Hanging idle after load - 1973 CB450

Okay, adjusted cam again, set valves and ran the bike before messing with points to see if the noise dropped. Definitely sounds better. Not sure how I messed that up last time, but anyways thanks for the callout there.

Now I am rewriting for mech points and advancer. Just noticed they never removed the condensers… the solid state of the pamco should not need those. I read somewhere that this can mess with the circuit board and cause misfiring. Curious if this is an additional issue or related to the hanging idle. Going to continue with the switch to points.
Certainly could have led to the problem, at the very least it wasn't helping prevent it.
 
Okay, adjusted cam again, set valves and ran the bike before messing with points to see if the noise dropped. Definitely sounds better. Not sure how I messed that up last time, but anyways thanks for the callout there.

Now I am rewriting for mech points and advancer. Just noticed they never removed the condensers… the solid state of the pamco should not need those. I read somewhere that this can mess with the circuit board and cause misfiring. Curious if this is an additional issue or related to the hanging idle. Going to continue with the switch to points.
Not something I've ever been involved with, but if the condensers were still connected to the Pamco circuit you could just try disconnecting them first to see how it runs.
 
Test the condensers if you do decide to continue going back to points. I had two old sets of condensers and after testing found 3 were bad and only 1 appeared to be good. Bought new ones from 4into1 I believe.
 
Removed condensers and ran the pamco again. No dice. Could not align timing between the two cylinders. Decided to go back to mech points.

When I put the points plate on, it won’t fully seat. There is a gap. Is the advancer misaligned? Or is this gap fine?

Noted on Condensers, will check those next. IMG_0089.jpegIMG_0088.jpegIMG_0090.jpeg
 
The high part of the points cam is trying to open both sets of points, which is putting downward pressure on the plate which keeps you from just setting the plate in there. Push upward on the plate as you push down, it should drop into the recessed areas top and bottom of the points base.
 
The high part of the points cam is trying to open both sets of points, which is putting downward pressure on the plate which keeps you from just setting the plate in there. Push upward on the plate as you push down, it should drop into the recessed areas top and bottom of the points base.
Ah yea should have known. maybe a bit hot here to be doing this today. Thanks gonna keep going forward.
 
And remember, you have to start from the beginning with points gaps and timing. Highly unlikely that the gaps on the points will be right as it sits.
 
Test the condensers if you do decide to continue going back to points. I had two old sets of condensers and after testing found 3 were bad and only 1 appeared to be good. Bought new ones from 4into1 I believe.
All four condensers I have are shot…looks like i’m finishing this another day. Thanks for catching that.
 
All four condensers I have are shot…looks like i’m finishing this another day. Thanks for catching that.
Not questioning the diagnosis, but curious how you tested the condensers and what you found. Each should have a capacitance of about 0.25 μF, measured from either yellow or blue to the body. You probably need to use the capacitor setting on your multimeter.
 
Not questioning the diagnosis, but curious how you tested the condensers and what you found. Each should have a capacitance of about 0.25 μF, measured from either yellow or blue to the body. You probably need to use the capacitor setting on your multimeter.
Fair point, it isn't often you'd see 4 bad ones at the same time.
 
Not questioning the diagnosis, but curious how you tested the condensers and what you found. Each should have a capacitance of about 0.25 μF, measured from either yellow or blue to the body. You probably need to use the capacitor setting on your multimeter.
Touching the condenser body with the negative and positive to the lead wire, i charged the condenser on the resistance setting, the. intermittently released the charge on the dc volts setting, checking to see if charge was held between each partial release. then repeated.

all four condensers immediately read OL when in resistance mode. One of them would release a charge but not hold.

Is there another way to check them? I bought these off ebay so i am not assuming they are in working condition, only hoping…
 
Does your meter have a capacitor function? It would look like this: -||-. If so, you connect ground to the case and positive to either of the wire leads (blue or yellow) and read the capacitance. It should be 0.25 μF or 250 nF with some tolerance.

If you are unable to confirm that the condensers are good, you can still proceed to set up your ignition. If you notice excessive sparking at the points, then it would suggest the condensers are, in fact, bad.
 
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