Cleaning tips after splitting the engine case on 1969 CB350

[notthatadam]

Currently rebuilding a CB350 engine that I foolishly disassembled 10 years ago.

I have the case split into bottom half (drain plug side) and top half (crankshaft and transmission side). Overall it's all pretty clean. Bottom half has globs of oil residue stuck to the inside of the case and in hard to reach places like under the oil tray.

Top half and gears look ok, but have dust and light debris on parts of the gears from the piston holes not being properly covered for years. I would like to clean these off so none of that gets into the oil passages.

What is the best way to clean the two separate case halfs and gears, crankshaft, transmission parts?

I'm looking for some basic diy solutions, as I don't have access to a parts washer or a garage to spray carb cleaner all over everything.

Also, what shouldn't I do to clean these parts.

 

[Boomer343]

You could buy some cheap oil and pour it over the parts and let it drip off into a bucket. A clean paint brush would help to clean but buy a good one that won't leave bristles everywhere.

For the cases I would suggest a product like Oil Lift .... www.oillift.net ... may not be available in the US but there are similar products. Hot water wash after soaking will speed the process.

I would also suggest acetone used with caution and ventilation to remove sealant residue and other deposits. Use an old facecloth as paper towel will just shred and leave more mess.

You can also use WD40 to flush and clean but I would not use it on gears and shafts. Many of us flush the crankshaft and you can use WD40 for that but it is messy process.

 

[Spokes]

I'm looking for some basic diy solutions, as I don't have access to a parts washer or a garage to spray carb cleaner all over everything.

Low VOC petroleum product like WD40 or PB Blaster. Buy a plastic tub with a cover from a local big box store that fits your parts and allows the cover to be snapped down. Spray down parts and let soak. Being in Minnesota this time of year means no riding likely for a while, so take your time.
Use cheap disposable chip brushes, wear disposable gloves and ventilate work area or do the degreasing outside. Stay far away from ignition sources as possible. Work the grease & oil to liquid. Soak up oily gunk with paper towels. Dispose oily paper towels outside in trash. (or burn barrel if you're out in the countryside) Always close your working tub after use.

When your parts are clean, wipe them down and place them in plastic zip lock bags with more paper towels. Should you be interested in water wash after solvent cleaning, Dish washing liquid works well. Always wipe water washed parts dry and spray them down with WD40. BTW, don't use "odorless mineral spirits" Odorless mineral spirits is a light emulsion and practically useless for heavy degreasing.

 

[notthatadam]

Thanks for the great tips; your suggestions are very helpful!

 

[Emlupi]

As mentioned above, get yourself a good sized plastic storage bin and some engine cleaner/degreaser. A scrub brush with good, stiff bristles will help to get the more stubborn grime off. You can take this outside so as not to create a mess/fumes in the house. Give the cleaner some time to do its job before giving everything a good scrubbing. Get the hose out and rinse the parts with clean water.





You can use a long handled flexible scrub brush to get down under the windage tray beneath the crankshaft. Use this with the engine cleaner and flush all the gunk out through the oil drain in the bottom of the case.



If you want things REALLY clean take your parts to a vendor that does vapor blasting. Your parts will come back looking like brand new.
For oil passages I use aerosol parts cleaner and make certain to see good flow coming out of the other end.

 

[ancientdad]

Another possibility, one I've used before with good success on my red 450 engine parts, is your local hot rod shop. If they have a machine shop in-house they probably have a hot tank, and an hour or two in a hot tank will clean up almost anything from crankcase halves.

 

[oldjeep]

I just use a foil turkey pan, some gasoline and a paint brush.

 

[ancientdad]

I just use a foil turkey pan, some gasoline and a paint brush.

Gasoline... the horror! That's what my father and I did when I was growing up. I'm not even sure what the first Honda shop I worked at used, can't recall but they must have used something more than a pan and brush, probably a Safety-Kleen unit.

 

[oldjeep]

Gasoline... the horror! That's what my father and I did when I was growing up. I'm not even sure what the first Honda shop I worked at used, can't recall but they must have used something more than a pan and brush, probably a Safety-Kleen unit.

For more horror, when I am done with the now gucky gasoline, I toss it in the fire pit and throw a match.

 

[ancientdad]

For more horror, when I am done with the now gucky gasoline, I toss it in the fire pit and throw a match.

I've done a bit of that myself before the acre next door was sold and I lost the use of a big fire pit dug by the PO, now I'm stuck with a burn barrel and less open space among the trees in my backyard.

 

[boddy]

Shopping around for some solvent for my parts washer and the prices have doubled in the last 5 years. Now anywhere from $120 to $150 for 5 gallons and I need two containers. Gas is looking pretty good at this point (but not in the parts washer ).

 

[ancientdad]

Shopping around for some solvent for my parts washer and the prices have doubled in the last 5 years. Now anywhere from $120 to $150 for 5 gallons and I need two containers. Gas is looking pretty good at this point (but not in the parts washer ).

It has gone up here too but it seems it went up more in Canada. I paid about $70 for 5 gallons earlier this year, and I poured off the cleanest leftovers from the 8 or so gallons I had previously through a piece of cheesecloth to filter out the debris and salvaged about 3 or 4 more gallons to use on dirtier parts.