Maintenance and modifications, now 7 years on

Those 4AH batteries have enough kick to run about 3 starter cycles (long enough to crank to figure out you have the coils backwards, times 3) - or at least they do on the CX and the GL, pretty sure the starter on the DOHC is about the same draw. With how easily yours starts, it shouldn't be an issue at all to bring push button start back.
Yep, as easily as mine starts the existing 4 amp lithium would probably do it too, but I have this one in case.
 
And for those who might have wondered (since it's been a while), the revised springs on the Ikon shocks are great. Makes me wish I hadn't let Roger talk me into standard spring rate to begin with (he was afraid of bottoming), could have saved myself about $30 shipping if I'd stuck to my guns. Either way, bike rides as nice now as it ever has, took it for about a 7 mile loop near me in today's beautiful weather here of mid-70s F.
 
Have you gotten the tank back from the chrome shop?
Oh yeah, long ago. Yet another sad story of modern package handling. I wasn't going to bother telling it until I have the proper time to "fix" what happened and swap the tank. I will say that the quality of the chrome is not the issue, but pretty much anything anyone would send them that isn't a gas tank would probably be a much simpler task that they could actually handle without a hurried, stupid approach.
 
I'm sorry the tank seems to have gone on another bad trip, so to speak. Sounds like you have a plan for fixing it and I hope that works out.
I should have worded it a little differently, I was about to log out to watch TV with my wife and didn't properly explain. It wasn't any fault of the shipper this time, the fault was the handling of the tank after final rinse and before packing it to ship. As in, they did nothing following the final rinse (by the owner's own admission when I spoke to him on the phone, as he personally packed my tank because they were hurrying to get as many packages out that afternoon as possible) except hastily dump the rinse water out of the tank before boxing it up. And like most tanks with no crossover tube, there was still an ounce or so of water in the tank so it rusted nicely on the trip home. I opened the box to find wet, rusty packing around my brand new and freshly chromed tank. His excuse was he didn't think about the fact that it was a gas tank since they don't do them very often and they were in a hurry. He offered to take care of it if I sent it back to him, but after discussions with him prior to sending the tank about it being an actual gas tank, and that it would need to be rinsed and dried out after all the chemicals used and the potential effect that could have if not handled properly, I was so angry, disgusted and discouraged with the result that I did not want to trust them again. So it's sitting waiting for me to do the rust cleanup right before I install it. But again, their chrome work is beautiful. Too bad they just don't listen, pretty much like every other service in America these days it seems.
 
I see. And I understand how that you need about fixing it right before you install.

What's your approach going to be? If the rust were mostly at the bottom of the tank, I'd be content to derust and then use oil and gas to keep it clean afterwards. But if the rust gets to the upper surfaces, I haven't figured out how to prevent flash rust from eventually returning and would be inclined to line it.
 
I see. And I understand how that you need about fixing it right before you install.

What's your approach going to be? If the rust were mostly at the bottom of the tank, I'd be content to derust and then use oil and gas to keep it clean afterwards. But if the rust gets to the upper surfaces, I haven't figured out how to prevent flash rust from eventually returning and would be inclined to line it.
I bought some phosphoric acid to clean it up, but obviously you can't just knock it out in a spare hour or two if you want the best results. I've never had to de-rust a gas tank before so I plan to wait until I have appropriate time to do it right, and get it on the bike and full of gas immediately afterward.

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Of course, you wouldn't know anything bad happened if you just see the outside.

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And the difference in luster is obvious.

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The outside of the tank looks great and I will not add any fuel to the fire with comments about the inside. One question will phosphoric acid damage the chrome?
 
I don't think so, especially with a limited exposure. Phosphoric acid is used in many cola products and scrubbing with tin foil plus cola is an oft recommended chrome cleaning method.
Yeah, I did a lot of reading about it before buying a jug of it. I'll still be careful, and I might test it first on something disposable to be sure. It's just really frustrating to have fully explained the situation to the owner prior to shipping it to them, not to mention the $346 for the chrome work, only to have the finishing effort be so casually pathetic.
 
Just saw this service, advertised in this months Classic Motorcycle Mechanics magazine. No mention of price though, bet it's expensive. Internally nickel plating steel fuel tanks, as a liner.

 
Just saw this service, advertised in this months Classic Motorcycle Mechanics magazine. No mention of price though, bet it's expensive. Internally nickel plating steel fuel tanks, as a liner.

It's a genius idea. But I'm sure you're right, the cost plus the additional cost and risk of shipping it overseas.... ugh.

My current tank is a bit rusty inside from my own carelessness with ethanol fuel early in the build's life but it hasn't caused any trouble at all, just some rusty streaks in the bottom of the tank. Hopefully I'll have decent luck with minimal flash rust on the new tank to take advantage of the quality exterior finish.
 
If you have 2nd thoughts on the acid, I'd look at the Rust911 option. If similar to Evaporust, then it is kind to chrome.
 
If you have 2nd thoughts on the acid, I'd look at the Rust911 option. If similar to Evaporust, then it is kind to chrome.
Well, the reasons I chose this product is because more than a few forums said it doesn't hurt chrome. I actually have over half a gallon of Evaporust, but I don't want to be fighting flash rust because this tank has no crossover tubes and a metal "neck" on the inside of the opening for the cap (assumedly to control splashes toward the cap) so it makes quickly dumping out a chemical impossible. While I could rinse the Evaporust out easily with water afterward, getting the last few ounces of water out would be more difficult and I'm concerned about flash rust happening in a hurry. The phosphoric acid is said to prep the metal in a way that inhibits flash rust, so hopefully it works better.
 
I've used phosphoric acid, works well. I just bought generic product off Amazon. Cleaned out my SL175 tank with it, although I did then apply a liner afterwards, 'Slosh', which is still holding up well. Much cheaper than the POR15 kits that I've used in the past.

Also prepared rusty parts in it. Before

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After
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I've never tried it but some say to remove water as best you can then pour in a bottle of straight alcohol. It absorbs the water then evaporates quickly. Then line it, fog it, oil it, some like to coat with kerosene.
 
I've never tried it but some say to remove water as best you can then pour in a bottle of straight alcohol. It absorbs the water then evaporates quickly. Then line it, fog it, oil it, some like to coat with kerosene.
Thanks, that's a good thought, and one that I honestly wondered would be helpful, If things get stubborn I'll try it. Not going to get into it until I can devote the necessary time to see it through properly.
 
Yes, that's what I've done. We have stuff over here called 'methylated spirits' or denatured alcohol, dyed purple ( to stop folks drinking it, 5% methanol added to the ethanol ). Sold in the paints section of DIY stores.

After rinsing the tank with water, poured this stuff in to remove the residual water. Personally not tried it, but diesel fuel is supposed to be good for sloshing around to protect a derusted tank.
 
Yes, that's what I've done. We have stuff over here called 'methylated spirits' or denatured alcohol, dyed purple ( to stop folks drinking it, 5% methanol added to the ethanol ). Sold in the paints section of DIY stores.

After rinsing the tank with water, poured this stuff in to remove the residual water. Personally not tried it, but diesel fuel is supposed to be good for sloshing around to protect a derusted tank.
Thanks Richard, looks like I'll be buying some for the effort then.
 
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