Coming along well. Better to get the practice on the smaller parts too before moving on to the star of the show, because the tank draws so much more attention. No pressure... 
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1971 CL450 that sat for 40 years.
- Thread starter Danager4792
- Start date
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Well just wanted to say that I have officially started painting on my first ever rookie paint job.
I got both side covers painted in silver metallic, then I waited 5-6 days for the enamel paint to officially dry/cure.
I wiped the paint with rubbing alcohol and a tack cloth, then went to town. The goal was a form of candy topaz orange, but I was completely ok with going a shade or two darker.
First coat.
The final fourth coat. I think the third coat was close to nailing the topaz orange color. It’s not perfect, also may be slightly uneven in some places, but I’m extremely happy. I think it will look better once it’s clear coated and the badge goes on.
I got both side covers painted in silver metallic, then I waited 5-6 days for the enamel paint to officially dry/cure.
I wiped the paint with rubbing alcohol and a tack cloth, then went to town. The goal was a form of candy topaz orange, but I was completely ok with going a shade or two darker.
First coat.
The final fourth coat. I think the third coat was close to nailing the topaz orange color. It’s not perfect, also may be slightly uneven in some places, but I’m extremely happy. I think it will look better once it’s clear coated and the badge goes on.
Nice work man, not just for your first paint job but really, overall. You took the time to practice and learn to do it right, and it shows. Yes, a good clear coat and a little rub afterward and it will look nice.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Nice job, Dan! That looks great.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Welcome back, Brody!
I actually started over and used different paint for the side cover. Wasn't a big deal, just scuff it with 600 grit then repaint. I wasn't happy with the DupliColor Metalcast. It resembled a copper color once it dried. Plus, it's extremely unforgiving when laying the candy layers.
I decided to use TropiCali Orange from the Ed Roth family. He passed away but his son continued the business. Seen here.
KANDY RATTLE BOMBTropi Cali
RBK312 Tropi Cali Kandy - 12 oz Can ( Shown Over Surfite Silver Basecoat) Tropi Cali Kandy is a transparent layer of paint that goes over a Basecoat/Flake to add depth and create a more vivid paint job. While this step is optional, this is where you can be the most creative, as there are many...
rothmetalflake.com
I am very happy with the new results. This candy is way easier to apply. and looks better. They are really big on adding flake, but I didn't want to do that. It only took two light coats. I was using up to 4-5 coats with the DupliColor Orange-Copper.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
That looks super smooth! Have you started on the tank also?
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Still have two more dents to bondo, then I will be priming and sanding. I have done four dents so far. Talk about tedious work, but very rewarding! Hopefully winter doesn't come sooner than expected.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
For those who have used 2k Spraymax Clearcoat before, about how many cans would I need for the tank, side covers, and headlight bucket? One or two?
Also, I assume it’s best to get high gloss, versus satin or matte.
Respirator will be ordered too
Also, I assume it’s best to get high gloss, versus satin or matte.
Respirator will be ordered too
12ozPBR
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2020
- Total Posts
- 938
- Total likes
- 719
Your DIY paint job is looking good! Credit to your diligence to the task as well as your entire project. Good work DanFor those who have used 2k Spraymax Clearcoat before, about how many cans would I need for the tank, side covers, and headlight bucket? One or two?
Also, I assume it’s best to get high gloss, versus satin or matte.
Respirator will be ordered too
I used the 2K spraymax clear for a 450 tank and side covers a few years ago. I would recommend you get 2 cans especially since you need to do a headlamp shell. Like your color coats you will do several coats with the clear. It’s better to have too much than not enough. I used my leftover clear to do a quick paint makeover on my mailbox
I used the satin clear and can say that it definitely will dull down a gloss paint job. Unless you want the look of a colored epoxy primer finish coat you should probably consider the gloss clear to get the most bang for your buck.
And yes, definitely cover your skin and eyes, wear a high quality organic vapor respirator, plus paint outdoors in the open air. The isocyanates in Spraymax are terrible for your health and nothing to play around with.
Get 2. Once you do the mix the clear is only good for 48 hours so do 1 can when you're ready to start.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Just a quick question about how heavy the 2k spraymax coats should be - any tips or tricks? I was thinking two light coats, and then one medium to heavy wet coat.
Avoid heavy if you can. Any drips/runs are wait a week to cure and sand.
Pay attention to temp and humidity. Particularly large pieces like the tank.
It’s pretty forgiving otherwise, but that humidity can be a killer.
Pay attention to temp and humidity. Particularly large pieces like the tank.
It’s pretty forgiving otherwise, but that humidity can be a killer.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Hello everyone, just wanted to give an update in regards to my hiatus. I halted the paint job due to the colder weather. Also, I started the process of purchasing my first home about a month ago!
Some of you may remember, but 90% of my work on the CL450 was done under a 10x10 backyard awning/pergola. The first year working on the bike I had no tin covering. Even after that was added, I still experienced leaks when it rained. There were nights where I would drop a 10mm washer in the leaves and it would take me 20 mins to find it. There also wasnt a back door at this house. I had to open a window then slide my tool boxes down a dog ramp that I built. Ah, the good ole days.
The new house came with a 9’2” x 22’11 shed/shop in the back. It has double doors and an A/C window unit. The previous owner was a fan of electrical outlets, as they appear every 3 feet on the walls. The inside of the main house is similar, we counted 57 outlets in total.
I still need to dispose of items that the previous owner left. After that I will move some shelves around to my liking. I am still speechless and looking forward to this new beginning with the bike.
I am not necessarily a fan of the wall of shelves in the corner. They are not “complete” shelves. Maybe those are the style to store gardening supplies?
Some of you may remember, but 90% of my work on the CL450 was done under a 10x10 backyard awning/pergola. The first year working on the bike I had no tin covering. Even after that was added, I still experienced leaks when it rained. There were nights where I would drop a 10mm washer in the leaves and it would take me 20 mins to find it. There also wasnt a back door at this house. I had to open a window then slide my tool boxes down a dog ramp that I built. Ah, the good ole days.
The new house came with a 9’2” x 22’11 shed/shop in the back. It has double doors and an A/C window unit. The previous owner was a fan of electrical outlets, as they appear every 3 feet on the walls. The inside of the main house is similar, we counted 57 outlets in total.
I still need to dispose of items that the previous owner left. After that I will move some shelves around to my liking. I am still speechless and looking forward to this new beginning with the bike.
I am not necessarily a fan of the wall of shelves in the corner. They are not “complete” shelves. Maybe those are the style to store gardening supplies?
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Great to see you get into your own place, more storage and a shop too. Now you can get a lift.... 
That’s a killer setup! One thing that works with shelving like that is to set them up to where you can slide bins in like this:
I wonder if that’s what they were set up for?
A shop with AC though… awesome find and congrats.
I wonder if that’s what they were set up for?
A shop with AC though… awesome find and congrats.
jensen
Veteran Member
You cannot have enough shelf area, but the total width of the usable space in the garage should be enough too. The wall opposite of the shelf should be empty, then you have sufficient space for a lift. And boxes to put stuff in on a shelf is the most efficient way for storing things, except larger items. Having adjustable sections, (vertical) in height, would increase efficiency tremendously. In my case, I also have different column width. Most people just buy some wood and start, as I was intending to do, but a search in the local marketplace showed that there were a lot of shelf systems for sale. Lot's of companies go from a paper administration to a digital registration, and after all "files" are digitized, the paper files are destroyed, leading to empty shelves. Eventually these shelves are sold locally. I paid around 150 euro for everything, 200m / 650ft shelf length (width is 0,3m / 1ft), including everything and more.
Categorizing is also easier, the last section is CB450 K0, the mid-section is CB450 K1 / K2 and the first section is CB72 / 77. I have 3 shelves like this, each shelf has the same set-up, in the front there are no shelves, but only a lift. Every large box is an engine, small boxes are other (used) parts. Fuel tanks, mudguards, side covers and other parts that are not handy to have in boxes, are put on the shelf. The height of every section is adjustable, so I set up the shelf height in sections after I decided where sits what.
and still not enough shelf room
Categorizing is also easier, the last section is CB450 K0, the mid-section is CB450 K1 / K2 and the first section is CB72 / 77. I have 3 shelves like this, each shelf has the same set-up, in the front there are no shelves, but only a lift. Every large box is an engine, small boxes are other (used) parts. Fuel tanks, mudguards, side covers and other parts that are not handy to have in boxes, are put on the shelf. The height of every section is adjustable, so I set up the shelf height in sections after I decided where sits what.
and still not enough shelf room
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Danager4792
Veteran Member
I was finally able to get settled into my new place, and also get the shop somewhat organized to my liking.
Today I was able to start back working on the CL450, particularly the paint job. My goal will be Candy Topaz Orange.
First, I painted the other side cover. Luckily my newly learned paint skills were still intact.
I was also able to finish sanding the last spot that I bondo’d on the tank. There are nine total. All areas are smooth to the touch. When I spray the tank with metal etch primer, I assume it will tell the story if I applied anything uneven. There are a few areas that I still need to lightly touch up with a dremel. Old paint that is lingering around in some nooks & crannies. Getting closer to the final product!
Today I was able to start back working on the CL450, particularly the paint job. My goal will be Candy Topaz Orange.
First, I painted the other side cover. Luckily my newly learned paint skills were still intact.
I was also able to finish sanding the last spot that I bondo’d on the tank. There are nine total. All areas are smooth to the touch. When I spray the tank with metal etch primer, I assume it will tell the story if I applied anything uneven. There are a few areas that I still need to lightly touch up with a dremel. Old paint that is lingering around in some nooks & crannies. Getting closer to the final product!
Before you do the primer you might shoot the Bondo areas with a light coat of paint, then sand the paint off. That will show any low spots.
I use Black for doing this since it stands out nicely.
I use Black for doing this since it stands out nicely.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
I've been meaning to ask you something.
Currently I have the gas fill opening plugged with a rubber stopper. Do I need to have the top part(lip) of the fill opening covered as well, before I start to paint'?
You do not want to paint the lip, in fact you should mask the lip and the top of the neck so there's 1/8" or more unpainted.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
Looks great Dan. Keep doing LDR's primer build and sand as many times as needed until low spots are gone.
If you need to do it 2 or more times use a different color each time, just alight fog coat works.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
First I was planning on doing a full layer of green metal etch primer (no sanding), and then a layer of white filler primer. That's when I will start sanding and re-applying the filler primer, with your black spray paint trick of course.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Made a lot of progress recently. Yesterday I was able to prep and paint the headlight bucket. It's a brand new aftermarket one that came powder coated black. After that, I took a dremel and a small flathead screwdriver to the tank to get rid of any lingering paint in tight places. I was sure to be extra careful.
Today I blew the tank with off with an air compressor, then wiped it down with 70% alcohol until the rags were clean. This took about 4-5 wipe downs. My first rag was completely black. I was then able to apply my first layer of metal etch primer!
I would like to play it off as if my bondo work was perfect.. but I am not gonna do that. The pictures don't show it, but I think only 3-4 spots came out completely hidden (9 total). The others have slight pinholes, and some uneveness. But it's really close for my first time applying it, and should make the rest of the job easier.
Today I blew the tank with off with an air compressor, then wiped it down with 70% alcohol until the rags were clean. This took about 4-5 wipe downs. My first rag was completely black. I was then able to apply my first layer of metal etch primer!
I would like to play it off as if my bondo work was perfect.. but I am not gonna do that. The pictures don't show it, but I think only 3-4 spots came out completely hidden (9 total). The others have slight pinholes, and some uneveness. But it's really close for my first time applying it, and should make the rest of the job easier.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Hello everyone, just wanted to give an update on the paint job.
This month I have put forth a grueling effort in regards to getting the tank primed/sanded correctly. I have counted a total of 21 dents, whether they be big or small.
The first three layers of filler primer were all sanded with 600 grit in between coats. I then decided to spray a guide coat of black to highlight any low spots. There were quite a few, so I opted to use some light spot putty(then sand) on those areas.
Tonight I sprayed on another coat of filler primer. Hopefully it will be the last but you never know. I plan on sanding up to 800 grit, then giving it a final inspection. Maybe the tank will see some silver metallic and candy orange soon. Once again, can’t thank the people @ VHT enough.
This month I have put forth a grueling effort in regards to getting the tank primed/sanded correctly. I have counted a total of 21 dents, whether they be big or small.
The first three layers of filler primer were all sanded with 600 grit in between coats. I then decided to spray a guide coat of black to highlight any low spots. There were quite a few, so I opted to use some light spot putty(then sand) on those areas.
Tonight I sprayed on another coat of filler primer. Hopefully it will be the last but you never know. I plan on sanding up to 800 grit, then giving it a final inspection. Maybe the tank will see some silver metallic and candy orange soon. Once again, can’t thank the people @ VHT enough.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Are we getting close to seeing some color on this tank?
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Haha, my apologies gentlemen!
I painted the tank silver around June 1st, right when Memphis was at the beginning stages of getting hot and humid. It was 75F and around 65% humidity in my shop when I attempted it. Unfortunately, I got some minor blushing on the sides and underneath the tank. I saw on Youtube where you can immediately fix blushing with gentle use of a heatgun as it will evaporate the moisture in the paint. Don't know how true that is. I decided to halt the candy orange paint job until the cooler fall months. I am sort of thankful, cause there's quite a noticeable dent that I missed. I looked the tank over one hundred times using water, different angles with a fleshlight, and never even noticed it!
Then, I decided to remove the rubber stopper from the fuel neck to look for any rust that had developed. I am certain that while I was rinsing and cleaning the surface for painting, water seeped in through some of the holes I had covered with tape.
When using Rust911 the first time around, I let it soak for about 4 days in 100F weather. Not a good idea. When I poured it out then refilled with gas, the fuel tank had a layer of black carbon build up on the inside. All I had to do was re-soak with Rust911 for two days, and it fixed that issue.
After that, I noticed that the little plastic filter screen on the reserve tube for the petcock got mangled real bad. It was an aftermarket one. I looked around and found a sealed OEM one on ebay for $64. The original ones came with a brass filter tube for the reserve side that should last a lifetime.
Since the fall season and cooler temperatures were so far away, I opted to go ahead and put the tank back on to fire up the bike. I know I was taking a risk since bare paint can get nicked easily and fuel can damage/stain it. That's exactly what happened haha. Screwing the gas cap back on, my screwdriver slipped and I made a slight gouge. No matter how careful I was pouring the gas with a rag, it always seemed to slip by and run down the paint. Oh well, this is what I expected. It will be sanded and corrected when I get ready to apply the candy orange paint. This tank had 20+ dents so I am fairly seasoned in that area of work now. The paint from https://rothmetalflake.com has been nothing short of phenomenal. Easy to spray, nice big fan, and blends very well.
After the bike idled correctly I took it for a spin. I noticed that it was fairly difficult to upshift from 1st to 2nd, it would always get hung up in neutral. The pizza cutter has been replaced and the clutch plates are still in spec. After some private conversations with ancientdad, we believe it was the clutch cable connection at the lever that was too loose. I tightened it up and it does feel better. I will probably have to loosen it just a hair. Then I saw a picture of Brody's bike and noticed the position of his gear shift lever, mine was angled too high. I lowered it one notch. Also, I had issues with a high idle after some test rides. Turns out it was the throttle cable being snagged/too tight. After looking at some pictures posted by boddy and Robman, I had my wiring harness routed incorrectly. It was interfering with the throttle cable. After some readjustments, it is working fine now.
Right now I am currently in the battle of getting the 14H carbs synced to their maximum potential. Things get a little bit complex when the cylinders have uneven compression. I believe they are 130psi versus 140psi. The bike is technically rideable and performs decent. I suppose I should relax and realize that not everything has to be perfect, even though I want it to be. Also, it's quite often that the plugs get fouled up. I believe I was using the choke for too long in the starting process. There is quite a bit of carbon build-up in the engine.
Was not my intention to leave everyone in the dark with this build, I'll be posting more frequently now that I am all caught up.
Final thoughts: Get it running good then ride the crap out of it. it's sick of idling in my shop. It will eventually need a top end job, so take it for what it is.
The dent that somehow slipped past my eyes
stl360+450
Veteran Member
Most people wouldn't even realize you weren't finished painting it! Looks pretty good like that, but the finished product will be really sweet.
You know that it is okay to work through concerns and issues via posts (in addition to PMs), right? =) PMs only get one read, posts get many. The whole thing with forums is that not every post contains exactly the right information, but that members refine ideas until solutions are found. Sometimes there may be only one or two people that have run into a particular situation before and getting their eyes on things can be a difference maker. Plus, the lurkers who count on finding useful info on forums never see solutions that were shared via PMs!
Have you considered increasing the valve clearances on the low compression side just a smidge to see if you can get the compression numbers a little closer? The difference isn't huge now, but you might be able to get them closer.
You know that it is okay to work through concerns and issues via posts (in addition to PMs), right? =) PMs only get one read, posts get many. The whole thing with forums is that not every post contains exactly the right information, but that members refine ideas until solutions are found. Sometimes there may be only one or two people that have run into a particular situation before and getting their eyes on things can be a difference maker. Plus, the lurkers who count on finding useful info on forums never see solutions that were shared via PMs!
Have you considered increasing the valve clearances on the low compression side just a smidge to see if you can get the compression numbers a little closer? The difference isn't huge now, but you might be able to get them closer.
ballbearian
Veteran Member
The amount of skill and experience you've gained is impressive. I'd leave the dent and tell everyone it's inevitable when you carry around a heavy package in front.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Thanks-a-million. Definitely blood sweat and tears in this paint job thus far. Can’t help but contribute it to this forum and the quality of paint from Roth metal flake. It truly is user friendly, and their candy colors seem to be a pretty close match for these old Honda’s.
Totally agree with you. I was usually in my shop late from 10pm to midnight when all of the daily life chores were done. I’d come inside, plan on updating this post, then not get around to it. I got so far behind with updates that I kept putting it off. This is the best community I’ve ever been apart of and it’s time that I step back in the circle again. Hopefully this summary fills in some of those gaps. I am thankful that you commented on the post.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
I actually have not considered that option yet. I am hoping/praying that once the bike is continuously ridden, specifically open throttle on a highway, that the top end breaks loose of any deposits/carbon and the compression increases.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
I suppose the compression numbers can change after the bike runs more, but excess carbon buildup usually causes higher compression, so I hope your low-ish compression numbers are not indicative of that.
It's definitely worth running the bike more at the 130–140 psi range you're in. Then, once you've had the opportunity to take the bike up to higher speeds (50+ mph) you'll be able to determine when/if/how you want to address the compression.
In any case, I'm hoping the humidity improves soon so you can finish your paint!
RobMan
Veteran Member
Glad to see the updates and that you have been making progress. I was wondering the other day why you hadn't made any updates and glad to see the progress. I kinda agree with @ballbearian on the dent on top of the tank but understand if you have made this effort that it would bug you to leave it. Looks like a suction cup or hot glue puller would take it out possibly without messing up the paint. Glad anything I have posted has helped with your build even if it's how not to do it. To me the rascal looks darn good now and will look awesome when you're done!
To me the rascal looks darn good now and will look awesome when you're done!
In Dan's defense, he really hasn't asked me that many things privately, mostly carb adjustment scenarios and proper approach. along with a brief discussion about harness and cable routing.
Pretty sure he's setting them at .002" which is .0008" wider than factory spec as it is, so once he gets it out on the road a bit it should (hopefully) improve some.
Looking really good, nice work. I had the same issue with humidity when painting my tank - you're right to wait as you don't want to have the paint cloud over and have to start over. Looking forward to seeing the final paint job.
stl360+450
Veteran Member
How big is your shop space? Maybe you could run a dehumidifier or portable A/C unit to create appropriate conditions for painting in the shop?
My garage is too poorly insulated, otherwise I would try it myself.
My garage is too poorly insulated, otherwise I would try it myself.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
I actually have both. I didn't really know how effective a dehumidifier would be, or how long to leave it running in the shop before I paint. Also, I didn't want paint being suctioned through the vent on it, maybe I could tape on some sort of filter. I have a window unit in there as well that does get pretty cold.
RobMan
Veteran Member
The window unit should be acting as a dehumidifier and would probably be all you would need if it is cooling the space well. Just make sure it drains outside and isn't plugged up.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
Tonight I took the chance to get my carbs dialed in the best that I could. They've always been close.. but you could tell that they were slightly out of sync.
I also learned how to correctly use the choke when starting the bike - I believe this is why I was ending up with fouled plugs now and then. I was using the choke for too long.
After getting the engine warm enough at idle, it was a game of 1/8th to 1/16th turns at each carb until the tach needle was at a very still 1100rpm. Something felt different this time, like maybe I had nailed it. I took the bike for a 20min stroll around the neighborhood.
The upshifts from 1st to 2nd still had a hiccup every now and then where I would end up in neutral. Also sometimes when in 2nd, the bike would shift back to neutral by itself. I noticed that the quicker I upshifted from 1st to 2nd, it would be more successful. I still think I need to find the magic tightness or looseness of the clutch cable at the lever. The "pizza cutter" has been replaced, and the clutch plates are still in spec.
Upon parking the bike, I did notice a slight drip of oil from the left crank case. I barely tightened a few screws around where it was leaking, hopefully that fixed it. It's a brand new gasket.
Let me know what you think of the idle in this video.. This was right after the test ride. Engine was nice and hot. I realized I probably shouldn't rev the bike while on the kickstand, seeing that the oil would be uneven in the top end.
I also learned how to correctly use the choke when starting the bike - I believe this is why I was ending up with fouled plugs now and then. I was using the choke for too long.
After getting the engine warm enough at idle, it was a game of 1/8th to 1/16th turns at each carb until the tach needle was at a very still 1100rpm. Something felt different this time, like maybe I had nailed it. I took the bike for a 20min stroll around the neighborhood.
The upshifts from 1st to 2nd still had a hiccup every now and then where I would end up in neutral. Also sometimes when in 2nd, the bike would shift back to neutral by itself. I noticed that the quicker I upshifted from 1st to 2nd, it would be more successful. I still think I need to find the magic tightness or looseness of the clutch cable at the lever. The "pizza cutter" has been replaced, and the clutch plates are still in spec.
Upon parking the bike, I did notice a slight drip of oil from the left crank case. I barely tightened a few screws around where it was leaking, hopefully that fixed it. It's a brand new gasket.
Let me know what you think of the idle in this video.. This was right after the test ride. Engine was nice and hot. I realized I probably shouldn't rev the bike while on the kickstand, seeing that the oil would be uneven in the top end.
RobMan
Veteran Member
Just the bit I heard sounds really good and gives me something to shoot for.
Actually, once the oil goes through the pump and is pushed to the top end of the engine, the flow of oil to the cams and followers is consistent as long as the pump is still submerged in oil in the bottom end - the oil flow doesn't vary according to the lean angle of the bike. The concern for the lean angle of the sidestand, with the bike leaning away from the pump, is that the oil level in the right crankcase cover area might drop low enough to affect having a continuous supply to keep the pump pushing oil to all parts of the engine constantly. Has no effect on the consistency of top end oiling as long as there is a quantity of oil available for the pump to pick up and distribute.
And BTW, the carbs sound damn close. It still seems like one cylinder is hitting just slightly harder as it returns to idle, but it's consistent in behavior which is what you want.
Those side covers look great! I'm thinking of a future 1970 build and really like what you did with that color, just the right amount of sparkle and not too much flake.
I may have to consider it along with thoughts of candy red.
Have you decided to paint the black "bat wing" on the tank, go plain or some other paint scheme?
PS
I've read your entire thread and must congratulate you on your progress and finished work. Good job!
I may have to consider it along with thoughts of candy red.
Have you decided to paint the black "bat wing" on the tank, go plain or some other paint scheme?
PS
I've read your entire thread and must congratulate you on your progress and finished work. Good job!
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Danager4792
Veteran Member
Thank you first and foremost for the kind words.
I plan on using this stencil/sticker to paint the black "batwing".
There was a guy on a FB group who took his 71 CL450 tank to his friends sign/decal shop. His friend "scanned" the tank and printed one of these templates. The info was saved to his computer. so they mailed me one. I'm considering taking mine to a nearby sign shop before I use it to see if they can make me a copy. I'd like to always have an original one on stand by.
Danager4792
Veteran Member
If you go for Candy Red on the CL450K3 I wouldn't blame you. Roth Metal Flake makes a "cherrie pie" color that's gorgeous.
KANDY RATTLE BOMBCherrie Pie
RBK304 Cherrie Pie Kandy - 12 oz Can ( Shown Over Surfite Silver Basecoat) Cherrie Pie Kandy is a transparent layer of paint that goes over a Basecoat/Flake to add depth and create a more vivid paint job. While this step is optional, this is where you can be the most creative, as there are many...
rothmetalflake.com