Yes, unfortunately they're in the US as you might expect.
Rocker Arms Unlimited - rockerarms.com
Oregon Camshaft - oregoncamshaft.com
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CB350 to cafe' from scratch by a (not so much) teen
- Thread starter Alon
- Start date
Rocker Arms Unlimited - rockerarms.com
Oregon Camshaft - oregoncamshaft.com
Quite a distance from you but
https://www.oregoncamshaft.com/ for the camshaft
https://www.rockerarms.com/ for the rocker arms
The camshaft company has new master cams for regrinding yours made from NOS cams.
The rocker arm company has New rocker arms for quality control purposes.
It's not as much about proper functioning with that level of "wear and tear", it's more about longevity. They'd work fine for now as is, but the pitting on some areas will only continue to get worse and the wear on the rocker arms would create difficulty in getting the valves correctly adjusted too.
Long term the pitting will create a grinding effect on the rocker pads and cam lobes wearing both down. If left alone it won't create a catastrophic failure but will cause degradation of the power.
If you replaced all the gaskets and seals previously but the engine has never been through any heat cycles, they should all be like new. However, any gasket you disturb now should be replaced when you reassemble it (unless it came off the surfaces completely clean and without damage).Should I replace all the gaskets and seals? The motor never ran since the rebuild I did 8 years ago?
Should I get a new circlip that holds the piston pins if I removed them, in other words are they a one-time part? I saw that they mentioned that in a those guys in Houston video.
If so, is there a specific size? I'm asking cause I have 65.5 mm pistons from Bore-Tech (They closed shop years ago)
If so, is there a specific size? I'm asking cause I have 65.5 mm pistons from Bore-Tech (They closed shop years ago)
The wristpin is what governs the size of the clips, not the piston size, so stock wristpin clips are fine for your pistons. Yes, I'd replace them each use to be safe.
I would measure the diameter of the circlip you are currently using versus OEM to make sure they are the same diameter. I used aftermarket pistons that came with wristpins, rings and circlips. I had also bought OEM circlips but couldn't use them as the groove in the piston was slightly larger and I didn't feel comfortable using them so went with the clips that came with the pistons.
The clips are a one time usage, one and done.
They don't belong there.
Yes, just one. Look at the next page in you book and you'll see the Required # column shows 1
It’s always one step forward and two steps back… So I put the pistons on, then the cylinders and finally the head.
When I came to torque the two bolts on either side (6 ft lbs / 72 inch lbs), I noticed the hole on the right side of the engine is kind of stripped. It won’t take any torque, not even hand tight (I was gentle with it). Any way, what can I do with this? If I’m not mistaken the torque for the whole top end will come from the 8 hex nut caps on the very to of the cam cover.
Should I try using loctite on it? Helicoil? Larger bolt?
Thanks!
When I came to torque the two bolts on either side (6 ft lbs / 72 inch lbs), I noticed the hole on the right side of the engine is kind of stripped. It won’t take any torque, not even hand tight (I was gentle with it). Any way, what can I do with this? If I’m not mistaken the torque for the whole top end will come from the 8 hex nut caps on the very to of the cam cover.
Should I try using loctite on it? Helicoil? Larger bolt?
Thanks!
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Heli-coil is the best option here
Hi j see that you have pamco e avancer.can you please send me sommes foto of conection
Tank you very match
Stéphane
Check your PMs (private messages).
ballbearian
Veteran Member
That allen head and washer may stick up too high and cause a cross thread spark plug. I remember finding that issue on 350.
Good catch Tom
I've had multiple issues like that. I got all the new bolts from Alloy Boltz. The top motor mount bolts were too thick, so I had to use the old ones. Two different washers from the engine case set interfered with mounting the engine. Also, one of the long M6 bolts was missing from the kit.
In this particular case, these bolts aren't making contact. I know this from the previous startup attempt, before the issue with the kickstarter falling apart inside the engine case.
But thanks for taking such a close look!
Still have the dimples so they're fine there. Thickness should be good. Warpage needs to be checked but probably fine since they don't look overheated.
Since LT is TDC (top dead center) for the left piston, the camshaft decides if it's on compression stroke or exhaust stroke. If you have the cam timing mark set correctly and it won't start, you might have the points cam on the advancer 180° out. Does it "backfire" and pop but not run? or nothing at all?
I have a pamco electronic ignition so no points. It did get some smoke coming from the intake.. but a really small amount
I'd guess you're 180 degrees out. Set the crank to LF and check the Left intake and exhaust valves for being loose. That's the firing stroke position.
There’s something I’m missing here. If before inserting the camshaft I place the crankshaft on LT and then insert the sprocket with the line and L mark parallel to the cam housing then the cam has only one way of going in and that should complete the timing right? What I’m not understanding is how could you decide on tdc for compression stroke or exhaust stroke before inserting the camshaft? So in other words if I place the crankshaft on LT and insert the cam with the sprocket’s line and L mark parallel then how could I be 180 degrees out of phase?
It’s the pickup for the Pamco - and really any EI. It’s possible (almost easy) to install those 180 out from where they should be. I’ve pulled that one off a few times.
While the picture would be helpful to someone who has installed one, there aren't many of those people around here at VHT since Pete's Pamco ignition has been out of production for close to 10 years now. I assumed the instructions pictures would have been adequate for addressing that. Looking at the pics in the Word doc instructions, the only thing I see that is different would be the rotor replacement for the advancer but I'm not sure it would be helpful because it is slightly different than yours (added holes). However, if you go by the two holes that appear to be "staked" in appearance (assumedly over the magnets) then yours might be 180° off.
I wondered if it had two notches 180° apart, kinda like the points cam can be installed either way on the stock advancer. Guess that isn't it then.
On the pano it has the red? leads that go to the box - make sure those haven’t gotten flipped.
I’ve done this every single time with a new EI - everything perfect and firing the wrong side.
OMG you're a life savor. I didn't understand what you meant regarding the red wire but you got me looking over all the pamco wiring and I did it all correctly except for the final green and white wires. I switched them! I put the white on the left and the green on the right. Put them back correctly and It fired in one kick!
I’ve been working on a battery and electronics box and today I found a place that let me work there. Now I’ll plan how everything will sit inside and drill holes for the reg/rec that will sit underneath and prepare the connection points. Here’s the result before paint:
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Another pic of the bike with battery box and all the wiring tidied up (the seat is just laying on top, not actually connected).
View attachment IMG_4959.jpeg
View attachment IMG_4959.jpeg
I noticed I forgot to insert 2 knock pins (dowels) somewhere or between the cylinders and head or between the head and cam box. Should I take the engine out again and put them in? I’d really rather not but if it’s a must then that’s what I’ll do.
If you're sure they've been left out, unfortunately yes. Though things are well-clamped together at this point, the knock pins are there for a reason and parts could potentially shift under load over time, which could cause problems. You might wait for others to reply to get more opinions, and maybe someone has done it previously and did not have any complications from it, but IMO they need to be in place. And, you'll need a new head gasket at the very least.
Thanks for your input! Why would I need a new gasket though? It’s brand new