mikemill
Veteran Member
My pipes came back from the ceramic coater today and I couldn’t be more pleased with the results. So shiny!
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1973 CL350 Restore - First Timer!
- Thread starter mikemill
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mikemill
Veteran Member
I might be installing my levers and brake cables next weekend, so I have a question about adjusting twin leading shoe front drum brakes. As detailed above, I already aligned the punch marks on the brake plate cams cams, made sure the cam faces were parallel, and adjusted the linkage rod to that point so they move in unison.
So with the brake plate cams moving in unison, what else do I need to do to adjust the brakes as I mount the wheel on the bike and install the brake cable?
(I know the fork caps are installed on the axle with the taller side in front, and that you torque the front first and the back second. I'm specifically asking about brake adjustment for proper brake feel and stopping power.)
So with the brake plate cams moving in unison, what else do I need to do to adjust the brakes as I mount the wheel on the bike and install the brake cable?
(I know the fork caps are installed on the axle with the taller side in front, and that you torque the front first and the back second. I'm specifically asking about brake adjustment for proper brake feel and stopping power.)
mikemill
Veteran Member
With reading that and sort of deciphering Outdobie's post, I think my plan is:
- Match up the punch marks on the brake plate arms. DONE
- Loosen the locknut on the linkage between the arms and align the cams so both cam faces are parallel. DONE
- Tighten the linkage locknut in this position and make sure the two arms move in perfect unison. DONE
- Thread axle through hub and hand-tighten axle nut.
- Place axle in fork legs and tighten left side fork-cap nuts to spec (front, then back)
- Hand-tighten right side fork-cap nuts.
- Spin wheel and have a second operator brake hard at the lever, stopping the wheel and aligning brake shoes with drum.
- Tighten axle nut to spec or until bearings and spacers are snug in hub.
- Adjust lower brake cable until I feel the shoes touch at about 1/16" to 1/18" gap at lever to perch joint.
- High five and go get a beer.
Just catching up.
Swing arm pivot bolt is torqued to 550-700 kg. cm or 40-50 ft. lbs It's on page 163 of the early FSM, not to be found in the later version for some reason.
Speedo drive is just packed full of a waterproof grease, enough so the drive and gear are covered.
On the stem bearings. I had the problem that the spanner nut would only catch 1 thread initially. I finally ground out the 4 ears inside the cap portion to get full engagement of the nut threads.
Swing arm pivot bolt is torqued to 550-700 kg. cm or 40-50 ft. lbs It's on page 163 of the early FSM, not to be found in the later version for some reason.
Speedo drive is just packed full of a waterproof grease, enough so the drive and gear are covered.
On the stem bearings. I had the problem that the spanner nut would only catch 1 thread initially. I finally ground out the 4 ears inside the cap portion to get full engagement of the nut threads.
mikemill
Veteran Member
I’m putting together the clutch basket and oil slinger on the engine right side today and ran into something I’m curious/slightly concerned about.
When torquing down the special lock nut inside the oil slinger and attempting to remove the penny I used to jam the primary drive and clutch basket gear, I discovered that I can only turn my crankshaft in one direction — clockwise if looking at it from the engine right side. No amount of force seems to get it to rotate the other way (as I was trying in order to loosen the bite on the penny between the gears).
Is this normal??
When torquing down the special lock nut inside the oil slinger and attempting to remove the penny I used to jam the primary drive and clutch basket gear, I discovered that I can only turn my crankshaft in one direction — clockwise if looking at it from the engine right side. No amount of force seems to get it to rotate the other way (as I was trying in order to loosen the bite on the penny between the gears).
Is this normal??
mikemill
Veteran Member
Starter motor and starter clutch were rebuilt. The starter motor works great. Last weekend I installed the starter motor on the bike, including the chain that connects it to the crank on the motor left side. So that would prevent the crank from rotating one way?
mikemill
Veteran Member
Ok, I pulled the left-side cover and grabbed a fist full of alternator and it does rotate both ways, it’s just dang hard. Probably from being cold and sitting for a while since building it. Not sure how hard it should be.
mikemill
Veteran Member
The other thing that came out of today’s wrench session is a new problem with the front brake!
My levers and perches came in so I set up the front brake cable to see how they do. The result was that the shoes DO prevent rotation of the hub, but the entire axle assembly rotates in the fork legs if enough forward pressure is applied to the handlebars.
I had the fork bottom cap nuts really cranked down (don’t know exact torque). What can I do to prevent the axle/hub plate from rotating?
My levers and perches came in so I set up the front brake cable to see how they do. The result was that the shoes DO prevent rotation of the hub, but the entire axle assembly rotates in the fork legs if enough forward pressure is applied to the handlebars.
I had the fork bottom cap nuts really cranked down (don’t know exact torque). What can I do to prevent the axle/hub plate from rotating?
mikemill
Veteran Member
I am learning a tremendous amount on my journey to build this bike. Now that I know I’m missing the torque stay, I’m not worried about the brake plate rotation. I’ll get that torque stay installed this weekend.
In the meantime, I pulled the brake plate to double-check everything was set up well. I’d like to run it by you guys before final wheel assembly.
This video shows how my brake arm linkage is adjusted. Both arms moving at the exact same time?
And here are photos of my brake cams and how the shoes sit in them. One of the shoes doesn’t appear to be perfectly square, but I dont think I can do anything about it because moving the cam one spline over is too much of an adjustment.
Shoe/Cam pair #1
Shoe/Cam pair #2
Overhead view
In the meantime, I pulled the brake plate to double-check everything was set up well. I’d like to run it by you guys before final wheel assembly.
This video shows how my brake arm linkage is adjusted. Both arms moving at the exact same time?
And here are photos of my brake cams and how the shoes sit in them. One of the shoes doesn’t appear to be perfectly square, but I dont think I can do anything about it because moving the cam one spline over is too much of an adjustment.
Shoe/Cam pair #1
Shoe/Cam pair #2
Overhead view
mikemill
Veteran Member
Sorry about the video orientation...I was super annoyed when I uploaded it and discovered it was portrait instead of landscape...rookie mistake.
The thing with that particular arm is that it is impossible to match the dots exactly. The dot on the arm is either slightly to the left of the dot on the shaft or slightly to the right of it. So that might be preventing the shoe from being perfectly square on the cam. Which, may have been causing my previous issues with the brake shoes not fitting in the hub since the cam is pushing that shoe out ever so slightly.
Nevertheless, I'm dying to close the book on these blasted brakes, so I'll take your advice and button it up as is and reassess on the first ride.
The thing with that particular arm is that it is impossible to match the dots exactly. The dot on the arm is either slightly to the left of the dot on the shaft or slightly to the right of it. So that might be preventing the shoe from being perfectly square on the cam. Which, may have been causing my previous issues with the brake shoes not fitting in the hub since the cam is pushing that shoe out ever so slightly.
Nevertheless, I'm dying to close the book on these blasted brakes, so I'll take your advice and button it up as is and reassess on the first ride.
mikemill
Veteran Member
I didn't end up cracking open the front hub because I popped on that stopper arm and everything was MUCH better
We'll see what it's like when I'm actually on the bike, but for now it looks like it stops just fine.
[video=youtube;6OqOlM7GeqU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=17&v=6OqOlM7GeqU&feature=emb_l ogo[/video]
I don't think my cable is adjusted yet, but will tackle that after I have my handlebar finally assembled.
[video=youtube;6OqOlM7GeqU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=17&v=6OqOlM7GeqU&feature=emb_l ogo[/video]
I don't think my cable is adjusted yet, but will tackle that after I have my handlebar finally assembled.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Anyone got a CL350 rear brake pedal and return spring in good condition they want to sell me? NOS is over $100 which is too expensive for me and so far eBay options look as bad as the one I already own.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Hey people, I feel like it's been forever since I posted, and I'm sorry for posting less frequently and with less photos. Things are busy and I'm just trying to squeeze in time to wrench on the bike, let alone post to HT! But I want to update you guys on what's going on with the build.
First off, I did source a pretty good looking rear brake lever and spring from eBay. So I installed that along with the rest of the rear brake mechanism. I'm not exactly sure how to adjust everything like pedal travel and tension on the brake rod spring near the rear hub, so that will take some additional research. But, with that, the brakes and wheels are DONE.
After that, I got new OEM pilot foot pegs and rubber grips installed with original hardware that I cleaned up with a brass wire wheel and some autosol. For the actual assembly, I just shot WD-40 into the rubber grips and pounded the pegs in with a rubber mallet. The WD-40 will just evaporate. Of course, I used a bit of grease on the moving parts.
Then I rolled her outside (yeah, BabyBiker, you're not the only guy with parents who let you bring your bike in the house!) and took an angle grinder to that sweet sweet frame. The guy who fabbed up the tail loop did a miserable job on what can't even be called a "battery box" so I had to cut it off and basically start over. So, if anyone has tips for touch-up painting the areas that are now bare steel, let me know!
(Sorry guys, I couldn't get the pictures to load on this one. I might circle back later after my backlog of new stuff I still haven't posted.) :sad:
First off, I did source a pretty good looking rear brake lever and spring from eBay. So I installed that along with the rest of the rear brake mechanism. I'm not exactly sure how to adjust everything like pedal travel and tension on the brake rod spring near the rear hub, so that will take some additional research. But, with that, the brakes and wheels are DONE.
After that, I got new OEM pilot foot pegs and rubber grips installed with original hardware that I cleaned up with a brass wire wheel and some autosol. For the actual assembly, I just shot WD-40 into the rubber grips and pounded the pegs in with a rubber mallet. The WD-40 will just evaporate. Of course, I used a bit of grease on the moving parts.
Then I rolled her outside (yeah, BabyBiker, you're not the only guy with parents who let you bring your bike in the house!) and took an angle grinder to that sweet sweet frame. The guy who fabbed up the tail loop did a miserable job on what can't even be called a "battery box" so I had to cut it off and basically start over. So, if anyone has tips for touch-up painting the areas that are now bare steel, let me know!
(Sorry guys, I couldn't get the pictures to load on this one. I might circle back later after my backlog of new stuff I still haven't posted.) :sad:
Mike, it took me 10 minutes to catch up... 
what an update to the thread. Nice work as always, good to see more progress (here).
what an update to the thread. Nice work as always, good to see more progress (here).
I aligned the brake shoe pivots as close to parallel as I could see. Then after I installed the shoes I found they moved out of sync slightly so I adjusted the bar again to have both shoes start moving at exactly the same time.
The front axle actually has a torque spec of 40-47 ft. lbs., not hand tight. Of course there's not socket or other tool to use with a torque wrench so it's a case of get it there the best and closest you can. With the axle cap tight on one side you can get it pretty good.
Remember the axle caps are directional, long side in front, and the front nut is torqued first then the rear. And yes you'll have a gap in the rear.
The front axle actually has a torque spec of 40-47 ft. lbs., not hand tight. Of course there's not socket or other tool to use with a torque wrench so it's a case of get it there the best and closest you can. With the axle cap tight on one side you can get it pretty good.
Remember the axle caps are directional, long side in front, and the front nut is torqued first then the rear. And yes you'll have a gap in the rear.
mikemill
Veteran Member
This weekend, I have a pile of parts waiting to be put on the bike including UNI air filters and beautiful MotoGadget handlebar gear. I plan to get the carbs and filters on to take final measurement of my new battery box design, drill the handlebar for wiring and install grips, switches, mirrors, etc.
Oh, and I have a custom wiring harness on the way from Sparck Moto. Should be here in a month. And because I haven't posted my wiring diagram on my build thread yet, take a look!
View attachment Wiring Diagram new (2).pdf
Oh, and I have a custom wiring harness on the way from Sparck Moto. Should be here in a month. And because I haven't posted my wiring diagram on my build thread yet, take a look!
View attachment Wiring Diagram new (2).pdf
Last video! Your cable is in wrong. The larger nut piece that's partially a sleeve fit inside the cable perch, the other nut is a lock nut and is on the other side.
Also you're missing the brake stay lock washer tab
Also you're missing the brake stay lock washer tab
mikemill
Veteran Member
Hi HondaTwins fam,
It's been a dreadfully long time since I've posted on my build thread, and I'm deeply sorry to anyone who has been following my progress. Life and roadblocks have gotten in the way of my wrenching time, and lately, COVID-19 has pulled it to a screeching halt. My bike is in my dads garage, and being over 70, he is in the risk category and I'm not really visiting to wrench on the bike.
However, I have made some exciting progress since we last talked, and it's high time I get back on here and start updating you about my project again! My interest in and energy toward finishing this bike has not diminished one bit and I intend to do so with flying colors. I know some guys on here are probably losing patience and just want to see it done already, but especially now internet friends are more important than ever, so I appreciate all of you who are sticking around and posting advice and comments on this thread! You guys are literally making this build possible...and now providing some much needed human interaction.
Last time I worked on my bike, she got a hell of a face lift. I'm talking the whole works. New bar, controls, levers, bar-end indicators, mirrors, and boy does she look pretty. I went MotoGadget for as much of it as my wallet could stomach, and the rest is generic stuff like levers from 4into1 for like $8.
Drilling the bar wasn't as bad as I thought. I just held it in a cloth-lined vice, punched it, drilled a 1/4 pilot, then drilled out to 1/2". I chamfered the perimeter with a larger bit and de-burred the edge with a needle file in lieu of using rubber grommets.
Marking where to punch was more interesting, though. I lined up the switch housings in a comfortable position on the bar, but unscrewed the switches. Then I took the bar off the bike, dipped a punch in grease, and dabbed the bar where I wanted a hole. The grease remained after removing the switch housings, revealing where to punch without damaging expensive equipment.
I used WD-40 to slip the grips on, which evaporates and gives a nice snug fit.
For even more details and awesome imagery, check out the article I wrote on this process at Return of the Cafe Racers.
I also mounted my carbs--sticking with the keihins for now--and uni foam air filters. I used copper gasket spray on the new carb boots.
It's been a dreadfully long time since I've posted on my build thread, and I'm deeply sorry to anyone who has been following my progress. Life and roadblocks have gotten in the way of my wrenching time, and lately, COVID-19 has pulled it to a screeching halt. My bike is in my dads garage, and being over 70, he is in the risk category and I'm not really visiting to wrench on the bike.
However, I have made some exciting progress since we last talked, and it's high time I get back on here and start updating you about my project again! My interest in and energy toward finishing this bike has not diminished one bit and I intend to do so with flying colors. I know some guys on here are probably losing patience and just want to see it done already, but especially now internet friends are more important than ever, so I appreciate all of you who are sticking around and posting advice and comments on this thread! You guys are literally making this build possible...and now providing some much needed human interaction.
Last time I worked on my bike, she got a hell of a face lift. I'm talking the whole works. New bar, controls, levers, bar-end indicators, mirrors, and boy does she look pretty. I went MotoGadget for as much of it as my wallet could stomach, and the rest is generic stuff like levers from 4into1 for like $8.
Drilling the bar wasn't as bad as I thought. I just held it in a cloth-lined vice, punched it, drilled a 1/4 pilot, then drilled out to 1/2". I chamfered the perimeter with a larger bit and de-burred the edge with a needle file in lieu of using rubber grommets.
Marking where to punch was more interesting, though. I lined up the switch housings in a comfortable position on the bar, but unscrewed the switches. Then I took the bar off the bike, dipped a punch in grease, and dabbed the bar where I wanted a hole. The grease remained after removing the switch housings, revealing where to punch without damaging expensive equipment.
I used WD-40 to slip the grips on, which evaporates and gives a nice snug fit.
For even more details and awesome imagery, check out the article I wrote on this process at Return of the Cafe Racers.
I also mounted my carbs--sticking with the keihins for now--and uni foam air filters. I used copper gasket spray on the new carb boots.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Thanks Jim, that's super helpful. I wouldn't have noticed those things otherwise.
Mine is also missing the lock tab in the picture, there's one on each end of the brake stay. I've since installed those after buying new ones to replace the ones that were in a "safe place" which I found the day the newest ones came.
Nick_Brox
Veteran Member
jpcharlebois
Member
I really dig the style of this bike. Are you still riding with no gauges?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikemill
Veteran Member
Thanks man! I fully restored my original gauges, which you will read about very soon. I'm still recreating my build thread from a previous forum platform so we're not quite at present day yet.
Just wait until you see the painted tank... :lol:
Hey Mike, I found an angled speedo drive in a box. It's from a Nighthawk but might work
mikemill
Veteran Member
I greatly appreciate the generosity Jim. I got a CL350 speedo on fleaBay and have my gauges finished at this point. I'm still working to get this build up to present-day as fast as possible!
mikemill
Veteran Member
BUILD UPDATE - as promised, I'm getting back to wrenching on the bike. And after my hiatus, I only set one thing on fire. I'm doing well!
So, I did some grinding (clearly) to cut off the useless battery strap and "exhaust tab" that a fabricator previously welded to my frame when I had him fab up the tail loop. We clearly had different visions for the electronics and...no...I'm not bitter at all.
Anyway, to make my battery box design come to fruition, I'll use the sides of the "battery strap" to bolt into the front of the box from the outside and a right angle to bolt into it from above. This will be much clearer from the images.
M.Unit goes in front, 240 cranking amp li-ion battery goes in middle, and ignition switch and solenoid go in back. Modern reg/rec bolted underneath. There will be two holes on either side of the frame's spine up front for wires to travel through. My Sparck Moto harness has one trunk for inputs and one trunk for outputs.
I think I'm pretty set on the battery box design, but one of my concerns is getting water inside when washing the bike and what not. Should I be worried about this with my current design?
So, I did some grinding (clearly) to cut off the useless battery strap and "exhaust tab" that a fabricator previously welded to my frame when I had him fab up the tail loop. We clearly had different visions for the electronics and...no...I'm not bitter at all.
Anyway, to make my battery box design come to fruition, I'll use the sides of the "battery strap" to bolt into the front of the box from the outside and a right angle to bolt into it from above. This will be much clearer from the images.
M.Unit goes in front, 240 cranking amp li-ion battery goes in middle, and ignition switch and solenoid go in back. Modern reg/rec bolted underneath. There will be two holes on either side of the frame's spine up front for wires to travel through. My Sparck Moto harness has one trunk for inputs and one trunk for outputs.
I think I'm pretty set on the battery box design, but one of my concerns is getting water inside when washing the bike and what not. Should I be worried about this with my current design?
mikemill
Veteran Member
As for sealing that hole just above the "angle for top bolts", I'm going to use this stuff. I think I will use it around the perimeter of the sidewalls to seal it to the frame rails, too.
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-4612502-Waterproof-Patch-Black/dp/B07HSKRYQW
If it's good enough for Mrs. Turner's bucket, it should be good enough for my bike's battery box, right?...Right?
For real though, it seems to do the job.
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-4612502-Waterproof-Patch-Black/dp/B07HSKRYQW
If it's good enough for Mrs. Turner's bucket, it should be good enough for my bike's battery box, right?...Right?
mikemill
Veteran Member
Also, here are the plans for the box (courtesy my dad) although I think it's pretty specific to the way my frame is set up so I'm not sure how useful it will be for anyone.
mikemill
Veteran Member
The blueprints are off to the fabricator! And with that, here's another update on the build.
Spent some time getting the clutch set up. I rebuilt the mechanism on the left side of the push rod and packed it with grease. Don't forget the #10 ball bearing! I hear a lot of guys do this.
Then I lubed the clutch cable by crossing both ends as pictured and dripping some 3-in-1 oil into both sides so it slides down to the center of the sheath and pumping the cable in and out to help with lubrication.
With cable and side cover installed, I adjusted the clutch mechanism. First, I loosened the cable adjuster at the handlebar and the side cover most of the way. Then I broke the adjuster lock nut on the clutch slave mechanism, turned the adjuster counter-clockwise until I felt pressure from the push-rod, then backed off a quarter turn. After that, I completed my major adjustment at the side cover with only fine-tuning at the handlebar. I tightened the cable adjuster until the lever had a fair bit of play before engaging the push rod.
Just want to double-check that the cable is installed correctly at the side cover. Are both of these nuts supposed to be on the top/outside of the side cover?
![url])](/forums/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BImgur%5D%28%5Burl%5Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FNiD3r4u.jpg%5B%2Furl%5D%29&hash=6edba776f6094fad3c130189a83651da)
Spent some time getting the clutch set up. I rebuilt the mechanism on the left side of the push rod and packed it with grease. Don't forget the #10 ball bearing! I hear a lot of guys do this.
Then I lubed the clutch cable by crossing both ends as pictured and dripping some 3-in-1 oil into both sides so it slides down to the center of the sheath and pumping the cable in and out to help with lubrication.
With cable and side cover installed, I adjusted the clutch mechanism. First, I loosened the cable adjuster at the handlebar and the side cover most of the way. Then I broke the adjuster lock nut on the clutch slave mechanism, turned the adjuster counter-clockwise until I felt pressure from the push-rod, then backed off a quarter turn. After that, I completed my major adjustment at the side cover with only fine-tuning at the handlebar. I tightened the cable adjuster until the lever had a fair bit of play before engaging the push rod.
Just want to double-check that the cable is installed correctly at the side cover. Are both of these nuts supposed to be on the top/outside of the side cover?
Yes on the nuts, bottom is the adjustment and top is the lock nut.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Next i restored my OEM mechanical gauges. There is a lot more back-and-forth to this on the old forum which shall not be named, but I'll post the summary version here.
The idea was to take them apart, lube the mechanisms, replace the faces with new vinyl reproduction stickers, and swap out the bulbs for new LED ones. I ran into some trouble when the speedometer needle was sticking for a while before spinning up (I was bench-testing with a bit of speedo cable in an electric drill). I used Tri-Flow lube on it to no avail and eventually used mineral spirits on it to loosen things up. It worked...too well. All friction was lost and the needle would plummet back down and bounce on the stopper. I didn't like that so I had to order another gauge from eBay and swap over some innards. I'm happy with the results overall.
The idea was to take them apart, lube the mechanisms, replace the faces with new vinyl reproduction stickers, and swap out the bulbs for new LED ones. I ran into some trouble when the speedometer needle was sticking for a while before spinning up (I was bench-testing with a bit of speedo cable in an electric drill). I used Tri-Flow lube on it to no avail and eventually used mineral spirits on it to loosen things up. It worked...too well. All friction was lost and the needle would plummet back down and bounce on the stopper. I didn't like that so I had to order another gauge from eBay and swap over some innards. I'm happy with the results overall.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Recently, I modified my stator cover to install my aftermarket three-phase stator from Sparck Moto (Sonrier on HT).
Because of the additional windings, three of the bolt tabs in the stator cover have to be removed. This is really a job for a drill press or other badass machinery, but I don't have access to such toys. I tried using a hole saw blade on a drill, which sorta worked but skittered around too much, putting a gouge in one of the tabs I needed to keep. After that, I resorted to drilling out the bolt holes with the biggest bit I had and then filing the rest away with raw manpower and a round file.
The instructions show the material being removed until flush with the ID of the stator cover, but this isn't necessary. You just have to get it back far enough that the stator can slide past. I probably would have started with the safer drill-bit-and-file method had I known this from the start.
With the tabs removed, it's just plug and play from there.
Got a new bullet and spade terminal on the neutral wire with heat shrink.
Then I used LDR’s method of scribing the stator. I was on the right track with sharpie and TBH my sharpie mark was just a half-mm off, but it’s much brighter with the orange paint and sealed under a few shots of clear.
I just made one mark though and didn’t mark the rotor with orange.
Because of the additional windings, three of the bolt tabs in the stator cover have to be removed. This is really a job for a drill press or other badass machinery, but I don't have access to such toys. I tried using a hole saw blade on a drill, which sorta worked but skittered around too much, putting a gouge in one of the tabs I needed to keep. After that, I resorted to drilling out the bolt holes with the biggest bit I had and then filing the rest away with raw manpower and a round file.
The instructions show the material being removed until flush with the ID of the stator cover, but this isn't necessary. You just have to get it back far enough that the stator can slide past. I probably would have started with the safer drill-bit-and-file method had I known this from the start.
With the tabs removed, it's just plug and play from there.
Got a new bullet and spade terminal on the neutral wire with heat shrink.
Then I used LDR’s method of scribing the stator. I was on the right track with sharpie and TBH my sharpie mark was just a half-mm off, but it’s much brighter with the orange paint and sealed under a few shots of clear.
I just made one mark though and didn’t mark the rotor with orange.
mikemill
Veteran Member
PROGRESS UPDATE: I finished up the left side of the motor the next day.
The neutral wire was added into the new sub harness with electrical tape. I used the self-vulcanizing tape that came with the kit to make a seal for the harness where it exits the rotor area, because I'm not well-equipped enough to make a cool JB weld mold like LDR. Although admittedly that sounds like the better way.
Sadly my box knife terminal remover was to flimsy to bend the locking tabs of the female spades in the plastic connector block at the end of the sub harness, so I ended up cutting my D-shaped rubber grommet that goes at the back of the drive sprocket cover in order to get it around the wire. Hopefully it holds.
If I should be concerned about that, let me know.
The neutral wire was added into the new sub harness with electrical tape. I used the self-vulcanizing tape that came with the kit to make a seal for the harness where it exits the rotor area, because I'm not well-equipped enough to make a cool JB weld mold like LDR. Although admittedly that sounds like the better way.
Sadly my box knife terminal remover was to flimsy to bend the locking tabs of the female spades in the plastic connector block at the end of the sub harness, so I ended up cutting my D-shaped rubber grommet that goes at the back of the drive sprocket cover in order to get it around the wire. Hopefully it holds.
If I should be concerned about that, let me know.
mikemill
Veteran Member
In other news, my battery box is done and it looks awesome! Haven’t seen it in person yet but from the pic, I think I’ll be quite satisfied. Can’t wait to pick it up this weekend.
Best part was the price...1 bottle of wine. Im sure the guy being my childhood best friend’s dad has nothing to do with it!
Best part was the price...1 bottle of wine. Im sure the guy being my childhood best friend’s dad has nothing to do with it!
mikemill
Veteran Member
OK GUYS, THAT IS IT FOR PORTING EVERYTHING OVER FROM THE OLD FORUM. ANYTHING YOU READ BEYOND THIS MESSAGE IS NEW STUFF. PLEASE RESPOND AS YOU WOULD NORMALLY!
Last edited:
Progress on all fronts, engine, bike and moving. Good deal.
mikemill
Veteran Member
I measured and drilled the battery box for components. Sorry, I don't have a detailed post for this, but here are some shots of it finished. The two large holes in the front with grommets are where the two main trunks of the harness will exit the battery box.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Got the LED headlight and bucket from those guys in Houston plus fork ears! It is going to look great! Can't wait to see it come together even more.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Most recently I wired my handlebars. This was difficult, not going to lie. I didn't have perfect wire colors, so I had to record which colors belong to which switch function, and I also connected some grounds in certain ways that requires me to update my diagram a bit. Additionally, the holes in my handlebar were positioned in such a way that I think there is some pressure on the wires, and the sheathing received a bit of scarring as I pulled it through due to the metal's edges.
I didn't have room for grommets up by the switches though, since I had so many wires to pull through. I used a bit of heat shrink around the soldered connection to each terminal on the switch bodies for protection against the metal edge of the hole in the bar, so I hope that is enough to make a lasting connection despite possible pressure from the handlebar.
You can see the scaring from the sharp part of the handlebar in the second photo. Probably no big deal. The wires shouldn't be moving at that junction.
After wiring, I also greased up the throttle tube and installed the bar end turn signals, pulling those wires through as well.
I didn't have room for grommets up by the switches though, since I had so many wires to pull through. I used a bit of heat shrink around the soldered connection to each terminal on the switch bodies for protection against the metal edge of the hole in the bar, so I hope that is enough to make a lasting connection despite possible pressure from the handlebar.
You can see the scaring from the sharp part of the handlebar in the second photo. Probably no big deal. The wires shouldn't be moving at that junction.
After wiring, I also greased up the throttle tube and installed the bar end turn signals, pulling those wires through as well.
FrisianWheel
Veteran Member
It's always a good idea to smoothen the sharp edges with a round rasp or even better with a dremel. It's easy and gives you peace of mind.
But to be honest I'm a little concerned about your drillings. The handle bar looks like it's made of aluminum and your two drillings look IMO like a potential weak spot. I would be concerned about a weak handle bar. Maybe others here should weight in because it's a safety issue!
But to be honest I'm a little concerned about your drillings. The handle bar looks like it's made of aluminum and your two drillings look IMO like a potential weak spot. I would be concerned about a weak handle bar. Maybe others here should weight in because it's a safety issue!
mikemill
Veteran Member
Thanks Frisian. I did smooth the edges as much as possible with a needle file. A dremel would have been a good next step though. Thanks for your concern about the handlebar strength as well. I'm curious to see what others have to say on this as well.
I think you'll be OK with the bars, the problem would occur with a crash or over longer term riding. You might make a cardboard template of the bars, a couple of different angles, to be able to re-assess the bars next year and the year after to see if they are bending at the holes. Looks like you've removed @20% of the bar material which will affect strength.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Hey fam,
It's been ages, but I'm finally getting back into the build and picking up where I left off with the wiring.
After moving across the country (MN to NC) for my wife's work, I've been mostly getting used to my new surroundings and new job over the months. Life just gets in the way sometimes. But i've been itching to get out into the garage, and I've got a pretty sweet new setup at that. Hoping y'all (I live in the south so I say that now) will start following this build again and help me along the way. A pic of the new digs below!
It's been ages, but I'm finally getting back into the build and picking up where I left off with the wiring.
After moving across the country (MN to NC) for my wife's work, I've been mostly getting used to my new surroundings and new job over the months. Life just gets in the way sometimes. But i've been itching to get out into the garage, and I've got a pretty sweet new setup at that. Hoping y'all (I live in the south so I say that now) will start following this build again and help me along the way. A pic of the new digs below!
I wondered what happened to you, good to see you back Mike. Moving to another state must be a total disruption of normal life, but now you're in a better (warmer) place and not too far north of my SC friend 12ozPBR too. Always good to get an upgrade to the work area. Hopefully you'll be back in the garage more often now and on VHT as well, sharing your newly-relocated garage time.
mikemill
Veteran Member
Thanks Tom. I feel like I'm pretty close with this build and I'm so excited to start getting into the garage more and wiring it up.
Right now I'm collecting my thoughts, re-orienting myself with the project, and re-familiarizing myself with my wiring diagram and various parts, etc. so that's where i'm at right now. Should be able to get some actual garage time in about a week or so.
On that note, one puzzle I had right around the time of my move is waterproofing electrical connections. My battery box is not completely air tight as I thought some airflow would be good to keep heat down. But when I decide to wash the bike, if I ride on a wet road, etc. I am sure some water would get into the battery box where my m-unit, solenoid, battery, ignition, are. How do I waterproof those connections? Liberal coating of dielectric grease?
Right now I'm collecting my thoughts, re-orienting myself with the project, and re-familiarizing myself with my wiring diagram and various parts, etc. so that's where i'm at right now. Should be able to get some actual garage time in about a week or so.
On that note, one puzzle I had right around the time of my move is waterproofing electrical connections. My battery box is not completely air tight as I thought some airflow would be good to keep heat down. But when I decide to wash the bike, if I ride on a wet road, etc. I am sure some water would get into the battery box where my m-unit, solenoid, battery, ignition, are. How do I waterproof those connections? Liberal coating of dielectric grease?
Dielectric grease will work to keep the connections water free. I would drill a drain hole at the lowest point of the box so when parked on the side stand it can drain easily.
Knoxes
Veteran Member
Hi neighbor!
mikemill
Veteran Member
Got my new dyna coils fitted and installed my Charlie's Place electronic ignition. Anyone have any good sources for how to route a custom wiring harness on a 350 and also how much slack to leave in the headlight bucket? I need to cut some extra length and am a bit nervous about cutting off too much.
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mikemill
Veteran Member
Hey Knoxes! Whereabouts are you? I'm right off of 40 and 501/15. There's a few beers in it for you if you wanna come help me wire up a CL350! haha