Hello everyone, I've had my carbs tuned on my bike before and it was a pain in the ass. Now I've done my 1500 mile service again, I.E valve adjustment, cam chain adjustment, points gap and timing adjustment. For the life of my I can't seem to get these carbs tuned right. In located in central Indiana near Indianapolis, and I was wondering if anyone here would be able to help me get these carbs tuned right. Obvious im Willing to pay for the service, but any and all help is appreciated.
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71 CL175 carb tune
- Thread starter hnkrader
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- carb tune cl175 indianapolis
I just spent the last couple weeks dialing mine in, what are the running symptoms?
Also, they were tuned right before, but now they are not - what happened, did you mess with the settings or did the bike just start running poorly after you did all those other service items?
Also, they were tuned right before, but now they are not - what happened, did you mess with the settings or did the bike just start running poorly after you did all those other service items?
Apologies on the late reply, but one day I went to ride and the bike wouldn't run. It's start but die at throttle and so on. I did the 1500 mile service, and then attempted tuning the carbs. It runs fine after 1/4 throttle so it's just issue of getting a good idle. Carbs float height was set to 21mm back when I replaced the carbs, and I haven't had any issues with them until that weird issue with it not wanting to run. Issues are just a hanging idle/lean high idle.i should note I did get them to not gave this issue, but the bike still didn't want to idle or start without throttle help. I follow the steps that the service manual says but I just feel like I'm not tuning it right. The idle air screws feel like they have little to no affect on the bikes idle after kind of getting both carbs to idle at about 1200 rpms. I just cant for the life of me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I back both idle screws out until the slides just barely lift, then back down to no lift. Start with both mixture screws turned to one fill turn out from gently bottomed out. Then I start the bike with throttle and attempt to set turn one carb till it idles higher than why I'm holding at, and the same for the other carb, then backing each down until it returns to idle at 1200. But I can't seem to get past this part. It's like I'm turning the screws even bottomed out has like zero effect on the idle. I'm not quite sure what I'm doing wrong. Both carbs are brand new, with only about 1500 miles on them. I also don't have a clean tank, new petcock, and also only put 93 into the bike. A video/detailed explanation would be extremely appreciated as I'm much more a visual learner.
Cheers,
Kyle
Should also mention valves all set to .002, points gap set at .012, timing dead on, and compression healthy, I believe about 165-170 on both sides
Ok so you've got a hanging/high lean idle and the throttle stop/mixture screws have no effect. That sounds like classic air leak symptoms, have you ruled that out? I'm sure you have cleaned the carbs by now, clogged idle circuit is the other obvious culprit.
Float bowl gaskets can swell and press against floats, affecting fuel delivery, check that. Make sure needles and throttle slides are installed correctly, and cables aren't binding up.
Float bowl gaskets can swell and press against floats, affecting fuel delivery, check that. Make sure needles and throttle slides are installed correctly, and cables aren't binding up.
Checked air leaking first a little bit ago, sprayed some carb clean all over the carbs and no surge in idle. Took the carbs apart, verified 21mm float height, cleaned out idle circuit, still the same ****. It wants to hang at 3.5k and 5k rpms on decel. I'm at a loss as to what's the issue.
Not sure if anyone else has asked but, did you check the advancer springs to see if they were a little sloppy? Timing can be right, even full advance timing, but if the springs are a little loose it will cause the engine to float down to idle.