1978 CB400T1 Hawk I Tune-up and Front Fork Rebuild

[Maraakate]

Got a call yesterday from a younger fellow who wanted me to go over his 78 CB400T1 and basically do the standard tune-up, replace what needs replaced, and rebuild the front forks because the right side is leaking.

It's drivable and he did drive it over to my house and followed his girlfriend in her car. Very nice shape. I really like the headlight fairing, which I believe may be a Hondaline one? Unsure, but fits the aesthetic very well and I really don't like fairings for the most part.


The tune-up is going to be valve clearances, cam chain adjustment, lube and adjust cables, adjust clutch, lube pivots points, grease swingarm, oil change, carb sync and pilot mixture adjustment, drive chain lube and adjustment, nip back spark plug wire and rethread spark plug caps, new spark plugs, and balancer chain adjustment.

After he left, I took it for a test drive, and I noticed the head seemed fairly loud. Not as bad as when one of the tapped adjusters are loose. I set the cam chain tension, and it immediately went away. Required about 3 or 4 full turns until it deployed. At 18,000 miles on this bike, it appears it was never done before. Otherwise, it ran quite well. Front brakes are a bit squeaky, and the tires were replaced before. The tires were also close to being flat (like less than 10psi). I noticed this before he left and mentioned that it may be an issue, but we'll see how much it air it loses over the next week. I filled the tires up and tightened the valve stem cores just in case if they were a bit leaky. With the squeaky front brakes and the front end needs to come off anyways I'll take the brakes apart to clean it up in there and make sure the front brakes aren't completely glazed over. Usually, when I run into that problem some 120 sandpaper and it's good to go.

So, the first thing I noticed and pointed out to him is that the intake clamps are not original. It may not be an issue but could be and just wanted to note this to him. Luckily, it does not seem to be an issue.


Not as much pictures for these builds as I'm kind of repeating myself. I went to do a compression check, which is a lot harder because no electric start! ~155PSI on both sides. Pretty good. As I was pulling the plugs I noticed D7EAs.


The left side had some helicoil done to it in the past.


We already agreed about ordering a new air filter as he was unsure about it. I found two air filter stacked on each other and not oiled.


The bottom one was in decent shape so I oiled it. It's good enough for doing test rides. I also noticed the drain plugs were never serviced before. I pulled those plugs and of course a lot of nasty crap came out.


Drive chain has 4 inches of slack. It's toast. HOWEVER, he did have a brand new DID 530-100L chain from the PO that was never installed so I will be cleaning that up today and installing it. I also checked the swingarm and amazingly it pumped grease. Very lucky on his part. Kickstand was very, very tight. A lot of degreaser, working it back and forth, and finally got some nice action. Then I lubed it a bit and works great. I did the same for all the pivot points like the foot pegs and kickstart lever.

I did the valves, and the intakes were within spec, but on the tight end of it. Reset them. New valve cover gasket, etc. It needed the valve cover gasket as it was leaking quite bad and he originally was wanting a quote for head gasket replacement, but I said it's probably just the valve cover but let's see what we got going on. Another victory for the owner.

So far, so good. A few small quirks, but otherwise a nice tune-up. Fun precursor to the CM400E and was mostly kept in good shape.

 

[Maraakate]

Let's get that bike up in the air and remove the rear wheel and take care of the chain situation and also service the brakes.


As noted before, 4 inches of slack. Really bad. I also noticed the retainer clip for the master link was on backwards. Very dangerous.


NOS DID Chain. Looks to be 90s.



Just comparing how stretched that old chain is.


As always, in my pan with kerosene to clean the chain before I lube it for the first time. This one really needed it as my hands turned black just touching it. Not a bad thing, because that means the grease did its job preventing the chain from rusting on the shelf.


I'm going to let this setup for a while and watch the F1 Sprint Race in Miami. Rain preventing the start.

 

[LongDistanceRider]

Looks like the engine was replaced, wrong right case cover for a 78/79 CB400.

 

[Maraakate]

Looks like the engine was replaced, wrong right case cover for a 78/79 CB400.

I noticed that and was going to mention in an upcoming post that it's been in an accident before because the right foot peg is bent. Maybe it was dropped and scratched on that side so they replaced it? Not sure, but I'll get the serial number off the engine so you can tell me about what year it came from.

 

[ancientdad]

I noticed that and was going to mention in an upcoming post that it's been in an accident before because the right foot peg is bent. Maybe it was dropped and scratched on that side so they replaced it? Not sure, but I'll get the serial number off the engine so you can tell me about what year it came from.

I'm just curious because I know so little about these models, but isn't the Hawk II a CB400TII?

 

[Maraakate]

According to partzilla fiche listing apparently not?

 

[ancientdad]

According to partzilla fiche listing apparently not?

I don't know, but I'd be inclined to believe Honda over others and we know there are occasionally errors in these parts fiches (and seemingly less often in the Honda ID Guide)

 

[Maraakate]

Okay, edit the subject on the thread to fix it if that's the case, please.

 

[ancientdad]

Okay, edit the subject on the thread to fix it if that's the case, please.

It would seem to be, but I was waiting to see if Jim agrees since he knows these bikes far better.

 

[LongDistanceRider]

I'm just curious because I know so little about these models, but isn't the Hawk II a CB400TII?

Yes, the "Hawk II" is the CB400T2. Not sure why Honda made these distinctions when the T1 or T2 covers the bases.
Error on my part, the '79 CB400T1 does use the later case cover. '78 is a one year case cover

 

[Maraakate]

Yes, the "Hawk II" is the CB400T2. Not sure why Honda made these distinctions when the T1 or T2 covers the bases.
Error on my part, the '79 CB400T1 does use the later case cover. '78 is a one year case cover

I will say that I do like the "economy" versions of these. They're quicker from the reduced weight. Fun bikes.

 

[prkrman]

The partzilla page for the Cb400T2 is also wrong, it shows the disc brake section and non-spoked wheels in the T1 section. I’ve had that issue a few times looking for those diagrams.

 

[Maraakate]

Got the rear chain replaced, rear brakes serviced, oil change and balancer chain adjustment done yesterday.

I noticed the brake rod was bent a bit when removing the rear wheel.


Thankfully, this rod is easy to bend with your hand.


If you have trouble removing the brake cam arm use a body panel tool. (And no, the chain adjuster is not interfering. That's a goofy optical illusion.)


For this stuff I scuff the pads with 120 grit or so and remove the glaze. I also blow compressed air in the hub and on the brake assembly. WEAR A MASK (IDEALLY A RESPIRATOR). POSSIBLE ASEBSTOS HAZARD. NO JOKE.


Clean the assembly with some brake cleaner as best you can.


I take a brass wire wheel on a dremel and then some red scotch brite to clean up the cam itself.


Grease the cam.


Don't forget to clean up the pivot points on the pads themselves.


Very lightly grease the pivot points. You don't want to get grease on the brake pads.


Don't forget about that dust washer. Put a little bit of two stroke oil or some other lightweight oil on it, then grease it and reinstall.


The wear indicator is "keyed" so it will only go on one way.


Align the dots/punch marks on the cam and the arm, install the nut and bolt for the arm, and finally test the action of it to make sure it is smooth.


Clean the pads with brake cleaner multiple times until the paper towels come up clean.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

I always clean and regrease the axle before reinstalling the wheel. Usually there's a bit of pitting somewhere that makes them annoying to remove and install.





When reinstall the large brake arm to the hub be sure to clean this bolt first. They really like to get stuck and give you a hard time.


No pictures of reinstallation. Mostly self-explanatory. I've never shown how to cut a chain, so let's do it. Start by counting the number of links three times! It helps if you have the original chain! After that grind the rivet flush.


Assemble the tool.





Line it up.


Turn.


I like to back off a bit after starting to make sure things aren't going in cockeyed.


Now turn, readjust, turn again, etc. until it finally comes apart and assemble your chain.


I always check the alignment with new chains. I think the marks on the swingarms are fairly accurate, or close enough. All I do is get one side started with my fingers then I turn the other side very carefully until I feel resistance and turn each side equally. It usually comes out straight. That's all I did for this one.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

I noticed the fuel line was original and basically a piece of plastic. Replaced.


Two things on the carbs that stand out and are clearly wrong which indicates most likely aftermarket carb kits or who knows what else. RTV on the covers (?!) and different sized bolts. Those carbs came off for sure. Since this is a tune up, funds are low, we just want to get running, and that the carbs run OK I'm letting it go until we do other stuff in the winter. Very peculiar that RTV though.


The oil drain bolt had no washer. No picture, but the oil filter was missing the washer and had a random o-ring shoved in its place.


Alright, so the rules are a bit different when doing the balancer chain adjustment with cover removal on the manuals. First, remove the slack entirely at the clutch side case and the lever. Then remove the cable from the clutch side first.


Remove the kickstart lever, the pegs, and the 8mm head bolts. Just like on the automatic the bottom two bolts on the right will require an 8mm wrench to remove. You'll also want to remove/push out of the way the exhaust clamp that goes from header to "power chamber".


The cover is harder to get off because that heatshield will be in the way. You could try to remove it, but it's practically a guarantee that the screw will break and will need drilled. Besides, there ARE gasket washers (4 total) per heat shield and they're not cheap. It's kind of hard to explain but push down on that heatshield on the right side of it while pulling the cover and tilting the cover slightly at an angle pointing left and it WILL come out.


On the adjuster there are no wear marks except for the position it sat in. Indicative that this has never been done before. The chain is also very loose.


Do the usual, clean up the case and gasket surface. But don't forget to take the clutch lifter rod out and grease it.


EDIT: NO PICTURES HERE, BUT MAKE SURE THE SPRAG IS ALIGNED FOR THE SPRING. DURING REASSEMBLY TEST THE KICKSTARTER TO BE SURE IT RETURNS. IF IT DOES NOT THE SPRAG POPPED OUT OF THE SPRING. VERY EASY FOR IT TO HAPPEN.

After you reinstall the case, you install the clutch cable from the clutch cover first. Don't lose the little rubber heatshield on the cylinder for the cable.


Make sure the cable is completely loose on the clutch cover side via the adjuster.


Don't forget to align everything on the handlebar side in order to fit the cable in the perch.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

It's a tight fit, but it will go in.


Now, I always give myself a few threads on at the handlebar lever and then you take up all the slack at the clutch cover side. This gives you a bit of room to fine tune in case it's a bit too tight.


No pictures but be sure to use a new crush washer for the oil drain bolt. 2.6 quarts for these. Start it up, have some fun!

 

[ancientdad]

Nice detailed work there, covers lots of little things that others should be aware of.

 

[Maraakate]

Nice detailed work there, covers lots of little things that others should be aware of.

Thanks. Very little step-by-steps with the manual versions and now I have an opportunity to do so.

 

[Maraakate]

I was in the middle of doing the carb sync and the 8mm nut was just not coming off. Someone made a poor attempt in the past. A good way to get at it without wobble sockets, etc. is to remove the CV piston cover on the right carb. Well, since this had RTV on it that means might as well take them off and check them both and see what's going on.


All this stuff cleaned up pretty well with some carb cleaner on a rag. One thing that was very interesting is a washer stacked under the jet needle. I did the clear tube test just to verify if the float heights were even the same or close to the same. Right side was leaner.

I like this tool for dropping the bowls. Makes it easy to do so. Please remember to get on the screws perpendicular or you can round them off and be certain to not he-man them back on.


The way I check these on the bike is lay down a rag on the engine and turn the petcock on just enough to get a trickle and push up slowly until you get a drip or two then a tiny bit more and stop. There's your float height. Make sure the bike is upright for this.


I want to verify if these are real float valves. Use a small punch/drift to remove the pin.


Close up of the float valve. Looks pretty good.


I do enough of these that I have a hoard of float valves still sealed.


Indeed, it is a real one!


Let's check the other side.

Float height is more like 16mm on this side. Needs adjusted.


Wear looks OK.


Also genuine.


I put it all back together after readjusting the float height on the right side. Things seem OK without those extra washers. Not sure what the deal was there. Sync was in spec when I started: 4cmHg. Got it to 1cmHg.

 

[ancientdad]

Out of control RTV use strikes again, it had to have affected that slide movement.

 

[Maraakate]

Probably. Guess someone sprayed carb cleaner at it and thought they found a leak so they RTVd the cover? No idea. Unsure why they stacked two air filters either. There is a slight mid range hesitation if you whack from idle, but not offensive. If cruising normally its unnoticeable. A proper carb clean would fix it and bumping up to 78 size primary main jet.

 

[ancientdad]

Probably. Guess someone sprayed carb cleaner at it and thought they found a leak so they RTVd the cover? No idea. Unsure why they stacked two air filters either. There is a slight mid range hesitation if you whack from idle, but not offensive. If cruising normally its unnoticeable. A proper carb clean would fix it and bumping up to 78 size primary main jet.

They may have simply not been very familiar with these carbs and tried to do a rebuild but used halfassed methods, thinking the carb tops needed to be sealed. Is the other one the same way?

 

[Maraakate]

Both tops were sealed and I serviced both. Both had washers and RTV.

Funny the jets were unchanged so I don't know what they were doing. Maybe trying to chase down air leaks when it ended up being band clamps. They're overtightened at the end of their range and distorted, but they are sealing.

 

[LongDistanceRider]

The washers raise the needle, half-assed fix for the double air filters

 

[Maraakate]

Yes, I know about raising the needles. Still confused by the entire thing. Guess people don't know that these filters get oiled lol.

 

[Maraakate]

I noticed that noise in the head returned from when I first got it. Thought to myself, "hmmm... let's deploy the cam chain tensioner again just to be sure." Made no difference, and I noticed that when I did loosen practically all the way I didn't even feel the vibration you would normally feel travel through the wrench. Strange. Then I think, "could one of the tappet adjusters be loose? could the valve clearances have changed wildly from a piece of carbon that worked its way loose?". Took the valve cover off and nope, everything is still good.

However, I do find this thing sitting on top of the slipper bouncing around in there against the cam chain.


I have no idea where it came from and it's not from me. I know better than that. It almost feels like the rubber covers you have over the XD05F spark plug caps. I don't think it's from the slipper. I did try setting the engine at TDC for Cylinder 1 and deploying the tensioner (engine off, of course) and even then, I can pull up on the cam chain at the top of the sprocket maybe about 1/8" or a little more. I don't think that is normal when it is tensioner correctly. What do you say @LongDistanceRider ? I think it's fair to say the cam chain is stretched, but no idea where that piece came from. And admittedly I'm not looking down cam chain tunnels when doing valve adjustments, but maybe I should start.

I'm also going to assume that a complete lack of maintenance from the previous owner has caused the cam chain to be loose this entire time. No idea how long the current owner has been driving it this way.

When I got it all back together, I did tighten the exhaust studs as I've had this kind of issue before. That is not the issue and it is most definitely the cam chain. I did not pull the rocker holders, but the lobes on the cam seem fine.

 

[Maraakate]

With cover off and engine off set to TDC and moved about 15 degrees and tried to deploy tensioner. Not much action. Pushed down on it a bit with a long, thin flathead and was able to get tension back and buttoned it up. Noise is gone. Guess tensioner is sticky, but still unsure about what the deal is with that random rubber piece. I'll put more miles on it before it goes back and make sure the cam chain and/or slipper isn't wearing at some alarming rate.

 

[Maraakate]

Things seem OK now. Will keep an eye on it. In the meantime, the new air filter showed up and you can tell the old one has shrunk down significantly and was in dire need of replacement. Maybe thats why there were two stacked at one point? Neither were oiled anyways.

Oiled the new one and going to let it set up for a couple of hours and wring it out again then install.

 

[Maraakate]

Waiting on the fork seals. Meanwhile, I have put about ~130 miles on it so far. Cam chain tension has held up, so to anyone out there wondering what's up with that noise in the head and you know you tried deploying the tensioner and set the valves... really check that tensioner that it's deploying completely. Could have been a big uh-oh for the owner.

Had it out in some light rain on Tuesday. No issues.

I had it out yesterday doing errands including sitting in traffic. Owner stated it tended to give issues when things got hot. No issues here.

The only issue I had was when I took the battery out to check fluid. After putting it back in I had no electronics and had to fiddle around with that. Later, the main fuse blew but I think it was because it was an original one and it was barely hanging by a thread on the solder joints. You can usually tell if the old fuses are garbage by removing them and seeing if you can twist the ends. If you can, they will separate and they will increase in resistance and they will pop at the worst time. Put a new fuse in and have had no further issues. If it happens again then I suspect some resistance in the red and red w/ white tracer. Have not checked that but probably will today since it's raining all day today.

 

[81cm400e]

Waiting on the fork seals. Meanwhile, I have put about ~130 miles on it so far. Cam chain tension has held up, so to anyone out there wondering what's up with that noise in the head and you know you tried deploying the tensioner and set the valves... really check that tensioner that it's deploying completely. Could have been a big uh-oh for the owner.

Had it out in some light rain on Tuesday. No issues.

I had it out yesterday doing errands including sitting in traffic. Owner stated it tended to give issues when things got hot. No issues here.

The only issue I had was when I took the battery out to check fluid. After putting it back in I had no electronics and had to fiddle around with that. Later, the main fuse blew but I think it was because it was an original one and it was barely hanging by a thread on the solder joints. You can usually tell if the old fuses are garbage by removing them and seeing if you can twist the ends. If you can, they will separate and they will increase in resistance and they will pop at the worst time. Put a new fuse in and have had no further issues. If it happens again then I suspect some resistance in the red and red w/ white tracer. Have not checked that but probably will today since it's raining all day today.

What does the noise sound like when it needs to be adjusted? Why did you do it engine off but the fsm *for my cm400e* says to have the bike idling?

 

[Maraakate]

Oh, the tensioner. It was stuck and clearly not deploying so the sound was very loud. Sounds like a very loud clatter coming from the head. I might have a short video of it I can post.

When this happens, you need to set the tensioner with the bike off. To do this you take the valve cover off and turn the engine until it's TDC (it's a parallel twin so it doesn't matter which cylinder is at TDC). You don't even have to take the stator cover off. Just look at the two lines on the camshaft sprocket and make sure they are parallel with the cylinder head. Then you loosen the cam chain tensioner and check the chain slack on the cam chain by pulling up. If you can pull it much at all then it's stuck. Push down on the rubber blade from the top of the cover with a long flathead or something similar. Enough to get some pressure on the chain and tighten the adjuster. Check chain slack again on the sprocket.

 

[Maraakate]

Here is the video of the excessive cam chain noise. I was planning on making a video of how to do the carb sync on these bikes. Which I will do next 400 that comes my way.

But it's fairly obvious. You can hear that "jangling" and banging noise. Especially at ~14 seconds.

Beware though, it can be a few other things. When it is not cam chain tension I tend to see loose tappet adjusters. They may even be floating around in the head. If it's not that then it could be balancer chain, but I have never personally seen or heard this. I have seen it be exhaust gaskets. When that personally happened to me, I tightened the nuts on the studs a turn or so and that helped seal it and it stopped. Guess the gaskets "settled" after many years.

 

[Maraakate]

Fork seals have arrived and will pick them up tomorrow.

 

[Maraakate]

More pictures to come, but the reason the fork seals were leaking is because they used aftermarket seals. Really shocked. Guess it was worth it trying to save a whole $10. /s

 

[Maraakate]

Final ride video

 

[Maraakate]

Here is the write-up on the front forks and brakes. Some things omitted as it's been covered before.

Remove the top fork bolt and (not pictured) loosen that allen nut thing (Honda calls is a special bolt).

Completely loosen the front brake cable from the handlebar lever

Loosen the front brake cable all the way at the hub

It's hard to see in this picture, but there is a cotter pin that prevents the brake cable knarp from coming out. You need to remove this.

Now you can disconnect the front brake cable from the hub

Bend the safety tabs back for the hub. Notice this is the wrong bolt, I fixed that.

Push the bracket out of the way if you can. Sometimes there's enough you can push on it to force the other bolt to move.

Use a t-handle to remove the speedo screw. Slide the speedo cable and brake cable out of the holder on the fender.


Remove the 10mm nuts for the fender. You'll need a wrench for this. There is a bracket on the left side of the fender. Here is the orientation.


Loosen the 10mm nuts on the brake cam arms to make disassembly on the bench easier

(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Break free, but do not remove, the axle nuts

This particular axle was extremely tight, even with a cheater bar. In this case, you use a wrench on the other side of the axle (I believe it was a 17mm but I don't recall offhand) to keep the axle in place while you break the castle nut free.

Break the 12mm bolts free on the triple tree clamp, but hand tighten them afterwards. This is to make things easier when we have it on the jack. You don't want the whole front end sliding out from under you.

Jack the bike up

Loosen the two 14mm axle holder nuts and remove the castle nut then drive out the axle. Driving that axle out can be a real chore sometimes. If it is then you can use a drift or a brass rod, etc. Use common sense. Don't mushroom the end of the axle bolt.

Removed

No pictures but now is a great time to blow all the dust out of the wheel hub and sand the glaze off the pads and the inside of the hub. USE A RESPIRATOR. VERY LIKELY OLD ASBESTOS PADS AND DUST!

Now you can fully loosen the 12mm bolt on the triple tree and pull the fork out.

Remove the dust cap. If it's difficult then use a heat gun to soften the rubber.

Remove the clip

Use a heat gun for a minute or two over the allen bolt at the bottom of the tube. People love to put thread locker on these and/or overtighten them.

Get the tube in a vice wrapped in some cloths so you don't mar the tube

(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

You'll need a breaker bar to remove this. Ignore the book showing someone with a T-Handle. No way.

Don't forget to remove the copper washer

The tube assembly should slide right out. The bottom piston piece where the bolt goes through likes to stay stuck in the fork tube so make sure you don't lose it.

Remember I had you break that goofy allen bolt thing free? Now we can disassemble the forks much easier without putting in a vice and being mad that we didn't do this on the bike.

There's a special washer under that bolt. I use a magnet to grab it.

Less than 80cc drained

I take a heat gun and really heat these seals up

Marks on the tube. Someone has been here before.

I use a prybar wrapped in a shop rag/detail cloth, you can also use a seal puller. This is all pointless because I found out that yet again it would not come out no matter what. The only way I was able to remove this was by cleaning the tube out completely with degreaser/parts cleaner and then drying it out and finally putting in the oven at 275F for 30 minutes.

I wondered why it was so difficult to remove and why the front end was leaking, especially when the copper washer was clearly new. Oh wait, I know why. Crappy aftermarket seals. Can't believe it. I hope it was really worth it for the PO to save literally $10 for an all balls kit.


(Continued in next post...)

 

[Maraakate]

Same as always. Grease the seal with some wheel bearing grease and get it flush with the tube to get it started.

Not pictured, but slide your tube back in. Again, don't forget that aluminium piece that goes on the piston slider. Put a new copper washer on the bolt.

Get it all finger tight with the bolt, spring, "special bolt", etc. and now you can use the seal installation tool to get that seal home.

Put the clip back on

Put the dust cover back on. I like to rub a little bit of grease on the inner lips of the dust seal to make it snap on nice and easy.

Put everything in the vice again and tighten up that allen bolt. Don't get crazy here.

If you removed the drum brake bracket on the left side get it installed now. Reinstall the tubes.

(Continued in next post...)

 

[ancientdad]

Does the factory seal have tension spring on both sides of the seal? Because if not, then the spring side always goes down.

 

[Maraakate]

As mentioned earlier, with these old brakes WEAR A RESPIRATOR - ASEBSTOS WARNING!

These pads are glazed over pretty bad. Explains the excessive squeal. Typical with drum brakes that weren't getting a lot of action.

Sand them with ~120 grit and then follow up with brake parts cleaner until the towel comes up clean

Start with the left cam by pushing the spring off the cam arm and then remove the 10mm bolt/nut combo from both arms and push up. You may need a body panel tool or a flathead screwdriver.

For the record, I highly recommend you do NOT play around with the tiny adjustment arm unless you suspect someone has messed with it before.

Same stuff as before, push the cams out, clean them, grease them, oil the felts, etc. Do keep in mind there is an orientation to these.

No more pictures really, just assemble everything like before. Just don't forget the safety tabs and the cotter pins. Especially that cotter pin for the brake cable.

And that's it!

 

[Maraakate]

Does the factory seal have tension spring on both sides of the seal? Because if not, then the spring side always goes down.

It's on both sides. When this happens, I always install the seal with markings facing UP.

 

[ancientdad]

It's on both sides. When this happens, I always install the seal with markings facing UP.

Newer seals, which is why I asked.

 

[Maraakate]

Newer seals, which is why I asked.

Worth asking in case someone else follows this thread and does not know.

 

[ancientdad]

Worth asking in case someone else follows this thread and does not know.

Yes, and the very reason I did. When you only get to see one side of the new seal and you may not be aware of how the later version seals were made, it could easily confuse those who weren't aware.

 

[Syco13x]

Not trying to resurrect an old thread, but had to say… Wow! This is a gold mine of information for a new CB400T owner like me. I have the Type 2 Hawk, but my understanding is that this should apply mostly the same. Regardless, the amount of knowledge shared here is invaluable. I will certainly follow this as a guide as I go through the motions on my bike.

Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to post all this as you worked on that bike. It’s nice having modern full color pictures too, instead of just the dark b&w pics in the service manual.

 

[t.ultracruiser]

Not trying to resurrect an old thread, but had to say… Wow! This is a gold mine of information for a new CB400T owner like me. I have the Type 2 Hawk, but my understanding is that this should apply mostly the same. Regardless, the amount of knowledge shared here is invaluable. I will certainly follow this as a guide as I go through the motions on my bike.

Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to post all this as you worked on that bike. It’s nice having modern full color pictures too, instead of just the dark b&w pics in the service manual.

ditto, helped me out also