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my 66 CB160 refresh build
- Thread starter gregz
- Start date
gregz
Member
Well got the case totally stripped and well I have found the noise I've been chasing. The case has been taken apart before by someone else. How I know this is there was a broken case stud with a 13mm nut on it and other signs of intrusion. I have been hearing what I have described in another post was maybe a cam chain type noise but after inspecting my work with the cam chain and not finding any issues with it I kept digging.
(yes I know I called it a "pin" I know its the bearing retainer half "C" clip)
These were the dowel pins that hold the transmission bushings in
(yes I know I called it a "pin" I know its the bearing retainer half "C" clip)
These were the dowel pins that hold the transmission bushings in
I'm guessing those knock pins got waffled out because the set rings for the ball bearings on the other end of the shafts weren't there, evidenced by the ball bearing moving in the case in your video. Curiously, the outer race of the ball bearing on the shaft you're moving doesn't appear to have the groove in it for the set ring.
gregz
Member
Very good observation on the bearing lacking the groove. I just ordered this https://www.ebay.com/itm/335036026306 and in the ad pictures you can see grooves in the bearings
Yep, set ring grooves in both ball bearing outers in those shafts. I suspect someone replaced the countershaft bearing without realizing the groove was important.
gregz
Member
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Knock pins were wrong ones and wrong places on mine too. One, or more are hollow for oil flow as well. Check them carefully, also their length. Also check parts list for missing thrust washers on that tranny shaft. Looks like a lot of end play slop.
That crank looks rough. Sludge traps and internal drillings may be plugged. Poor oiling signs are the worn rings. small end piston pin bores and also rod side play. Hard to find a shop with big press to disassemble crank and clear drillings, replace rods, but maybe you can find one. Splash feed oiling totally depends on open crank drillings, not sump, it is below rod swing. Another used crank is just a gamble. Rebuilt motor with a plugged crank won't last near as long. Flushing crank from centers out may or may not work and is tedious.
Aren't 60 year old bikes fun, when you get to fix all previous builder's screw ups?
That crank looks rough. Sludge traps and internal drillings may be plugged. Poor oiling signs are the worn rings. small end piston pin bores and also rod side play. Hard to find a shop with big press to disassemble crank and clear drillings, replace rods, but maybe you can find one. Splash feed oiling totally depends on open crank drillings, not sump, it is below rod swing. Another used crank is just a gamble. Rebuilt motor with a plugged crank won't last near as long. Flushing crank from centers out may or may not work and is tedious.
Aren't 60 year old bikes fun, when you get to fix all previous builder's screw ups?
To answer your question requires a question: do you have a 20 ton press? Because the crankshafts are pressed together and it takes a 20 ton press to get them apart and back together again (and you still have to know how to do it right). Typically those of us with older Hondas and pressed-together cranks look for a good used one.
There is a member here who could do the repair for you, but he's in the UK and the shipping would likely be prohibitive.