1971 CL450 that sat for 40 years.

There is a member over at the SOHC4 forums who makes and sells the D washers.
(Aw shoot I guess you can't view the For Sale section unless you're a member.)
His forum name is Johnie.
Well, unless someone wants to wait 5 days to be approved at SOHC4, don't bother. It's an embarrassment to forums, we approve new members in minutes, usually less than 5 to 10 minutes and often under 5. The only ones who have to wait are those who join between typically 3 AM and 8 AM EDT when both Jim and I are asleep, and they get handled within a half hour of when I get up.
 
Didn't think to mention you could have picked up a new camshaft seal for the used cam bearing, now would have been the time to do it. Still easy enough later if it leaks. Clean up that gasket surface and, before you install it, wipe a little motor oil on the inside edge of the seal center, then rotate slightly left and right as you gently push it over the taper on the end of the camshaft so the seal won't turn backwards and the spring come off like the one you removed.
 
Didn't think to mention you could have picked up a new camshaft seal for the used cam bearing, now would have been the time to do it. Still easy enough later if it leaks. Clean up that gasket surface and, before you install it, wipe a little motor oil on the inside edge of the seal center, then rotate slightly left and right as you gently push it over the taper on the end of the camshaft so the seal won't turn backwards and the spring come off like the one you removed.
I believe I have a seal.. I bought this oil seal kit from 4into1. There is one labeled “Points Seal”.

 
I believe I have a seal.. I bought this oil seal kit from 4into1. There is one labeled “Points Seal”.

That's it, good job.
 
That's it, good job.
Would any of the other cam bearings need any oil? They are already buttoned up. And would it be a good idea to pump any motor oil onto the cam lobes/followers/etc. before I put the intake/exhaust valve covers back on?

Edit: I do not plan on putting those valve covers back for a little while, as I will probably be doing another valve adjustment, etc.
 
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Would any of the other cam bearings need any oil? They are already buttoned up. And would it be a good idea to pump any motor oil onto the cam lobes/followers/etc. before I put the intake/exhaust valve covers back on?
Good that you asked, and I have a solution for you. Before you go that far however, you'll want to adjust the cam chain after you're done with the last cam bearing (leave the plugs out), then adjust all 4 valves on the proper stroke (ask if you're not sure), then at least set the points and static timing with a test light. Start with both points set at .014" when they're open fully, do one set at a time to be sure.

Then, before you put the valve covers back on, you can take care of the oiling situation. If you have an old school squirt oil can, you can fill it with motor oil, then on the exhaust cam, cover the tach drive side oil orifice in the cam lobe (hopefully your cams only have one orifice each lobe) and pump copious amounts of oil into the right cam lobe until you see it oozing out of the cam bearing end where it meets the camshaft on each side. It will fill the camshaft and if you hold your finger over the one lobe orifice and squirt into the other it will also make its way into the tach drive and down the cylinder studs where the oil flow comes up to the top end. Then do the same with the intake side until you see oil oozing out of the cam bearings. Put the valve covers on and it'll be ready to start (at a low rpm for the first 2 minutes, of course).
 
“New” cam bearing has been cleaned of residue, new gasket and oil seal installed.

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Any reason the advancer spring assembly doesn’t want to travel all the way down the camshaft? It stops early. I could lightly hit it with a rubber mallet but don’t want to try that yet..

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Are you lining up that cut-out with the key on the cam shaft?

Isn't it satisfying when you get the gasket surface super clean? Took me a little while to appreciate it when I started, but now I take it very seriously.
 
Are you lining up that cut-out with the key on the cam shaft?

Isn't it satisfying when you get the gasket surface super clean? Took me a little while to appreciate it when I started, but now I take it very seriously.
I have developed a whole system now. Lol. First I hand pick, then lightly use a flathead screwdriver, then green scotchbrite, then lightly use a razor, then 0000 steel wool… All with WD40 applied. It’s a good feeling!

And yes, I have tried endlessly with all points aligned. Idk what could have happened
 
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Did it come off of this cam? Probably just some corrosion. I'd try to clean up that points cam (where the heel of the points rubs) with some fine emery cloth. Dunk the whole thing in your evaporust for a day then toothbrush it as best you can, oil it and install.
 
Did it come off of this cam? Probably just some corrosion. I'd try to clean up that points cam (where the heel of the points rubs) with some fine emery cloth. Dunk the whole thing in your evaporust for a day then toothbrush it as best you can, oil it and install.
Yes, this would be the second time I have removed it. Kind of strange that it would not want to go back on. I’ll give everyone’s cleaning advice a try.
 
Yes, this would be the second time I have removed it. Kind of strange that it would not want to go back on. I’ll give everyone’s cleaning advice a try.
Pretty cool that Honda made these parts with such exact tolerances, but a small amount of corrosion can create a situation like this. No big deal. Do what LDR said, inside and out.
 
Pretty cool that Honda made these parts with such exact tolerances, but a small amount of corrosion can create a situation like this. No big deal. Do what LDR said, inside and out.
Would you happen to know what size e-clips go on the posts, that hold the weights? I had one randomly fall off tonight. I replaced my loose ones with some from Ace Hardware, I guess they didn’t fit right. All I would need is a measurement of the post in millimeters I think.
 
Would you happen to know what size e-clips go on the posts, that hold the weights? I had one randomly fall off tonight. I replaced my loose ones with some from Ace Hardware, I guess they didn’t fit right. All I would need is a measurement of the post in millimeters I think.
Not off hand. I guess you could use the other for size. Honda doesn't have separate spare parts for these advancers but the tiny circlips and thin washers are important. It's also handy to have a slide caliper on hand to measure these various parts. Digital electric is quick and handy, but so is old school vernier (especially if your eyes are good.

 
Everyone addressed the concerns I had when I caught up to this thread just now. I'm assuming the new seal is in the cam bearing flush with the surface of the back of the housing. I'm also assuming, based on the pictures, that the allen head cap screws you used are no taller than the JIS screws you removed, seems to be the case in 2D vision. And yes, the e-clips are metric sized, too bad you don't have a spare unit to steal one from.
 
Everyone addressed the concerns I had when I caught up to this thread just now. I'm assuming the new seal is in the cam bearing flush with the surface of the back of the housing. I'm also assuming, based on the pictures, that the allen head cap screws you used are no taller than the JIS screws you removed, seems to be the case in 2D vision. And yes, the e-clips are metric sized, too bad you don't have a spare unit to steal one from.
Comparing my old JIS screws to the parts diagrams, everything was out of whack. At least one screw on every component was the wrong size, extremely stripped, or stuck. This was causing headaches and oil leaks too. The new Allen set, with pictures of locations, has been a breath of fresh air.
 
Comparing my old JIS screws to the parts diagrams, everything was out of whack. At least one screw on every component was the wrong size, extremely stripped, or stuck. This was causing headaches and oil leaks too. The new Allen set, with pictures of locations, has been a breath of fresh air.
Though I'm not a big fan, those are small cap-heads - but you didn't confirm: they're no taller than the JIS screws, right? Again, I only have a 2 dimensional view. Pretty sure the typical allen heads like you're using in the outer areas of the bearings are too tall to fit behind the advancer.
 
Though I'm not a big fan, those are small cap-heads - but you didn't confirm: they're no taller than the JIS screws, right? Again, I only have a 2 dimensional view. Pretty sure the typical allen heads like you're using in the outer areas of the bearings are too tall to fit behind the advancer.
Pardon me I misunderstood. I was reading it as comparing the length of screw, not the cap heads. I can check this tonight when I get home.
 
Pardon me I misunderstood. I was reading it as comparing the length of screw, not the cap heads. I can check this tonight when I get home.
There's limited clearance behind the advancer, and I know that the standard allen heads are too tall which is why I wondered about the cap-style allens you're using. They look shorter but of course, depth is difficult to be sure of in this medium.
 
Would you happen to know what size e-clips go on the posts, that hold the weights? I had one randomly fall off tonight. I replaced my loose ones with some from Ace Hardware, I guess they didn’t fit right. All I would need is a measurement of the post in millimeters I think.
In putting the AAU back together on my CL350K3, I messed up one of the e-clips. These AAU's were purchased assemblies that Honda got from their supplier(s). They never serviced the pieces individually, and the assemblies are NLA. I found the proper size e-clips to be McMaster Carr part number 98543A103. For US $2.85, I now have a lifetime supply of 100 pieces, less the 2 that I have used. They are still available, but inflation has pushed the price to $3.55 for 100 pieces.



To make the shipping cost worthwhile, I ordered a few bits of feeler gage stock. They have this in 12 inch lengths at whatever thickness you desire. I picked up a couple each at .002", .004", and .006" (I set my Honda valves at .002" intake, .004" exhaust. I set my Triumph valves at .004" intake and .006" exhaust.) All six pieces came to less than US $5.00 back then.
 
Everyone addressed the concerns I had when I caught up to this thread just now. I'm assuming the new seal is in the cam bearing flush with the surface of the back of the housing. I'm also assuming, based on the pictures, that the allen head cap screws you used are no taller than the JIS screws you removed, seems to be the case in 2D vision. And yes, the e-clips are metric sized, too bad you don't have a spare unit to steal one from.
Out of curiousity, I searched online for a spare. I have always seen these assembly units for $100+. I couldn’t help but buy this when I saw the price, even if it’s average condition. If my eyes serve me right, it looks like that center cylinder is installed 180 degrees backwards.

I remember your fiberglass incident with Bobco.

 
Out of curiousity, I searched online for a spare. I have always seen these assembly units for $100+. I couldn’t help but buy this when I saw the price, even if it’s average condition. If my eyes serve me right, it looks like that center cylinder is installed 180 degrees backwards.

I remember your fiberglass incident with Bobco.

Well hopefully he ships it in something other than home insulation. Yeah, the breaker cam lobe does appear to be 180° off, it's easy to do if you grab that first to remove the advancer unit and the main portion sticks on the shaft and the cam pulls off alone. This is the simple mistake so many make when they don't notice how it was before it came off, but the good news is it's a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. Which totally means I'll pick the wrong way first, just like 80% to 90% of the time I plug in a USB device.
 
Out of curiousity, I searched online for a spare. I have always seen these assembly units for $100+. I couldn’t help but buy this when I saw the price, even if it’s average condition. If my eyes serve me right, it looks like that center cylinder is installed 180 degrees backwards.

I remember your fiberglass incident with Bobco.

That's great. The cam surface appears to be not as rough as yours too.
 
That's great. The cam surface appears to be not as rough as yours too.
Once again, I appreciate all of the help. I just got done lightly sanding the camshaft and inner cylinder on the Advancer, then applied some oil. Slid right on.

The cap on the Allen screws are short enough for clearance.

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Still missing the aftermarket e-clip that flew off. The “new” advancer unit will be here Tuesday. Just have to compare condition of each, and make a decision.
 
Still missing the aftermarket e-clip that flew off. The “new” advancer unit will be here Tuesday. Just have to compare condition of each, and make a decision.
If we knew that the 350s and 450s used the same size e-clip, I would be more than happy to mail you a few of the ones I got from McMaster-Carr. If you want to PM me your mailing address, I can send you some and then we will know if they fit both models. I've had a pair of them on my CL350K3 for thousands of miles with no problems. On the other hand, maybe you don't need any more clips if you have another complete advance unit on its way to you.

I am reminded of a time when a guy was desperate to get the two little screws that hold a Honda speedometer face in place. He had searched everywhere and couldn't find them in the right diameter and thread pitch. I tore apart an old junk speedo that I had and mailed the screws to him in a regular business letter envelope. When he got the envelope, it had two little holes in the paper and no screws left inside. The screws were probably left jamming up the works at the US postal service sorting center I guess that was a bad idea. o_O
 
If we knew that the 350s and 450s used the same size e-clip, I would be more than happy to mail you a few of the ones I got from McMaster-Carr. If you want to PM me your mailing address, I can send you some and then we will know if they fit both models. I've had a pair of them on my CL350K3 for thousands of miles with no problems. On the other hand, maybe you don't need any more clips if you have another complete advance unit on its way to you.

I am reminded of a time when a guy was desperate to get the two little screws that hold a Honda speedometer face in place. He had searched everywhere and couldn't find them in the right diameter and thread pitch. I tore apart an old junk speedo that I had and mailed the screws to him in a regular business letter envelope. When he got the envelope, it had two little holes in the paper and no screws left inside. The screws were probably left jamming up the works at the US postal service sorting center I guess that was a bad idea. o_O
Sending you a PM!
 
If we knew that the 350s and 450s used the same size e-clip, I would be more than happy to mail you a few of the ones I got from McMaster-Carr. If you want to PM me your mailing address, I can send you some and then we will know if they fit both models. I've had a pair of them on my CL350K3 for thousands of miles with no problems. On the other hand, maybe you don't need any more clips if you have another complete advance unit on its way to you.

I am reminded of a time when a guy was desperate to get the two little screws that hold a Honda speedometer face in place. He had searched everywhere and couldn't find them in the right diameter and thread pitch. I tore apart an old junk speedo that I had and mailed the screws to him in a regular business letter envelope. When he got the envelope, it had two little holes in the paper and no screws left inside. The screws were probably left jamming up the works at the US postal service sorting center I guess that was a bad idea. o_O
Poor guy, I bet he was inconsolable. Never underestimate the diabolical destructiveness of the USPS.
 
Out of curiousity, I searched online for a spare. I have always seen these assembly units for $100+. I couldn’t help but buy this when I saw the price, even if it’s average condition. If my eyes serve me right, it looks like that center cylinder is installed 180 degrees backwards.

I remember your fiberglass incident with Bobco.

One small point of clarification for the record if anyone is keeping score…
I am very familiar with AD’s infamous purchase from an unscrupulous parts dealer in the past where the packing material was home insulation. While indeed a shoddy manner of doing business, this was NOT from Bobco. I have personally bought many parts from David Bobco and he is a pleasure to deal with and has impeccable packaging along with very fair deals on quality parts. You can buy with utmost confidence from Bobco.
 
One small point of clarification for the record if anyone is keeping score…
I am very familiar with AD’s infamous purchase from an unscrupulous parts dealer in the past where the packing material was home insulation. While indeed a shoddy manner of doing business, this was NOT from Bobco. I have personally bought many parts from David Bobco and he is a pleasure to deal with and has impeccable packaging along with very fair deals on quality parts. You can buy with utmost confidence from Bobco.
Thanks for clarifying that. I have bought from
him one time before, with no issues.
 
Thanks for clarifying that. I have bought from
him one time before, with no issues.
Chris is absolutely right, now that I think about it I remember the guy I bought that set of transmission shafts and gears from. He runs a FB group that I got booted from for telling the truth.
 
I believe there is a connector missing that goes to my rear right turn signal. It’s not on the bolt. Picture of left for reference.

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The second picture shows what looks like a non-Honda terminal on the ground wire. I looked them up, thinking Honda must have riveted the ground wire to the black bracket the signal mounts on and is retained by the big fender bolt, but it shows a ground wire with a ring terminal (#19). I just don't ever recall seeing Honda use a mount bolt out in the open like that for a ground wire, seems odd.

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The second picture shows what looks like a non-Honda terminal on the ground wire. I looked them up, thinking Honda must have riveted the ground wire to the black bracket the signal mounts on and is retained by the big fender bolt, but it shows a ground wire with a ring terminal (#19). I just don't ever recall seeing Honda use a mount bolt out in the open like that for a ground wire, seems odd.

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If everything checks out as an OEM setup, then I’ll see about repairing that cut wire or seeing if I can find a new one.
 
If everything checks out as an OEM setup, then I’ll see about repairing that cut wire or seeing if I can find a new one.
The way the parts fiche displays them, I'd say just crimp a ring terminal of proper size to the existing wire and bolt it together the way it shows in the fiche. I'm amazed I didn't recall them being that way on my CL450K4 in high school and I put the bike together myself - I bought it in the crate and assembled it at my parents' house. Then again I pulled all the turn signals off it because back then, just as now, I don't care for them on a bike. But that means I would have removed the rear ones because they always came on the bike in the crate, only the front ones had to be assembled. Can't believe I don't remember.
 
The way the parts fiche displays them, I'd say just crimp a ring terminal of proper size to the existing wire and bolt it together the way it shows in the fiche. I'm amazed I didn't recall them being that way on my CL450K4 in high school and I put the bike together myself - I bought it in the crate and assembled it at my parents' house. Then again I pulled all the turn signals off it because back then, just as now, I don't care for them on a bike. But that means I would have removed the rear ones because they always came on the bike in the crate, only the front ones had to be assembled. Can't believe I don't remember.
This means that we are all here together learning something new everyday lol. Here soon I’ll be swapping out the hacked up wiring harness, for the one that Brody sent. Maybe I can snag a matching ring terminal off of the old one.
 
My CL350 K3 and my CB450 K3 both have ground wires with ring terminals connected to the mounting bolt (#24), on the bottom, under the nut and washer.
 
The way the parts fiche displays them, I'd say just crimp a ring terminal of proper size to the existing wire and bolt it together the way it shows in the fiche. I'm amazed I didn't recall them being that way on my CL450K4 in high school and I put the bike together myself - I bought it in the crate and assembled it at my parents' house. Then again I pulled all the turn signals off it because back then, just as now, I don't care for them on a bike. But that means I would have removed the rear ones because they always came on the bike in the crate, only the front ones had to be assembled. Can't believe I don't remember.
I can't believe how many little details you do remember on all these models from back then.
 
I can't believe how many little details you do remember on all these models from back then.
Yeah I guess, but from my perspective it's crazy (and a little bit discouraging) when something like that comes up that I would normally have given Honda more credit than they deserved for thinking they would never have done it that way, much too simple, and that I wouldn't have recalled it with so many I touched all over the bike during that period. At least I do have a fair amount of stuff still accessible stashed in my coconut.
 
Any way for me to remove the black bracket to let it soak in rust remover? It’s gotten some interesting material on the back of it to say the least.

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The post on the bracket is part of the bracket. What is supposed to be removable is the turn signal housing, which is clamped to the post (looks like you already removed that bolt). You ought to be able to work the housing off the post with a little twisting back and forth.
 
The post on the bracket is part of the bracket. What is supposed to be removable is the turn signal housing, which is clamped to the post (looks like you already removed that bolt). You ought to be able to work the housing off the post with a little twisting back and forth.
It is solid as a rock. Lol. It’s so stuck it feels like one solid unit. Time for some WD40 and persuasion
 
Your picture shows the hole where the ground wire is supposed to be routed. It should pass discretely through the hole I marked with the red arrow and along the stalk, nearly out of sight. That is probably why Tom did not remember the ground wire with the ring terminal.



In your earlier picture, the wire was routed incorrectly outside the bracket.




WD40 may help, but PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench are far better penetrants.
 
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