Much better
That's why I wear 2 pairs of reading glasses on my nose for this kind of stuff.
If I don't see the difference I use a straight edge on the plate and shine a light from behind to reveal the taper, some are really subtle.
Yes, the right handlebar switch assembly has to be opened to remove the old cable and install the new one. There are 3 points of inner cable slack adjustments, the obvious ones are at each carb where the cables attach to the little brackets. You use those to sync the carbs to both open at the same time. The cable adjuster at the elbow coming out of the right switch assembly is the main slack adjustment, you want that one screwed in all the way (most slack) until you get the carbs synced at the cable adjusters on each one. The 3rd and least obvious of the 3 adjustment spots isn't really intended to be for an adjustment, but it can be used if you still have some slack in the typical aftermarket cable. That 'adjustment' is based on how far into the lower half of the right switch assembly you screw the cable elbow. You want to leave yourself enough threads exposed on the threaded elbow for the lock nut, but if you have excess slack you can always take the screws out of the right switch and unscrew the elbow a turn or two to reduce slack as well.
Roger that.. Also my right switch box isn’t up to par as far as the controls go. The killswitch is extremely sensitive. And the headlight switch is very stiff feeling. I didn’t know if there would be a way to clean the insides, or get it working smoother.
www.vintagehondatwins.com
Instead of sanding everything try putting vertical lines on the inside of the cap where the piston slides using a Sharpie. Put an index marking to know where the piston and cap are positioned so you can repeat the test.
Pretty cool. Nice job, that's a keeper.
It's one reason I don't care for allen heads, you can put a lot more on them than the thread size can handle in many cases. While you may have taken different length bolts out of the cover, in truth there's only one bolt (exhaust valve cover, upper left bolt) that is slightly longer and only because the points wire guide tab is on it. I've gotten away with using slightly longer bolts in heads where the threads were weak in some valve cover bolt holes. Take a small diameter rod, like a coat hanger, and check the thread depth with it, then compare that length to the bolt length you take out of that hole. You can usually go a few threads longer and if so, and you carefully tighten it with a bolt just a bit longer, it should work. They don't typically come loose except for a little bit of gasket crush when new.
If this is your latest frustration, it's about 2/10. A lot worse things could be happening...
I wouldn't bother, just use air pressure to blow loose pieces out of the hole if there are any. 'Chasing' threads in a weak bolt hole can sometimes remove material unnecessarily and weaken what is left. I'm assuming some threads came out on the bolt when you removed it. You just want to reach the better threads below the length of the bolt that was in it.
No, that steering stem was used when some bikes still came with steering dampers and that is a mount hole for one (or possibly for Police equipment) but you and I won't use it.
I'm concerned about the left not heating as fast. I would suspect an ignition gremlin if the carb idle circuit is working perfect. I would use a strobe timing light to see if both sides are firing at proper, even and consistent advance. Also try another set of plugs (there are badish plugs out there) and the caps too, try switching them and trimming a 1/4" off the plug wires to get good contact for the cap screws.
Strobes are fairly cheap on amazon, are easy to use but do make a mess because you have to run the bike with the stator cover off and oil sprays out some.
I will definitely look to order a strobe light off of Amazon! I am open to recommendations.
I still use my old Craftsman from the 70's. They are all pretty similar and used to run around $40 on amazon. Expensive ones are not needed, just maybe more durable.
Manual (or fixed) is fine for bikes because it's easy to see the whole rotor. Cars, etc. are a pain because you sometimes have to look through a tiny window in a cover to set it, or there is only one mark so you have to preset the advance on the light to see the mark at a given rpm. No advantage on a bike.
I also bought one of those but mainly for the wires, grommet and felt. I did a dry fit into the points base and the fit was very sloppy. You may have issues getting the timing correct on both cylinders. Also there is a crusty coating on the point surfaces that will need to be cleaned if you decide to use the points.
While this is not the perfect video, it is an example of how to do it by a young man who joined VHT over a year ago and basically learned from scratch right here at VHT. He'd never touched a timing light and did not own one until he started learning how to take care of his 360. BTW, the 350, 360 and DOHC 450 ignition timing all work the same way.
Uh yeah, that’s an understatement. It did make me laugh though. “Oooh, damn! That’s hot!”
If your advancer is working properly and your static timing is correct, then it can often be as simple as checking the full advance marks and you're done. But... your bike has been a bit cranky with a few things so I'd guess this may well be more of an effort than that. No matter, it needs to be done and once you verify the timing is correct on both sides then the carbs should be easier to dial in. Of course, that also implies that the carbs are fully clean, which you've yet to completely verify. I know this is probably frustrating to you, but this is a fairly typical example of what happens when one of these bikes gets badly neglected over a long time and needs a ton of catch-up maintenance.
The holes on the replacement emulsion tube have to be exactly the same position and size as the originals
I have seen Jim say this twice recently but have been led to believe by numerous posts over the last decade that dried up felts on the throttle shafts can contribute to high idle issues on original carbs. I have certainly pulled dried up, crumbly felts from some old carbs. So is this really not an issue and is instead a long perpetuated myth?
