CL450 project reboot, street-legal this time

Either way, the badges look perfect on your monkey tank.

Thanks Gunnar, I bought 2 sets of stickers and those badges and the badges were far and away the best looking for the tank. Now it looks more like it could have been that way from the factory (well, maybe just a little)
 
I can empathise with that Tom! I'm approaching 3 grand spent on mine and the engine is still on the bench! I can work out the price of CDI, stator and full original exhaust system but that leaves me short.
£2350 on nuts, bolts and sundries . . . . . . . ? :eek:

As you already know, I feel your pain... it's the pain of our addiction, but at least with this addiction comes a tangible reward - we get to ride them (eventually!)
 
Just went through most of the thread (don't have time at present for all of it)
First, really hate to say it, BUT' I've been telling people for at least 10 years to check oil transfer piece on all Honda twins that use it
Second, I have a bunch of various small screws, 1.8mm ~3mm plus the ability to make something to hold them by the head for shortening. (something like a miniature lantern chuck)
I'll see waht I can come up with after I finish 2 sets of CN360 carb mods in a week or two.
 
Just went through most of the thread (don't have time at present for all of it)
First, really hate to say it, BUT' I've been telling people for at least 10 years to check oil transfer piece on all Honda twins that use it
Second, I have a bunch of various small screws, 1.8mm ~3mm plus the ability to make something to hold them by the head for shortening. (something like a miniature lantern chuck)
I'll see waht I can come up with after I finish 2 sets of CN360 carb mods in a week or two.

Thanks PJ. If only I'd just washed the small oil filter cover and not disassembled it (having never done so prior on any 450 or other twin that uses that style cover, since when I worked on them at shops last was decades ago when they were still pretty new and never needed it) I wouldn't have missed the reassembly alignment issue that cost me parts, money and aggravation
 
Yeah, I never took them apart on 350 or 450/500T either 'back in the day'.
It was only when my sister got CJ250 and started having issues I started looking into the why of it
On my CD175 I just thought it was a 'one off' as I was chasing a GT500 Suzuki across Salisbury Plain (on the way to Stonehenge)
It was probably around 2004 before I saw CB350 seizing cam bearings (friend was racing CCS series, couple of bikes had issues on fast tracks)
Put two and two together, realised it's high oil pressure at trtansfer piece causing low oil pressure at cam bearings, same problem as CB/CJ250/360 and what caused cam bearing seizure on my 175 in 1977
 
First, really hate to say it, BUT' I've been telling people for at least 10 years to check oil transfer piece on all Honda twins that use it

Having a 1974 CL 450, could you explain what is this oil transfer piece, part number, where it goes and what has to be done on it.
 
VHT member GS Scott was in the Tampa Bay area over the weekend visiting family and took a couple hours to swing by. We had a nice visit hanging out in the garage, gave him an in-depth look at the 450 engine design and how the torsion bars work in the head. He has a 450 project for a later date and had never seen the inside of one of them. Before he left I went to fire up my 450 for him and of course, being a day where the temp never got past 60° after a 32° morning, the carbs were as cold as I've ever started it and it was pretty stubborn. In the process the petcock on my little chrome Monkey bike tank started seeping fuel when I switched it to reserve knowing the tank was low from my last ride. Had to kick it about 15 times between being cautious not to flood it with the very enrichening Mikuni enricheners and finding an almost dry plug when I pulled one to check, but finally got it running. Though it did stop seeping after the engine heat warmed it up, I have to look for a new petcock now for the 5+ year old tank. Briefly embarrassing moment... isn't that always the way it is when you want to show off something? :)
 
That is always the way, at least it wasn't during a sales attempt...
It's funny that Scott lives about 30 minutes from me (in New England we quote distance by using travel time) but I've only met him by phone and you AD at a different corner of the country, have met him in person. I guess that's the kind of group we're cultivating here right?
 
That is always the way, at least it wasn't during a sales attempt...
It's funny that Scott lives about 30 minutes from me (in New England we quote distance by using travel time) but I've only met him by phone and you AD at a different corner of the country, have met him in person. I guess that's the kind of group we're cultivating here right?

Well, it wouldn't likely have happened if he doesn't have his 94 year old parents (married over 70 years) and brother here in Florida, literally within 60 to 70 miles of me. He drove 1500 miles in 2 days, clearly unafraid of long trips either in a car or on a bike, and he visits his family here at least once a year. After meeting him, I'm quite sure local get-togethers are in your future with the many new members you've recently discovered around you. And he has a bunch of projects for keeping him busy in the future, starting with the SL175 he's currently working on. He's learning as he goes so you might be called upon for a local road trip to put an extra pair of experienced hands into the mix.
 
For some reason I thought you were up in the Panhandle? I have to take wife to Tampa in a couple of weeks, not sure if I'll have any 'time off' though.

Nope, never lived anywhere further north than where I am right now, previously in Lutz and the North Tampa area, then Wesley Chapel before moving here in 2016. If you do have some time let me know, I'll be around.... we rarely go anywhere.
 
Wow, just read the whole post, didn't realize what a long strange trip its been, only makes it that more rewarding to ride. As far as the tank badge "bolts" it sounds like a perfect job for a 3D printer. Don't know too much about that, probably overly expensive.
 
As far as the tank badge "bolts"

And what if you just take the OEM bolts, or kind of, cut the thread to leave just a little bit and glue the head on the badge. Not seen not known as we say here.
 
And what if you just take the OEM bolts, or kind of, cut the thread to leave just a little bit and glue the head on the badge. Not seen not known as we say here.

I did try to do that originally, but they're tiny (like maybe 3mm) and once I cut the threads off, the remaining head portion was still a bit long and I couldn't hold it properly to remove that last thread just under the base of the tapered head. Kinda hard to hold onto something that small to grind a little off. I even tried using the #1 phillips in the screwhead to try to hold it so I could grind off the length slowly and carefully, slipped off the screwdriver every time. Finally gave up. I was thinking about just putting some black sealer in the holes and wiping it smooth and flush with the top of the taper. It's not like people tell me about it, actually no one has ever said anything. I guess the glare off the chrome tank keeps them from seeing it.
 
Thanks, this is the abbreviated version, the other one had a ton of discussion during the DOH! period where I messed up the reassembly of the oil filter valve and caused myself a couple months of frustration and toasted parts. The old thread is almost 500 posts long. Yes, that is the stock front fender, I've always liked the CL version. It's similar to the CL350 fender but I'd be surprised if the interchanged. One thing to note about these fenders though - if any of the rivets are loose, before you install the fender you should have someone help you hold it over an anvil or the flat section of a big vise and use a 2 lb hammer and good sized drift to tighten up the rivets, or cracks will happen from the rivet hole outward. I had to do this to repair it after the fact, 2 cracks opened up after our 92 mile mountain ride last October. I tried a large pop rivet first, but the aluminum gave up pretty quickly. Good old JIS screws...

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Years ago I bought a ball end milling cutter to make a set for the dome head rivet.
More recently (10~11 years ago) I bought a 5mm ball end mill to do it all over again.
 
Years ago I bought a ball end milling cutter to make a set for the dome head rivet.
More recently (10~11 years ago) I bought a 5mm ball end mill to do it all over again.

Those things are really tough, I did everything I could to tighten them up but I couldn't get them any tighter so I did the screws instead. At least it saved the fender, and no one really notices the screws for whatever reason.
 
AD I just did a fairly good read of the journey your on with this bike and I feel better already about the issues I have had. Thanks ;)

Quite a challenging build and some interesting solutions around your work. I'll keep watching the post as the 450 DOHC motors seem popular on the build side here too.
 
AD I just did a fairly good read of the journey your on with this bike and I feel better already about the issues I have had. Thanks ;)

Quite a challenging build and some interesting solutions around your work. I'll keep watching the post as the 450 DOHC motors seem popular on the build side here too.

Thanks. I created my own problem when I didn't pay attention to the proper assembly of the oil filter valve, and it took me numerous disassemblies/repairs to finally discover what I'd done wrong. Prior to this bike I had never disassembled the oil filter cover because when I owned 450s previously they were much newer and needed so much less cleanup, and this time I thought it was important to clean every area after finding a lot of sludge in the lower case. Not paying attention to the (now obvious) correct assembly of things cost me. And of course, the underestimate of the strength needed for the rear fender mounts (or the excess weld cleanup, or both) led to the frame needing repair... so it was certainly a journey, fortunately with a successful and improved ending. Things turned out well with the help of a really good machinist and some high-quality TIG welds by the speed shop.

The 450 engine has always been a favorite of mine, it's unique to the twins and the biggest twin Honda made (aside from the short-lived longer stroke version of it at the end). I'm getting back to the engine for the drag bike project now, slow progress because every single piece needs attention due to the bottom end of it being collected bits and pieces.
 
I did try to do that originally, but they're tiny (like maybe 3mm) and once I cut the threads off, the remaining head portion was still a bit long and I couldn't hold it properly to remove that last thread just under the base of the tapered head. Kinda hard to hold onto something that small to grind a little off. I even tried using the #1 phillips in the screwhead to try to hold it so I could grind off the length slowly and carefully, slipped off the screwdriver every time. Finally gave up. I was thinking about just putting some black sealer in the holes and wiping it smooth and flush with the top of the taper. It's not like people tell me about it, actually no one has ever said anything. I guess the glare off the chrome tank keeps them from seeing it.


to hold the screw, what about using some flat stock and drilling a hole and countersink to fit the screw. Using another piece of flat stock you could then sandwich the screw between the 2 pieces and grind down the protruding screw to the desired length.
screw.jpg
tried to do a cut and paste but didn't post, so I took a pic and posted but came out sideways
 
to hold the screw, what about using some flat stock and drilling a hole and countersink to fit the screw. Using another piece of flat stock you could then sandwich the screw between the 2 pieces and grind down the protruding screw to the desired length.

That's a great idea, not sure why I didn't think of that myself. Thanks, now I can finish that job (y)

Not sure if you were trying to show a picture, there was a really long link to display an image but pictures won't display by using a link from VHT
 
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Hey Tom. Wow, lots of memories coming back as I looked at the engine tear-down pic's. I sure as heck never remember disassembling the centrifugal oil filter cover. I'm sorry that little detail got you. I sure do remember washing the sludge out of a lot of centrifugal filters though; many required scrapping it out because it was so densely packed inside.

It was great seeing you Monday and a lot of fun looking at this forum discussion.

See you again soon!
 
Hey Tom. Wow, lots of memories coming back as I looked at the engine tear-down pic's. I sure as heck never remember disassembling the centrifugal oil filter cover. I'm sorry that little detail got you. I sure do remember washing the sludge out of a lot of centrifugal filters though; many required scrapping it out because it was so densely packed inside.

It was great seeing you Monday and a lot of fun looking at this forum discussion.

See you again soon!
Steve, it was great seeing you and Steve V as well, amazing to catch up with you both after 50 years.

For those who wouldn't know - which is literally damn near everyone here - the two Steves I met with were coworkers of mine at Sun Coast Honda in 1975/76 (or more accurately, I was a coworker of theirs as they were both working there before and after I did), and after our former boss recently passed they visited with his widow and among so many other things that came up, so did my name. So @S.W. did some internet sleuthing and found me here.

I'm still envious that they both got to go to Honda training school and I never did :ROFLMAO:
 
I've mentioned some of the Honda dealerships I used to work for many times here, but with nothing to show of them except the one Honda Village sticker on the rear fender cut that @RobMan gave me. I was pleasantly surprised when Steve V showed us a picture of a shadowbox he put together long ago of little bits and pieces of memorabilia from 3 of the 5 Honda dealerships - because it turns out they both worked for 3 of the same dealerships I did along the way. So cool to see these little tidbits of history.

shadowbox.jpeg
 
Got the cases back from the hot tank, looking so much better. A little corrosion on the back of the upper case undoubtedly from a wayward battery vent tube's acid drips. I had just enough Oyster Silver left to fog a little on the upper case later to help it look its best.

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So I forgot that I did take pictures of the other outer covers...

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A little gingerbread for the engine, courtesy of my wife's steadier hand

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And the first simply gorgeous part was ready. I cut off the sidestand mount portion of the left footpeg and had Mike weld it to the frame in the proper position so it would be a permanent part of the frame (and so the powdercoat guy wouldn't want to charge me for another separate part)

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Put the bottom end together using the marvelous JIS screws from the Motion Pro assortment I bought, because I wanted JIS screws in the engine and not allen heads. Moved the bottom end to the rack for the top end assembly.

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And got the VIN plate back on the purdy frame

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Wow, the powder coat is so gorgeous. Sometime when I have the time I'd love to do this to mine. It's got some minor surface rust all over the frame, for now I'll just lightly sand and rattle can it black to stop the rust in it's tracks. How pricey was this? like 100-400 probably at least right?
 
Wow, the powder coat is so gorgeous. Sometime when I have the time I'd love to do this to mine. It's got some minor surface rust all over the frame, for now I'll just lightly sand and rattle can it black to stop the rust in it's tracks. How pricey was this? like 100-400 probably at least right?
Thanks! Once they did it over for me after the sand in the finish the second time it was done... It was $175 for the frame and $75 for the swingarm. But that was 7 years ago for the frame because of the repair, and the year before for the swingarm which did not need to be redone.
 
One more that I couldn't fit in the previous, not that it's a big deal - the 400F bars, new levers and perches and the OEM right switch. Oh yeah, and the worst set of aftermarket passenger pegs ever, they look the part but began to droop as soon as my feet were on them the first time. They're in the garbage now

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So began the work on the frame, tabs and seat mounts/lock and helmet holders all trimmed off, both mounts for the rear fender cut out and my welder friend Mike replaced them with something more appropriate for the aftermarket fender. Don't worry, the tank was dry, no fuel put in it yet.

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And an idea I came up with on the fly, move the ignition switch up a bit, tucked in near the tank to fill in the open space left by the coils being moved and the tank set rearward

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I removed the factory brake pedal stop bracket, brake light switch bracket and a clip for brake light switch wire and had Mike weld them in their new positions

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And new coil mounts would need to be placed behind the engine as they wouldn't fit under the new tiny gas tank

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The fender was initially fitted and drilled for mounting bolts. Too bad hindsight wasn't available then or I would have realized that we did too much weld cleanup on the forward fender mount, and the rear mount for the fender just wasn't going to be strong enough. In the end, it cost me a second powdercoat job, which turned into a third.... explained later

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This custom rear fender really is interesting. I love how the look came out in the end with the extra clearance on it.
 
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