CB160 torque specs

Yakeye

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I am close to buttoning up my CL160 D engine which is really a CB engine. There is a real lack of torque spec info in the FSM for the complete engine!!! Torque specs are just left blank. Zero info on cylinder head nut torque values!!! What are other 160 owners using for values or have you been able to find Honda recommended values somewhere ?? @EzPete @Flyin900 Thanks for any info!
 
I am close to buttoning up my CL160 D engine which is really a CB engine. There is a real lack of torque spec info in the FSM for the complete engine!!! Torque specs are just left blank. Zero info on cylinder head nut torque values!!! What are other 160 owners using for values or have you been able to find Honda recommended values somewhere ?? @EzPete @Flyin900 Thanks for any info!
IMG_2168.jpeg
This is what the Clymer book has. I figured it’s an M8 stud, so that checks out.

On everything else I went with the standard torque values based on the generic service manual.
M6 - 9-11
M8- 13-18
M10 - 30-40
M12 - gudentite (German torque spec)
 
View attachment 54231
This is what the Clymer book has. I figured it’s an M8 stud, so that checks out.

On everything else I went with the standard torque values based on the generic service manual.
M6 - 9-11
M8- 13-18
M10 - 30-40
M12 - gudentite (German torque spec)
Pete , thank you !! Just what I was looking for. I do not have a Clymer…..only the Honda FSM. Does the common /generic service manual go back far enough to cover these bikes from 1960’s and 70’s??
 
Pete , thank you !! Just what I was looking for. I do not have a Clymer…..only the Honda FSM. Does the common /generic service manual go back far enough to cover these bikes from 1960’s and 70’s??
I think the early FSM’s were designed to be used in conjunction with the Honda common service manual - the shop I worked at eons ago was independent but leaned heavily Kawi, so I don’t know for sure - it just seems like there’s whole sections that the FSM for the model was designed as a supplement.
 
Here's what I have from a FSM for 125cc to 175cc Sloper twin motors. The torque sequence is different than the other top plate bolt tightening sequence shown previously on what is an upright motor. I always work middle to the outside of my work anyway.
I use a very light oil to lube the studs prior to final assembly of the cap nuts with just a small amount on the threads.
I use 192 inch lbs as my top number achieved with 3 pulls of 96 inch lbs first, then 144 inch pounds second all after letting sit for 6-8 hrs in between pulls. Last pull is 192 inch pounds usually the next day.
I have never retorqued or had any issues with the above procedure that I use.

CL160 top plate -head.jpg
 
Here's what I have from a FSM for 125cc to 175cc Sloper twin motors. The torque sequence is different than the other top plate bolt tightening sequence shown previously on what is an upright motor. I always work middle to the outside of my work anyway.
I use a very light oil to lube the studs prior to final assembly of the cap nuts with just a small amount on the threads.
I use 192 inch lbs as my top number achieved with 3 pulls of 96 inch lbs first, then 144 inch pounds second all after letting sit for 6-8 hrs in between pulls. Last pull is 192 inch pounds usually the next day.
I have never retorqued or had any issues with the above procedure that I use.

View attachment 54234
Flyin thank you for your technique described above! Very helpful info!!
 
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