My CL175K7

All above considered, I had an interesting afternoon. When I first stopped, a guy on a '78 Bonneville stopped to see if I needed assistance. Thanked him, but told him I'd got RAC breakdown and recovery cover. After he left and I'd rung the RAC, a 16 year lad on his 50cc bike stopped for a long chat. Then I waited and waited until RAC man arrived, with the diagnosis described above. After he'd gone, I went to sit by the water and wait, watch some youngsters on paddle boards.

Had a chat to a chap on a Bandit 1200, he was off to a local bike night. When I asked him where that was, he didn't know, was 'just going to follow my mate'.

Another chap came over to chat, car driver. He clearly knew his old Honda's, as he was bemused by my combination of single carb and electric start. Told me that CL350's didn't have estart ? Very interesting conversation ensued. He had loads of bikes, had once worked in a Honda dealership. At least five CB350's, along with many other bikes, I can't recall all of them as he was referring to them by their Honda codewords, RC whatever. He'd raced a CB350 a few years ago at the IOM Classic TT, and had in fact just returned from watching this years Classic TT, which was mainly rained off. He said he'd never seen a 350 cam snap at that point, but that as the cams are castings a fatigue fracture is not unlikely.

Later on, the recovery truck arrived. Driver was also a biker, currently owned a Fazer 1000. We loaded my bike onto his retractable flat bed, then he tied the bike down very tightly. On the centre stand, with four ratchet straps through the frame rails, another to stop the front forks flapping about, then multiple photos on his phone for the record. Bike arrived home safely, after a nice ride and chat in his truck.
 
It was indeed a broken camshaft, as I finally suspected. It's broken where the advance mechanism location pin sits, but what is a trifle odd is the way the pin seems to have twisted inside the advance mechanism, as seen in the last photo below. I can't see any reason why is should have twisted like that. It's a CB200 (354) advancer, if that makes any difference, although I now have a CD175 advancer that will be going back in with the replacement cam.

A question - I was resigned to taking the engine out to fix this, but as it has all fresh seals and gaskets in the top end, I'm wondering if I can do a camshaft swap with the engine in frame ? Just use some nuts and washers to keep the tension on the head gasket whilst I'm getting the cam timing correct.

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That last picture is strange indeed.

I can see how you could replace the cam in the frame if you can get the top cover off the engine in place, but that would be the concern - Jim had a 350 that someone tried to remove the top cover from in the frame and the PO bent the tops of some cylinder studs while trying, then gave up due to lack of clearance. Is there enough clearance above the top cover on the 175 to remove it with the engine still in place?
 
Is there enough clearance above the top cover on the 175 to remove it with the engine still in place?
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A good question ! My principal concern was the M6 screw buried down at the front of the cover, but I got my 1/4" socket and ratchet on that and cracked it loose. I haven't undone the head nuts yet, I had to down tools at that point. I'll find out in the next couple of days. Need to get some more cam chain soft links in any case, I plan on splitting the chain rather than wrestle with an endless chain and removeable cam sprocket ( CD 175 is like the CB200 in that respect ).
 
Richard Pitman said:
It was indeed a broken camshaft, as I finally suspected. It's broken where the advance mechanism location pin sits, but what is a trifle odd is the way the pin seems to have twisted inside the advance mechanism
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I had a similar experience on my CB450 back in the 70's where I had left the spacer/thrust washer out from behind the advance mechanism and allowed it rub on the housing as it rotated. The damage was very obvious in my case when I pulled the cover off. It looks like there might be a bit of wear on your housing from looking at the photo but can't say for sure. I copied your photo and marked the area I am talking about although it is very light.

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Richard Pitman said:
A good question ! My principal concern was the M6 screw buried down at the front of the cover, but I got my 1/4" socket and ratchet on that and cracked it loose. I haven't undone the head nuts yet, I had to down tools at that point. I'll find out in the next couple of days. Need to get some more cam chain soft links in any case, I plan on splitting the chain rather than wrestle with an endless chain and removeable cam sprocket ( CD 175 is like the CB200 in that respect ).
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Though it would add another level of effort and difficulty to the job, if there isn't quite enough clearance at the top I suppose you could loosen or remove the motor mount bolts to lower the engine in the frame a bit, but of course that might also mean a need to loosen other things like the exhaust... and then you're even closer to a full engine removal anyway. Hopefully you'll have room above without going that far.
 
I had a similar experience on my CB450 back in the 70's where I had left the spacer/thrust washer out from behind the advance mechanism and allowed it rub on the housing as it rotated.
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Thanks. I will check for clearance when I refit the parts, using a matching cam and advance mechanism this time.
 
After a bit of a sleepless night thinking about this, it turns out that there is plenty of space to remove the 175 cam cover with the engine in frame. What a relief !

Just waiting for some rivet links for the cam chain to arrive now. I also will need to keep rotating the engine until TDC coincides with that rivet link arriving at the top of the engine. Must be a formula for calculating that, it's all Rubiks Cube to me ....

I suppose I could do it as per CB200, unbolt the cam sprocket and waggle it all apart, doesn't really appeal.

Everything looks nice and well oiled in there, pity this happened. Horn bracket could do with a lick of paint, and that clutch cable isn't routed very nicely either.


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Richard Pitman said:
It was indeed a broken camshaft, as I finally suspected.

A question - I was resigned to taking the engine out to fix this, but as it has all fresh seals and gaskets in the top end, I'm wondering if I can do a camshaft swap with the engine in frame ? Just use some nuts and washers to keep the tension on the head gasket whilst I'm getting the cam timing correct.
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Richard Pitman said:
Need to get some more cam chain soft links in any case, I plan on splitting the chain rather than wrestle with an endless chain and removeable cam sprocket ( CD 175 is like the CB200 in that respect ).
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Richard Pitman said:
After a bit of a sleepless night thinking about this, it turns out that there is plenty of space to remove the 175 cam cover with the engine in frame. What a relief !

Just waiting for some rivet links for the cam chain to arrive now. I also will need to keep rotating the engine until TDC coincides with that rivet link arriving at the top of the engine. Must be a formula for calculating that, it's all Rubiks Cube to me ....

I suppose I could do it as per CB200, unbolt the cam sprocket and waggle it all apart, doesn't really appeal.
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Richard, I suppose the good aspect of your situation is that the cam broke at the advance end only, and therefore your valve timing stayed intact -- no piston and valve collisions.

I'm probably not tracking well here, but why do you need to break the chain? Don't you have to unbolt the sprocket from the cam to remove the old, broken cam regardless of what you do? Then install a new cam and bolt it to the existing sprocket? Why does that entail cutting the cam chain? My experience is limited to the 350 engines, but the overhead cam setup looks similar. What am I missing?
 
fxray said:
Richard, I suppose the good aspect of your situation is that the cam broke at the advance end only, and therefore your valve timing stayed intact -- no piston and valve collisions.

I'm probably not tracking well here, but why do you need to break the chain? Don't you have to unbolt the sprocket from the cam to remove the old, broken cam regardless of what you do? Then install a new cam and bolt it to the existing sprocket? Why does that entail cutting the cam chain? My experience is limited to the 350 engines, but the overhead cam setup looks similar. What am I missing?
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The earlier CB/CL/SL 175 engines use a cam shaft with the sprocket pressed into place ie all one piece. This lifts out from the head, once the cam bearings are removed and the cam chain broken. On those engines, from the factory they use a clip link in the cam chain. This can be replaced by a rivet link when a new cam chain is fitted. The later CB200 engine, in common with the last of the upright CD175s uses an endless cam chain and a bolted on sprocket. The official method is to unbolt the cam sprocket and waggle it all apart. However, replacing the endless cam chain is obviously a full engine rebuild scenario, hence the availability of rivet links.

In my case, I have both options available. I'm just going for the line of least resistance, and on balance, as this cam chain has already been rivited once, seems easier to break the chain rather than wrestle with the cam bolts etc.
 
Of course, this all bit in me in the bottom this afternoon. Split the cam chain OK, but Mr Magoo here put the chain breaker tool onto the link next to the riveted link, which was the one I was intending to break and replace. So it'll be going back with a fresh rivet link right next to the one I put in last time.

Apart from that, all came apart in minutes, rockers and shafts bagged and labelled - if I had a crank mounted ignition I could reuse that broken camshaft.

Cam shaft lifted out OK, bit of waggling needed, not much room under the top frame rail. However, this defeated me from putting the replacement cam in, with its intact advance mechanism shaft. With the engine out of the frame it can be done, but I've ended unbolting the cam sprocket anyway. Those bolts wouldn't budge using handtools and moderate force, being careful not to damage the cam or sprocket. De Walt impact whipped the bolts out easily. Bad light ended play - this is the downside of working in my garage rather than in the shed, I have to rely on natural light and a small torch. Really must dig out my head torch.
 
Grrr, this is turning into a bit of an epic. I got it all rebuilt in a few minutes this afternoon, cam and sprocket in, followed by the rockers and the cam bearings. Lined up TDC etc and tried to get the ends of the cam chain to meet on the sprocket. Just could not manage it.

I suppose that I am fighting against the cam chain tensioner. When I've assembled an engine from scratch, I always fully retract the tensioner bar and lock in place, only releasing it once everything is back in place. With the engine in the frame and poor visibility, I gave up my idea of pushing down on the CCT to relieve the pressure, not before I'd released the tensioner bar, which has probably made matters even worse. Struggled with this situation for ages, very frustrating.

In the end, I removed the two cam bearings, allowing the cam to drop down enough that I could get the two ends together, and rivet the soft link to joint them. Then, with some effort against the tension of the cam chain, refitted the cam bearings. I'd only refitted the cam sprocket bolts gently snugged down, at this point I removed them in turn and fully tightened, using thread lock on them.

And then I rotated the engine a few times, to find that I'm one tooth out on the cam timing. Gave up at this point. Next time, I hope it will be a fairly simple matter of removing the cam bearings again, dropping the cam low enough to shuffle the unbroken cam chain one tooth backwards.

On the positive side, my 219T chain breaker works very satisfyingly, as does my riveting tool, which is designed to handle 525 drive chains and makes very light work of the 219t soft rivets.
 
Ah, maybe some washer and nuts to press the head with the cylinders and case. It might give you some more wiggle room
 
I'm thinking that the timing chain tensioner is my enemy. I'm going to have another go at resetting it - my plan is to slacken the adjuster bolt, push down on the idler sprocket then retighten the bolt.

Sounds simple in theory .....
 
I managed to get it back together this afternoon, but it took rather more brute force than I was happy with. I couldn't get the CCT to loosen off, top frame rail prevented me from looking straight down the cam tunnel, to press down on the idler sprocket. I removed the cam bearings again, dropping the cam down. I still couldn't lift the chain off the cam sprocket to correct the timing, but I found that I could drop the chain off the crank sprocket and ended up getting the timing correct that way. The brute force then came in when I replaced the cam bearings against the pull of the cam chain. Valve train played no part in this, as I'd backed the adjustments screws right out, crank set at TDC in any case.

I think I've learnt from this that my glib assumption that it would be easy to change a cam chain in situ, by breaking the old one and using it to pull the new one through is not going to be as easy as I thought.

Anyway, top cover is now back on and torqued down, there is just enough clearance to get a 3/8" drive torque wrench and a short socket in under the frame rail. I adjusted the valve clearances while the top cover was off, but will check them again now that it is all pulled down correctly. And there ends todays instalment, seems longer ago than this time last week, waiting for the breakdown truck.
 
Turning the engine over using a 14mm spanner on the rotor nut, there is a horrible tight spot around the TDC mark. Removing the plugs makes no difference. That said, engine spins easily on the starter, but doesn't want to start and run, fuel from an auxiliary tank.

So this afternoon I did what I should have done in the first place, took the engine out. It'll be back up to the shed for a good dose of looking at. I'm still convinced that the current problem lies in the cam chain / cam chain tensioner assembly, can't imagine it being a valves hitting pistons scenario. Such a shame, as this seemed like a really sweet running engine before the end broke off the cam shaft. :cry:
 
Richard Pitman said:
Turning the engine over using a 14mm spanner on the rotor nut, there is a horrible tight spot around the TDC mark. Removing the plugs makes no difference. That said, engine spins easily on the starter, but doesn't want to start and run, fuel from an auxiliary tank.

So this afternoon I did what I should have done in the first place, took the engine out. It'll be back up to the shed for a good dose of looking at. I'm still convinced that the current problem lies in the cam chain / cam chain tensioner assembly, can't imagine it being a valves hitting pistons scenario. Such a shame, as this seemed like a really sweet running engine before the end broke off the cam shaft. :cry:
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That is a shame, and I'm curious as to what you find once it's apart.
 
Wheel barrowed back up to the shed this afternoon. Much easier to pull apart on the bench. When I broke the cam chain it pinged back into the cases with some force, must have been under terrific tension. Apart from that, all came apart as expected, and all parts looked absolutely fine. Head off, cam tensioner bar completely smooth in operation when 8mm screw released.

The only conclusion that I can draw from this is that if you mess with the cam chain you absolutely have to remove the cylinder head and reset the cam tensioner bar in the fully retracted position, before jointing the cam chain as part of the rebuild. The only question mark surrounds my use of that Capellini tensioner wheel - did the chain somehow get bound up around this? Wonder if that caused the faint whine I could hear, perhaps this part is better suited to a race engine.

Anyway, as DS are doing them at such a good price, I've ordered a NOS cct assembly from them, along with a new cam chain from them, gasket set from Wemoto, and some more DID soft links from Ebay, shopping around for best prices in each case.

Still thinking about fitting a CB cam to the CD head, so that I can use the mechanical tacho.
 
It didn't really occur to me at the time, but when you mentioned struggling to put the cam bearings on it was a tip-off that the chain was too tight. I'm sure if you studied the tensioner design and movement you could figure out a way to reset it without pulling the engine, but it isn't like you do this often anyway so it's best to get it right.
 
Excellent service from David Silvers, Wemoto, and an Ebay seller, all parts arrived on Tuesday lunchtime. We're having a bit of an Indian Summer here in the UK this week, so I went for a ride on my SL175 rather than start an engine rebuild. However, back on the tools this afternoon. New CCT assembly and cam chain in place, cylinders back on without too much of a struggle, then head back on. And off again, because I'd forgotten to fit the CCT adjuster. New gaskets throughout this time. Just remains to re engage the cam chain onto the crank sprocket and get the chain riveted up, but I was getting a bit impatient by now, seemed best to return to this another day. DS supplied an endless chain, which I separated before fitting, dropping it down into the cases while the cylinders were off, then fishing the loose end up with some wire.

This should thoroughly confuse a passing rivet counter.

A CL175, with CB175 pipes. SL175 engine, fitted with electric starter. Single carb CD175 head, with CB175 cam shaft and tacho drive :geek:

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Jramos13 said:
O wow that’s a very interesting combination of engine parts. you think the cd175 head fit a cb200?
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Yes, there's a thread somewhere from a UK chap who has fitted a CB200 engine with a CD 175 head to his CD 175. Same chap who first posted about modifying the CD engine to electric start, which inspired me to do the same.

Just by eye ball, the CB200 and 175 heads have the same chamber volume. Compression ratios are same on both engines, down to piston crown size, less of a dome on the 200 piston.
 
To use a UK colloquialism, this build is 'doing my head in'. I just cannot get the two ends of the cam chain to meet, keep ending up one tooth away on the cam sprocket. After much head scratching, I think it has to be that I cannot get the cam chain to properly wrap around the crank sprocket. Able to rotate the crank without the chain moving.

Ended up dropping one end of the chain down into the cases at one point when it slipped through my fingers, luckily able to fish it back up with a piece of stiff wire, once I'd lifted the head again. CCT is fully backed off, that is not the issue. Frustrating, because I've done this particular job loads of times in the past without problems. Guess I will just have to keep trying.
 
I had a chain that was next to but not on the crank gear teeth. Finally flipped and removed the drain plug plate on a 160 and saw what was going on. Strangely the crank gear grabbed the side of the chain so both moved together but could not get the master on so I knew something wasn't right.
 
ballbearian said:
I had a chain that was next to but not on the crank gear teeth. Finally flipped and removed the drain plug plate on a 160 and saw what was going on. Strangely the crank gear grabbed the side of the chain so both moved together but could not get the master on so I knew something wasn't right.
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This is exactly what I think is going on here, to the point that I thought of taking the bottom case off and getting at it from there. But that would be a bit too extreme ! I can turn the crank with the the cam chain pulled tight at the cam end, without getting any movement on the chain. In the past, I've just held both ends of the chain, dropped it down then pulled up, to engage the crank gear. Just doesn't seem to be working for me this afternoon. With the cylinders off, the crank gear can be clearly seen, but the chain would probably slip off again in the process of threading it all back through, and anyway I don't enjoy taking the cylinder block off and back on again. I've downed tools early and given up for today before I do something rash. I've already managed to drop the cam chain into the engine again this afternoon, getting quite good at fishing it back up again with some wire.

If anyone else has any suggestions for resolving this I'm all ears !
 
Do you a way to lean the engine a bit to one side and then the other with risking it falling, My thought is if the chain is catching on one side gravity might pull the chain over to center to allow you get it on the teeth. If you still can't get it I would try connecting an old chain to the new one and pull it through and see if I can get the old one to connect just as a test. You could then check the new chain for any issues like a binding link and make sure it has the correct number of links.
 
Actually, leaning the engine to one side was part of the problem. Being lazy, I've not drained the oil, which was fresh in less than 50 miles ago, and I had the engine propped up on one side so that oil didn't spill out from the alternator side. Causing the chain to sit to one side of the sprocket.

This afternoon I took the cylinder head off again. You can then see the crankshaft sprocket from above, using a small torch. Crank set at TDC, I was able to hook up the cam chain with the sprocket, equal lengths of chain each side. Keeping the chain tight, I slid my long thin Wera electricians screwdriver through the cam chain and across the crankcase mouth, holding it all in place while the head was dropped back on. A third hand would have been useful at this point, but I managed by sticking a handy Stanley tape measure under the head fins, to hold it up while I pulled the loose ends of the cam chain up through the head. Then just a matter of keeping the chain tight while I pulled out the screwdriver and dropped the head into place. Loose ends of the chain then met correctly on the cam sprocket and I quickly pushed the rivet link into place, after checking that crank was still at TDC timing mark on cam sprocket at 12 o'clock. To say that I'm relieved is an understatement. Watch this space for the next riveting instalment ..... :D

( Interesting aside and possible gotcha. While messing about with the head, I noticed some endplay in the cam, so I decided to try fitting a different points side journal, to see if there was any difference in the cam end float. With this in place, I tried to lift the head off, but it was stuck tightly in place. To cut a long story short, one of the rocker pins was not engaging correctly with this used cam journal, and as the screws holding the journal in place were tightened, the other end of the pin was pressing on a middle cylinder stud, jamming the head in place. Replaced the journal, all well again. Worth remembering this if a head is being built up on the bench rather than on the engine, if one of those rocker pins slides in too far, the head stud passage gets blocked and head will not slide on. )
 
Riveted today. I used my chain tool which I originally bought to rivet soft links on 525 ( big bike sized ) drive chains, so it easily handles the cam chain rivet. I've ground one of the push pins down to a point, which works to expand the end of the 175 cam chain rivet link. I think this set of pics explains it all. Final pic shows one side rivetted, other to follow. Just realised, my photos don't show the smaller threaded portion of the chain tool, which drives the pin forward onto the rivet head, but anyone who has used a chain tool will know what I'm blithering about.

Engine is now all back together, turns freely and smoothly. Head torqued, valves adjusted, just the ignition timing now.

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Finally. Engine back in frame, it starts and runs just like it did before the cam shaft broke. Only difference is that it now has a working tacho, courtesy of a CB175 cam. A bit of smoke from the right hand silencer, which was a bit worrying, but this went away after the engine had run for a while. Panic that I'd broken a ring putting the cylinders back on, but happy now that it was just excess assembly oil burning off. Friday afternoon rush hour traffic, put off my test ride for a quieter time.

The CB175 cam came from my small stash of spare parts. Searching the web it seems that 175 cams are now no longer easily available. I'm wondering now about trying to find someone who could repair my broken CD175 cam. Previously, this would have just gone into the trash can, but would now be a waste of an otherwise perfectly good cam shaft. I've just watched an Allen Millyard video, where made the cams for his six cylinder Z1 engine. He cut the cam shafts up using an angle grinder, then bored out the centre of the shafts, pressing in old wrist pins to join them back together, then tifg welding the joints once he'd degreed the cams to work with the six cylinder engine.

Given that all that is possible, how difficult would it be for someone with a lathe to fix this for me ? Turn up a new shaft for the advance mechanism, then bore out the end of the camshaft and press the new part in.

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It's interesting in your case, because the advancer shaft on the DOHC 450 exhaust cam IS pressed into the end of the cam. I wasn't aware of that fact until my machinist removed it when he cleaned up the rough bearing journal that got rusty while sitting on a shelf, then added the bronze bushing to a worn left exhaust cam bearing for the red 450 during the early stages of the build while the bike was apart between 2017 and 2018. So I can't imagine there would be a problem repairing yours that way, as long as the advancer shaft is properly centered and runs true it should work fine. Of course, employing a quality and talented machinist is the key.
 
I suspect Allen might be a bit too busy, he seems to have a lot on his plate these days. Probably cheapest option is to keep looking for used cams, one is bound to crop up in the US soon or later. As for fixing this one, I may have thought of a local option.
 
Richard Pitman said:
I suspect Allen might be a bit too busy, he seems to have a lot on his plate these days. Probably cheapest option is to keep looking for used cams, one is bound to crop up in the US soon or later. As for fixing this one, I may have thought of a local option.
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Allen should be asked, if even just to show the high esteem we all have for him and his work.
 
ballbearian said:
Allen should be asked, if even just to show the high esteem we all have for him and his work.
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I once stood next to the great man when he was demonstrating ( revving the nuts off ) one of his 100cc V twins at Prescott bike fest. However, I shan't be contacting him about my cam, my fear of rejection is too great. :eek:

He's currently sorting out that Norton Nemesis V8 engine, tidying up some of the original kludges inflicted on the engine. Looks like the designer and builders started off doing a good job, but rushed it to completion at the end.
 
Covered 17 miles on the rebuilt engine this afternoon, without it blowing up. :D

Runs really nicely, idles reliably at 1200 rpm. Taking it fairly easy, allowing it to run up to just over 7k through the gears, 50 mph cruise is at 6000 rpm. No smoke, leaks or nasty noises, although I'm still paranoid after that cam failure. Ride took me around local lanes, never more than a few miles ( pushing distance ! ) from home.

Sun was still out when I got back, so after some tuning on the mixture screw on the hot engine ( turning it out a little increased the idle rpm ) I put it to bed and got the Hornet out, as that has been neglected lately. 6000 rpm in sixth gear on that one is just over 70 mph, with another 5500 rpm to go until the limiter, and this is on my lowered gearing, pulls away in second gear easily from standstill.

Also found that vendor had accepted my offer on yet another CD175 cylinder head, complete with cam. Happy days.
 
Finally, a dry sunny afternoon ! After mornings dog walk and early afternoon gardening, zipped the winter liner into my jacket and set off down to the garage.

Where the bike refused to start. My tuning on the mixture screw on a hot engine turned out to have been a bad idea. Screwing it back in, then out to the usual Honda 1 1/4 turns out had it running nicely again. At least it proves that the mixture screw / idle circuit is clear and works as it should. Another 20 miles of running in done, brief excursions up to 9k rpms in the gears now. Engine is very smooth compared with its twin carb siblings, carb balance ( or lack of ) must be a factor here.

Obviously some fine tuning still to be done. I'm running a 100 main jet in the CL72 carb, plugs look a bit sooty. I think it's supposed to run a 98 main, I'll try the 95 main I got at the same time as the 100 from CNMSL. I'm running an ancient OEM air filter which is probably restricting things a bit as well. Need to check the advance as well with the strobe. And change the oil again.

Ebay CD175 head and cam hasn't arrived yet. :mad:
 
Back home from a day out at the tree museum ( they charged us 16 quid just see 'em ), CD175 head sitting in porch when we got home. Earlier upright engine, cam sprocket pressed on, same as CB engines, later CD175 has a bolted cam sprocket, same method as used in the CB200 engine ( different cam and sprocket ).

Everything rusted and seized solid, so a good dose of WD40 and left in the shed. I enjoy a challenge, looking forward to getting this one apart and seeing if I have a usable cam.
 
Started the dissection yesterday. All four valve covers solidly stuck fast. My mains impact driver got two of them off. The third one would not budge, the impact driver tore the centre out of the cap. The fourth one I heated with a gas torch until smoking hot, impact driver then got that one off.

Next problem is the advance mechanism, solidly rusted onto the end of the cam. I'm very wary now about using too much force here, considering that it's that end of the cam that broke off on the earlier cam, which was the reason for this search for parts. So far, heat and WD40 have failed to budge it. I think that the advance mechanism is now a right off, it didn't seem to enjoy being heated, springs lost temper and buffer pads caught alight.

Cam lobes covered in rust, but a quick rub with Scotchbrite seems to reveal a decent surface under the muck, I'll know more once / if I get the cam out. Apologies for rubbish photos, should have used flash.

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