They're not Akronts or Campagnolo, for sure.
. They seem pretty decent for the price especially. Might need rim washers for the thinner spoke nipples on these.
Could be. ICR for sure now, the 160 spokes/nipples might be good but the little 90's bikes got even smaller nipples, 5mm I think, or less. Dome-ing washers on a snowy evening sounds relaxing.
Thanks RR for kindly pointing out my erroneous rim width understanding. I'm now contemplating options while looking at my front wheel with a very fat (almost 3 5/8"overall) IRC GS11, 3.25-19 on a 1.60 rim. To me it looks more overstuffed than waistlines at a 50 year high school reunion. It's just not right.
Actually worse, closer to 10 ohm, but they are old. Some NGK were 5 ohm, so I think my cheapo HF meter is close to right. An aftermarket cap from a coil set was best at 1.2.
That seems low or perhaps a failing non-resistor cap meant to be used with modern R type spark plugs.
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Stan's post was what I was using. Thank you, Stan.
When I get outobie's pretty red K0 up and running, that does sound dandy.Personally, I would get alloy rims on both ends (oh, I already do
Yes, the old caps have a bit too much resistance, probably from degrading over time. A lot depends on the state of your coils, but I’d use the NGK plugs (as they seem to have the correct resistance range) with original B8ES plugs (non resistance type). They’re discontinued though and superseded by BR8ES (R=resistance). If that’s all you can find (then you may as well use a better iridium plug), I’d go with non-resistance plug caps. That said, it’s probably better to have double the resistance from stock (assuming healthy coils) than none. If you have none, you get shorter spark duration which may (in my case it did) cause incomplete burn. This wasted gas, fouled the plugs, and caused hard starts and less power.
Interesting, a too short spark duration. In Stan's 3rd test, he measured the secondary through the primary adding them together and got 9.6K ohm, as did mine at 10K. Would this then still be called a 5K ohm coil? Since subtracting the primary would, indeed leave 5K ohm.
Interesting. So those old black OEM caps that measured about 10K ohm, had not really degraded to that but were still close to then new spec, and to be used with copper wires and non-resistor plugs.
As long as everyone is content with my content. It's all in the emphasis.
Such patience, that one has. There will be rewards.The K0 had no comment.
I caught that!
Actually, you can’t use the linkage shifter with that K5 peg bar because it won’t clear it. I’ve tried.I just noticed that there are differences between models concerning the shifter types and the footpeg (footbar) position.
Here is my 73 CL K5, Mousetown, with a direct shifter and original footbar. The footpeg is directly inline with the shifter shaft on the engine. The tip of the shifter falls about center to the stator cover. Note those 3 points of reference: tip, shaft, footpeg.
Now here is a 68-69 K0-K1 with a linkage type shifter. The tip of shifter now falls at rear edge of stator cover and the footpeg is now further back from the shaft by a couple inches.
Again, the K5's with a direct shifter have the footpeg even with the shaft. This is a K5 '73 CB350G that has the same front to back positioning, with the tip near center of stator, not at rear edge of stator. This is enough room here, because of the pipes, to remove the shifter for sprocket cover removal.
The '73 CL K5 is a pain to remove the sprocket cover because one must also drop the footbar to be able to then remove the shifter first.
Putting a direct shifter on an older footbar that has the footpeg to the rear of the shaft would mean the tip of the shifter might be a big stretch, unless you have big big feet or ride with swim fins.
So, the K5 s (CL or CB) footbars put the peg forward, in line with the shaft. If one then uses a linkage shifter, with it's tip further back, one will need very tiny feet or toes amputated. This may be more uncommon because most want to ditch the linkage shifters, and keep their toes.
Agreed and I ordered a linkage style shifter this morning.
I'm glad to have been able to share some useful info. And timely too, as I just reviewed your 350 build and realized the footbar is getting swapped.
If there is an early CL with link shift that is different from early CB, then maybe 4.
Thanks. First I worry, then I learn.
As in, those guys in Houston's Brenden? So he 'learned' lots of stuff since then to become the 'Honda wizard'?
Lots of professors, pastors, managers out there need to go back to school.
Those carbs look CV type ?
I was curious because I knew you did a lot of stuff for him early on. Interesting that he never mentions those who helped him get his little empire started. Thanks for the clarification PJ
Yep, modified stock carbs and stock cam. K&N filters (RU18)
What fun that must've been. I doubt I'll ever DTT, never did.Yep, modified stock carbs and stock cam. K&N filters (RU18)
I forget if I cleaned up ports a bit but probably did.
I've had a bit of practice with modifying bikes since the 70's
He never took it over 110~115, got a bit scared as that was the fastest he had ever been on any bike at the time.
Your 400 should do it, but it might require laying down out of the wind. My 450 will almost do it with me sitting upright but falls about 5 to 8 mph short. And when you shift to 5th it doesn't go any faster sitting up, just lowers the rpm to just under the original redline.
It might, that tiny fairing helps a lot, and I just got some 400F bars for it. Since I put that triangular screen (pretty laid back) on the GS750L, I caught me at 95 a couple times not really trying. Being a sole caretaker at home is likely my biggest obstacle.
Yeah, you do have someone counting on you coming home.
Yeah, a long walk would be bad enough. Yesterday I redlined Greenjeans in 4th and felt a loss (soft seize, valve float?), backed off in 5th, noticed coming down from 80+ mph. it was better but it got me thinking.
Not likely with a used engine and not exceeding redline, more likely a brief fuel deprivation moment. Float level might be just a tad low on one cylinder?
Good thought, I like that much better.
Might even be a slow tank cap vent or narrowed petcock valve packing too.
Yeah, that toothe smoker you drink the player you get
