Installing new shocks

Denny K

Denny K

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Folks,
Have bought a new set of rear shocks from Tec Bikes for my 400T1. Checked the shop manual and all it says is remove the chain guard first. Changing the shocks looks pretty straight forward, but this bike does not have a center stand. I will loosen all the bolts first but wondered if it would be wise to slightly lift the bike off the ground before removing a one of the shocks. Kind of like putting a pair of pants on, one leg or shock at a time, right?

Thanks,
Denny K
 
Moved to new thread in SOHC Twins Suspension section.

It wouldn't hurt to give the bike some support underneath to simulate it being on a centerstand. You could probably do it on the sidestand one at a time, but you might have to lift the bike slightly (given that the new shocks are the exact same length) to get each new one on since the weight of the bike might cause it to sag a little with only one shock/spring supporting it.
 
Tom, this makes good sense to me. Don't need to get the bike too far in the air, but like you say simulate the center stand.

Thanks,
 
Denny K said:
Tom, this makes good sense to me. Don't need to get the bike too far in the air, but like you say simulate the center stand.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Yes, you really want to find that middle position where there's no weight on the rear wheel but it isn't hanging either, so when you remove the first shock the swingarm doesn't want to sag making it hard to put the new one on.
 
Got the new shocks today. I noticed that there are no locking nuts included for the damper bolts, so it looks like I would use the old ones. Right? The shocks on the bike have a groove cut into the damper bolts. There were no instructions included from TEC bike with the shocks. Will try to set the new shocks up close to the old ones.
 
Denny K said:
Got the new shocks today. I noticed that there are no locking nuts included for the damper bolts, so it looks like I would use the old ones. Right? The shocks on the bike have a groove cut into the damper bolts. There were no instructions included from TEC bike with the shocks. Will try to set the new shocks up close to the old ones.
Click to expand...
Locking nuts? The shocks only use bolts. Set the initial preload to full soft and ride a good 10 miles or so before changing
 
Jim,

I wrote TEC and got a reply along with some instructions. It is in a Word format and I think I can simply include it. The lock nut I am talking about is at the top of the internal threaded bolt. Here's the instructions TEC sent:

Remove the old shocks and carefully clean and lubricate the frame and swing arm mounting lugs with grease before installing the new shocks. If you have a problem fitting the shocks make sure there is no corrosion or paint on the lugs. This is a particular issue on Triumphs and all paint should be removed from the lugs first. Another issue can be that the steel inserts from your old shocks are stuck on the lugs. This can be difficult to see and may lead you to think we have supplied the shocks with too small bushings fitted.
Unscrew the adjustable bottom mount to achieve the desired length but keep AT LEAST 12mm (half an inch) screwed into the shock.
Once your desired length is determined, completely remove the bottom mount and apply thread lock to the portion of the threads that will be screwed into the shock and re-install, tightening the lock nut securely, but do not over-tighten.
It is recommended that the shocks be primed prior to use by mounting one shock only and pushing down on the motorcycle until the shock is fully compressed. Do this several times and then remove the shock and repeat with the other one. Re-fit the first shock to complete the installation.
We recommend leaving the spring pre-load at minimum for initial use. The shocks will be a little stiff at first until the dampers bed-in and springs settle a little. You will likely want to adjust them a couple of times during the first few months of use.
On shocks with adjustable damping, turn the knob on the shock body counter-clockwise to make harder and clockwise to soften. Count the clicks to ensure settings on both shocks are synchronised.
IMPORTANT: On shocks without adjustable damping there is a lock nut under the rubber bump stop at the bottom of the shock. The tightness of this nut must be checked using a 19mm wrench through the spring coils after installation and before use. Check it again after 1 week, and periodically thereafter.
 
I have an idea of what I think they're describing, but the pictures at their website are not large enough to actually identify what the words describe. I'm assuming they're talking about the adjustable length, while Jim was referring to the mounting hardware because I suspect he, like myself, did not initially understand what your question was about. As always, pictures would help.
 
So here are a couple of pics. One of the old shocks on the bike showing the lock nut at the top. The other is of the new shock and as you can see there is no lock nut on top. But there is a nut below the top bracket. Jim, I looked at the link you sent and that was what I thought I ordered.
 

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Quick update. Dave from TEC has advised me not to mess with the nut under the top bracket. Simply remove the old shock and replace it with the new using the bolts that go into the frame and swingarm. I did loosen the bolts earlier today. Used a bit of Liquid Wrench and was able to break them loose.
 
I think they are a bit less expensive than the ones sold by 4 into 1, and a whole lot less than Hagon shocks. So far, the folks at TEC have been great to work with and the purchasing and shipping went well. I'm turning 75 this year, so this is likely the last pair of shocks I'll put on this bike. :)
 
Denny K said:
So here are a couple of pics. One of the old shocks on the bike showing the lock nut at the top. The other is of the new shock and as you can see there is no lock nut on top. But there is a nut below the top bracket. Jim, I looked at the link you sent and that was what I thought I ordered.
Click to expand...
That nut releases the spring, in case you were to replace only the shock w/o the spring or wanted to move the spring to a different shock. Do Not remove that nut unless the spring is compressed with an appropriate tool.
 
Jim,
Yes, I was warned about that by the guy from TEC bikes. I am enlisting my friend John to help with this; just to be sure there are no problems.
Thank you. Denny K
 
Shocks Installed

Folks,
Got the shocks on today. Fairly easy job but this is how we did it.

1. Loosen the mounting bolts before lifting the bike. My bike does not have a center stand, if yours does, I suggest you loosen the bolts while all the weight of the bike is on the ground.
2. Lift the bike is some manner, if you have a center stand that maybe enough, or use a jack or get a friend to help. My friend John came over on his 1976 CB750 and John provided the muscle needed to lift the bike as needed.
3. Remove the chain guard
4. Remove the right-side shock
5. Replace the right-side shock. We found that replacing the lower bolt first works better, then replace the upper bolt. Use some blue thread lock.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the left-side
7. Get on the bike and "crush" the shocks by jumping up and down on the seat
8. Go for a ride.

I have to say I am really surprised how much better the ride feels. I feel the modest investment was well worth it. I purchased the shocks from TEC Bikes. They responded to my questions via email, and I like the product.

Here are a couple of pics of mine and John's bikes. Mine's the one with the new shinney shocks. :biggrin:
 

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Glad you got it done and the bike rides better. Blue loctite really wasn't necessary, when properly tightened those bolts never come loose on their own but you covered all the bases.

That's a couple of really nice bikes right there. (y)
 
Thanks guys for the comments. Probably will leave the shock settings as is for the next few months. Nice comment from Jim regarding the quality of the shocks.
 
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