1971 CL450 that sat for 40 years.

Looks very fine. You'll be making tracks pretty soon.

I wonder if you could get him to divulge his secret to polishing the center ribs on drum brake hubs?
 
ancientdad said:
That's more than enough right there, with the large cloth wheel being a big part of it.
Click to expand...

Here’s the link to that specific wheel. @ballbearian

www.prymemx.com

Fine Cleaning Wheel

Restore and keep up on that shine with the fine grade cleaning wheel. Your buddies will be so impressed they'll be stealing your wheels behind your back so you better stock up! Available in 4", 6", and 8" diameter. Comparable to 400 grit sandpaper 3/8" thick x 1/2" arbor hole (can be used on...
www.prymemx.com www.prymemx.com
 
Ran into the first hiccup at the mechanics garage. Nothing serious though.

When the bike had the CB550 top bridge on it, the gauges were farther apart than normal. Now that the CB/CL450(K5-K7) top bridge is on there, it looks as if I am going to need the gauge bracket that goes underneath.

IMG_5055.jpeg


I’ve been curious if I should be looking at a CB or CL K5 plate to order. I know that the only difference between the two, is that the CB had the middle instrument panel.

Upon looking at CLK5 plates, that part number would be:

PLATE, METERSET
37211-347-670


Time to do some price shopping, I’m seeing them listed on eBay for around $39.99
 
Is that those guys in Houston top bridge supposed to fit a CL450K5? or a wide range of bikes?
 
ancientdad said:
Is that those guys in Houston top bridge supposed to fit a CL450K5? or a wide range of bikes?
Click to expand...
Their page for the product says it will work on CB/CL450's with internal fork springs.
Also CB500T, with some bracket workarounds. It specifically excludes 450's with external fork springs.
 
stl360+450 said:
Their page for the product says it will work on CB/CL450's with internal fork springs.
Also CB500T, with some bracket workarounds.
Click to expand...
Good, I was just comparing top bridges and gauge brackets and the CB450K4 uses the same gauge bracket as the CL450K5
stl360+450 said:
It specifically excludes 450's with external fork springs.
Click to expand...
Yes, for obvious reasons since they are bolt-through.
 
Danager4792 said:
The fit was listed as CB450 & CL450 (K5-K7)
Click to expand...
See? They can't be bothered to read the FSM, and apparently they can't be bothered to read the parts fiches either. The CB450K4 came with the front disc and basically the forks from the CB750 and the CL450K4 did not, was still bolt-through, so the CB450K4 should be included in that list it fits.

But I'm not going to tell them.
 
ancientdad said:
See? They can't be bothered to read the FSM, and apparently they can't be bothered to read the parts fiches either. The CB450K4 came with the front disc and basically the forks from the CB750 and the CL450K4 did not, was still bolt-through, so the CB450K4 should be included in that list it fits.

But I'm not going to tell them.
Click to expand...

I could double check, but I believe that’s what I read.

Would there be any differences between the CB450K5 gauge plate vs. ordering one from a CL450K5?

Edit: Crap, the those guys in Houston listing did say CB450(K3-K7) & CL450(K5-K6)
 
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Danager4792 said:
Here’s the link to that specific wheel. @ballbearian

www.prymemx.com

Fine Cleaning Wheel

Restore and keep up on that shine with the fine grade cleaning wheel. Your buddies will be so impressed they'll be stealing your wheels behind your back so you better stock up! Available in 4", 6", and 8" diameter. Comparable to 400 grit sandpaper 3/8" thick x 1/2" arbor hole (can be used on...
www.prymemx.com www.prymemx.com
Click to expand...
Cool, I love abrasives, fits my personality. :cool:
 
I was also curious if the ground wire pictured (#1) would be necessary to have? There wasn’t one on this bike previously. Looks like that wire wasn’t there til the CL450K5.

IMG_9141.png
 
Because of the modest, less than effective ground connections that clutch and brake cables provide, it's still necessary to make sure the damper-insulated handlebar mounts convey ground to the bars for both horn and starter button functionality. It should run from the bottom of one of the handlebar mount studs to one of the gauge mount bolts. The earlier bikes relied on the tach and speedo cables to provide ground for the gauge bulbs and it caused issues, so Honda added the short ground wire. It might not be shown on all parts fiches but it's been there since probably the K1 or so.
 
ancientdad said:
Because of the modest, less than effective ground connections that clutch and brake cables provide, it's still necessary to make sure the damper-insulated handlebar mounts convey ground to the bars for both horn and starter button functionality. It should run from the bottom of one of the handlebar mount studs to one of the gauge mount bolts. The earlier bikes relied on the tach and speedo cables to provide ground for the gauge bulbs and it caused issues, so Honda added the short ground wire. It might not be shown on all parts fiches but it's been there since probably the K1 or so.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, seeing that I do have those rubber dampers now. My previous 550 “fixed” bridge didn’t have those. Seems like a simple wire to fabricate.
 
Danager4792 said:
That makes sense, seeing that I do have those rubber dampers now. My previous 550 “fixed” bridge didn’t have those. Seems like a simple wire to fabricate.
Click to expand...
Yes, you got along without it before (such as things were) because of the different top bridge and solid handlebar mount.
 
Quick question in regards to the front axle.

Previously, the original owner had forced the front forks on and tightened them down. When Jarek loosened the clamps, one of the forks was under tension and shot out to the side slightly. Also, the front axle was installed backwards.

Now that the forks have been “set” in their most natural position and tightened down, they are not completely flush with the axle. The forks will bind if they are moved any further. Would this cause an issue? Maybe has something to do with the axle being from a CL and the forks are from a CB?

IMG_5120.jpeg

IMG_5119.jpeg
 
Well, the first thing he needs to know is the axle caps are on backwards. The larger gap should be to the rear, not the front.

That said, it shouldn't be that way and it might indicate one of the upper tubes is a bit tweaked. Did he try loosening the upper tubes (one at a time) and rotating it in the clamps to see if the distance outward at the axle moves inward?
 
ancientdad said:
Well, the first thing he needs to know is the axle caps are on backwards. The larger gap should be to the rear, not the front.

That said, it shouldn't be that way and it might indicate one of the upper tubes is a bit tweaked. Did he try loosening the upper tubes (one at a time) and rotating it in the clamps to see if the distance outward at the axle moves inward?
Click to expand...

The backwards axle caps have been corrected.

He just attempted your method of loosening the upper tubes one by one and rotating them. No improvement yet.

My thought: Are the CB axles longer for their forks?
 
 
The part numbers for the front axles are not the same. The 550 uses a superceded number that was originally from the CB750 (300 middle number) and thr 450 uses a 283 middle (original CB450), but of course that doesn't account for length.
 
Danager4792 said:
Nice find. I’ve identified these forks to be from a CB550. Forgot to mention that.
Click to expand...
I suppose it's possible the width between the forks on the 550 steering stem and top bridge is slightly wider, but that's not something I know for sure.
 
Well luckily some sellers measure their items.

CL450

www.ebay.com

1970 Honda CL450 H1472-1. wheel axle bolts front rear | eBay

ORIGIN: 1970 Honda CL450 with 33,608 miles. FOR SALE: axle bolts. All issues can be worked out.
www.ebay.com

CB550/Later year CB450 axle

2nd pic

www.ebay.com

HONDA CB450 FRONT WHEEL AXLE 44301-300-000 CB 450 SUPER SPORT 500 550 750 lm | eBay

This is a used OEM front wheel axle removed from a 1970 Honda CB450 K3 Super Sport. As shown in the pictures, it is in average used condition with normal wear. The part number is 44301-300-000 and is shown to fit the following models.
www.ebay.com
 
Another picture for reference.

I’ve always noticed that the brake stopper arm was greatly bent to fit. Didn’t know if they came straight or not.

IMG_5039.jpeg
 
So if those eBay ads are to be believed, then it seems you need a CB450 axle that should be for the disc brake wheel. If true for the length, it will be an assumption that it will fit the CL hub and bearings
 
Danager4792 said:
Another picture for reference.

I’ve always noticed that the brake stopper arm was greatly bent to fit. Didn’t know if they came straight or not.
Click to expand...
I noticed that previously myself and thought about it, but didn't expect it was part of something larger. I'll go check mine.
 
Here's mine. Ignore the bright orange bolt and lock tab from my overzealous vinegar usage 7+ years ago. (it's gotten a lot worse since I last paid attention to it)

20240610_170939.jpg
 
Gonna try to explain what I think is going on in the most simple terms.

The later CB450 top bridge that I have on the bike, has slightly wider holes for the forks than the CL450K4 top bridge.

Therefore, it looks like I will need the slightly longer axle to compensate(if it fits). I’m trying to currently compare wheel bearing sizes between the later CB450 model, and CL450K4 model to verify a fit.
 
Danager4792 said:
Gonna try to explain what I think is going on in the most simple terms.

The later CB450 top bridge that I have on the bike, has slightly wider holes for the forks than the CL450K4 top bridge.
Click to expand...
It's important to point out right now that the forks have to move freely in the steering stem and top bridge. IOW, if the steering stem is slightly narrower or wider than the top bridge (mismatched parts), the upper tubes will be at a slight angle and would likely bind as you try to slide them into the lower and upper clamps. If they slide freely then the widths must be equal, meaning the overall width at the bottom of the forks is not a product of them being slightly angled outward.
Danager4792 said:
Therefore, it looks like I will need the slightly longer axle to compensate(if it fits). I’m trying to currently compare wheel bearing sizes between the later CB450 model, and CL450K4 model to verify a fit.
Click to expand...
(y)
 
stl360+450 said:
My bad. I knew you had mismatched forks originally, but mistakenly thought you were sourcing all 450 parts now.
Click to expand...
All good! The mismatched parts can definitely throw you for a loop. I can't stand it, but we are so close to having them all work together.

Current parts on front end:

Later model CB450 Top Bridge
Later model CB450 Steering Stem
CL450K4 Front Wheel and Axle
CB550 Forks

Problem:

The CL450K4 axle is slightly too short for the wider spacing of the Later model CB450 Top Bridge & Steering Stem.
I need a Later model CB450 disc brake front axle.



This may be a clue I found for the axle compatibility, using wheel bearings as a measurement for the circumference of the axle.

The compatible years listed means that a later model CB450 axle just might work.

4into1.com

Rising Sun Complete Front & Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit - Honda CB/CL450 CB500/550

Rising Sun complete front & rear wheel bearing & seal kit. Includes four quality dual sealed (2RS) wheel bearings and two double lip oil / dust seals.
4into1.com 4into1.com
 
Made a successful trip back from Jarek's today! Borrowed my Dad's Honda Ridgeline and rented a motorcycle trailer from U-Haul. $14.99 plus $8.00 insurance seemed like a good deal to me. Jarek assisted me with loading the bike and strapping it down. With four straps, it was sturdy as could be. I should have removed the mirrors, as they did start to spin loose from the wind.

Secondly, I would like to excuse the lack of pictures. It's currently 90 degrees @ 7:30 at night. Truly awful!! We were sweating bullets the moment I arrived today at noon, even in the shade.

f8d7ae1d-f4fa-47e4-b784-8506e3a2c255.jpg




@stl360+450 made a generous donation with a front axle from a later CL450K5-K6. which was the perfect length for the later CB450/550 front end setup. (Thanks Brody!)

b5305c96-a01c-490d-99fe-25c8656de9db.jpg

7ca3cd84-4f28-4dc5-b2f8-361a6fb679d4.jpg



Here are some pictures from a few days before.



09704a88-0280-47d6-aa61-826cff8b724d (1).jpg

80a56143-ec8a-4c40-bc75-890af8ed4285.jpg

The sheath for the speedometer cable is coming loose where it meets the speedo gearbox, so he did have to keep it a little upright until I order another one.


He wanted me to ride it down to the end of the road and back, to fine tune any adjustments to be made.

-The rear brake had a light squeal sometimes while riding and the brake pedal seemed super tight. He backed off the nut at the end of the brake rod. The rear brake was dragging. It seemed to fix it.
-The handlebars were tilted a little far forward, so he unbolted everything on the top bridge and tilted them forward to better suit my arm length.
-There was a random high idle at times. We think it was due to the throttle cable being too tight. He loosened the cable at the throttle grip a hair and that seemed to do well. We turned the steering left to right while the bike was idle, and that was when the RPM's would shoot up. I may pull the carbs to get the throttle plates lined up again, Also, when he drained the fuel out of the tank to remove it, I believe a little bit of rust developed after the tank sat.

After all was said and done, I was extremely pleased with bringing it home, When the sun comes out tomorrow I will be posting more pics.

Some quirks:

The rear brake light activates when the brake pedal is about 50% down. There may be some fine tuning required there.
May need some slight throttle cable adjustment again. Haven't given it another test yet.

The good news:

The bike was extremely fun to ride.. There was absolutely zero vibration in the handlebars. Just some little fine things to adjust now. Truly appreciative of this forum and all of the help that I have received from here.
 
Last edited:
Danager4792 said:
The rear brake light activates when the brake pedal is about 50% down.
Click to expand...
This should be easy. The switch is threaded into a plastic nut that sits in a holder on the frame above and behind the pedal. Threading the switch deeper in the nut will make the switch activate later. Threading it farther out will cause the switch to activate earlier.

Jarek did a really nice job with the cosmetics and hopefully it will run well for you, too.
 
Currently a new issue has come to surface. I would like to start knocking these quirks out one by one.

I am able to shift gears using the gear shifter without touching the clutch lever. I found this out after trying to take off on the bike, and it felt a little weird. Once the bike was parked, I lifted the gear shifter up and down (not aggressively) and it cycled through the gears.

Hopefully this is as simple as adjusting the clutch cable.

I’ll try this tomorrow.

 
Had a couple of nights to make some final adjustments. Ancientdad had some nice write ups for me to follow.

Got the clutch cable adjusted correctly, or at least very close. Now the bike starts to move when you slowly release the clutch lever.

The clutch lever was very wobbly, got that sorted out now.

The rear brake light has been properly adjusted, the brake light now illuminates when the drum shoes start to grab.

I also acquired some matching fork lock keys from 120zPBR. At first I couldn’t insert the key. I sprayed some WD40 on the steering stem lock, now it works very smoothly.

Current issues:

I removed both carbs and cleaned the jets. After putting both carbs back on the bike, the idle was still high with both throttle plates fully closed. After doing some thinking, I adjusted the throttle cable at the grip and then the high idle went away! Throttle cable was too tight. I remember there being a detailed throttle cable setup guide that was typed out on this thread. I’ll have to find it.

The left header pipe is getting way hotter than the right one. I’ve been through this way too many times before. I think the temps will settle out once I get the throttle plates opening at the exact same time. If not, I’ll pull out the timing light.

Also, getting a bit flustered with the routing of everything on the intake side of the engine. Fuel lines, the breather tube, carb choke connector, and clutch cable all seem to be fighting each other. I’ll take a picture tonight to see how everything can be routed more efficiently.
 
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