Steve's 79 CM400A

[Maraakate]

This is a continuation of @79CM400A thread here. We talked via PM for a bit and setup a time for me to come out to Bellefonte and pick up his 79 CM400A and see what's up with it. Not too bad, a 2 1/2 hour drive.

The bike is in very nice shape. Whoever owned it before did take care of it. (Note: took the sidecovers off while driving the bike home so they wouldn't have a possibility of flying off down the highway).



Hard to tell in this picture (and I have a better one later in this thread), but the parking brake cable is routed OUTSIDE of the carb. This is wrong, and a sign that the carbs have come off before which means I need to look them over very carefully:


A couple of things stuck out. The left side carb is leaking:


The right-side spark plug cap was barely hanging on (credit to @79CM400A for pulling the wire off to show me this) and it's at the end of it's useful snipping back. Will order a DynaTek DC11-2. In the meantime I got it to barely fit enough to start it up.


Rough running. Started it up and right side is somewhat sporadic. Extreme lag on the throttle. I tested the pilot mixture screws and the left side works as it should but the right side does not respond at all.

https://imgur.com/a/9QZQzfs

Looked down and saw the drain plugs were still there, pulled them, but nothing really came out (a good thing).


From here I went to take the air box cover off and noticed one screw was rounded off:


Got it out and well, it's a K&N filter and it's also NOT oiled. I will be ordering an Emgo filter. In the meantime, I put my own filter on there quick to test it out and it does run better but the idle hunts all over the place. To be expected with the right side partially plugged.


Checked the brake fluid, it has been replaced recently. However, I will drain and convert to DOT5/Silicone soon.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Drained the gas out of the tank so I can put it away and not worry about it getting damaged.


Mice were in the frame at one point. Frame is in overall good shape, so I don't think they were there too long.


Despite that, the bike was stored well. I almost never see the sticker, let alone the markings, on the main wire harness.


Left grip is pulled too far out. Will take a heat gun to remove the grips and re-do it. I also noticed the bushings for the handlebars are shrunk and there's quite a bit of play. Will get those ordered.


Picture of that parking brake routing I was mentioning.


Tomorrow I will do a proper compression test, though it sounds like it was running fine so I don't expect any nasty surprises. From here it will be ordering parts, mostly carbs parts to start with, the ignition coil and caps, the bushings. Need to check the swingarm bushings, drive chain/sprockets (may be original, but slack was adjusted fairly well), and front forks.

Overall though, it seems pretty good. Mostly just in need of a proper tune-up/do-over from years of sitting.

 

[Maraakate]

A lot of work done today and this will be multiple posts. There are more than 100 pictures and I may not get a chance to get it all tonight. Apologies in advance for long load times and bandwidth.

I took more pictures than usual because there does not seem to be any guide out there on how to remove the carburetors properly. I've explained it quite a few times, but it is kind of hard to visualize. So, let's get started.

Loosen the two air box clamps.


Loosen them enough so you can push them all the way back, like this.


Remove the battery and push the starter solenoid out of the boot and out of the way.


Remove the three bolts that hold the battery tray in place. There will also be a fourth bolt hiding by the brake switch. Be careful when removing it because there is a collar that goes with it that is easy to lose.


I like to put the three bolts for the battery tray back in place so they don't get lost.


Remove the tool tray. There is a special washer that goes with it under the fender. I like to put partially thread them together once removed so it doesn't get lost.



Disconnect the rear fender sub-harness.


Notice on this bike that the wire is running along the left side in this picture. That is wrong. The harness routes in between those two bolts that hold the fender in place. This is a clue that someone who did not know these bikes very well had it apart before.



Remove the two acorn bolts that hold the book rack in place.


Remove the acorn nuts that hold the book rack on place that are on the shocks.


Set it all aside.


Once again, I put the bolts back where they came from loosely so I don't lose them, but also so I remember where they go.


Remove the two final bolts holding the fender in place.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Again, replacing the bolts into the part it came off of (or on the frame if applicable) to prevent them being lost. There's quite a number of bolts here.


Remove the bolt that holds the plastic splash shield in place. There is a special nut on the backside. Sometimes these get really rusty and are very hard to get off. I use an electronic impact drill and that usually works, but sometimes you'll have to hold the special nut with a pair of vice grips and just work back and forth slowly.



Remove the single bolt holding the air box in place. There is a collar between the box and frame and a special washer. Don't lose them. Again, I put them together so it doesn't get lost.




On the left side of the bike there are two tabs for holding the stator and change relay harnesses in place. Pull the tabs toward you and pull part of the wiring out of the way. You don't have to remove the wiring, just enough to get access to a bolt behind them.


This bolt also has a collar, so be careful when removing it.



Now you can simply push the air box back. Plenty of room to remove the carbs!


To remove the carbs start by loosening the two 12mm head bolts on each of the engine mounts and remove the 14mm head bolt and nut that join them together.



(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Here's a trick. Push the engine mount all the way up and lightly snug it. Put the other 12mm bolt head back in and the 14mm bolt head and nut combo through the cylinder head engine mount. Keeps everything out of the way and keeps it organized for reassembly.


Loosen the screw for the choke assembly just enough to push it to the side and pop the cable out. Be careful. Almost every one of these I see is boogered up. Use a T-Handle if you have to. I then snug it back up so it doesn't get lost.



Just for reference, on reassembly the choke cable goes UNDER the bracket. A while back when esh still had his 400T I found that they router the cable above that bracket and it was causing the choke to be partially engaged all the time.


Loosen the intake insulator clamps enough so you can push them back.


If you didn't do so already then drain the carbs and remove the drain hoses from the carbs.



Push the carbs out and to the left.




Remove the choke cable.


Set the throttle cable slack all the way IN (loose) on the throttle.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Use two 10mm wrenches to loosen and remove the throttle cables from the carbs.






Now you can remove the carbs!


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

The following is not intended to replace Jim's VB carb rebuild guide. Rather, it's a supplement and also to show some dumb things to look out for when working on these.

Remove the CV piston tops. Notice on this one someone goofed up the screws. Use a T-Handle for this.


Inspect that you got the correct coloured piston stopper and that it was installed properly. For a Hondamatic carb they are black and this one is oriented correctly.


Push left and right on the needle. It should wiggle around. If not, then someone probably stacked washers in there and did not machine a counterbore. This is OK for testing, but is incorrect for long term use and will damage the jet needles. They are not available anymore and the ones in carb kits are no good.




Remove the nylon stopper from the CV piston.


Remove the threaded insert that holds the needle in place and remove the needle.


Strange, someone added a spring to preload the needle!


Needle removed.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Remove the nylon piston stop. Note the correct orientation for reassembly.


Remove the nylon air bleed piece. You can unscrew it most of the way, yet the screw will stay in. Useful so you don't lose parts.


More boogered screws on the float bowls.




Boogered screw on the top bracket. Also note the orientation of this bracket.


Orientation of the bottom bracket.


When you remove the float bowls check that the raise guides (unsure this term, someone please correct me and I will edit) on the float bowls are still there. I have seen people try to force these on and they break off. If that happens you can probably still use them for a while, but you really should seek out new float bowls. Notice how I put the float bowl screws in the bowls. I will do this for the pieces that came off. Useful to stay organized.


Bowls off, ready to start the tear down.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Remove the floats. I use a pick tool, but you can use a drift. DO NOT USE PLIERS. REPEAT - ⚠⚠⚠ WEE OHH WEE OHH WEE OHH DO NOT USE PLIERS. Why? Because you will leave marks in the float pin and when reinstalling you may cause the stantations to break! DON'T DO IT! STEAL A VERY TINY NAIL OFF SOMETHING IF YOU HAVE TO!


Severely worn float valve. No wonder it was leaking. If you see deep ridges like this then it is trashed.


Remove the passage plug. If it's basically a solid piece of plastic then it is also garbage. 4into1 and SCI have new ones.


Remove the primary jet. It's the one NOT threaded in the jet needle holder.


This jet is always somewhere around ~65-75. If it's triple digit like 105-120 it is in the wrong place. The 105-120 numbered jets go into the jet needle holder. Remember this on reassembly. Many get it wrong. Check the number on disassembly. On this jet we have a 65. The correct number for this year carbs. If it's one number over that means someone did the mid-range jet improvement. Make sure it has the Keihin marking on the jet. If it doesn't then someone used a carb kit and you really need to get the original jet. These jets are mostly still available from Honda, but you can also get them from jetsrus.com.


You need a long and thin screwdriver ground to down to size to remove the emulsion tube properly. WARNING WARNING DANGER WILL ROBINSON !!!⚠⚠⚠⚠. No joke here! Get the right tool or snap the ears off that emulsion tube and then get mad because the easy-out breaks and now you've ruined the carbs! Read this over multiple times. I know it sucks waiting a couple of days from Amazon for a screwdriver you need to use one time, but the danger is real. Happens all the time. Don't be that person. Unless spending $300 for destroyed used carbs that came out of an archeological dig on eBay is your idea of fun!!!


The tool should fit in there nice and snug. If it doesn't then grind down the screwdriver until it does.


Emulsion tube removed. If you cannot get it to come out, then STOP and I will go over a technique later in this thread!


Take a 7mm wrench and break the jet needle holder free, but do not remove it yet.


Now break free the main jet from the needle jet holder.


Inspect the jet. Here we have a 110. The proper number for this year carb. Make sure it has the Keihin marking on the jet. If it doesn't then someone used a carb kit and you really need to get the original jet. These jets are mostly still available from Honda, but you can also get them from jetsrus.com.


Needle jet holder.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Remove the pilot mixture screw. Keep the carbs held upside down or you risk losing the tiny spring and washer.


Get a straight pick tool and bend the tip slightly with a pair of needle nose.


Remove the spring with the pick tool and put it on the pilot mixture screw so it doesn't get lost.


Remove the washer and o-ring with the pick tool. They're both in there. Don't be lazy. Get them both out!


Shine the pilot mixture screw up to the light. If the tip is bent in any way then replace the mixture screw. It's still available from Honda. This one is in good shape.


If you did not do so already, then remove the fuel line.


Sometimes they're really stuck on there. Try a heat gun. If the heat gun is "no joy" then just use a razor blade to cut it off.


Remove the outer air cut off valve cover. Inspect the screws. These ones are good.


Note the spring on these. The later years are tapered. You've disturbed the o-ring so buy a new air cut off valve set. 4into1 and SCI has them. It's not worth paying the $80-$120 to get OEM. A rare moment for me where I say the aftermarket is fine to use.


Loosen the 8mm head nut for the sync screw.


Make sure the adjuster moves in and out freely without the nut moving with it. These are glued from the factory, almost nobody does a carb sync, and they can get rusty. Do it right. Make sure it's all free and clean now so you do not *****, moan, and complain when it's time to sync your carbs.


Note the two washers and the spring. This is how it goes back together. A lot of people get this wrong on reassembly and get crazy throttle.


I put the nut back on so it doesn't get lost.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Get a tap and a machine screw to fit the pressed in idle jet.

Grease it up and tap it in.

Thread the machine screw in.

I heat it up with a heat gun first for a minute or two and then try to remove it.

If it doesn't come out there is a way.

What I'm about to show you is potentially dangerous and if you don't do this outside then DON'T DO IT.

WARNING: SAFETY AND COMMON SENSE AND PATIENCE REQUIRED. IF YOU DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS WRONG YOU WILL RUIN YOUR CARBURETORS PERMANENTLY AND COULD ALSO CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE.

THIS IS NOT A JOKE. IF YOU FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE DOING THIS THEN GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT FOR YOU. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU DON'T FOLLOW THE STEPS CORRECTLY.

Remove the idle adjuster knob.

Note the washer orientation for reassembly.

REMOVE ANY AND ALL PLASTIC PIECES, JETS, NEEDLES, AIR CUT OFF VALVES, EVERYTHING. NOW IN THE NEXT STEP I REASSEMBLED THE CARBS AFTER REMOVING THE INNER AIR CUT OFF VALVE COVER SO IT WAS EASIER FOR ME TO HOLD THE CARBS. YOU'LL SEE WHY. REMOVE IT ALL.

Get a torch with propane or MAPP gas. DO THIS OUTSIDE.

DO NOT GET THE TORCH ANYWHERE NEAR THE SPRINGS. IT WILL RUIN THE TEMPER OF THE SPRINGS.

Heat it up for like about 30 seconds. You'll see the machine screw get hot. Now just pull it up with a good pair of GLOVES ON and VICE GRIPS.

DON'T TOUCH THE CARBS WITHOUT GLOVES.

Another interesting thing here is that the needle jet will usually fall out or require very minimal pressing with say... a wooden paintbrush.

WEAR THE GLOVES. IF YOU PICK IT UP IT'S GONNA BE HOT.

(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Now we got that out of the way. In one of those pictures you will notice the slow jet was #38. The correct jet for this year. That jet is not in the parts listing so you will need to refer to Jim's VB thread on carb information per year.

A couple of things to note. When I separated the carbs I noticed the fuel crossover tube was pretty nasty from the o-rings over the years. Plan on replacing these.

Check the bracket for the throttle cables as they can get loose. Just tighten it back up with a T-Handle screwdriver. Don't get nuts or you can crack the casing on the carbs.

Comparison of the slow jets. One was a completely plugged which is why the idle was erratic.

I file the burrs off the top of the slow jets from where you run the tap.

To clean the jets you take a high E guitar string through them, carb cleaner, and compressed air. Do this literally 10 times. Yes, 10. Why? Because the brass chips from tapping will lodge their way loose after a while and plug up the idle circuit again. Speaking from experience.

Much better.

(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

When cleaning the large jets check the bottoms to make sure there isn't a bunch of gooed varnish where that taper is. If there is spray and clean it out with a q-tip. This one is clean.

This has been covered before, but I really like showing this method and it's easily overlooked during a rebuild. Check the float bowls for leaks. Start off by removing the drain screw, cleaning up any crud in there with a q-tip where it seats. Inspect the drain screw. If it's corroded buy a new one from 4into1 or SCI. If it's original and it's good (like this one) put a new o-ring on it then grease it up and then reseat it in the bowl. Tighten the screw. Put the bowl in a vice (lightly).

Fill the bowl with mineral spirits. Don't use gas. It smells bad and if it leaks now you got gas everywhere. Mineral spirits is less harmful and works all the same for this test. Get a Mityvac or a knock-off. Put a stopper on the top of the drainpipe, put a drain hose at the bottom of the bowl.

Pump about 5-10 PSI into the bowl. If it loses pressure immediately then check the hoses, make sure they're on good and snug and are the right size. When you pump pressure it should hold it and not slowly taper off. If there's any leaks you will see air bubbles. This is where you need to solder to fix the cracks. These bowls are good and needed no repair.

Another thought. When reseating the pilot mixture screw turn it all the way in lightly until it seats. Make sure it pokes up through there. If it doesn't the tip is snapped and you need a new one. These are good.

(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Pumped grease into the swingarm bushings and they're good.

Other odd things of note. The gear change lever was off a tooth (too high). It's also bent. I'll see if I can get a body shop buddy to bend it back a bit, but may not be possible to do so.

Not sure what this collar was all about, but it doesn't belong there.

Chain has a master link on it which means it is not the original chain. This is good and the chain is in pretty decent shape. I'll take it off, clean it in kerosone, and then relube it.

Fixed gear lever.

Good number of parts ordered, but overall the bike is in great shape.

TODO:

• Carbs need refurbed
• Handlebar bushings need replaced
• Balancer chain adjustment
• Kickstarter and gear change lever seals (they always end up leaking within a year or two once you start putting miles on these old seals)
• Air cleaner
• New band clamps
• New intake insulators (the originals are rock hard/no pliability)
• DynaTek DC11-2 coil
• New spark plug caps
• Cylinder head cover washer grommets (Steve already had the gasket so no need to order that)
• Valve adjustment
• #68 jet for mid-range throttle improvement
• Oil filter
• Ordered the "seat" aka washer that goes between the spring and the oil filter - they're almost always missing, if it's not missing then I'll just keep it on hand for the next bike
• Shell Rotella T4 15W40
• CEC EF32 turn signal relay since the old relays almost always go bad

Once all the parts here should be an enjoyable fix.

 

[Maraakate]

Parts are trickling in. Waiting on a couple more before I finish up the carbs and bolt that back together. In the meantime, I did a brake flush and swap to DOT5/Silicone. I also removed the drive chain, cleaned it in kerosene, hung it up to dry and re-lubed it. The chain had some dirt and superficial surface rust that cleaned up well. Chain is still in good shape and so are the sprockets.

 

[Flyin900]

Frank,

I suspect that heel and toe shifter and collar are not a stock item. I restored a 1984 CM450 one and there was only a toe shifter. Best guess is someone Macgyvered that unit to have the heel feature on there.

Looking good! He will have a nice reliable bike once your done.

 

[Maraakate]

Heel toe shifter is an OEM part unique to 79 CM400A. The collar is some random thing someone added.

 

[Flyin900]

Your right I just checked and it is my mistake.

 

[Maraakate]

That cover came off for paint so the only thing I can gather is they found a random collar on the floor and assumed it went to it. It's not a collar that goes to anything on the bike.

 

[Maraakate]

Had a few moments to swap the intake insulators and drain the oil since I am going to take the torque converter cover off to do the balancer chain adjustment and replace the kickstarter and gear shifter seals.

Surface prepped.


Nice, new, and fresh. New clamps, too.


Draining the oil. Smells very much of gas. Makes sense since the one carb was overflowing for sure.


I've been doing enough of these now that I have totes with everything needed to do a general tune-up. Includes spark plugs, oil filters, drain plug washers, fuses, valve cover gaskets and valve cover grommets.



Make sure you replace the o-ring on the oil filter bolt.


Insert the bolt, then place the spring first...


Then the washer second... If you don't have this washer please order one. Before you panic look on the oil filter. They're usually stuck to them. If it's still missing then someone didn't check the oil filter during an oil change and threw it out.


I grease the seals on the center of the filter then slide it on.


Don't forget to use a new drain plug washer.


With fuel leakage and probably overfilling from improper level check technique almost a full gallon was drained. Just for reference, on a rebuild (which I would say counts the same when you remove the torque converter case) is 3.2 quarts.


If I have time this evening, I will remove the torque converter cover and get that stuff done including valve clearance adjustment. Then we're really just waiting on the screws for the carbs so I can bolt it back on and fire it up.

 

[Maraakate]

Balancer chain adjusted, seals replaced, drive chain aligned, fresh oil, and rear brake set correctly. Tomorrow is valve adjustment and handlebar grommets.

Then we wait for the carb screws and fire it up.

 

[79CM400A]

Like I've said a hundred times, this stuff is way over my head, but it is so fascinating to me to watch someone with your knowledge of these bikes doing what you do so well. This bike was new to me, and I never got to ride it more than a few times because of all the little issues with it, and now I feel like I'm getting a second chance to start over with the bike I thought I bought. There are so many rock stars on this forum, and you are definitely one of them. Thanks, Frank!

 

[Maraakate]

You'll be amazed at how it truly runs. I guarantee it. Very fun and reliable bikes.

 

[Maraakate]

Surprisingly, all the parts came today. Got the valve adjustment done and everything bolted up. Valves were all about 3 thou over on average.

New DynaTek coil soldered, mounted, and plugs gapped.

My dad had this tool sitting around over at his house and I liked it enough I got one for myself. Quick spark plug gapper tool from Snap-On. Good tool that can be found used rather cheap if you do a lot of plugs.


New screws on the carbs where it was needed.


Primed the engine for about 10 seconds with kill switch set to OFF, made sure the oil lamp went out, and fired it up for real. Here it is, started incredibly easy:

Put 40 miles on it, runs great. Needs new rear brake pads, but the rest is solid. Still need to do the handlebar bushings, but with that and the rear brakes it's definitely good to go. Will drive it around over the weekend and make sure it stays running well. Did not do a carb sync yet, but I anticipate it probably doesn't even need to be adjusted. Pilot mixture screws didn't need adjusting either. With the engine having such low miles and high compression it makes sense that there's very little, if at all, compensating needing to be done between the two cylinders.

 

[79CM400A]

Are you sure that's my bike? Man, that sounds smoo-oo-oo-oo-ooth.

 

[Maraakate]

One gotcha did show up and of course probably some chips from tapping the idle jet. Idle getting funny sometimes then recovers. Will be taking them apart again shortly.

This time around I decided it was finally time to bite the bullet and buy an ultrasonic cleaner. I will still hand clean the carbs in their entirety before placing them in ultrasonic and then cleaning again after. This is the one I ordered:

Amazon.com: CREWORKS 15L Ultrasonic Cleaner with Knob, Total 760W Professional Industrial Auto Cleaning Machine for Carburetor Repairing Tools Parts Instrument, 40kHz Digital Sonic Cavitation Cleaner with Heater : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: CREWORKS 15L Ultrasonic Cleaner with Knob, Total 760W Professional Industrial Auto Cleaning Machine for Carburetor Repairing Tools Parts Instrument, 40kHz Digital Sonic Cavitation Cleaner with Heater : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

15L 40khz. Yes, I know you must be careful when buying an ultrasonic cleaner based on the frequency (40 is appropriate for carburetors) and that they tend to cheat on the size. This one is long enough and deep enough that it will work for both carbs.

Besides the hiccups and blubbers that happen at idle sometimes the bike is running well. Ordered that DSS halogen upgrade per Steve's request, rear emgo brake shoes, two bolts for the upper handlebar mount (they were replaced with hardware store bolts and are rusty), and that one screw for the airbox that was pretty well rounded off. Forgot about that one screw, but I did dremel it enough to use a #3 to get it in and out for testing until it shows up.

 

[Maraakate]

Handlebar bushings replaced and boy what a difference. The old ones were shrunk and stuck in the top tree. Had to use a socket and hammer them out.

I also bought a Berryman's Chemdip bucket and disassembled the carbs and been letting them sit in there. I will say that stuff does very well at removing varnish after 30 minutes. Very impressed with it. I will run that back and forth between both carbs and components throughout the day, compressed air multiple times, and the ultrasonic cleaner is coming today as well. Hopefully after the Berryman's chemdip, multiple cleanings with compressed air and guitar strings and the ultrasonic we should finally have that idle circuit clean-clean-clean.

FWIW, for next time I may try locating the "pro" version of Chemdip. It's not available at Autozone. Product number is 1904/1904C. It is a stronger version. Comes in a 4 gallon pail. I bet the local autobody/parts "jobbers" can get it for me if they don't have it already. If I ended up grabbing that at some point for another project I will report back on it. https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pr...ofessional-chem-dip-carburetor-parts-cleaner/

 

[Maraakate]

It does work quite well! Pics to come shortly.

 

[Maraakate]

Did everything it needed to do and took it out 20 miles runs great.

 

[Maraakate]

Over 110 miles on the trip meter since I've been riding it around and still going strong. Waiting on those rear brakes and the DSS headlight then it can go back to Steve.

 

[Maraakate]

Emgo shoes came today. Really like these shoes, they work well.


The shoes on there are the originals and they're completely glazed over. Not a safe riding condition at all.


No picture, but the rubber dampening washer was on the INSIDE of the arm not OUTSIDE. Fixed that.

Just waiting on the misc. hardware and it's ready.

 

[ancientdad]

Good looking brake shoes.

 

[Maraakate]

Yes, I always mess up the terminology. Will edit the post accordingly.

 

[79CM400A]

When I first bought this bike, I told my granddaughter she could ride it - she's 26 and never ridden a motorcycle before - but I never got the chance to do that with her. I told her all about this great rehab Frank is doing on the bike, and that she'll get her chance to ride it after all, and I had to laugh at her response. She's excited, but she said, "When I do ride it, you'll at least follow along behind me, right?". She thinks I'm just going to hand over the key and turn her loose into street traffic, for her first-ever ride on a motorcycle! I told her, "Ummmmmm, no, you're going to ride it in a big empty parking lot, not out on a city street"! (and yes, she will be wearing my helmet).

 

[Maraakate]

Next weekend I should have it back to you. I've been putting it around past few days and runs great. Just need that misc. hardware to finish it up.

 

[79CM400A]

Sounds great, Frank - I can't wait to get on this version of the bike, the way it was meant to run. It got such a rotten start at the "shop" where I had the new tires put on, with the grouchy shop boss who had nothing good to say and zero confidence in the bike. If I was petty, I would ride it to them just to show it off, and show them what a real mechanic can do with it, but they're not worth my time - they will never see it again. I can't even tell you how grateful I am for the work you've done - this bike was my birthday present to myself, and now it's like getting another birthday.

 

[ancientdad]

I told her, "Ummmmmm, no, you're going to ride it in a big empty parking lot, not out on a city street"! (and yes, she will be wearing my helmet).

Yep, that's the way you do it. And if you can borrow about 10 or so traffic cones to set up a chicane for her to learn to weave through and around, that's even better. I used an old defunct bank parking lot to teach one lady to ride.

 

[79CM400A]

Yep, that's the way you do it. And if you can borrow about 10 or so traffic cones to set up a chicane for her to learn to weave through and around, that's even better. I used an old defunct bank parking lot to teach one lady to ride.

There are a couple huge and mostly unused parking lots where she lives (she's an hour from here), but I won't have access to traffic cones. A few years ago I let her drive a 5-speed car there for the first time, too, and she was a natural with that. This is mostly just giving her a chance to feel what a motorcycle feels like, and I'm a little afraid that it might infect her with the biker bug...hahaha. With a CM400A, she gets to feel a bike and not even have to think about a clutch and shifting...just get moving and enjoy the ride.

 

[RobMan]

This is mostly just giving her a chance to feel what a motorcycle feels like, and I'm a little afraid that it might infect her with the biker bug...hahaha.

Watch Out! I never even thought about one of my daughters riding a motorcycle until my oldest reached out a few years ago to ask what bike I would recommend for her. Her husband had recently purchased a bike and she decided she wanted her own. I was bit floored and went through a dad's oh crap moment but not wanting to be a hypocrite we discussed a beginner bike for her. She started out with a 350 Royal Enfield, taking the Riders Safety Course, and went on a cruise with some local law enforcement officers who take beginning riders out to promote safe riding. Anyway she has 2017 Triumph Bonneville Bobber now and recently rode the Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap in the NC/Tennessee mountains. Yep I'm proud of her but the dad part still worries a bit.

 

[2wheel]

. Yep I'm proud of her but the dad part still worries a bit.

I know that feeling, when my son drove out of sight down the road on my KZ1000

Nice job on the refurb @Maraakate .

 

[Maraakate]

DSS parts should be here this week. In the meantime, I went over every terminal connector and put high quality dielectric grease in them. This includes the bulb holders. Wiring is in excellent shape so there was no need to run it through contact cleaner or snip it back and re-crimp.

I can't remember if someone recommended it here or maybe it was BITOG (or even an amateur radio forum), but the NyoGel 760G is the best dielectric grease I've ever used. Stays put and a bit of a different consistency. It's about double the cost of the parts store permatex stuff, but in my opinion there is a big difference.

Amazon.com

 

[Maraakate]

DSS parts are here and will be picking up at the warehouse shortly. Should be going back to Steve this Sunday!

 

[79CM400A]

DSS parts are here and will be picking up at the warehouse shortly. Should be going back to Steve this Sunday!

I'm anxious to see the difference with this new halogen headlight. I don't plan on a lot of night rides (too many critters around here), but that last hour of light is my favorite time, so I'm sure I'll be riding home in the dark now and then.

 

[79CM400A]

Frank brought the bike back today, and I can't believe the difference - it is SO smooth now. It idles like butter, and runs like I'm guessing it did when it was brand new. I took it for about a 30-mile ride and smiled like a little kid the whole time.

Aside from the bike itself, it was an absolute pleasure to meet Frank and to have him work on my bike. As everyone knows, finding a trustworthy mechanic isn't always easy, but finding Frank was like striking gold...he is a top-of-the-line mechanic, and a great guy, too. Thank you, Frank, for giving me a second chance with this bike!

 

[Maraakate]

Enjoy and let me know if you need any other help or advice!

 

[79CM400A]

I've been loving this trouble-free riding since Frank's extensive work on my bike, and I wanted to show you the difference before and after. It's like a whole new bike now:

 

[ancientdad]

I've been loving this trouble-free riding since Frank's extensive work on my bike, and I wanted to show you the difference before and after. It's like a whole new bike now:

Truly clean carbs make a world of difference (along with everything else it needed).

 

[Maraakate]

Really glad you've been having some fun with it now that it's fixed up. Been great riding weather past week.

 

[RobMan]

Sounds sweet. @Maraakate does great work!

 

[79CM400A]

One more note on this bike and then I'll shut up about it:

I just did the first night ride, to check out the new halogen headlight that Frank installed, and wow...what a difference. If you're on the fence about upgrading your stock headlight, and don't want to go the LED route, halogen is highly recommended. Even on low beam it was great, but on high beam I'd be confident riding at night if I ever have to. Good stuff!