Valve adjustment CX500C

vdotmatrix

vdotmatrix

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Service manual says to turn the crank clockwise to align the TL timing marks and so on. So when sitting on the bike facing forward clockwise is clockwide, but when facing the radiator, rotating the crank is now counter clockwise.

Correct?
 
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Probably you should wait for confirmation from someone who has firsthand experience with this motor, but I believe it should be turned clockwise as you face the front of the motor. The crank should be turned in the normal running direction for the motor so that the tensioner works as designed.
 
stl360+450 said:
Probably you should wait for confirmation from someone who has firsthand experience with this motor, but I believe it should be turned clockwise as you face the front of the motor. The crank should be turned in the normal running direction for the motor so that the tensioner works as designed.
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this is from the manual but i have notes that are conflicted.
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I believe the rotation direction is generally given as if you are facing the object being rotated, as you would be while turning it. Hopefully one of the CX500 owners will confirm before too long.
 
It’s clockwise as you’re facing it.

Do you have the timing/adjustment tool? Screws into the spark plug hole to find exact TDC?

If not you can do it with a straw as well. Rotate near T, drop the straw in and watch it rise and fall. Find the top using this and adjust. Make sure you’re on compression stroke too, it’ll be right after the intake valve closes.
 
EzPete said:
It’s clockwise as you’re facing it.

Do you have the timing/adjustment tool? Screws into the spark plug hole to find exact TDC?

If not you can do it with a straw as well. Rotate near T, drop the straw in and watch it rise and fall. Find the top using this and adjust. Make sure you’re on compression stroke too, it’ll be right after the intake valve closes.
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I am not adjusting the timing, i am just turning the crank to get to TDC so I can adjust the valves. I just want to be sure I am turning it the right way . EZ, do you have a CX? You turn the crank and wait for the TL mark to align in the side inspection hole window, you would know this as an owner. I just need to verify the right direction to turn the crank. Thank you!
 
vdotmatrix said:
I am not adjusting the timing, i am just turning the crank to get to TDC so I can adjust the valves. I just want to be sure I am turning it the right way . EZ, do you have a CX? You turn the crank and wait for the TL mark to align in the side inspection hole window, you would know this as an owner. I just need to verify the right direction to turn the crank. Thank you!
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I have three (including the GL, same engine). The tool I’m speaking of is precisely for the valve adjustment. It’s to find TDC - particularly because aligning the mark with the point off the pickup can be tricky depending on your angle (even trickier if you’ve put a RaeSan in and removed the pickups).

You turn it clockwise as you’re facing the longitudinal axis of the crank.
 
EzPete said:
I have three (including the GL, same engine). The tool I’m speaking of is precisely for the valve adjustment. It’s to find TDC - particularly because aligning the mark with the point off the pickup can be tricky depending on your angle (even trickier if you’ve put a RaeSan in and removed the pickups).

You turn it clockwise as you’re facing the longitudinal axis of the crank.
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Cool.
So In 45 years I adjusted the valves countless number of times … but not in a long time.
The valve(s) are tight and need adjusting.

I turned the crank until the TL mark aligned for the left cylinder and adjusted the time chain adjuster. And noted that both rockers were not loose. The intake clearance was way tighter than .003. I turned the crank another revolution to align the TR mark….same thing. I should probably see how tight the valves are (go-no go).

i would think the sound I hear when the engine first starts after a while sounds like a sneeze then the engine runs right. This must be a symptom for a valve adjustment.
 
Something is not right.
I carefully aligned the TR with the mark and verified the compression stroke on the right side as I can see the head And watched an aluminum welding rod come up to the highest point through the spark plug hole. Rockers not loose. BUT at the same time, the left cylinder, with the piston way down, has its rockers loose.

any ideas?

what if i dont know my @#$ from a hole in the ground and I am turning the crank in the wrong direction, could this explain this?
 
vdotmatrix said:
I turned the crank until the TL mark aligned for the left cylinder and adjusted the time chain adjuster. And noted that both rockers were not loose. The intake clearance was way tighter than .003. I turned the crank another revolution to align the TR mark….same thing. I should probably see how tight the valves are (go-no go).
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The next time you run into no clearance when looking for TDC of the compression stroke on either cylinder, turn the crank around one more time to the same position and you should be in business.
 
vdotmatrix said:
Service manual says to turn the crank clockwise to align the TL timing marks and so on. So when sitting on the bike facing forward clockwise is clockwide, but when facing the radiator, rotating the crank is now counter clockwise.

Correct?
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Though most of us know what bike you're working on by this point, please remember to mention it or add the bike to your signature so others in the future will know right away.
 
vdotmatrix said:
It is not running right. It has always run right…i will make a video soon.
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Were you doing the valve adjustment as a maintenance item, or was there an issue that led you to the clearances being off?
Did you measure the valve clearances prior to adjusting? Sometimes having a pre-adjustment measurement can help track down underlying issues like a bent rod.

The ignitions on this model are kind of the weak point, quite often the low-speed pickup failing, so you're going to want to grab pictures of the coils, the igniter boxes (look for swelling and obvious signs of heat damage - they're pretty obvious when they fail) and may have to test the CDI box itself.

It's sounded like you've been riding the bike somewhat regularly, so it's less likely to be carbs - get all the mechanical and electrical checks out f the way before battling the voodoo tubes.
 
EzPete said:
Were you doing the valve adjustment as a maintenance item, or was there an issue that led you to the clearances being off?
Did you measure the valve clearances prior to adjusting? Sometimes having a pre-adjustment measurement can help track down underlying issues like a bent rod.

The ignitions on this model are kind of the weak point, quite often the low-speed pickup failing, so you're going to want to grab pictures of the coils, the igniter boxes (look for swelling and obvious signs of heat damage - they're pretty obvious when they fail) and may have to test the CDI box itself.

It's sounded like you've been riding the bike somewhat regularly, so it's less likely to be carbs - get all the mechanical and electrical checks out f the way before battling the voodoo tubes.
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Because of the sneezing, i thought it must be a valve thing. They were a little off and adjusted them…..go no go.

now i am concerned i could have bumped one of those pilot screws But dont jnow how much this would ** stuff up….

I switched out the CDI ignition back in 2006 I think, turned into a whole different bike! The issue i was having, a minor issue i thought, was before my ankle surgery, I would start the bike no problem. Then after maybe 10 seconds it would sneeze or make a “Pffffft” sound, like a hiccup, then the rpms would increase and idle smoothly.

now, instead of one sneeze, i counted as many as 2-3. Doesnt want to advance without coaxing and that makes it not road worthy right now…

i heard this only on the right side cylinder….i replaced the right side intake insulator, the right side valve cover needs an insert. The right hand side ahhhhh.

i might take everything off again and examine the carb cables. The choke seems to be adjust ok.
 
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vdotmatrix said:
I switched out the CDI ignition back in 2006 I think, turned into a whole different bike!
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20 years is a long time for some electronics. No experience on the ignition system on these bikes but helped a lot of people when I worked part time at an auto parts store with ghost issues that ended up being bad ignition modules and pickup coils.
 
Hmmm. I’d still want to rule out electronics or ignition related, before diving into the carbs.

I’d start by switching the coils around and see if the problem moves. Since that’s a wasted spark system it’s as easy as flipping the leads. But it kind of sounds like it might be running on one cylinder - do the header pipes get equally as hot as fast?
 
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