71 CD175 kickstart shaft replacement.

Scotthonda

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Hi guys, just got myself a nice little cd175 to restore the only problem is it needs a replacement kickstart shaft. The original one is well worn and someone has drilled and pinned it so it’s going to be a right job to get off. Is there any other models that might fit.
ATB
peter
 
Scotthonda said:
Hi guys, just got myself a nice little cd175 to restore the only problem is it needs a replacement kickstart shaft. The original one is well worn and someone has drilled and pinned it so it’s going to be a right job to get off. Is there any other models that might fit.
ATB
peter
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Peter, did you go to CMS or Partzilla and look up the part number of the shaft to compare to the other 175 kickstart shaft part numbers? That will tell you easily
 
ancientdad said:
Peter, did you go to CMS or Partzilla and look up the part number of the shaft to compare to the other 175 kickstart shaft part numbers? That will tell you easily
Click to expand...

Thanks ancientdad, it did and found a Honda ca175 has the same shaft. I was also quite lucky and bought one from the US for £116 including postage, not to bad I think.
ATB
peter
 
AFAIK, ALL the vertical engine 175 twins used the same kick-shaft (Part# 28250-235-000)........
 
Last edited:
66Sprint said:
AFAIK, ALL the vertical engine 175 twins used the same kick-shaft (Part# 28250-235-000)........
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Thanks for the information 66sprint, yes most of the 175 twins use the same shaft. My next question is can I split the crank cases without removing the top end of the engine. Any information would be most helpful.
ATB
peter
 
Scotthonda said:
Thanks for the information 66sprint, yes most of the 175 twins use the same shaft. My next question is can I split the crank cases without removing the top end of the engine. Any information would be most helpful.
ATB
peter
Click to expand...

The answer to that is yes, only the outer covers and the clutch/oil pump and shift shaft need to be removed to take the lower case off the engine, but don't forget the one crankcase bolt hidden under the drain plug
 
ancientdad said:
The answer to that is yes, only the outer covers and the clutch/oil pump and shift shaft need to be removed to take the lower case off the engine, but don't forget the one crankcase bolt hidden under the drain
plug
Click to expand...

why do you have to remove the gear change shaft to split the crank cases?
 
Scotthonda said:
why do you have to remove the gear change shaft to split the crank cases?
Click to expand...

Because it will hook on the shift drum in the upper case (the lever end is spring-loaded) as you try to life off the lower case while the engine is upside-down, it's much simpler to just slide the shift shaft out first. You'll have it all apart on the right side of the engine anyway, so simply slide the shaft out and make life easier for yourself.
 
ancientdad said:
Because it will hook on the shift drum in the upper case (the lever end is spring-loaded) as you try to life off the lower case while the engine is upside-down, it's much simpler to just slide the shift shaft out first. You'll have it all apart on the right side of the engine anyway, so simply slide the shaft out and make life easier for yourself.
Click to expand...


that makes sense, never done this sort of thing before so should be interesting. The previous owner had been complaining about bad starting so I thought I would have a look. Firstly no earth lead from battery to engine,and positive lead from fuse side just fell apart. You won’t believe what type of battery is on the bike, a 6v alarm battery??
 
Scotthonda said:
You won’t believe what type of battery is on the bike, a 6v alarm battery??
Click to expand...

Few things previous owners have done really surprise me at this point, so a sealed alarm battery is right there along with all the other bodges we see - like the pin in your kickstart shaft.
 
ancientdad said:
Few things previous owners have done really surprise me at this point, so a sealed alarm battery is right there along with all the other bodges we see - like the pin in your kickstart shaft.
Click to expand...

it’s all part of the fun though isn’t it lol.
 
Looks like I will need a replacement kickstart lever as well, is there any other model lever that will fit the cd175 ones are like hens teeth lol.
ATB
peter
 
Any of the smaller twins will have the same shaft size and splines, the only concern is one that will clear your exhaust pipes
 
Off hand would you know what size shaft the cd175 is, I think it might be 13mm but not sure.
ATB
peter
 
I do not know the diameter. Richard has replaced a couple of kickstart levers on his and knows which others fit, I'm sure he'll weigh in. A model that articulates at the bottom is best so you don't have a long arm extending outward from the bottom that can catch pant legs and be otherwise bothersome. Models from the CB100 up to the CB200 use the same size shaft IIRC
 
ancientdad said:
I do not know the diameter. Richard has replaced a couple of kickstart levers on his and knows which others fit, I'm sure he'll weigh in. A model that articulates at the bottom is best so you don't have a long arm extending outward from the bottom that can catch pant legs and be otherwise bothersome. Models from the CB100 up to the CB200 use the same size shaft IIRC
Click to expand...

There seems to be a lot of the cb100/125 kickstart levers about,so that would be an obvious choice if they are the same size shaft.
 
Scotthonda said:
which Richard are we talking about? Would it be ok to pm him?.
ATB
peter
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Sorry - it's Richard Pitman, and while it's always okay to PM any other member, we encourage open discussions so that one member alone is not burdened with being the sole source of information for another. Open posting in someone's thread puts the questions and answers out in the community area for all to read and learn from, as well as for any future searches by new members. I mentioned it in the way I did because Richard is on the forum often and is one of the members who helps out many other 175 owners with his long-standing experience with the 175 and 200.
 
And he's here !

Pitbike kick start levers fit, I've used one from OOracing here in the UK.

Something like this, need to check shaft size , ?? 14mm

OORacing - performance monkey bike, pit bike, madass, zoomer, dirt bike components

Fitted to my CL175 ( a while ago )

meLk1O5.jpg
 
Thanks for the information regarding the kickstart lever. Will this still work on the CD175 with twin exhaust silencers. The shaft on my CD175 needs replacing as all the splines have worn of the same as the lever. I can’t measure too se what the outside diameter of the splines should be, but it looks like ether 13/14 mm ?. Do you know of any other levers that would fit.
ATB
peter
 
That folding kick start works fine with the standard twin silencers, I just couldn't find a decent photo when I posted that pic of my CL175. Pretty sure it is 14mm.

Better picture.

ETjnRIM.jpg
 
Richard Pitman said:
That folding kick start works fine with the standard twin silencers, I just couldn't find a decent photo when I posted that pic of my CL175. Pretty sure it is 14mm.

Better picture.

ETjnRIM.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks Richard, it looks really good on your cb/cl 175. I have ordered a replacement shaft from America, and yes it could possibly be a 14mm spline.
ATB
peter
 
Richard Pitman said:
That folding kick start works fine with the standard twin silencers, I just couldn't find a decent photo when I posted that pic of my CL175. Pretty sure it is 14mm.

Better picture.
Click to expand...

It looks like your limited by the oil dipstick as to where you can locate the lever. When the lever is unfolded how far out does it stick?.
ATB
peter
 
Scotthonda said:
When the lever is unfolded how far out does it stick?.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing the "95mm offset" applies to the question you've asked

Kick start. 14mm. 95mm off set
Off set worked out from end of kick start shaft to inside part of foot lever
 
You are right about the oil filler / dipstick casing, lever has to be fitted so that it doesn't foul against this when fully returned, but it does sit nicely bearing that in mind.

Extended, it clears the pipes comfortably.

y3aT2sl.jpg
 
Richard Pitman said:
You are right about the oil filler / dipstick casing, lever has to be fitted so that it doesn't foul against this when fully returned, but it does sit nicely bearing that in mind.

Extended, it clears the pipes comfortably.

y3aT2sl.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you Richard that’s really helpful. I would have preferred something more original,and that didn’t stick out as far. But saying that the important thing is that it works lol.
ATB
peter
 
Have you ever had one of those days when nothing goes right?. I just have got the cd175 engine out of the frame no problem, but then went to remove the centrifugal oil filter only to find that some bright spark had broken a stud extractor and left it in that little m6 screw!!. How on earth do you remove a carbide extractor from such a tight space?.
 
Well that's a nasty turn. Might be time to cut that oil filter cup off the crankshaft and start work on removing the extractor, maybe you'll get lucky and it won't be bound in there too tightly. A used oil filter cup should be out there somewhere, maybe on eBay
 
ancientdad said:
Well that's a nasty turn. Might be time to cut that oil filter cup off the crankshaft and start work on removing the extractor, maybe you'll get lucky and it won't be bound in there too tightly. A used oil filter cup should be out there somewhere, maybe on eBay
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That was the first thing I did Ancientdad, I found a good second hand one on EBay for £29 posted. Should I split the oil cup level with the screw so I can get at it easily?.
ATB
peter
 
I'd cut it back as far as I could to make thing as easy for you as possible. I had a similar situation on the crankshaft of my 450 drag bike project except it was a broken bolt that retained the cap on the oil filter, and I did everything I could to avoid cutting off the cup because the 4 speed engines use a different version and they're more rare. Ended up using a hole saw to cut into it so I could remove the nut on the crank, then get all of it off to work on the broken bolt.
 
ancientdad said:
I'd cut it back as far as I could to make thing as easy for you as possible. I had a similar situation on the crankshaft of my 450 drag bike project except it was a broken bolt that retained the cap on the oil filter, and I did everything I could to avoid cutting off the cup because the 4 speed engines use a different version and they're more rare. Ended up using a hole saw to cut into it so I could remove the nut on the crank, then get all of it off to work on the broken bolt.
Click to expand...

Will I need to make a special tool to remove the nut on the end of the crankshaft?
 
Hi all, just an update on the oil filter cup removal. I decided to cut the cup in-line with the damaged screw, and when prizing the cup apart that dam screw came loose and I was able to remove it quit easily. Now don’t get me wrong I was quite happy that it came out easily, but what’s going on here lol. I have also ordered the special tool to remove that locknut. I will keep you posted on what happens next lol.
ATB
peter
 
Glad you got lucky on that one, it happens once in a while with broken screws and extractors and we have to be thankful for those :)
 
I've got a spare oil filter cup and cap if you need it, FOC.

Apologies for late reply, just back from a week in the West Country ...
 
Richard Pitman said:
I've got a spare oil filter cup and cap if you need it, FOC.

Apologies for late reply, just back from a week in the West Country ...
Click to expand...
Hi Richard, thanks for the very generous offer, but unfortunately I have just bought one from EBay for £25.
ATB
peter
 
Just a further update, I have split the crank cases and fitted the replacement kick start shaft. Next I will clean out the lower crank case and then re join them. I found that replacing the shaft wasn’t as bad as I thought lol.
ATB
peter
 
ancientdad said:
Words, words, words... but no pictures :sad:

Glad things are coming along well though.
Click to expand...

Very sorry AD, but at the moment I don’t have anything that I can transfer pictures with. As soon as I can I will try and add some pictures later.
ATB
peter
 
I have managed to re join the crank cases and torque all 18 bolts down to 9Nm for m6 bolts and 27Nm for the m8 bolts.
I had taken several pictures on my mobile phone so that I could transfer them to my I pad, but guess what my phone won’t connect to my iPad. I am 65 years old and not to good with these modern gadgets lol. I am going to have a few days off from my bike as my old back is playing up.
ATB
peter
 
I have started to replace the clutch on the CD175, it’s the 5 plate type. The friction plates are well within the specs at 3.08 mm, but the spring are only 28.6 mm free length. The Haynes manual says 35-34 mm but not sure if this is correct.
Dose any body know the correct measurements. I have seen new heavy duty ones quoted as being only 27 mm?.
ATB
Peter
 
Best info I have, CB-CL-SL 175 FSM, says 35.5mm as standard, 34.2mm is replacement. The FSM doesn't cover the CD since it wasn't a US model but part number cross reference says the same springs are used for most of the 175 models.
 
LongDistanceRider said:
Best info I have, CB-CL-SL 175 FSM, says 35.5mm as standard, 34.2mm is replacement. The FSM doesn't cover the CD since it wasn't a US model but part number cross reference says the same springs are used for most of the 175 models.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, it just same strange that even at 28.6 mm the clutch still worked fine, and the 34mm spec seams a huge difference between the 28mm that I have.
ATB
peter
 
Springs are peculiar things. For example, if you cut down a fork spring to shorten it, it actually makes the spring stiffer, which ( to me, at least ) is counter intuitive.

Might just be that the shorter clutch springs are just as 'strong' as the longer ones ?
 
I agree with the thought, and since looking at the new EBC clutch springs they definitely have a large cross section spring so could be shorter but still be stiffer. The thing that really gets me is the lack of information available from sellers regarding the spring length and thickness. If this information was more readily available the choice of replacement spring would be a lot easier. I think on this occasion I will just reuse the springs as the clutch was working ok, but if anyone thinks differently please let me know.
ATB
petr
 
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