ballbearian
Veteran Member
All the disembodied can do is mind games, flattery mostly, unless you invite them in.... ah screw it, just go the whole hog and pull out the ouija board
-
Don't overlook our Welcome Package, it contains many links to important and helpful information about functions at VHT like posting pictures and sending PMs (private messages), as well as finding the parts you need.
AD
Maintenance and modifications, now 7 years on
- Thread starter ancientdad
- Start date
No room for a ouija board on board, and I'd prefer no evil spirits get involved.
I don't ride at night unless I get caught out later than I plan to be, so it really isn't an issue. But I think I'll move that bulb to the opposite side, then at least the tach side (the one that will work correctly) will be the readable one. The last illumination LEDs I've used came with my refurbed 450 gauges bought from an HT member and they didn't last, they were apparently vibration victims.
I don't ride at night unless I get caught out later than I plan to be, so it really isn't an issue. But I think I'll move that bulb to the opposite side, then at least the tach side (the one that will work correctly) will be the readable one. The last illumination LEDs I've used came with my refurbed 450 gauges bought from an HT member and they didn't last, they were apparently vibration victims.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
There definitely seems to be variations in LED quality. I've had some BA7's that didn't last long (I did have lack of ground and rectifier issues though) but have also got some newer different ones that seem to be holding up well. The thing I like is with the bright white 5K kelvin ones even my old semi dingy gauges are much crisper. Next purchase, will try Sparcksmoto ones, hopefully better quality than amazon whatevers.No room for a ouija board on board, and I'd prefer no evil spirits get involved.
I don't ride at night unless I get caught out later than I plan to be, so it really isn't an issue. But I think I'll move that bulb to the opposite side, then at least the tach side (the one that will work correctly) will be the readable one. The last illumination LEDs I've used came with my refurbed 450 gauges bought from an HT member and they didn't last, they were apparently vibration victims.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Could the speedo 'Face' (I still don't know what you call the numbers read-out)which shows the tach and speedometer numbers be replaced with a fresh/darker one which won't bleed the light through it because of sunlight fading ? The numbers 'Face' is so hard to read even in bright sunlight.
It's not coming through the gauge face, it's coming around it at the edges. And I'm not taking that gauge apart since I can't use the reverse-rotating speedo with my speedo drive.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
I see what you're saying about the light.
Please explain "reverse-rotating speedo" ?
Notice how the speedo needle moves the opposite direction on that gauge? So does the internal drive, which means connecting my cable to it will result in turning the speedo backwards. I'll be looking for a later gauge that both needles move in the same direction like the Bomber gauges.
bilbikek411
Veteran Member
Ohhh..
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Dang. If only one could flip rotation at the wheel end driver easily.
I know, and I looked for a reversal device and they do make them but what I found was only for cars. Bill Silver said the CB77 speedo drive unit would work as far as rotation but he was not sure if it would work with the 450 axle and hub without modification. The simpler way to go, albeit probably more expensive, would be to find a later CB77 gauge with both needles going the same direction like the Bomber gauges. That's down the road, for now I'm not going to agonize over it.
Well, the throttle cable 'hack' works but it is not a long term fix - not because it isn't functional, but for a completely different reason related to overall engine performance. While syncing the carbs after finishing the installation I noticed that the inner cable slack is now too much for the adjusters at the twist grip and the carb tops to compensate for, and as a result the slides do not lift completely. They stop lifting with roughly a quarter inch of slide still in the venturi, which will obviously affect top end performance. I guess either I'll have to make one to length myself from gray cables I have around, or find someone who will custom-make one in gray for me (which would likely be pricey). But the fakey-look passes the visual.
There's the second splitter (the real functional one) back in between the motor mount plates as before.
On another disappointing note, buying a gas tank from Webike that shortly after the purchase in late 2016 went out of stock (and Tanaka Trading doesn't seem to make them anymore) means it's more difficult to get a proper replacement part for it, like a new petcock. I thought I had one that would fit (ordered it a year or more ago) but had to guesstimate which one to buy based on appearance and advertised specs. Turns out the one I bought does not fit and it's disappointing because it is a better quality valve. But, the tank got a little flush today in the process and I discovered that the reserve really does work... so now I have zero clue what happened when Chris and I rode out to Ozello Trail when he visited last and my bike never went on reserve, yet ran out of gas around 45 miles into the tankful. There was a little bit of rust residue around the filter screen on it as well so it got a good cleaning and reassembled.
And now it was finally time to change the gravel-engraved oil filter cover from the 5 mph fall in the cabin driveway in October 2022. All other parts have been replaced, and I've had a good used cover waiting for the next oil change and filter clean. Though the right crankcase cover looks okay from a standing position, you can clearly see the rock chips in the no-longer-available-in-the-same-hue Oyster Silver Honda Marine paint color I used on the covers... so when it finally gets repainted, so do the other two covers as well.
Pulled the cover, cleaned the filter (barely anything in it) and then swapped the filter valve over to the replacement, making sure to carefully mark the demon holes that I missed in early 2017 when I caused myself so much grief, repairs and money spent chasing intermittent oiling that no one, including myself, could help me figure out. Until I finally noticed it myself after 2 replacement left exhaust cam bearing covers, and ruined follower and cam lobe that had to be repaired by MegaCycle. NOT GONNA HAPPEN AGAIN.
Marked the cover with a Sharpie to get the tabs on the valve in the right places.
Filled it up with Rotella and realized the 2.5 gallon jug I got so cheap and thought would last years is now almost gone... but I did use it in the CB900F and the new generator too.
There's the second splitter (the real functional one) back in between the motor mount plates as before.
On another disappointing note, buying a gas tank from Webike that shortly after the purchase in late 2016 went out of stock (and Tanaka Trading doesn't seem to make them anymore) means it's more difficult to get a proper replacement part for it, like a new petcock. I thought I had one that would fit (ordered it a year or more ago) but had to guesstimate which one to buy based on appearance and advertised specs. Turns out the one I bought does not fit and it's disappointing because it is a better quality valve. But, the tank got a little flush today in the process and I discovered that the reserve really does work... so now I have zero clue what happened when Chris and I rode out to Ozello Trail when he visited last and my bike never went on reserve, yet ran out of gas around 45 miles into the tankful. There was a little bit of rust residue around the filter screen on it as well so it got a good cleaning and reassembled.
And now it was finally time to change the gravel-engraved oil filter cover from the 5 mph fall in the cabin driveway in October 2022. All other parts have been replaced, and I've had a good used cover waiting for the next oil change and filter clean. Though the right crankcase cover looks okay from a standing position, you can clearly see the rock chips in the no-longer-available-in-the-same-hue Oyster Silver Honda Marine paint color I used on the covers... so when it finally gets repainted, so do the other two covers as well.
Pulled the cover, cleaned the filter (barely anything in it) and then swapped the filter valve over to the replacement, making sure to carefully mark the demon holes that I missed in early 2017 when I caused myself so much grief, repairs and money spent chasing intermittent oiling that no one, including myself, could help me figure out. Until I finally noticed it myself after 2 replacement left exhaust cam bearing covers, and ruined follower and cam lobe that had to be repaired by MegaCycle. NOT GONNA HAPPEN AGAIN.
Marked the cover with a Sharpie to get the tabs on the valve in the right places.
Filled it up with Rotella and realized the 2.5 gallon jug I got so cheap and thought would last years is now almost gone... but I did use it in the CB900F and the new generator too.
fxray
Veteran Member
Can you cut off the end of the throttle cable at the twist grip, bird cage the wire, and solder on a new barrel? Would that make the cable too short, or do you have enough to work with? Somebody said that Flanders Cable is gone, but I think they are just having website issues. You can probably still call them on the phone. Do you happen to have a picture of the cable end that attaches to the throttle sleeve?
All the cables I've used are Honda-style aftermarket pieces so the barrel ends are the same as original. I've just never soldered a cable end before and with a vacation coming soon I don't want to do anything that won't be reliable. After we're back I'll look into combining some of the different length pieces and try making one of my own I guess, I really don't have anything to lose.
fxray
Veteran Member
Just don't do anything on your vacation where you have to evade the cops and you'll probably be fine without that last bit of WOT.
LOL, they'd just follow the noise... and it isn't like I have a Hayabusa that can outrun even a helicopter sometimes.Just don't do anything on your vacation where you have to evade the cops and you'll probably be fine without that last bit of WOT.
Well, it's almost done - that is, before a test ride of course. Did the partial tune-up today (let the valves and cam chain go since it's only been about 600 miles or so and no perceptible cam chain slack while viewing crankshaft and exhaust camshaft movement) and the timing was only off a few degrees on the left cylinder, right cylinder still spot on. I got a chance to use one of my buddy Chris's custom full advance timing setting rings instead of an o-ring like I used last time I did it before our trip in October 2022.
Rather than worry about checking full advance on it anymore since it doesn't idle well once warmed up, I decided to adjust the limiter tabs on the advancer a bit and then lock it at full advance, then adjust the points and plate to set the timing statically at the last full advance mark. Worked great the last time I did it using a small o-ring behind the advancer bolt and washer, and when I told Chris about it he machined a few up with his lathe. The fit is excellent, with an ID that fits over the center shaft of the advancer so you can snug the bolt and hold the unit in full advance.
Mark the points plate where it is, then remove it, remove the bolt and washer from the camshaft, slip the ring into place and snug up the bolt while holding the advancer in place at full advance position.
Then put the points plate back in, set your gaps, and check the timing at the full advance marks. Once finished you can leave everything in place, remove the advancer bolt, take the ring off and put the bolt and washer back on.
Moved on to the last item inside the headlight case, the neutral bulb/socket/wiring and little rubber boot which conveniently came in the mail today.
Everything looks great in the package. Too bad the quality of some of it wasn't really up to what it should be. The rubber boot fits, but the groove molded into it that locks into the "flange" side of the plastic nut is not well made and just trying to insert the bulb and socket into it can pop it right off the plastic nut on the lens. And of course, though not their fault, it has 2 male ends and I needed one male and one female, so now there's another soldered and heat-shrunk splice with a non-matching female wire and connector on the end of it. Oh well. But for the money they charged and the profit they made on the shipping alone, it should have been a bit better quality. Ya takes what's available when what ya wants ain't.
I left them a comment in my order and it was printed, but of course they did not respond to it.
Rechecked the carb sync today with a fresh view, they're as close as you can get them by feeling one while viewing the movement of the other. All that's left now is slipping the tank and seat back on and then a test ride to (hopefully) validate my rear brake modification alluded to earlier.
Rather than worry about checking full advance on it anymore since it doesn't idle well once warmed up, I decided to adjust the limiter tabs on the advancer a bit and then lock it at full advance, then adjust the points and plate to set the timing statically at the last full advance mark. Worked great the last time I did it using a small o-ring behind the advancer bolt and washer, and when I told Chris about it he machined a few up with his lathe. The fit is excellent, with an ID that fits over the center shaft of the advancer so you can snug the bolt and hold the unit in full advance.
Mark the points plate where it is, then remove it, remove the bolt and washer from the camshaft, slip the ring into place and snug up the bolt while holding the advancer in place at full advance position.
Then put the points plate back in, set your gaps, and check the timing at the full advance marks. Once finished you can leave everything in place, remove the advancer bolt, take the ring off and put the bolt and washer back on.
Moved on to the last item inside the headlight case, the neutral bulb/socket/wiring and little rubber boot which conveniently came in the mail today.
Everything looks great in the package. Too bad the quality of some of it wasn't really up to what it should be. The rubber boot fits, but the groove molded into it that locks into the "flange" side of the plastic nut is not well made and just trying to insert the bulb and socket into it can pop it right off the plastic nut on the lens. And of course, though not their fault, it has 2 male ends and I needed one male and one female, so now there's another soldered and heat-shrunk splice with a non-matching female wire and connector on the end of it. Oh well. But for the money they charged and the profit they made on the shipping alone, it should have been a bit better quality. Ya takes what's available when what ya wants ain't.
I left them a comment in my order and it was printed, but of course they did not respond to it.
Rechecked the carb sync today with a fresh view, they're as close as you can get them by feeling one while viewing the movement of the other. All that's left now is slipping the tank and seat back on and then a test ride to (hopefully) validate my rear brake modification alluded to earlier.
Last edited:
Danager4792
Veteran Member
I have never been “present” during one of your personal “Projects & Builds” posts. It’s great seeing the man who helps everyone else, in action!
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Chris's advancer ring is a neat idea. Sounds like it would take care of any slop in the springs for a more accurate static adjustment that way.
You have well trained "hand, eye" coordination and don't need the popsickle sticks or hibachi skewers for carb synching.
I've used tiny zip ties to help keep the indicator boot on that bezel nut with the original rubber boot, but I like the Uxcel terminal boots best now.
You have well trained "hand, eye" coordination and don't need the popsickle sticks or hibachi skewers for carb synching.
I've used tiny zip ties to help keep the indicator boot on that bezel nut with the original rubber boot, but I like the Uxcel terminal boots best now.
During one of our lengthy phone calls when I told him about the thought I came up with to use an o-ring, I didn't give it another thought after that. Next time he sent me some parts he included a few of those rings he made on his lathe. It was a great idea, and that's the kind of guy he is.
Took a short test ride a little while ago and other than a 60+ year old gauge being what you'd expect a 60+ year old gauge to be, things are pretty damn good. I had to come up with a way to help the main harness go back into the headlight case after turning the bars full right because with the headlight a bit further out in front of the forks than the original was, the length was a bit short inside the case and that combined with the smaller harness hole in the back of the case made it slip out and then bow outward as the bars were turned back to center instead of retreating into the case again. Simple enough fix though a bit cheesy, I used a zip tie between the harness sheath and the clutch cable in front of the steering head and it works okay now.
A little bit of carb adjustments at idle will get done before the trip, though nothing dramatic is necessary. The tach function is a bit disappointing for a gauge that doesn't really look as bad as many its age. Initially it seemed okay, but after a few minutes I found the needle pegged against the center of the speedo needle (which would equate to at least 13,000 rpm) and staying there until just above idle. I'm not inclined to bother with working on the insides of a gauge that I can't use permanently because of the opposite-rotation speedo, but that does bring up another interesting thing I wondered about before the ride - what reaction will the speedo give while rotating backwards? The answer is, despite not having a trip meter anymore, I can use the odometer as it counts the miles removed from the current total miles on the speedo. I wondered if it would work out like that and it does. So now I'm on the hunt for a later CB77 gauge.
So now that I've ridden it about 15 miles total, I can report that my rear brake experiment is effective and reliable with no apparent repercussions from the design. I basically copied the idea I've seen used on billet cafe rearsets where a piece of the stock brake pedal is used to pull the original brake rod, and another piece of linkage connected to the same piece of stock brake pedal is connected to the aftermarket brake pedal (or in this case, my shortened original brake pedal). I had to work with what I'd already done previously so no further fabrication or welding would be necessary, and the additional parts required came a couple of years ago from @MrPepper when he graciously sent me a CB450 brake pedal and centerstand pivot tube.
I previously used the original brake pedal return spring modified to use a small hole in the rear footpeg bracket as an attachment point, but with the new setup that spring coiled around the pedal would make things even more complicated during assembly. So, instead I opened up the hole in the footpeg bracket just slightly and used a 5mm screw with double nuts on the back behind the bracket as a post for the conventional coil spring I planned to use. Too hard to get a direct picture of it, but a plain nut up against an acorn nut (amazingly my father's nut and bolt drawer had a 5mm acorn) provides an end on the screw to retain the top end of the coil spring.
I had to narrow up the top of the rod pull area of the brake pedal in order to use the clevis piece of linkage I planned into things due to the space constraints of the swingarm and rear footpeg bracket.
I agonized over the clearance situation, concerned about suspension movement being the x-factor but all the efforts I took to narrow things as much as possible paid off. There were more than a few little things I did to ensure the clearance, stuff I didn't take picturres of and only gave a 1/16" inch here and there, but it all added up to enough. I bought a CB650 rear brake rod and it turned out to be a little bit too long, so I shortened it about 2.5" and despite that the brake arm on the rear backing plate still has to be removed in order to remove the brake rod for any rear wheel removal. But the upside is I can now lock the rear brake at low speed, something I wasn't able to do before, and I'll be able to brake harder and finish getting the shoes bedded into the rear drum now as well.
Once finished and ridden around the neighborhood a little, I took a few pics of it in natural light.
A little bit of carb adjustments at idle will get done before the trip, though nothing dramatic is necessary. The tach function is a bit disappointing for a gauge that doesn't really look as bad as many its age. Initially it seemed okay, but after a few minutes I found the needle pegged against the center of the speedo needle (which would equate to at least 13,000 rpm) and staying there until just above idle. I'm not inclined to bother with working on the insides of a gauge that I can't use permanently because of the opposite-rotation speedo, but that does bring up another interesting thing I wondered about before the ride - what reaction will the speedo give while rotating backwards? The answer is, despite not having a trip meter anymore, I can use the odometer as it counts the miles removed from the current total miles on the speedo. I wondered if it would work out like that and it does. So now I'm on the hunt for a later CB77 gauge.
So now that I've ridden it about 15 miles total, I can report that my rear brake experiment is effective and reliable with no apparent repercussions from the design. I basically copied the idea I've seen used on billet cafe rearsets where a piece of the stock brake pedal is used to pull the original brake rod, and another piece of linkage connected to the same piece of stock brake pedal is connected to the aftermarket brake pedal (or in this case, my shortened original brake pedal). I had to work with what I'd already done previously so no further fabrication or welding would be necessary, and the additional parts required came a couple of years ago from @MrPepper when he graciously sent me a CB450 brake pedal and centerstand pivot tube.
I previously used the original brake pedal return spring modified to use a small hole in the rear footpeg bracket as an attachment point, but with the new setup that spring coiled around the pedal would make things even more complicated during assembly. So, instead I opened up the hole in the footpeg bracket just slightly and used a 5mm screw with double nuts on the back behind the bracket as a post for the conventional coil spring I planned to use. Too hard to get a direct picture of it, but a plain nut up against an acorn nut (amazingly my father's nut and bolt drawer had a 5mm acorn) provides an end on the screw to retain the top end of the coil spring.
I had to narrow up the top of the rod pull area of the brake pedal in order to use the clevis piece of linkage I planned into things due to the space constraints of the swingarm and rear footpeg bracket.
I agonized over the clearance situation, concerned about suspension movement being the x-factor but all the efforts I took to narrow things as much as possible paid off. There were more than a few little things I did to ensure the clearance, stuff I didn't take picturres of and only gave a 1/16" inch here and there, but it all added up to enough. I bought a CB650 rear brake rod and it turned out to be a little bit too long, so I shortened it about 2.5" and despite that the brake arm on the rear backing plate still has to be removed in order to remove the brake rod for any rear wheel removal. But the upside is I can now lock the rear brake at low speed, something I wasn't able to do before, and I'll be able to brake harder and finish getting the shoes bedded into the rear drum now as well.
Once finished and ridden around the neighborhood a little, I took a few pics of it in natural light.
Last edited:
And kudos to @ballbearian for his suggestion of favorite cable lube Kable-Ease, that stuff really works. I've always been hesitant to lube new or good cables unless they absolutely needed it, because I've had bad results in the past with it working fine for a while but then getting worse later for some reason. The clutch cable on my 450 only has 3600 miles on it but has always pulled a bit stiff, and the engine has stock clutch springs and a well-lubed lifter mechanism so it made me wonder why, but this stuff improved the pull significantly and it's a lot nicer now.
Last edited:
stl360+450
Veteran Member
That's pretty interesting and adds credibility to Ferris Bueller's Day Off.
That's good news. I assume you didn't attempt to lock the rear wheel at higher speeds. =)
ausman1000
Veteran Member
If ballbearian mentioned his own useage of the Kable Ease I would certainly like a link to it. I know lubing cables can make a big difference, my son's clutch cable on his cb350 for example. His action was very heavy/stiff compared to my clutch and after going over everything the cable was the last on the list. I never would have believed it but after a clean and lube it was night and day. This is what we used but I would like to try the Kable Ease as well.
It looks to have some graphite in it, the liquid is a blackish color. I'm amazed at the difference. It didn't feel like much at first but after it sat for a while and (I think) soaked further down the length of the cable, it got better and then after today's short ride up to full temperature it pulls about 40% better. I'm very happy, it will ease the load on my left hand while riding twisties with lots of shifts.
Walmart lists it but they're out of stock, and I suspect the price shown ($3.99) was before more greedflation set in. Oh, and the search result lists the tube as "12 ounces" when in fact, it's 1/2 oz
Walmart lists it but they're out of stock, and I suspect the price shown ($3.99) was before more greedflation set in. Oh, and the search result lists the tube as "12 ounces" when in fact, it's 1/2 oz
ausman1000
Veteran Member
Thanks for that. I will order some, and for starters use it on a mid 80's Bridgestone 12 speed I am currently restoring.
Carry on....
Last edited:
Danager4792
Veteran Member
I actually have this same exact headlight for my CL450. With the parking light and all. I was curious about the adjustment screw. Did you ever figure anything out? Also, I am very curious to see what you have in store for the parking light.
I'm going to try to sneak the (non-functional) side adjustment screw in the hole to fill it, not sure if it will clear the outer ring of the headlight but I'll try.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
You are supposed to shake it well to get the graphite into suspension before you apply it. I was shown it by my old boss to use on speedo cables especially.
I suspected as much once I saw the look of it, so I did shake it vigorously before dribbling into my cardboard funnel. Well, the Kable-Ease, not me.
Can't use it without bending or cutting it shorter, the headlight glass and outer metal rim are enough larger than the original that the screw won't fit past the assembly. It wouldn't be functional anyway since the headlight is held in the rim by 4 "W" spring retainer clips, but it would be nice to have one in the open hole in the rim. Oh well, that's what happens sometimes when you do custom stuff.
Nothing exotic, I just ran it off switched power through the old CB77 headlight switch with the new non-original "chicken-head" knob on it. It's independent from the headlight, so I can turn it on or off anytime the key is turned on.
fxray
Veteran Member
On a Brit bike, that's called a pilot light or pilot lamp. In daylight, it lights up the bucket enough to make it look like you are complying with the unelected beaurocrat's desire for a daytime headlight, yet it is a low wattage bulb. It helps a weak charging system keep the battery charged properly.
Good to know, I wondered how it was described from the Brit or Euro perspective. When I put about 15 miles on the bike a few days ago, I turned the headlight off when going through my neighborhood at low rpm and turned it on when I got to the highway. Doesn't hurt that my little 4 amp lithium ion battery holds 13.3v at rest.
fxray
Veteran Member
Well, the actual intended purpose is that the Europeans wanted at least a small lamp burning, both front and rear, if your bike broke down and had to be parked along the shoulder (the verge in England). That's the same reason for the parking lamp on the old Hondas. I always thought that would just make it easier for thieves looking for bikes to steal in the dark.
Until the battery went dead, LOL. Then either the bike completely hides, like my XL250 with a flat tire on the north end of a major highway in north Tampa when I was in high school (and I shoved it into the bushes next to a fence line on that then-little-traveled section of the road late at night), or it's defenseless with many cars going by not seeing it until they're nearly upon it.I always thought that would just make it easier for thieves looking for bikes to steal in the dark.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Last time I checked, I actually don’t have an extra female green ground connector to plug the parking light into. I think I had to sacrifice pulling the green wire from the high beam connector to make room.
The main harness on my bike has one female green multi-connector and I might have to do something myself if I want to use the high beam indicator in the newer gauge I have coming from @Davomoto
Honda used these a lot when an extra connection was needed.
Yes, and somewhere in my less-than-organized mess I have one for ground just like that (except green, of course) but I couldn't find it the other day when I looked for it. But if you saw my garage you'd know why.
It will turn up right after you make a new one!
Davomoto
Well-known Member
The high beam indicator that came in the CB77 has only the blue wire, the dash lights only a brown wire and the neutral light the green with red stripe and a black wire. There is a green wire attached to the base of the speedo unit that attaches to ground and the lights, neutral excepted use the base as ground. A Dede aged ground wire from frame to somew in the headlight shell is always a good idea.
Yes, I have at least one additional ground to the frame over the stock harness and the ground from the gauge is plugged into the multi-connector green in the main harness. I just wish the gauge would get here... right now it's trapped in the black hole that is (often) the Jacksonville post office hub. Hopefully it doesn't get sent back to the west coast before finally being delivered like my t-shirt did a few years ago when Jim shipped it to me.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
The stingy stock headlamp ground is an extra load for sure. I kinda dig the fork ears. Makes Gort look long, low and mean, plus you can see more bucket contour with its cool oval.
Richard Pitman
Veteran Member
Luckily for us, there's no law that compels us to have day time running lights on our old bikes, just legislation that all new cars and bikes have these as standard, and are not capable of being switched off. Daft thing is that DRLs on cars only work at the front, rear running lights only come on when the headlights are switched on. Means that when there is fog we often see cretins relying on their front DRLs, rear end unilluminated. Same idiots running cars with auto headlights, unaware that they need to switch on headlights manually in fog.
Yes, Gort had plastic surgery and is now more typical of the era.
Good thing I now have a spare gauge and another even better one on the way. After over-reading the rpms every time the bike was run so far, well past the end of the tach reading on the face and bumping the center of the speedo needle, about 3 or 4 miles from the Speedway station bike hangout this morning on my way there the tach needle broke off. I didn't see it happen, and the piece of the needle fell down inside behind the face because it's nowhere to be seen.
The complete headlight and gauge assembly I bought (only minutes before VHT @Davomoto offered his very nice gauge to me) arrived yesterday. Headlight glass broken, broken bits throughout the bubble wrap, headlight case dented inward right at one of the mount bolts (seen in the ad), both cables still sticking out of the bottom of the case (speedo cable cut off, entire tach cable and part of the drive still attached), and the gauge looked really rough on the outside. A couple of positives were I got another jewel (this one blue) and a complete, intact and good condition bulb, socket and rubber 'housing' assembly for my neutral light, all complete with Honda connectors and not chopped up like the last one, as well as another switch for my park lamp that has a good condition shaft, undamaged. It also had the wrong knob on it, seems they must have been easy to lose or break. The blue jewel cleaned up nicely too.
As it was when delivered:
and the rim looked like this almost all over:
I soaked the rim in Evaporust for about a half hour, and during that time I soaked a thick paper towel with Evaporust and started working on the gauge ring. Rubbed and kept it wet, and after about 20 minutes or so of work it came pretty damn clean.
Good thing I now have a spare gauge and another even better one on the way. After over-reading the rpms every time the bike was run so far, well past the end of the tach reading on the face and bumping the center of the speedo needle, about 3 or 4 miles from the Speedway station bike hangout this morning on my way there the tach needle broke off. I didn't see it happen, and the piece of the needle fell down inside behind the face because it's nowhere to be seen.
The complete headlight and gauge assembly I bought (only minutes before VHT @Davomoto offered his very nice gauge to me) arrived yesterday. Headlight glass broken, broken bits throughout the bubble wrap, headlight case dented inward right at one of the mount bolts (seen in the ad), both cables still sticking out of the bottom of the case (speedo cable cut off, entire tach cable and part of the drive still attached), and the gauge looked really rough on the outside. A couple of positives were I got another jewel (this one blue) and a complete, intact and good condition bulb, socket and rubber 'housing' assembly for my neutral light, all complete with Honda connectors and not chopped up like the last one, as well as another switch for my park lamp that has a good condition shaft, undamaged. It also had the wrong knob on it, seems they must have been easy to lose or break. The blue jewel cleaned up nicely too.
As it was when delivered:
and the rim looked like this almost all over:
I soaked the rim in Evaporust for about a half hour, and during that time I soaked a thick paper towel with Evaporust and started working on the gauge ring. Rubbed and kept it wet, and after about 20 minutes or so of work it came pretty damn clean.
Last edited:
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Looks way better.
Hopefully this gauge hasn't had the auto-destruct activated.
If the glass broke from poor packing, I'd let the seller know.
Hopefully this gauge hasn't had the auto-destruct activated.
If the glass broke from poor packing, I'd let the seller know.
It was known, but I wouldn't have expected them to ship it with loose glass pieces still falling out into the box and bubble wrap.
Finally the tracking for the gauge on the way from @Davomoto shows some movement out of the Jacksonville black hole, so hopefully it will be here in the next day or two.
The gauge from @Davomoto finally arrived yesterday, thankfully it didn't get sent back to California before finally being delivered like my t-shirt did a couple years ago. It's been apart, but someone did a nice job of it and the crimp ring is perfect in all visible areas. Now my only difficulty will be getting the old, tired rubber ring moved from the other one I bought since this gauge doesn't have one. Hopefully I can get it swapped over without damage. I'll change the neutral light jewel to the blue one while I'm in there, and change the headlight rim to the actual CB77 rim too.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Is the rubber ring hard and brittle? Have you tried soaking in rubbing alcohol and wintergreen oil? Stinks but I had good luck with the air cleaner boot on my S90 to get it soften up.
It's not completely hard, but it's stuck on the other gauge right under the crimp ring at the top and I can't soak it in anything without soaking the upper part of the gauge with it. I'm just concerned with ruining it trying to remove it from the one to put it on the other. And this is more like foam rubber so I'm not sure how wintergreen oil and rubbing alcohol would work on it, or if it would soften it too much.
It's this one just under the crimp ring
