Seized Clutch

Wagonwheels

Well-known Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2024
Total Posts
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Location
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A bike that is stored for some time (owner probably servicing carbs, replacing broken pieces or fiddling with spark plugs) will inevitably have a seized clutch.

Its what they do.

So apparently the solution is strip down clutch. remove all the plates, throw the lot into the bin and buy new ones, preferably genuine Honda pieces if you can find them. while there, probably good idea to replace springs just to be sure.

However :cool: there might be a secret liquid that when used instead of oil will release stuck plates like magic without stripping down . Then replace the oil and the clutch works like it should.o_O not a Honda NOS part in sight.

It is a dream I have :rolleyes:

All suggestions gratefully received.

Many Thanks
 
My trick is to hold the clutch lever in while the engine is idling during warmup (my DOHC 450 has to be warmed up at least 1 to 2 full minutes to ensure full oil flow to the expensive top end parts). I alternate between holding the lever in and pulling/releasing the lever a few times while waiting during warmup, and by the time I go to put it into first gear for the first time in a month or so, it is usually freed up by then. If not, the worst thing that happens is it stalls the engine (fingers on the front brake lever just in case), so I restart it and the next time it goes into gear normally.

I have never taken a stuck clutch apart to free the plates. You can also put the bike in second or third gear, engine off, and hold the clutch lever in while rocking the bike forward and backward, and that will often be enough to release the oil suction on the plates.
 
My bike has been stored for about 8 months, maybe more, until this week. Clutch was not stuck. That said, I might consider clamping the lever in the released position if it appears it will be longer. I know the springs won't like it, but as long as it fully engages, it's all good.
 
In my experience, removing the clutch plates and cleaning them with brake cleaner, will remove most of the goo causing the sticking problem. Then reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

Also, back in my dirt bike days (mid 70's) if they were slipping, we would lightly sand the surface of the plates with whatever sandpaper was on hand to remove any gloss and then flipping the plates over from the way they were originally installed.

OR - You can just remove the side cover and spray brake cleaner on the clutch while pulling the lever in, to open gaps in the contact surface. Some would probably say to coat them with oil after cleaning, but since they run in an oil bath I don't really think it is necessary.
 
I have released stuck plates before, in gear, clutch lever in and hey presto! I can stop the rear wheel with my boot, release clutch and it spins, clutch in + boot and the wheel stops spinning...

However this time I don't get the same result, engine labours and stalls:(

OK so if at first you don't succeed ...........:rolleyes:

Many Thanks for your contributions.
 
On project bikes I pull the plates, clean the steels and then soak the fiber disks in oil for a day before reassembly. (Even when they are not stuck). Problem with freeing up a stuck and mostly dry clutch is that you can really blue up the steel until the fiber disks get some oil on them.
 
Last time I freed a stuck clutch I put the bike on the center stand, started her up and used first gear the rear brake and exercised the clutch for a few minutes until all was working well.
 
Mike's mention of using the kickstarter to loosen the clutch is also a good one, works on all but the SL350K1/K2 and XL250/350 from that era (those have primary kickstart).
 
What I have done with my Dream, and I am not sure if this is a good thing to do. My garage is on a hill and I live on a dead-end road with a cul-de-sac, so with the bike running and clutch pulled in, I get it rolling down hill at a good pace click it into first gear and ride slowly and work the clutch and throttle. It freed up for me. However when sitting it would like to stick again. But now after many heat cycles and oil changes I have not had a problem in two years. The bike had sat for seven years. Before even attempting to ride it, I had got it running and warmed it up and changed the oil multiple time.
 
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