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Storage Tips - Winterizing

film495

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2020
Total Posts
515
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Location
NH, USA
I don't have any I'm looking for some. What do poeple do to winterize?

Also, looking for a battery tender, if anyone has a reasonably priced one that has worked for bikes to recomend?
 
I give all my equipment:

  1. A good cleaning and oil change to start,
  2. Do any needed repairs
  3. Fill with ethanol free gas, treated gas or drain
  4. Take battery out to keep from freezing
  5. Cover and protect (I hate seeing stuff sit out in the elements)
 
Pretty much the same as the last poster:
This is what I do.
All of what you would consider your Startup Maintenance for the Spring NOW.
Change the Oil.
Adjust the Clutch
Lube all your Cables
Drain the Carb Float Bowls.
Adjust the Cam Chain / Valves
Adjust the Main Drive Chain
Polish all the Paint & Chrome.
That way when you get a nice warm spring day you can just pull off the cover and go for a ride.
 
If using Ethanol Free VP Vintage fuel (the good stuff) does one really need to use the fuel stabilizer? And I don't know if this matters or not but the bike has been in a warm shop until last week. I rode it the other day. Just now putting the bike down now for the winter. In all reality I am calling winter ~8weeks. I would assume there will be warm enough days in March to get going again where I am.

Thanks
 
msanford said:
If using Ethanol Free VP Vintage fuel (the good stuff) does one really need to use the fuel stabilizer? And I don't know if this matters or not but the bike has been in a warm shop until last week. I rode it the other day. Just now putting the bike down now for the winter. In all reality I am calling winter ~8weeks. I would assume there will be warm enough days in March to get going again where I am.

Thanks
Click to expand...

It might not be necessary in your case, I don't have to go that far in Florida but treating the fuel with a little additive never causes any trouble either. I like Stabil and Seafoam, and I've also used a little Lucas stabilizer.
 
I always change my oil and filter before storing as well. You want the fresh oil to protect the internals while sitting. After changing the oil, run it for a short time (30 sec) just to circulate it, then don't start it again until you are ready to ride it. Starting an engine to "warm it up" is a terrible idea. You are just contaminating the fresh oil with gas, moisture, and acids.

I always use ethanol-free gas, and add stabilizer and 1 oz per gal of 2-stroke oil - even in 4-strokes. Fill the tank to the top. The 2-stroke oil isn't going to be an issue, and I feel it helps prevent rust in a steel tank. Drain the floatbowls if you can.

The battery gets charged at 1A for a few hours, occasionally. I don't use a Tender.

Adjust and lube your chain. I also bump my tires up to about 40 psi during storage. They will drop with the cold, and you don't want the sidewalls to buckle and crack from low pressure. Set them to the proper pressure before riding.
 
ancientdad said:
. . . I like Stabil and Seafoam, and I've also used a little Lucas stabilizer.
Click to expand...

I use the real stuff!:biggrin:

FDSCbyw.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Gosh, this bike really did not run that much this year except for in the shop which it just got out of last week (and thankfully all its issues now seemed resolved with new carbs, new coils, new R&R).

I got in a little ride the other day being the least of the miserable days here in January just to make sure everything worked. I was thinking I would be ok not doing an oil change with how little the bike ran. Last oil change was ~May. I doubt weather will be good enough to get out again and up to speed for a proper warm-up to do an oil change. Or do you think it is reasonable to do an oil change cold?
 
msanford said:
Thanks. Are you sure you got enough? ;)
Click to expand...

:lol::lol: Err, I do have a few bikes, but you're right, I did go a bit overboard after getting a good 'bulk purchase' price from my local dealer. Problem now though, I think I'll need a product to stabilise the stabiliser! (y)
 
Loosen the valve adjustment on both cylinders, then you can turn the engine to a spot where all four valves are closed. That keeps moisture from entering the cylinder and gives the valve springs a bit of a rest. Leave yourself a note on the handlebars to remind you to set the valves before you start it (good time to squirt a little oil in on the rockers for that first startup).
 
jkv45 said:
I always use ethanol-free gas, and add stabilizer and 1 oz per gal of 2-stroke oil - even in 4-strokes. Fill the tank to the top. The 2-stroke oil isn't going to be an issue, and I feel it helps prevent rust in a steel tank. Drain the floatbowls if you can.
Click to expand...

Hold on, you put oil in the gas tank? Am I reading that right?
 
ancientdad said:
That's what he means, and it can't hurt. Back in the '60s Bardahl sold "upper lube" that you put in the gas tank. Looks like they still do.

https://www.bardahl.nl/en/product/2400-top-oil-en/
Click to expand...

Are the majority of people winterizing the bikes doing this? Bardahl's product says for E10.

Btw - with my Petcock definitively bad and leaking, I removed the fuel lines coming off the petcock and put one 5.5mm fuel line going from one petcock nipple to the other in order to close it off like Ancient Dad suggested earlier or on another string. I filled my tank with VP Vintage and put 1 oz of Star Tron which I had handy as the stabilizer. Now I could get to my original intent and opened the screws at the bottom of the carbs to drain. However, with the above I left the fuel lines which are not attached to the petcock just daggling there and open to air. My question here . . . Is that okay these fuel lines leading to the carbs are left open to air?
 
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