Rebuild of my English CB175K6, 1972

Yes, all the alloy parts were grit blasted and then etch primered with UPOL and then silver Hammerite smooth, not sure if these products are sold in the USA
gives a good clean finish that is quite robust.
 
We can get upol here.

Eastwood makes a high temp 2k alumiblast that is a very similar finish. Just shot some cases with it. Really good stuff.

Look like you got a hood product there as well.
 
Great to see you here, you'll recognise some of the familiar old faces. Your latest bike looks immaculate already.

In your last post on the other place, you mention the wiring loom and rectifier and regulator. So far as I know, UK bikes never had a voltage regulator, unlike the US imports.

If you fit a modern regulator rectifier combined unit, that issue is solved, use full generator output all the time.
 
I came to the same conclusion this afternoon when I couldn't find any connectors to match the voltage reg. I think you installed a modern rectifier? I have the stock one in the bike now.
Where mine now is the easy bit, the next stages are much harder, great project tough!
 
Wow, that dark spot really IS the tank totally rusted out. Also, interesting combo of parts on the right side of the handlebar.
 
Yes, some of the not too good parts of the bike!
the tank was put aside, and a lovely solid tank found for £80, now on the bike and all painted in the correct blu.
The twist grip might be off a Royal Enfield, the previous owner had some, but now of course replaced with the right parts.

you might notice the cd 175 cam cover with no tachometer drive, yet thebike had a tachometer of course.
something deep happened to this bike in the past, it was last on the road in 1986 when I think the wheel chain broke looking at the chunks of casting missing by the primary sprocket.

it now has proper cb parts from the USA no less, parts here are getting hard to find.
 
And who wouldn't want a tachometer on a bike? Quite the transformation indeed. Looking forward to seeing more.
 
Hello Graham, nice to see you've bought another CB175. You know me from the 'other' site as the bloke with the CD200 Benly. I'm as mad as you, I got me a CB400N 'cheap' at £700 and have spent 3 grand on it up to now and the engine is still on the bench!

Link to the 'other' site for my build so far if you want a laugh, er, look!

James Adams - My CB400N restoration

Glad you're with us matey and look forward to your mistakes, er, progress :)
 
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Hello again James, so pleased to see the Big British Army on this forum!
Also it is great to have another cb175 on the go, haven't got to starting the blimming thing, that a will be when the fun starts!
 
Back to Honda re-build reality, got the chrome bck today, well pleased.

Looks great and looks blemish-free.
Cost was £330, was quoted by the people I usually use locally £1200+ extra work, so about £900 saved.

Lots suddenly can get done.

Trial fitted the home made side badges also, look far better in the flesh!



 
Richard: They are Restoremychrome based in Hinckley. A 2man band, loads of work waiting, 9 week lead time.
The cost is very low, but it all looks and fells great.
 
Thanks, it does indeed look great.

Your rear mudguard - unless my eyes deceive me, I can't see the mounting holes for the little rubber peak that my old K6 had. My K4 mudguard has the holes, but no peak.

eeVF2BJ.jpg
 
My rear fender is off a 71 USA bike, prob a CL not a UK CB, might answer the question?

Realy hadto ge a decet fender in theUKnow

Why does this forum mess with the typing after the first line every time? I have to keep on correcting almost every word.
 
Ah, I see. You do know that the CL rear guard is quite a bit wider than the CB one, to cover the 3.25 section rear tyre in the CL. It still fits the K6 frame though.

And yes, I sometimes experience problems, site doesn't always keep up with my typing, seems fine at this instant.

Also the rear light bracket is different. Here's a pic of a UK K6 that I found online.

cb175k6 -2.jpg
 
911hillclimber said:
My rear fender is off a 71 USA bike, prob a CL not a UK CB, might answer the question?

Realy hadto ge a decet fender in theUKnow

Why does this forum mess with the typing after the first line every time? I have to keep on correcting almost every word.
Click to expand...

I can assure you it isn't the forum. I have an issue with capitals, I hold the shift key as I should and when I look back at my sentence quite often some of the words aren't capitalized that I know I did properly. There is nothing in the forum software that "messes" with text. What browser are you using? What operating system? I did often wondered why some words were misspelled but I wasn't going to be critical... I suppose that explains it to some degree.
 
It is as Richard says, you type and it misses some characters out, the sentence can also flicker!
Not using Chrome.
 
I've learnt to live with it. Doesn't happen on other fora.

It doesn't happen all the time, it is at the moment, depends on internet traffic perhaps. 8:19 am UK time, how does that compare with peak demand in the US ?

I've had to back space and retype umpteen times in the last 3 sentences.
 
I've had this once before several years ago on another forum, and it went away one day and never came back!
As a trial, I'm typing this on the thread on VHT but opened on Chrome, and this sentence is PERFECT!

Bad news for all is I'll write far far more...
Seems the prob is solved. :)
 
911hillclimber said:
I've had this once before several years ago on another forum, and it went away one day and never came back!
As a trial, I'm typing this on the thread on VHT but opened on Chrome, and this sentence is PERFECT!

Bad news for all is I'll write far far more...
Seems the prob is solved. :)
Click to expand...

We don't have a problem with you writing more... whether or not it gets read is a different story. :dizzy:

Glad the issue is solved. Just as our vintage bikes can be troublesome, so can the intricate combinations of computer, browser, internet connection and forum software. (y)
 
​Note this line that appears above the Reply box.
NOTICE: We have detected you are using Chrome web browser. If the space bar does not work when entering text below press the Enter key first and the space bar should work again.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
​Note this line that appears above the Reply box.
NOTICE: We have detected you are using Chrome web browser. If the space bar does not work when entering text below press the Enter key first and the space bar should work again.
Click to expand...

Interestingly, I've gotten to ignoring that because it never affected my use of Chrome once, but it's a valid point.
 
Needing a bit of relief from the 'Garage saga' and my ill Skoda Superb, and with the rain, it was the perfect day to do a bit now the chrome was here, no excuses.

Pictures hopefully say more than my clumsy words, but started with a 'mojo' lift and got the chrome on the rear first.

All went well, the indicator mounts are a bit special but with many parts now NLA had to improvise and get the same result. These Hondas vibrate so many parts are rubber insulated, so important to try and do the same.
Rear done (wheel etc on tomorrow) the front forks came next which is a bit delicate with all the paintwork and chrome, but again, all went well. Instruments on the brackets all tight and damper fork oil in. Had a leak, so fixed that and all together. The front fender was a bit tedious as it was not made for this bike, originals NLA years ago.

Made a school-boy error on the forks, wrong way round... so took it all apart and did it again...…

Hope to get all tomorrow on the bike again tomorrow, plan is to mount both wheels, run the cables and stare at the wires again that somehow fit in the headlamp, goodness knows where they all go.
Finally, fit the emblems to the side panels for good.
Looking like a bike!







 
Thank you.

Managed a few more hours in the garage over the last days adding more parts, adding stainless washers everywhere (rust free) and even shake-proof washers in hot places where I'm not sure a nyloc would survive.
This stuff takes ages, but progressing.

Installed the rear wheel and all brake links, tedious in the tight spaces, centre stand on and return springs ordered.
On the left side could finally mount the one half of the exhaust with copper plated shake proof nuts on the so delicate looking M7 studs (all new).
Stainless clamp of course and silicon to seal the joint (high temp spec, not B&Q).

Clutch cable in with small tensioner spring (typical Honda detail which make these classics so nice), chain on, new, and chain guard all on.
Keep on looking at the wires, hate electrics, so putting that off until it is unavoidable.

Hope to do the front wheel with its fancy TLS drum, cables an speedo cable too. Cables came from Taiwan and are superb quality, even have the plastic anti-rattle sleeves on the handle bar ends, so nice and 1/2 price of anything in the UK.







 
Can you provide a bit more detail on the engine finish. About to strip and rebuild a cm250n engine and would like a finish as good as yours. I’m aware there are several methods, but a brief explanation of the system would be good.
any others can dive in too. But some detail would be good.
 
My approach is simple as i don't have too many facilities, and don't like using specialists.
I have a small grit blasting cabinet that you can get the split crankcases into as individual parts, and a small compressor that will just about paint a car.
Process:
Split the engine down completely and de-grease and de-oil with paraffin and a brush. Allow to dry, leave the lip seals in place.
The grit I use is fine and a I add soda too, about 20% soda to the grit. The grit I use has already done 3 bikes so is 'blunt'.
Blast the part as best as access allows. In England a lot of salt is spread over the roads and this is very corrosive, this bike was pitted in most 'underside' places.
Remove the castings, remove the lip seals and wash in fresh paraffin to remove most of the trapped grit. The grit gets everywhere so great care is needed esp the oil ways.

Wash the castings in cellulose thinners and detail the castings to remove the debris in tight corners, grooves and nooks.
Blast/flush all the areas with aerosol brake cleaner, wash in cellulose thinners again.

Mask all mating surfaces off very neatly inc the engine serial number.
Warm the casting with a hot air gun to luke warm temp, about 30 deg C (shower water temp).
Hang the part on a good wire.
While warming shake an aerosol of UPOL etch primer like mad and dust a thin coating over the part.
Allow to flash off for about 10 mins (ambient about 20 C (that's hot in England!) and give the part a good even coat of the UPOL again.
Leave overnight.
Clean any dust off the part and paint the casting with Hammerite Smooth silver, a near satin finish silver that is close in my opinion to a good factory colour.
One dust coat, 10 mins flash, good even coat, 20 mins flash, third careful coat.

Leave overnight or better 2 days to fully cure.
Remove masking tape, leave a further few days before fitting seals, bearings etc.

I use the same technique for the black frame paint, but the paint is Hammerite Smooth Black, a near gloss black but not too 'bright'. Give s a bit of a mature look rather than bling brand new.

To finish it off all new fasteners throughout are a must or it will look 1/2 a job.

Hope this helps!
Graham.

 
Hey Graham, when I asked for a bit of detail, I didn’t expect that, brilliant. Great to know exactly how folks do stuff.
ive got some small kit too. A blaster for alum Oxide, glass beads and walnut shells. I’ve also got a blaster for soda which I use on engine casings, as I’m told by the gurus on here will mean I haven’t left grit abandoned inside to knacker bearings etc. Outobie tells me to use beads for casings as they planish the surface and don’t leave sharp holes which dirty quicker. I’m also told not to paint as the paint can delay engine heat removal. I’m sure Long distance will tell me whether this has any mileage! Your engine looks great, the finish looks new along with the fasteners. Looked up the Upol which I hadn’t heard of, looks like a great product. Very impressed, thanks for the info, appreciated.
Ride safe
Brian
PS I live in Kingussie (although presently in Hitchin) so have some knowledge of salty roads, and I’m not a fair weather rider, so my bikes often on the road and very often dirty (that doesn’t include the old japanese bikes though) they get a lot more care.
 
There's been lots of discussions over the years about paint and heat retention on engines. Yes, bare aluminum will release heat faster than painted aluminum. Does it make a significant difference in real world application? Not in my opinion. I can see it becoming an issue for a high performance engine that's been over bored more than 1mm using higher compression pistons for racing purposes. It could also become an issue if the paint is applied too thick, 2-3 coats primer followed by 2-3 coats of paint. Ceramic and powder coatings could easily be a problem since ceramic seals heat to one side and powder is usually applied fairly thick.
Honda did paint their engines, I confirmed this when I took apart a virgin engine and the gaskets that projected past the aluminum had a coat of silver paint on the edges.
The problem with most paints is that they won't stand up to harsh chemicals like carb spray. There are specific paints sold that will for the most part handle those chemicals, VHT brand engine and barrel paints are good and I'm sure there's equivalents sold around the world.
I chose to use a coating that gun manufacturers use called CeraKote. Very expensive and while gun shops can do small pieces their ovens usually won't handle the larger engine pieces. Nice thing about this coating is the suggested cleaning fluid is brake cleaner spray.
 
I knew I could count on you AND vert definitive. I’ve seen CeraCote on you tube. Think I’d need to practice that one.
bottom line. I’m doing my 250 engine, do I just soda blast and polish on the buff. What would any of you do, cos 911’s engine looks great.
 
BikerDaily said:
What would any of you do, cos 911’s engine looks great.
Click to expand...

Yes it does... except for those allen screws.

I painted the outer covers on my 450 with Honda Marine Oyster Silver as I found some left over in my Dad's garage after he passed. It has a look of almost magnesium like the early XL250 engine covers. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how old the can of paint was and that they apparently changed the color or formula (or it just aged in the can and looked different). I liked the color after painting them, so I ordered more of the exact same color and brand... except it's very different. So, if my covers ever get messed up for any reason I have to paint all of them again or they won't match... :rolleyes:
 
I used the allen head screws because they are stainless and I can get an even torque on them where the stock cross heads I tried on my previous gold cb gave some grief and I used the same fasteners as this blue one in the end.
Never leaked.
This bike was never a 100 point restoration, just a simple rebuild that I can be happy with. A lot of the screws etc are from previous projects over the many years I've fooled around with these kind of things.
I try to save a few pounds here and there, my time is free (retired) so spent 30 mins polishing the original Stanley side reflectors to a nice shine rather than spend £20 on 2 new replicas from China. Nice to bring bits back from the dead!

Some more done today, front wheel going back on and some bits should arrive to allow the handle bars to be fitted-up and onto the bike.

I really will have to do the wiring then, my least favorite task.

Then petrol in and fingers crossed.

I use my gold one to remind myself where this and that go, but why did I sell it!

 
911hillclimber said:
I used the allen head screws because they are stainless and I can get an even torque on them
Click to expand...

Interesting reason. I guess it goes back to whether or not you have difficulties with the JIS screws in terms of a proper tool to get them in and out easily. I've owned a JIS T-handle for decades and there are few that it won't get loose pretty easily, the toughest ones give with a loud snap if they're really stubborn. As for getting the engine covers tight enough, again, I've never had a leak using JIS screws and my trusty T-handle.

911hillclimber said:
but why did I sell it!
Click to expand...

Why indeed! It was a beauty.
 
A few more hours in the garage on the bike progressed things a little.
I think after this post I'll slow reports down until a major milestone is reached.

Missing on the bike was the second pair of exhaust sleeve halves, and as these are also hyper rare (at a reasonable price) I made some from metals I had around me.

That job done the front wheel went in and after a few tries finally sorted the tls lever travel out so I have max leverage at just before contact of the shoes.
Other parts should arrive tomorrow to finish off the mech parts of this rebuild tomorrow, then it has to be the electrics...

The proportions of these little Honda twins is just so right.



 
Nice job on those exhaust collets. I bought several aftermarket sets off Ebay that simply didn't fit, despite being described as for the 175 engine, finally bit the bullet and bought an over priced pair from DK spares. Never occurred to me to make some, guess you made them in two parts and welded them together ?

Allen key heads. Back in the day, we all ruined the original JIS screws using Phillips drivers, then fitted aftermarket Allen headed screw sets. I've done the same on my Hornets engine, looks OK on that engine. But I've used stainless JIS heads on the two 175s I've had apart, no issues with leaks and they look right. My third 175 engine has never been apart and has virgin original case screws.

Here you go, stainless JIS, Hammerite paint, and a CB200 alternator cover !

kbYC6FT.jpg
 
The hammerite paint looks really good. Assume it long lasting?? Engine looks smartthough, really nice


gold socket headscrews.jpg
this is my 250tb engine, its a bobber, so only used my JIS to disassemble.
 

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Richard; where did you get the JIT headed screws from please?

Just spend hours chilled in the garage trying to put the wires together in the headlamp bowl....
What a mess esp as the new loom that came on the bike (no original supplied) is some way off in lengths, colours and male/female matching.

Nearly there I think, but proof will be when I put a battery on it.



On more easy areas, the collars were made from some exhaust tube I had and sqeezed down to the OD of the downpipe and a ring of steel made and brazed to the tube. The tube was then cut in 1/2 and slots filed in to miss the studs and it all worked!
Front brake parts added BUT there is a fork oil leak on one leg, other side is good.
New seals used etc, but a small wetting on the floor follows the bike round and the drain screw is tight and dry. The oil is coming out from the lower edge of the stainless tube above the alum botton tube. Irritating.

 
I got my 'JIS' screws from Mr Megapack, although on reflection I wonder if they really are JIS, as they don't have the little stamped dot seen on OEM JIS screws.

As an aside, what's happen to the brake cable adjustment block on your front brake plate ? Been repaired at some point ?

Here's the Megapack advert, prices per pack rather than individual screws.

Z71d8JS.jpg
 
Thanks for the details R. I will look to see if anyone does an 'engine kit' of the screws first.
As to the cable brass block on the front brake? Goodness knows!
I just thought the 1972 bike might be different to my gold '76. All works so left it tbh.

More wires this afternoon.....
 
911hillclimber said:
As to the cable brass block on the front brake? Goodness knows!
I just thought the 1972 bike might be different to my gold '76. All works so left it tbh.
Click to expand...

I wondered about that myself, I just assumed you had done the repair to the backing plate.

Don't forget the cable-retention cotter pin in the brake arm to complete the picture
 
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