kink.

Also, the oil level was previously filled with exactly three quarts. I checked the dipstick and it's filled maybe 1/8in to 1/4in above the second line. I'm assuming both of these issues are not healthy at all for the engine.
 
Little by little, starting to reach the end.

1st I fired up the bike momentarily (1-2mins) and used my timing light for the not-as-hot right cylinder. No spark. Pulled the spark plug out and it was completely fouled black. I screwed it back in.

I barely placed the spark plug boot on the plug and the cylinder started to fire. Ahh, I’ve been here before!

Removed it again, and sprayed the spark plug with carb cleaner to remove the black discoloration.

2nd I figured I would address the over filled oil, that was maybe causing the fouled plug. It was actually about a 1/2in above the second line on the dip stick. I put the bike on the center stand and cracked open the stator cover.

The pan was empty before the oil was drained.

I let this stream of oil drain for about 6-8 minutes. The second picture was the final result after the dip stick reading was in its suggested range.

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Next, I set both the throttle cables to open at the exact same time. I feel as if they are spot on. There is a very light fluctuating idle, probably in the 1100-1200rpm range now.

I’m not super confident with the throttle cable setup. Here are the lengths of threading on the carb side. I have not locked down those nuts yet. I think I need some adjustment on the grip side.

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That little bit of extra oil isn’t going to make a big difference and the going guideline is overfill a little. You may also want to confirm you’ve got the correct dipstick. 3 quarts should have put you in good shape.

The linked breather hose is an issue though, that’ll create vacuum issues regardless of what engine we’re talking about. If there’s still some restriction there, that could drive some of the wobbly idle, or possibly a weak spark issue - if you really want to chase a rabbit down a hole.
 
Danager4792 said:
Currently noticed two things.

The breather tube has been kinked for quite some time. I slightly moved it around to try and remove the kink.
Click to expand...
Take a piece of stiff but malleable wire, like an old school wire coat hanger, and cut a piece about 6" to 8" long. Start ahead of the kink in the hose and bend the wire around the hose to the same diameter as the unkinked section, making about 5 or 6 loops of proper diameter, then slide that over the kinked area to help it become round-shaped again. Leave it on there for a while, gently use a zip tie to hold it in place if necessary, and engine heat will slowly reshape the kinked area with help from the wire.
Danager4792 said:
Also, the oil level was previously filled with exactly three quarts. I checked the dipstick and it's filled maybe 1/8in to 1/4in above the second line. I'm assuming both of these issues are not healthy at all for the engine.
Click to expand...
It's completely safe to fill the engine up to the top of the pressed-flat area of the dipstick, I've been running mine that way for 7+ years.

dipstick full level.jpg
 
Danager4792 said:
I’m not super confident with the throttle cable setup. Here are the lengths of threading on the carb side. I have not locked down those nuts yet. I think I need some adjustment on the grip side.
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Aftermarket cables vary in both inner cable and outer cable lengths, so sometimes you have to compensate. You can unscrew the 90° elbow from the right switch bottom a turn or two to take up some slack, as well as use the cable adjuster on the end of the elbow. I'd run those at the carbs back in a couple of turns and try to take up the slack elsewhere so those aren't sitting at the end of their threaded area.
 
My CL450 dodged a bullet last night, and I am very fortunate nothing serious happened. A tree limb from my neighbor’s house fell onto my back awning.

I currently rent here and had galvanized roof sheet metal put on the white wooden frame about 6 months ago. Very glad I did that, or there probably would have been a different outcome. The acorn trees in this neighborhood were all planted in 1955.

Just a few chips on the motorcycle tank, glad I haven’t started painting yet..

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Dodged a bullet is right! Could have been so much worse, especially after putting so much time and money into the bike. Glad that's the worst of the outcome overall. Though not often, sometimes it is better to rent a place instead of own it.
 
ancientdad said:
Dodged a bullet is right! Could have been so much worse, especially after putting so much time and money into the bike. Glad that's the worst of the outcome overall. Though not often, sometimes it is better to rent a place instead of own it.
Click to expand...

I unfortunately lost my chance to own a home when Covid hit and the housing market skyrocketed. Hopefully one day soon!


The landlord stopped by. He is gonna have the middle wooden beam replaced, and possibly try to have the tin re-bent. If that doesn’t work, then a few sheet metal panels will be replaced.

Kind of sketched about having workers in the backyard with my bike back there if I’m not home. I’ll take some safety precautions. Probably nothing to worry about, I can be over paranoid about things like that.
 
Danager4792 said:
Kind of sketched about having workers in the backyard with my bike back there if I’m not home. I’ll take some safety precautions. Probably nothing to worry about, I can be over paranoid about things like that.
Click to expand...
Couldn't agree more. If it were mine, I'd move it to someone else's house while the work is being done. I wouldn't want to take the chance that they are careful around it and don't drop stuff on it themselves, and that they are honest and wouldn't come back later and steal it.
 
I installed a Blink camera inside my garage (motion activated Wi-Fi camera) as a precaution. I've never had anyone gain entry, but you never know. I can see a live view or capture a picture from the camera on my phone from anywhere I have signal.

The one downside for outside use is that it can be tricky eliminating false alarms. For example, if the wind were blowing your motorcycle cover around, the camera may detect that and alert you without good reason. It does have sensitivity settings and you can choose subsets of the viewed area to focus on. Those features help.
 
stl360+450 said:
I installed a Blink camera inside my garage (motion activated Wi-Fi camera) as a precaution. I've never had anyone gain entry, but you never know. I can see a live view or capture a picture from the camera on my phone from anywhere I have signal.

The one downside for outside use is that it can be tricky eliminating false alarms. For example, if the wind were blowing your motorcycle cover around, the camera may detect that and alert you without good reason. It does have sensitivity settings and you can choose subsets of the viewed area to focus on. Those features help.
Click to expand...
I also have blink cameras around the house and added one on the front of my shed so I can see whats going on before anyone would gain entry. It does pick up the occasional limb moving in the wind or a bug flying around in front of it but overall is pretty nice.
 
So I have very good news about the rear awning/pergola that got hit by the tree limb. Landlord sent out a guy who had done a few previous repairs prior.

2x6 board replaced and the tin that me and a friend put up was re-bent. The other boards could use a good pressure washing. Dan’s bike repair shop is officially re-opened!

IMG_9437.jpeg

I took some cautious safety measures for my bike, which could be overkill, but you never know.

Bike was moved to the base of the tree. Fork lock was used with jack stands on both sides.
Then double tarped with kids toys around it lol. Then I put both of my security cameras in the carport. One going to the backyard and one pointing towards the driveway.

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He left his ladder, power tools, and materials here to finish some other work on the back of the house tomorrow. So clearly there is some trust there. Nothing to worry about.
 
I learned this the hard way long ago, but covering a bike and leaving it that way from the cool, damp night (let alone any rainy days or nights) then into the hot day the next day can cause a lot of quick rust from trapped moisture under the cover. Hopefully you've just moved it there until he finishes work, but I thought I should mention it.
 
ancientdad said:
I learned this the hard way long ago, but covering a bike and leaving it that way from the cool, damp night (let alone any rainy days or nights) then into the hot day the next day can cause a lot of quick rust from trapped moisture under the cover. Hopefully you've just moved it there until he finishes work, but I thought I should mention it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that out. I have spent countless hours soaking parts in rust remover and also a lot of money replacing rusted parts. It would be a good idea to protect them, the correct way
 
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Now that all seems well with the overall performance of the bike, I figured now would be the right time to tackle my first paint job. I pulled off the tank and side covers today. My goal will be Candy Orange.

Background:

When I spoke with the original owner’s son a few months ago, the original color of the bike was Candy Topaz Orange. His Uncle hated the color, therefore he painted it sky blue in the late 70’s. When his father got the bike shortly after, he hated the blue color so his son painted it maroon.

It’s interesting to see this story take place before my eyes. In this photo you can see all three colors.

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I am currently about to start the paint removal process. I have two cans of automotive paint stripper. I also have a metal chisel that came with my heat gun. Would using the sharp chisel possibly cause scrapes/gouges on the tank?
 
 
Danager4792 said:
Unfortunately, I only have a battery powered drill and a dremel. If the going gets tough I’ll see if I can borrow one.
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They do sell the same thing for a drill. Just zip tie the trigger closed and hold it sideways. Works way faster and cleaner. A tank takes about 20 minutes to get ready for a final sand before primer and or filler.
 
EzPete said:
They do sell the same thing for a drill. Just zip tie the trigger closed and hold it sideways. Works way faster and cleaner. A tank takes about 20 minutes to get ready for a final sand before primer and or filler.
Click to expand...

I’ll definitely check that out. This tank has three layers of paint on it (kind of like rooms in a rental home nowadays). This top maroon coat seems super thick and stubborn.
 
After the first round of a “generous” layer of paint stripper, this was the result after 30 mins.

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On the bottom of the tank, the red and blue paint peeled back easy like flower petals to reveal an undisturbed light candy topaz orange finish. From my understanding, the undercoats from the factory were not as thick as the top coat. I only hit the bottom of the tank partially.

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After another 40 mins of paint stripper, light scraping, a rinse then dry, turns out the candy orange underneath is gold tinted.

I’ll be headed to the hardware store to find some paint stripping wheels, also grab an appropriate sized cork for the gas cap hole.

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Danager4792 said:
Unfortunately, I only have a battery powered drill and a dremel. If the going gets tough I’ll see if I can borrow one
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My cheapy $35 1/2" chuck amazon corded drill runs 3Krpm and the cordless are only half that. Better for wire wheels and abrasives. I us the grinder discs with just a hole by mounting with a 3'8" bolt washers and a nut.
Nooks and crannys easier with stripper and a pressure wash after, then sit in hot sun or dry really well.

https://www.amazon.com/GALAX-PRO-Ac...kZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&smid=A381JO3792KQE6&th=1
 
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My last pic was fairly poor light wise, so figured I would take another tonight. Also I would like to document the progress as close as possible.

Ready for clearcoat, right?🤣

The layers from top to bottom are red, gray primer, blue, candy topaz orange(now looking gold) and bare metal.

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The fact that there are no obvious dents requiring bondo makes me wonder why anyone would ever paint over an original factory finish even if they didn't like the color. It's only original once. Damn shame.
 
Just started on the tank with a corded drill and paint stripper disc. Is this bondo that I am seeing?

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Danager4792 said:
Is this bondo that I am seeing?
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Could be. If it feels a bit chalky like dried joint compound or spackle, then it's some kind of filler. Be careful not to attack those areas too aggressively unless you are prepared to redo the filler.

What kind of paint removal chemicals were you using? I'm surprised the old paint is resisting so well.
 
stl360+450 said:
Could be. If it feels a bit chalky like dried joint compound or spackle, then it's some kind of filler. Be careful not to attack those areas too aggressively unless you are prepared to redo the filler.

What kind of paint removal chemicals were you using? I'm surprised the old paint is resisting so well.
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I used a can of this. About three times I let it sit for 35-40mins.

www.summitracing.com

Dupli-Color ST300 Dupli-Color Paint Stripper | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Dupli-Color Paint Stripper with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Paint Stripper at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com


Then last night I used my heat gun and a scraper to get what would come off. Everything else was like scraping glue.

Progress thus far

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I've had good luck with the Aircraft brand paint stripper, which is available in many auto parts stores. It goes on like a sloppy goop and if you let it sit for 30 minutes it can bubble up a few layers of paint, producing colored goop that you can scrape off easily. The photo below shows it in action on a tank I bought on eBay several years ago.

IMGP1762.JPG
 
Looks like I may have disturbed a few of the body-filled areas. Do I need to remove all of the body filler? Can new filler be applied over old?
 
Danager4792 said:
Looks like I may have disturbed a few of the body-filled areas. Do I need to remove all of the body filler? Can new filler be applied over old?
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New can be applied over old, as long as there’s still adhesion. Kind of depends on how deep it is. Pretty much anything with a stripping wheel can be handled by a high build primer and sanding.
 
stl360+450 said:
I've had good luck with the Aircraft brand paint stripper, which is available in many auto parts stores. It goes on like a sloppy goop and if you let it sit for 30 minutes it can bubble up a few layers of paint, producing colored goop that you can scrape off easily. The photo below shows it in action on a tank I bought on eBay several years ago.

View attachment 35547
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I’ll definitely grab me some of that to clean up what the sanding disc can’t reach!
 
Well, the discovery of bondo was unfortunate. The PO told me that none was ever used. Oh well.

This bike has always had its many surprises, so it didn’t shock me. It just raises the difficulty of the job by a level or two.

This was today’s work. Will get back at it tomorrow.

Things I learned:

Do not leave an open coke next to the sanding area.

Do not touch where you just sanded, it will be very hot lol

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It's coming along and you will be past this stage soon enough. Do you have some sanding materials and a fill/sand primer picked out already? Once it's paint-free, it will be good to get close-ups of areas that may need to be filled.

Don't be too disappointed with the PO and the the fact that the story doesn't match the evidence. I've run into filler on a couple of my used tank purchases and I would hazard to guess that better than half of the repainted tanks out there have some filler. Otherwise, why repaint it?

Edit: It looks like the sanding or wire brushing is putting some real scratches in the metal. Those will show through quite a bit of paint if not addressed.
 
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stl360+450 said:
It's coming along and you will be past this stage soon enough. Do you have some sanding materials and a fill/sand primer picked out already? Once it's paint-free, it will be good to get close-ups of areas that may need to be filled.

Don't be too disappointed with the PO and the the fact that the story doesn't match the evidence. I've run into filler on a couple of my used tank purchases and I would hazard to guess that better than half of the repainted tanks out there have some filler. Otherwise, why repaint it?
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Dupli-Color offers a sandable or filler primer. The "filler" version says it's best for 'high-build' and filling scratches. I haven't ordered either of the two, as I wasn't sure which one I would need after removing paint. I assume I need the filler kind.

Right now I have two packs of 800 & 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

I'm not too disappointed with the PO, he had trouble remembering some events. Most of the work he did on the bike was from 1977 to 1985. The bike sat to never be worked on again in 1986. I suppose the body filler adds a difficulty level that will take me longer to learn how to fix, but I know you guys will have my back for anything I need help with.
 
Danager4792 said:
Do not touch where you just sanded, it will be very hot lol
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That and the scratches in the steel tell me you are bearing down, pressing too hard. Let the abrasive wheels do it's work. You shouldn't need to remove every speck of old paint if it's stuck on real good. The primer will seal it all down for the actual new paint.
The only reason to sand into the steel would be if there is a lot of rust under the original paint, that the primer won't cover.

It's good that you are removing the two layers of repaint (they were probably a lot more bumpy lumpy than the original), but the original, besides dents and scratches is probably pretty smooth and well stuck down to the steel. Just start wet sanding and priming (repeat as necessary). You'll soon see what areas need more help.
And soon you'll be working smarter not harder.


Those nasty areas around the gas cap and the badge mounts, I'd use a fine wire wheel on a drill to clean them up. Maybe an old toothbrush with mineral spirits to clean away the stripper deposits.

 
ballbearian said:
That and the scratches in the steel tell me you are bearing down, pressing too hard. Let the abrasive wheels do it's work. You shouldn't need to remove every speck of old paint if it's stuck on real good.
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I appreciate that advice. First time using a power drill with an abrasive disc. It was difficult to tell where the wheel was and was not hitting. Didn't help that all of the mixed colors looked like a psychadelic acid trip. I had the tank on a glass outdoor table out back, Not my best pick. The tank was sliding around so I decided to put pavers against the back of the tank to hold it. Should have had a towel underneath. Any ideas to better hold the tank in place, would be appreciated.

Towards the end I did notice that if I hit the paint layer just right, I didn't have to apply much if any pressure. Da-Ding! a light bulb went off in my head.

ballbearian said:
t's good that you are removing the two layers of repaint (they were probably a lot more bumpy lumpy than the original), but the original, besides dents and scratches is probably pretty smooth and well stuck down to the steel. Just start wet sanding and priming (repeat as necessary). You'll soon see what areas need more help.
And soon you'll be working smarter not harder.
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I still have the right side of the tank to strip down. Would it be ok to go ahead and remove that side with the disc? Or just get enough off to start wet sanding?
 
Danager4792 said:
Any ideas to better hold the tank in place, would be appreciated.
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A sheet of plywood would be best but several layers of cardboard would do in a pinch. Get those rocks away from your precious tank.
Danager4792 said:
Would it be ok to go ahead and remove that side with the disc? Or just get enough off to start wet sanding?
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Your choice really. You are going to progress from coarse scratches (the disc) to more and more finer scratches. You'll probably miss spots and go back to the course stuff here and there.
Actually the jump to wet 800 is a lot. I use these after discs and wire wheels to get closer to the wet sanding 800-1000 phase. They can be used wet too and last longer.
 
Start with a self etching primer first coat.
600 or 800 grit that layer

Hi build primer (“filler” kind). If you can swing it, the SprayMax 3680031 primer is the best, duplicolor is OK, but their aerosol cans suck terribly for the filler primers. If you go that route, make sure you’re cleaning the nozzles frequently.

800 grit between coats until you start getting smooth. Should be 2 coats, maybe 3. You can build pretty heavy with that stuff. Just go smooth and take time between coats.

Definitely build yourself a painting rig. Even just a frame of 2X’s that give you an easy way to support the tank while you hit it from 4 angles.
 
You're working way too hard.
Get a can of that stripper I posted above. It will lift that paint down to the metal. I stripped my tank recently and didn't use a single piece of sand paper or other abrasive. A quart is more than enough.
It's also great for the area around the filler neck.
(Granted that was only a single coat of paint, it will work bit slower with thicker paint.)
 
Cycleranger said:
You're working way too hard.
Get a can of that stripper I posted above. It will lift that paint down to the metal. I stripped my tank recently and didn't use a single piece of sand paper or other abrasive. A quart is more than enough.
It's also great for the area around the filler neck.
(Granted that was only a single coat of paint, it will work bit slower with thicker paint.)
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I could not find the paint stripper you posted anywhere online. Possibly discontinued? I could always try the alternatives though.
 
Sorry, it does look like they have changed or discontinued the the "strip-x".
I'm still using the can I bought a few years ago. A little of it goes a long way.
I think this is what they replaced it with.
www.homedepot.com

Klean-Strip 1 qt. Premium Paint Remover and Stripper QKPS301 - The Home Depot

For Pro's and DIY'ers, Klean-Strip is the leading brand of solvents, thinners, removers, and cleaners that are dependable for reliable results. Klean-Strip Premium Stripper and Remover strips paint, epoxy
www.homedepot.com
I would still recommend it over grinding the paint off.

Rust-oleum also sells "aircraft remover" that appears to be mostly available at auto parts stores or walmart.
I haven't used that but I would imagine that it works as well as the Klean Strip.
 
Danager4792 said:
I could not find the paint stripper you posted anywhere online. Possibly discontinued? I could always try the alternatives though.
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Did you check Walmart? I don't know if they sell the gallon can, but I've bought a couple of large spray cans of Klean-Strip from them and it works well.

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