Feels like I'm running out of options..

dubwoog

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2025
Total Posts
9
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Location
Lancaster, PA
Hey everyone! New member here and looking to hopefully get some advice/guidance for my 1976 CB360T project. To get things started, I purchased the bike about a month ago. The previous owner had informed me that the battery was dead, carbs likely needed to be cleaned, and a new rear brake rod was needed. Outside of those issues, he let me know the bike had been sitting for the better part of a year, mainly because he simply didn't have the time anymore to ride it. Well, after taking care of the initial issues I was told about, I realized I couldn't seem to get the bike to turn over. Since purchasing the bike I've cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, replaced the old battery, replaced the old spark plugs and properly gapped the new ones, replaced the ignition coils, condenser, and even the ignition points. I've also replaced the old fuel lines and petcocks and still can't get the bike to turn over. The bike will crank when using the electric starter, but will not actually fire even when spraying starter fluid directly into the carbs. I'm in the process of adjusting the valve clearance, cam chain, and finally the timing of the ignition. Outside of that, I'm kind of at a loss for what to do next if fully adjusting the timing doesn't work. Any insight, guidance, tips, tricks, advice, or anything else that may help me get the bike started would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
 
I realized I couldn't seem to get the bike to turn over.
Terminology is important when working on these bikes, so to be clear - when you say "turn over", to us that means the engine isn't rotating with the electric start. You mentioned getting a new battery so if the starter turns the engine, then it's turning over but not firing.
Since purchasing the bike I've cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, replaced the old battery, replaced the old spark plugs and properly gapped the new ones, replaced the ignition coils, condenser, and even the ignition points.
Do you have the FSM (factory service manual)? Did you set the points gaps at .014" after replacing them? And did you remove the advancer unit to check its operation and the condition of the return springs? If so, you could have accidentally removed the points cam lobe and put it back on 180° out.
I've also replaced the old fuel lines and petcocks and still can't get the bike to turn over. The bike will crank when using the electric starter, but will not actually fire even when spraying starter fluid directly into the carbs.
The bold statement is good (for discussion only, of course) but not firing on starting fluid says there's no spark, or at the wrong times.
I'm in the process of adjusting the valve clearance, cam chain, and finally the timing of the ignition. Outside of that, I'm kind of at a loss for what to do next if fully adjusting the timing doesn't work. Any insight, guidance, tips, tricks, advice, or anything else that may help me get the bike started would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
If you don't have it yet, download the FSM here and go over the timing adjustments.

 
Terminology is important when working on these bikes, so to be clear - when you say "turn over", to us that means the engine isn't rotating with the electric start. You mentioned getting a new battery so if the starter turns the engine, then it's turning over but not firing.

Do you have the FSM (factory service manual)? Did you set the points gaps at .014" after replacing them? And did you remove the advancer unit to check its operation and the condition of the return springs? If so, you could have accidentally removed the points cam lobe and put it back on 180° out.

The bold statement is good (for discussion only, of course) but not firing on starting fluid says there's no spark, or at the wrong times.

If you don't have it yet, download the FSM here and go over the timing adjustments.

Thank you for the reply and my apologies for my terminology being all over the place. I do have the FSM and it's been my main guiding source throughout this journey. I did test for spark when I was replacing the old spark plugs, which is why I'm thinking it has to do with timing. Regardng the points, I'll have to go back through and make sure they're gapped properly as I wasn't aware the first time around that they have a specific gap height. Also, thank you for suggesting to check the advancer unit, that's something I haven't looked over yet.
 
Just an experienced guess, since you weren’t sure about point gap. Your points are not properly gapped, or isolating washers misplaced. Do you have spark if you place a plug on the head.
 
I figured it out late last night! Of course it was after I fully adjusted the cam chain, valves, and re-set the ignition points. But, I decided to pour a very small amount of gas directly into the engine from one of the spark plug holes and gave it a start and after a little hesitation, it started right up! Turns out since the bike had sat for so long without any fuel in the system, when I finally added fuel, I never got all of the air out. I'm pretty sure by giving the engine fuel directly, I was able to force all the remaining air out and now it starts up every time. Thank you everyone for the suggestions. It really is just trial and error I guess. The next step is to make some other adjustments and get the bike to idle properly. Right now it wants to just rev up without me even touching the throttle.
 
Incorrect ignition timing and hanging advancer can cause hanging idle and/or runaway throttle like that. Also make sure the throttle cables aren't binding and of course air leaks.
 
Incorrect ignition timing and hanging advancer can cause hanging idle and/or runaway throttle like that. Also make sure the throttle cables aren't binding and of course air leaks.
I did notice that the throttle does not snap back after turning so I'm sure that's not helping either. Just going to have to go through the list until something works!
 
That would definitely be an issue. Possible cables are routed incorrectly. I can't tell in your avatar, but it looks heavily customized. If so, and you bought it this way, very real possibility those cables are not routed correctly and/or proper slack setup on the cables. Tends to be more of a problem when changing handlebars.
 
That would definitely be an issue. Possible cables are routed incorrectly. I can't tell in your avatar, but it looks heavily customized. If so, and you bought it this way, very real possibility those cables are not routed correctly and/or proper slack setup on the cables. Tends to be more of a problem when changing handlebars.
It's definitely my fault. The throttle was fine before I took the carbs off to rebuild them. I'll have to take try and disconnect the cables and reconnect them properly.
 
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